Date   

Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

Vintage Test
 

Hi again Colin,

The two different part numbers refer to either the right-hand (timebase) slot or the two left-hand (vertical amps) slots, with the LH connectors having four of the connections shortened to allow connection to a smal PCB which connects the two LH slots together. I haven't found out what this does, but it would seem that the RH slot connector would be better for you, as all of the connections are present on it. Now, as there is only one of this type of connector per 7603, i only have two of these connectors. As I've already promised one to Jim, that leaves me with one I can send to you. Is that OK?

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: TDS744

 

I am totally stumped with this scope now! Many thanks to Håkan for the schematics, but I can’t figure out why neither of the two CRT drivers work - both take so much current (>1.5A) that the LV PSU 25V rail is pulled down so hard that the PSU goes into protection. I’ve checked all of the semiconductors and electrolytics, and am baffled. The scope is fine on an external VGA monitor. Do any of you have any suggestions please?
Double-check the TO-39 transistors on the neck board. There's one that usually shorts out, look for discoloration of the can. Later revisions added a heat sink to the device.


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

Jim Ford
 

Sounds good.
Thanks for the help.
Jim


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: "Vintage Test via Groups.Io" <mel.purcell=icloud.com@groups.io> Date: 8/27/18 9:57 AM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7000 series white plug-in connector
Hi Jim,

I have a couple of plugin interface cards, but the cheapest thing would probably be to desolder a couple of connectors and pop them in a padded bag to you. Give me a day or two and I’ll get them removed and a carriage cost for you.

Cheers,
Mel
--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: Obligatory member email

 

Hi Rick,

Posting is not a requirement for membership but until you post a message your status is "moderated" meaning yours and everyone's first post has to be reviewed for appropriate content. As a general rule once I had a chance to check that first message I remove the moderated status.

This "gatekeeping" function helps to keep TekScopes safe from inappropriate members and content.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Murphy
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2018 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Obligatory member email

I didn't realize this was a requirement here, so posting to show my
presence.
I joined because I heard about this list on classiccmp and I own a Tek 475
rescued a couple of years ago from a Hamfest for $40. Was blowing fuses,
prior owner tried a ham-handled (sorry, bad pun) repair and gave up on it.
A replacement bridge rectifier, some wires to repair the damage, and it
works great. Factory calibrated in 1994 :) I used one of these for years
in Field Service for Digital Equipment back in the 70s and just had to
have it.

What I'm looking for is a set of probes for this unit. I have a pair of
probes, but would love to get a set of Tek probes without being fleeced.
:)

Oh, and my Wife's father used to work at the Tektronics factory in
Guernsey many years ago so was happy to see that brought up recently.
-Rick



--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: Looking for ...

 

My email is @W9RP


My address
Chris Nicholson
2215 Donica Church rd
Bedford Indiana
47421

On Aug 27, 2018, at 12:51 PM, Vintage Test via Groups.Io <mel.purcell=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Chris,

I do have a couple of HT modules, both working. I can send you a pic by PM if you’d like? Where are you and i’ll cost carriage.

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .



Re: TDS744

Vintage Test
 

Hi All,

I am totally stumped with this scope now! Many thanks to Håkan for the schematics, but I can’t figure out why neither of the two CRT drivers work - both take so much current (>1.5A) that the LV PSU 25V rail is pulled down so hard that the PSU goes into protection. I’ve checked all of the semiconductors and electrolytics, and am baffled. The scope is fine on an external VGA monitor. Do any of you have any suggestions please?

Cheers, Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: Obligatory member email

Rick Murphy
 

I didn't realize this was a requirement here, so posting to show my presence.
I joined because I heard about this list on classiccmp and I own a Tek 475 rescued a couple of years ago from a Hamfest for $40. Was blowing fuses, prior owner tried a ham-handled (sorry, bad pun) repair and gave up on it. A replacement bridge rectifier, some wires to repair the damage, and it works great. Factory calibrated in 1994 :) I used one of these for years in Field Service for Digital Equipment back in the 70s and just had to have it.

What I'm looking for is a set of probes for this unit. I have a pair of probes, but would love to get a set of Tek probes without being fleeced. :)

Oh, and my Wife's father used to work at the Tektronics factory in Guernsey many years ago so was happy to see that brought up recently.
-Rick


Re: TDS520 CPU board (672-1475-03)?

Kaj Wiik
 

Sorry for double posting...

Kaj


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

Vintage Test
 

Hi Colin,

Yes, I can send you a connector too, once i’ve removed them. I’ll need to have a look at my extender, but think that, although the connector is the same, the actual connecting pins might be longer on the extender than the interface panel. Still, a bit of work with some link wire and a soldering iron should sort that! Not sure why your message to me should have bounced - does anyone else have any ideas on that?

