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Re: DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

David Slipper
 

I'm in the uk.

Get BlueMail for Android<https://bluemail.me>

On 7 Oct 2021, at 08:17, "Vintage Test via groups.io<http://groups.io>" <icloud.com<mailto:mel.purcell=<a>@groups.io target=_blank>mel.purcell=icloud.com<http://icloud.com>@groups.io> wrote:

David,

I have all of the electronics, and most of the mechanics of a TM5006 available - it’s missing only it’s mains transformer. I couldn’t find one to repair it, so and waited for another TM5006 to come up at the right price ! Where are you?

Cheers,
Mel


Re: DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

Vintage Test
 

David,

I have all of the electronics, and most of the mechanics of a TM5006 available - it’s missing only it’s mains transformer. I couldn’t find one to repair it, so and waited for another TM5006 to come up at the right price ! Where are you?

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .


Re: 2901 owners, I need your help.

Tom Lee
 

I agree with Ted. The rectifier should not ever run too hot to touch. Either there is a problem with the rectifier itself, or something else is drawing excessive current. That shouldn’t be too hard to find — it will be hot, too. If you have one of those cheap IR laser-aimed thermometer pistols, you should be able to locate it without risking a finger burn, if you want to go high-tech. But you don’t need such a gizmo — old-school sniffing about works.

Tom

Sent from my iThing, so please forgive typos and brevity.

On Oct 6, 2021, at 7:44 PM, tedbmoss@cox.net wrote:

It won't work for long if you can't touch the rectifier. One or more of the TTL devices is needing replacement.





Re: DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

Harvey White
 

The AC windings are often put in series.  Getting one out of phase results in far less voltage than you'd want.  The average TM500 mainframe checker should have tests available to make sure that the phases are correct (so they add).

History says that some TM500 mainframes were wired improperly. It made a difference on some plugins where the AC phases were added together to make an on-module power supply.  PG505 is one, and I suspect that the voltmeters were much the same.

There's a way that you can use opto-isolators to check phasing when using a microprocessor.  Another way with the same microprocessor would be to measure peak voltages vs. time to determine phasing.

Harvey

On 10/6/2021 7:49 PM, Jeff Dutky wrote:
here is the TM500-series plug-in interface page on the TekWiki, which will tell you what voltages are needed https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/TM500_Series_plug-in_interfaceT

The power modules also provide NPN and PNP series pass transistors that can be (and are) used by plug-ins, so it's just a dumb power bus. Depending on what plug-ins you want to test those pass transistors may be vital.

Finally, there is some important relationship between the different 25 VAC rails that I don't fully understand. They need to have a specific phase with respect to each other (and maybe to the 17.5 VAC rail?) or Bad Things[TM] can/will happen.

-- Jeff Dutky





Re: Tektronix 2445 calibration issues

Mark Vincent
 

Dennis,

Resistors: R710, R910 https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Film-Resistors/Metal-Film-Resistors-Through-Hole/_/N-7gz41Z1yzvvqx?P=1z0vko0Z1yzbppy&Keyword=1%25+resistor&FS=True (2 in series. Pick which two parts you want) The additional meg will not hurt. R1871 279-H4P150KFDA, R1872 279-H4P180KFDA, R1853 (2) 660-MF1/2CC2213F (put in series) , R1854 71-CCF60-332K, R1880 279-H4P430KFZA, R1991 588-SM102031006FE or 588-MOX-300001006FE, R1018, R1019 approx.100,000 ohm 1W 1-5% (bleeds off filters faster. Precision not necessary), R1020 71-CCF60-133K-E3 and 71-CCF60-137K-E3 or a single 2W 270,000 ohm, R1352, R1353 to one 588-45F7R5E (original pair of 15 ohm 1/2W resistors run hot), RT1696 parallel 10,000-13,000 ohms across thermistor to speed fan up, R1220 and R1240 check and replace if out of tolerance, R125, R225 279-H4P360RFZA , R811 279-H4P330RFCA. If you want to raise the 1/8W resistors in some places on the power supply board to 1/4W, go ahead, it is your item. Some of the resistors will give problems, especially on the high voltage board to the collectors of three transistors. The others should be raised in wattage and mounted off the board. The 270,000 ohm 1/2W resistor in the power supply should be 2W. The original is stressed hard.

