Later that was my conclusion as well although I never thought to check the other service manual instructions. I spent a lot of effort to get an accurate 0.2 millivolt DC signal for the trigger

The +12.6 volt regulator does not have any current limiting and no beta limiting on the output transistor so its dropout voltage will be very low. I do not see where the +20 volt supply is used other

Hi, The delay cal should be simple, basically anything will calibrate the scope. Did you do the Repet calibration before doing the delay? When doing the delay cal, you should see the scope

David, I went ahead and pulled Q2704 and put it in the curve tracer. Sure enough it was shorted out. I also damaged C2703 accidentally so I replaced that. The scope works perfect now! I made 2

Just checked my 585A (very short, I didn't want the LVs switched in because the HV sometimes sparks somewhere). The 20V is 18 V. I tried the relay separately with an external DC power supply between

Rodents of unusual size, err, I mean 475B? I do not think it exists.

An example of creeping senility :( I meant a 475A, of course. Yup; proudly stated on the back.

I think you may have found the answer: the low voltage 20V supply seems to be at fault. It may not be heating the delay tube enough to accurately trigger the time delay - as the heating power is

Hi all, I have done a few more tests. I checked the 20 V supply at the emitter of Q797 and it is around 14.8 V. If I short pin 4 and 9, the relay switches as expected. It seems that the relay does

All, I recently purchased a display board (A13) for my 7623A. I have installed it, but I cannot find in the manual which connectors go where. Is there someone who has a working 7623A who could send

Not an answer to your question - or maybe to some extent: What is a 475B? It was made in Heerenveen (Netherlands), that's for sure. Raymond

There are several holes in the 475B's case that allow trimming performance without removing the cover. These are documented in manuals. There's a similar hole in my DM44, but I haven't found any

Well, I guess I went ahead and tried the delay cal as-is. ... almost. I don't have any of those Y-BNC splitters, I have T's from 10base2 Ethernet, and terminators to match (I suspect these are

Hi. I collect older ham radios and test equipment. I have tried every single cleaner on the market. Every time I see a new one, I buy it. (also have hot rods and motorcycles) The ONLY cleaner I now

Simple Green has always been listed as a food safe cleaner. But as I recall it's also supposed to be used diluted. I've cleaned all sorts of surfaces with it, both diluted and full strength (for the

To me cleaning is a balance of taking off just enough but not too much. I have used the simple green on a lot of stuff, it is power full and if too concentrated for too long it will take off some of

Looks like each of the MSDS have different formulations (though the one that claims hazard=1 doesn't list anything...) so perhaps different formulas have different hazards? I took a look at the

Good enough reason not to use it! If you can't easily define what "it" is, then you could end up with the wrong thing. I checked as Dave suggested, by googling MSDSs and

Safe to cook on that grill after using SG on it? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

To find the ingredients google "Simple Green MSDS" MSDS is the "Material Safety Data Sheet" it lists the ingredients for the product of which there are many variants in the case of Simple Green --