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

Vintage Test
 

Hi Jim,

I have a couple of plugin interface cards, but the cheapest thing would probably be to desolder a couple of connectors and pop them in a padded bag to you. Give me a day or two and I’ll get them removed and a carriage cost for you.

Cheers,
Mel
--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: Looking for ...

Vintage Test
 

Hi Chris,

I do have a couple of HT modules, both working. I can send you a pic by PM if you’d like? Where are you and i’ll cost carriage.

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

Colin Herbert
 

Hi John,
I don't have a 7603 to photograph, but I have looked up the part-numbers for both the edge-connectors on the 7603 (as I said, there are two types) and the rigid extender and there seem to be three part-numbers which only differ in the last two numbers, so I suppose they are compatible to a great extent.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of John Griessen
Sent: 27 August 2018 16:01
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7000 series white plug-in connector

On 08/27/2018 09:38 AM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
I was wondering if the 7603 backplane connectors are similar to, or even identical to, the edge connectors of the rigid extender?
Yes, that will work if they have the same pcb mounting shapes, distances as the rigid extender. Photos might help.


Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error

Chuck Harris
 

I'm pretty sure the group owner already disallowed
attachments, as the setting in my account had that
set to 0... where as the HP-Agilent-Keysite-equipment
owner set it to unlimited....

Looking at the groups.io notes, it appears that if
the group is set for 0, attachments can appear as links
to a storage area in the groups.io database, but that
remains to be seen.

-Chuck Harris

David C. Partridge wrote:

The group owner can disable post editing, and I'd like to request that this be done as I too hate getting multiple edits of the same post.

I'd also like to suggest disallowing attachments (I've set my preferences to prevent delivery).

Dave


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

John Griessen
 

On 08/27/2018 09:38 AM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
I was wondering if the 7603 backplane connectors are similar to, or even identical to, the edge connectors of the rigid extender?
Yes, that will work if they have the same pcb mounting shapes, distances as the rigid extender. Photos might help.


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

Colin Herbert
 

Hi Mel,
I tried sending an email to your personal account, but it bounced... Here is what I wrote:

"Hi Mel,
You might have seen my post on Tekscopes about refurbishing/repairing a 7000-series rigid extender that I sent a short while ago. I was wondering if the 7603 backplane connectors are similar to, or even identical to, the edge connectors of the rigid extender? If there is a possibility of this and since you live in Scotland, it would be pretty painless to post one to me. There look to be two types of edge-connectors in the 7603: 204-0365-00 and 201-0365-02. Is there much difference between them? The corresponding edge-connector for the rigid extender (Tek 067-0589-00) has the P/N 204-0365-01, so there might well be compatibility here.
If there is some possibility to repair my rigid extender and you would be prepared to send one of these edge-connectors to me, what would you want me to pay for it (including postage)? I live in London SW19 8ER.
TIA, Colin."

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Vintage Test via Groups.Io
Sent: 26 August 2018 10:11
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7000 series white plug-in connector

Hi Jim,

I scrapped a couple of 7603s a while ago and still have the rear interface panels (with connectors), which you’re welcome to. I’m in Scotland, where are you?

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Series 7k extender

Colin Herbert
 

I am fortunate to have two Tek flexible extenders and an (as yet unfinished) John Griessen flexible extender, as well as a rigid extender for the 7k series. I have a bit of a problem with the rigid extender in that some of the connectors for the DUT are missing. These are A1 (Sweep Gate), B1 (Dly Mode Ctl In), A2 (Pwr Common) and B2 (Dly Mode C Out). Is anyone familiar with what plug-ins might use these connectors? Apart from the springy metal connectors being absent, the white plastic dividing section has broken off and been lost. So my next query is could this be repaired sensibly with four of the metal connectors, or would I have to use a complete edge-connector, assuming one could be sourced? Indeed, are there so few plug-ins that use these four connections (and remembering that I have two flexible extenders), does it matter that these four connections are absent?
TIA, Colin.


Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error

Siggi
 

On Sat, 25 Aug 2018 at 18:51 <Sscandizzo@...> wrote:

Gotcha, stereo vision has it's advantages. I was starring right at the
but couldn't see the pins!

They are both spot on.
TP2420 1.362
TP2421 -1.250
Excellent - then hopefully you just need to fix the power supply issues.


Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error

 

The group owner can disable post editing, and I'd like to request that this be done as I too hate getting multiple edits of the same post.

I'd also like to suggest disallowing attachments (I've set my preferences to prevent delivery).

