It would be funny if the fixtures from a Tek 575 also worked in the Mastech DMM. [TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> wrote:

Jerry, Here is a link to the user manual. It explains how hfe measurements are

Hi, I recently junked my last meter with hfe and temp functions. Looking at Mastech MS8264 on ebay I see a hfe position but no xistor socket. does anyone know how transistors are tested on this

I own a vintage Hewlett-Packard VTVM calibration system (DC and 400 HZ), originally used by HP field techs. The last calibration run showed the output accuracy as 0.1% or better on all ranges. Dale

It all goes back to that old saying regarding a man with more than one watch never really knows what time it is... I do the same as far as using a DMM. No, it isn't calibrated, but my DMMs pretty

It's curiosity like this that leads to 'addiction' to metrology. Be careful. Since you will never actually know the exact value of any 'standard', you have to have something in your lab that you

I made a very simple board using one of the voltage reference chips. It's plenty accurate enough for an analog meter. A few high-precision resistive dividers are handy for other voltage ranges.

I don't think a chemical voltage standard would be all that useful, since the voltage does change as they age. In a cal lab they would be periodically compared wih a superior standard, and they'd keep

Henryk: I have seen certified voltage standards at some of the companies where I worked. They usually had their voltage stamped on the outside to 5-digit accuracy and traceable to the National Bureau

Havingretired in Nov 2014 at 59 after a long career in electronics,  I decided to pursue my passion          for guitaramps and have taken on a couple of commissions to design and build some

It would be interesting to know how members go about and keep in check accuracy of their workshop multimeters. I have 5 multimeters and each is giving slightly different results. It would be nice to

Ok, there was a request for some measurements: First, the primary of a 547 style transformer is wound: #1.....#2.......#3 0 ---- 20T ---- 60T It is universal wound with #38 gauge bifilar, parallel

Hi John, Total gap on the center leg will be about 0.014" to 0.016" under the tolerances tek built to. As I said earler, there are 3 ways I have seen the gap done: 1) all legs equal, gapped using

thanks Jerry Massengale

Chuck Everything I have seen is consistent with what you have said here. But for the gap size. I went back and re-measured because I did quite a bit of cleanup after the first set of measurements.

Hi Everyone, At last I have my power supplies working and the trace is back, but now I get down to the fix, the ch1 position pot is broken, its a dual 5k 0.5W (r185 311-1397-00 part no. 10M366A),

[TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> wrote: I've already dropped a 1N938B in there, and it works a charm. Like I posted earlier, dousing it in freezer spray drops the 100V by only 20mV, instead of

There is something that needs to be said to all future transformer hackers regarding epoxy: First, in the failed brown epoxy, it is soft always, but when heated to 130C, it becomes like chewing gum.

You may also consider a TL431 (three-pin shunt regulator) in TO-92 package plus two resistors. Raymond

I am in need of one guide rail for a TM5006. Tek 351-0619-00. I would also be interested in one of the rear corner bumpers (or two) if available. Anyone have either of these? Thanks - Dan