Electrolytics and film: The main filter 290mfd to 390mfd Nichicon LGR. See which diameter will fit and get a pair to replace them. The 47mfd decoupling throughout Nichicon ULD, The 4,7mfd tantalims to 80-R82CC4470AA30J or 505-MKS2B044701KJC00. The caps on the A5 board can be the ULD 47mfd types The 47mfd electrolytics will be 25V. The RIFA types must be replaced! These are on the power supply schematic. The mains filters C1016, C1018 594-F339X126848MDA2B, C1020, C1051 594-F339X122248MDA2B, C1065 871-B32912A5563M. The 10mfd on the fan board can be a ULD 50V type. There are no lover voltages in that series at 10mfd. The 3.3mfd C1072 in the power supply 647-ULD2G3R3MPD.

Items listed as you progress down the schematics. Items listed are ones currently in stock. This is how I listed the Mouser part numbers.

Recapping and new resistors may cure your problems. The electrolytics I listed are low ESR, high temperature and long life. The film replacements for the three 4,7mfd tantalums is advised. These tantalums are frequently bad. Film is not polarized and have lower ESR than tantalum. The resistors I listed are 1% types that have very low resistance drift with temperature, PPM/C.

Check the diodes in the power supply. Some of the Schottky diodes can get leaky. These are CR1110, CR1113-6. If bad, replace them and use compound under the TO-220 rectifier. I use MX-4 compound.

I have done these things in my 2440 and 2465/B. The 2440 is fine now. That one was redone, calibrated with the d-c and a-c voltages according to the instructions along with the other instructions for calibration. The battery was installed last. I should have done it first to get rid of the fail messages. It took a few power cycles to get them to pass. I did it over a few days, one power cycle a day then a few days wait. I doubt it takes as many days to change. I had other work and waited to power it back on when I had the time. I made sure to oil the fans in the scopes. They were dry. I did add the above compound to the heatsinks on the CCDs in the 2440. That helped cool them better. I did have a small heatsink I added to U800 in the three scopes using the same compound. I used a thicker solid wire from the screw threads to hold the heatsink down and used another nut on the wire ends to hold it down. I bent the wires around the threads as though it would be an electrical connection even though it is not for electrical but mechanical. Some here do not believe in the U800 heatsink, some do. See if the higher voltage lead to the PDA is black/dusty. If so, I recommend taking the tube out and cleaning it off. The crt removal instructions are in the manual. I find that ammonia works well. That black stuff can be conductive causing leakage paths.

I hope this has been of help to you. I know it will be some work to get it overhauled. I find the work is worth the effort and cost of new parts. Cleaning makes it appear better visually and can prevent leakage pats and heat buildup.

Mark


Re: DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

 

here is the TM500-series plug-in interface page on the TekWiki, which will tell you what voltages are needed https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/TM500_Series_plug-in_interface

The power modules also provide NPN and PNP series pass transistors that can be (and are) used by plug-ins, so it's just a dumb power bus. Depending on what plug-ins you want to test those pass transistors may be vital.

Finally, there is some important relationship between the different 25 VAC rails that I don't fully understand. They need to have a specific phase with respect to each other (and maybe to the 17.5 VAC rail?) or Bad Things[TM] can/will happen.

-- Jeff Dutky


Re: Looking for WaveStar WSTR31 Version 1.3

n4mf.sc@...
 

Hi Hakan,
That's what the info showed on the exe. I think I acquired that from Bluefeather via FTP back in 2004.

Mitch
N4MF


Re: DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

Jared Cabot
 

It could be done with a bit of metal work and a couple transformers if you can find them cheaply enough, but in this case DIY may end up more expensive in the end if buying all new parts.

I have designed replacement PCB's for a TM503 mainframe that can get you staeted at least.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkNRUI_QtWo


Re: Tektronix 2445 calibration issues

Dennis Chertkovsky
 

Mark,

You are correct about no batteries.
I read a little and found that the 2445 has no batteries, 2445A has a discrete battery, and the 2445B has the dreaded NVRAM chips.

About recapping, I understand it is commonly done for these scopes, but is it necessary to address my current issues? The scope does have a little bit of common mode line current, but it’s a nonissue for the work I do (mostly isolated things). I can recap if it is really necessary, but getting the power supply out was a major bear of a task last time I did it, and I’d rather start with the cal issues.

About resistors, maybe some have drifted due to age and hot operation, but I’m not sure where to look; there are so many resistors. Do I just use a thermal camera?

How is the 2440 treating you? I read that they can self calibrate, which I would really want to have when my only direct references at home home are a $5 microcontroller board, a few out of cal DMMs, and a very out of cal ovenized power supply.