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: 26 August 2018 14:57
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek 2467b test 05 error

Just in case anyone wonders: Every time those of you that use
the groups.io website to post, post, and then see a mistake and
edit your post, and submit that change, and see a mistake and
edit your post, and submit that change, and see an error and
edit your post, and submit that change, and seen another error
and edit your post, and submit that change...

We who get this group by email, which is virtually all of us,
get another nearly identical copy of your post, with the words
[Edited Message Follows] affixed to the top.

Food for thought.

-Chuck Harris

Sscandizzo@... wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Guys,

Update time. Finally got in (stripped torx heads are no fun - drilled it out.)

I went to J119 and checked the voltages. Two points failed:
J119-5 (-4.965 to -5.035) measured -4.53
J119-11 (-7.88 to -8.12) measured -6.30

To answer Siggi's question, I'm comfortable around old computers (6504's and 8086/88's) and replacing both chips and discrete components.

I don't think I am properly measuring total p-p ripple; my values seem significantly less than (a factor of 10) the tolerances. AND I have no clue how to measure the p-p at 2x line frequency. I suspect it's obvious, but I'm at a total loss.

All the boards appear to be from 1987 and populated with late '88 chips & hybrids. Not a single smd to be found (correction, a small daughter card about 0.5" x 2" near the top right of the main board).

-Stefan




Re: Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

Chuck Harris
 

If you need to spec out a shaft seal, these are the guys
you want to see:

<https://www.alleghenyyork.com/seal-components>

-Chuck Harris

Jeff Urban wrote:

A scope is a measuring instrument. So are calipers, no actually a transfer method, you then measure. You should be able to use some simple machinist tools to figure out the needed dimensions.

Take it apart, get the shaft diameter, and note if there is much scoring or a groove in it. Note for later.

Now go to where the seal was, take it out of course. Don't bother measuring it, it is defective remember ? Take the inside calipers and get the OD of the seal you need. Then the thickness, that might be a bit harder but is doable. A simple measurement with a scale (a very accurate ruler in their lingo) will probably be close enough. The ID and OD are what is more critical.

And about that, if you go to as place that really knows what they're doing, you need a tighter fit with a higher durometer material for the seal. If it is nice and shiny you can use a lower durometer seal and it is liable to last longer. However this is only true if the shaft is really clean, a lower durometer seal will not wear much more quickly all things being equal. It also makes a better seal unless you are dealing with a high pressure differential.

If the shaft is not in good shape use a tougher seal. The higher durometer material will get scored and then fit the scores in the shaft. A low durometer seal might get torn in the initial seating process and become unusable. A tough material will just conform and seal after a bit of grinding by the shaft.

Yes, I do have a little bit of background in those fields.

I wonder if WW Grainger sells seals by size and type. And, they might not give the actual hardness of the material, you might have to look it up. But it is cheaper than chucking the whole thing and buying a new one.




Re: Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

 

Perhaps this has already been mentioned, and if so then please ignore, but another source for o-rings in small or large quantities, metric or inch-sized, is McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). From the opening website page, click on "Sealing", and then "O-rings". As far as I know, McMaster-Carr has no minimum order, and their shipping/handling costs are reasonable. I don't know if they do international orders (they are a US company), but I've had great success ordering various widgets, doohickeys, and tools over the years from them. Fast shipping too. I have no commercial or financial affiliation.

Mike Dinolfo

On 08/27/2018 02:16 AM, Jeff Urban wrote:
A scope is a measuring instrument. So are calipers, no actually a transfer method, you then measure. You should be able to use some simple machinist tools to figure out the needed dimensions.
Take it apart, get the shaft diameter, and note if there is much scoring or a groove in it. Note for later.
Now go to where the seal was, take it out of course. Don't bother measuring it, it is defective remember ? Take the inside calipers and get the OD of the seal you need. Then the thickness, that might be a bit harder but is doable. A simple measurement with a scale (a very accurate ruler in their lingo) will probably be close enough. The ID and OD are what is more critical.
And about that, if you go to as place that really knows what they're doing, you need a tighter fit with a higher durometer material for the seal. If it is nice and shiny you can use a lower durometer seal and it is liable to last longer. However this is only true if the shaft is really clean, a lower durometer seal will not wear much more quickly all things being equal. It also makes a better seal unless you are dealing with a high pressure differential.
If the shaft is not in good shape use a tougher seal. The higher durometer material will get scored and then fit the scores in the shaft. A low durometer seal might get torn in the initial seating process and become unusable. A tough material will just conform and seal after a bit of grinding by the shaft.
Yes, I do have a little bit of background in those fields.
I wonder if WW Grainger sells seals by size and type. And, they might not give the actual hardness of the material, you might have to look it up. But it is cheaper than chucking the whole thing and buying a new one.