The Tube in my 576 displayed a similar behavior. Though no read out on the 576. It was confirmed by others here as a high hour / weak tube.

Was purfectly working scope until the delayed sweep switch broke internally. The friction part just broke off. There is a post somewhere how to fix it. No time to do it and got a new one

Hi! I've added a Gotek Floppy Emulator to my 420A a while ago. A short description of the process can be found on Tekwiki: http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/TDS420 The exact model number of the

Hello Dennis, Thank you for replying but ... I cannot find an attachment :-) Perhaps the "system" stripped it? What was the format of the file? Cheers, Rick

On-topic:  My own experience with 720K 3.5 inch disks is entirely with a Toshiba T1000 laptop computer (running DOS 2.x) that I think I purchased around 1988.  The T1000 had/has a single 720K 3.5

Really both the Readout and the Display intensities are weak. With the Display, that is, the sweeping trace, it is quite readable in normal light but maxes out at merely "readable"; as for the

Hi Rick, Attached is my list. Dennis Tillman W7pF

I have been more or less following this thread, because I am a big fan of these 24xx scopes, but I am a bit puzzled by the title of the thread: Is it just the readout that is weak, or are the traces

I would consider increasing the heater voltage as a test, and only as a test.  It does risk destroying the tube completely but it usually does increase electron output and can brighten a CRT.  So if

David, This may not be that illuminating, but my memory from the time these disks were in daily use was that there were drive differences as well as disk differences and that it was not at all

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GOTEK-26-Pins-1-44Mb-Floppy-To-USB-Disk-Emulators-For-Barudan-Embroidery-Machine/254448239852?hash=item3b3e4c04ec:g:knMAAOSwG5td7hXh ???? I wonder if this will work with

I have to admit it is tempting to try bumping up the heater voltage and seeing if the tube will eek out a bit more brightness. Some part of me though can't bring myself to making such mods to a Tek

I dare to say perfect. It seems it's industry standard.

Ke-Fong How was the fit of the original Tek shaft to the actuator on the new button? EJP

Hi Dennis, I should have mentioned that these switches are the best solution available so far that is easily and cheaply available. Indeed, they would have been perfect drop-ins if they were to be

Hello, Thank you.  I looked at several youtube videos and loading the firmware looks pretty straight forward.  I noticed that there are Gotek branded products, and I assume, there are clones from

Hi Ke-Fong Lin, At the time I suggested these switches I forgot that occasionally Tek did use switches that were high up on "stilts". I think Tek must have done this so the push button ended up

tl;dr: check the 5115 manual at http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/5115 I don't know how much 51xx history you know, so please pardon if I tell what you already know. Maybe you have two manuals from early

Hi everyone, So I bought the replacement switches suggested by Dennis. And it now works! I've updated the photos. However, these are not completely drop-ins, issue is mainly length of the solder

Can you please send me list to harrimansat@...? All my 7000 plugins are working, I have learn a lot those years with them. Now I need a TDR to play with it, a 7L5 with TG and a rare