Sincerely,
Dennis Chertkovsky
dchertkovsky@gmail.com

On Oct 6, 2021, at 5:19 PM, Mark Vincent <orangeglowaudio@gmail.com> wrote:

Dennis,

The plain version of this does not have the integrated battery. The B version likely does. See if you have a battery in a plastic case on the side board. If so, get: 667-TL5903P (Mouser part number). See if you have surface mount electrolytics on that board. If so, replace them with radial leaded electrolytics or tantatums. The rest of the scope should have new electrolytics. The electrolytics should be something like Nichicon ULD and LGR for the two main filters. Raising the amount of capacitance in the power supply is normal by us on this group (an example is 180mfd to 330mfd). If yours has 4,7mfd tantalums in the power supply, film types would be a better replacement. I have recapped my 2465/B and 2440 this way. You may need to power cycle the scope a couple of times after replacing the condensers and battery. The 2440 of mine had fail modes a couple of times then it is right. I did put in the voltages it wanted to calibrate it. There are some resistors that should be raised in wattage, if it is like the 2465 series.

Mark



Re: Tektronix 2445 calibration issues

Mark Vincent
 

Dennis,

The plain version of this does not have the integrated battery. The B version likely does. See if you have a battery in a plastic case on the side board. If so, get: 667-TL5903P (Mouser part number). See if you have surface mount electrolytics on that board. If so, replace them with radial leaded electrolytics or tantatums. The rest of the scope should have new electrolytics. The electrolytics should be something like Nichicon ULD and LGR for the two main filters. Raising the amount of capacitance in the power supply is normal by us on this group (an example is 180mfd to 330mfd). If yours has 4,7mfd tantalums in the power supply, film types would be a better replacement. I have recapped my 2465/B and 2440 this way. You may need to power cycle the scope a couple of times after replacing the condensers and battery. The 2440 of mine had fail modes a couple of times then it is right. I did put in the voltages it wanted to calibrate it. There are some resistors that should be raised in wattage, if it is like the 2465 series.

Mark


Tektronix 2445 calibration issues

Dennis Chertkovsky
 

Hello all,

Short questions:
Can I make my 2445 think it is calibrated without the whole cal procedure?
Why would DC balance fail?
What to fix if I am unable to calibrate at faster timebase settings?

Long story (pardon the rambling):
My 2445 initially had a weird issue yesterday when I tried to DC balance channels 1 and 2 (pulling up on both coupling levers at the same time). It did the normal screen flicker but then got stuck and showed the message “Limit 3”. Nothing I did could get it out of this, so I restarted the scope.

When it came back on, I got the dreaded “test 04 fail 10” message indicating corrupted memory, and when I bypassed it, I was greeted with a row of dots along the bottom of the screen, indicating the scope thought it was out of calibration.

I decided to try calibrate at home, and thought maybe it would be enough to just calibrate the timebase. I fashioned together a crude time mark generator using a Raspi Pico (overclocked to 200 MHz for easy math) and a DIY breadboard-BNC adapter. I wrote some code capable of generating time marks from 50 ms to 10 ns and hoped the 30 ppm crystal onboard was good enough for me. I used hardware PWM to make sure timing was as good as the crystal allowed.
Cal procedure went fine until steps 15 and 16 (50 and 10 ns time marker periods), when I simply wasn’t able to intensify the 2nd and 10th time markers and the display told me “∆ Limit”. It seemed that the timebase was running too quickly. I’ve seen this issue before, when the scope underreported the frequency of 100 MHz signals.

This rough calibration was spot on down to maybe 500 ns/div, marginal at 200 ns/div, and bad at 100 ns/div and below.
Also, it fixed the “test 04 fail 10” message, so I guess the Dallas NVRAM chips live to see another day?


What could have caused the initial DC balance issue?

Is there something that could be broken inside the scope that caused the inability to calibrate at faster timebase settings, or is it the fault of my calibration generator? I haven’t tested it with a scope at work yet, so it could have issues at higher frequencies. Additionally, at 10 ns, the peaks become more like smears than neat little marks.

Do I need to complete the entire cal procedure to get rid of the dots?

How wide are time marks supposed to be? I found myself fiddling with that setting so much that I made it a another input for my program, wide marks for coarse alignment and then finer marks for small adjustments.

And does anyone have an OCR copy of the service manual? I have the standard PDF service manual, which is an absolute pain to browse on my computer due to the weird page numbering, and it’s far too long for me to consider printing at the moment.

Thank you
Sincerely,
Dennis Chertkovsky
dchertkovsky@gmail.com

P.S.
Additionally, I checked the time mark generator against line frequency, setting trigger mode to “Line” and asking the time mark generator to make marks at a multiple of 60 Hz (3 kHz), and they moved very slowly across the screen, occasionally changing direction (line frequency varies ever so slightly, check out the UTK FNET project for more info), showing I was maybe within 0.02 Hz of line frequency, close enough.


Re: Looking for WaveStar WSTR31 Version 1.3

Andrew
 

Hey all--

I decided to make a little archive of the different WaveStar (WSTRO) 2.x versions I've found and have uploaded them to the Internet Archive.

This collection includes versions 2.5, 2.6, 2.7.4 and 2.8.1, along with release notes and manuals for each version: https://archive.org/details/WSTRO_V25-V281

I also tried to comment on what the notable differences are with each version on the archive page.

Hopefully this can help those with older scopes that are looking to run WaveStar.

Thanks


Fair market value of Tektronix 1S1, 1S2, 2B1?

Brad Thompson
 

Hello--

I have one each 1S1 and  1S2 plug-ins and one 2B1 pulser, all of which I'd like to sell. I can't locate
prices for these. The plug-ins appear to be in good condition and show no signs of
repairs or component salvage. All front-panel knobs are present. The 1S1's smaller-diameter
slightly-bent rear alignment pin will require straightening. The 2B1 is in fair cosmetic condition.

I have no way to test these and am offering them as-is and with no guarantees.

Thanks in advance for your assistance-- I'll keep estimates private so please contact me directly.

73--

Brad  AA1IP
Sent from Postbox <https://www.postbox-inc.com>


Re: 7000 series parts hulks

Michael Perkins
 

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 4:15 PM Oz-in-DFW <lists@ozindfw.net> wrote:

I have a 7603, 7613, and 7633 parts hulk. All are for sale for $20 plus
whatever shipping actually costs if you can't pickup in the DFW Area. I may
need to buy a box and bubble wrap.

The plug in bays are damaged beyond hope. Teh tubes and PS's look intact
based om my casual inspection. If there is interest I'll post detailed
photos for download off my site to keep the load off the group.

I also have 7000 plugins, also pars. at least a 7A11, 7A18, and 7D14, a
test plugin of some sort and what is basically a frame with few guts.
Detailed photos later in the week. $5-$15 depending on shape.
--
Oz (in DFW) N1OZ






Re: DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

Ke-Fong Lin
 

TM5003 and TM5006 can be found quite cheap. Look on ebay, there should be less than $200.
Also, the SG5010 can be modified (need to unscrew and "retract" the GPIB related connector board) the to be used on the older TM503/TM504/TM506 mainframes.

It's possible to run without a mainframe, I've done it for debugging purpose : https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/243643/2878191?p=created%2C%2Cextender%2C20%2C2%2C100%2C0
The mainframes are supplying multiple voltages (DC and AC), I don't think it would be much cheaper to do a DIY mainframe, when originals can be found rather cheap.


loaded TM504 on ebay

Vince Vielhaber
 

This is in an odd spot since Main Trading is selluing it. It's in with ham radio transceivers. Anyway in case anyone is looking:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265346208950

Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corporation -- nobucks dot net
K8ZW - http://www.hamradio.fun


DIY Frame for SG5010 etc ???

David Slipper
 

Is it practical to build a DIY mainframe (like the TM5006) to house and use the likes of a SG5010/DC5010/FG5010 ???

I have been offered these at a reasonable price but without the mainframe which seem expensive.

Regards,
Dave


Re: Looking for WaveStar WSTR31 Version 1.3

 

On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 12:46 PM, <n4mf.sc@gmail.com> wrote:


I just uploaded Wavestar 4.1.100.1332
That's Wavestar version 2.7.4

/Håkan


Re: FS: Tek 067-0657-00 Normalized Ramp Generator Calibration Fixture

Stephen
 

I send you a private message.


Re: 7000 series parts hulks

Brian
 

Hi again , thanks for the info .
Brian (UK)

On Wednesday, 6 October 2021, 15:58:06 BST, Oz-in-DFW <lists@ozindfw.net> wrote:

In the Dallas, Texas (DFW) area, so probably not an option for the UK.

--
Oz (in DFW) N1OZ

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