Date   

Tek TM500/5000 mating connectors

 

Noting all the ongoing comments on extenders, I do have 6 new factory parts, p/n 131-1078-00.
These are the heavy green 56 gold contact double-sided PC mounting connectors, with slots for keying tabs.

These also work for the 5000 series scope plug ins. You will notice these are wider and thicker than normal
edge connectors, this seems to be done for increased mechanical strength. The original maker may be CCC
as that is the only vendor marking on the part other than the Tek part number.

If you need one, email me off list, looking for US$15 each for these. I will toss them up on the stuff page with
pics later today.

All the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.


Re: Tektronix 570 Curve Tracer

David Simpson MM6ACI
 

Many thanks Guys for the informative advice. Particularly regarding considering other models in the 57* family. As emissionlabs says, the AVO VCM163 is highly thought of here in the UK. Never owned one, but have owned a couple of CT160's in the past. Currently I use an AVO VCM MK3 which I restored, for "run of the mill" valve testing. (the CT160 is just a MK3/4 squeezed into a military grade clam-shell casing). But then, all of AVO's(and other UK manufacturer's, and Hickok's etc.) range of valve/tube testers all work using full-wave &/or half-wave mains frequency derived pulses on the working electrodes - Anode(Plate), Screen(G2) & Grid.
For several years I supplied a few folk in the UK vintage-radio fraternity with "Standardised" valves(ECC81's & 82's) using a hybridised CT160, but then some folk started to ask for standardised "power valves" - BT's & Pentodes. So, decided to build a fully DC Valve Tester which could determine mu & Gain "G" as well as just Gm. In addition, the bigger beasts - KT66's & 88's, etc., requiring matching of GM curves, could be supplied with A4 graphs.
Move foreward several years past "3 score years & ten" - getting older, eyes OK but they do get tired at times, wrist gets tired, and so on. Hence the thought of acquiring an item of vintage test equipment which could display a number of valve characteristics becomes rather attractive. From the pictures I've seen of a 570's CRT display, a decent digital camera or iPhone - should take some jolly nice pictures.
Again as "emissionlabs" says, buying an old clapped-out item is fraught with problems. For a 570, one would at least want the 5 transformers & the CRT working. Cosmetic & circuitry problems can be sorted with care and patience. I've already seen the strong warning in the 570's Manual about using the correct grade of solder, and soldering iron tips & temperature, when working on the ceramic tag strips. Back in the 60's & 70's I did work on RAF HP180A's, Collins 618T's, etc., so appreciate the high standard of US equipment.
Some folk might say ' why not buy something cheap & modern from China' using an LCD screen & a software package. No thank you. I'm just an old analogue guy with a 1960's, + or - ten years, mindset!

Regards, Dave


Re: Tektronix 570 Curve Tracer

Glydeck
 

Wow! Emissionslab, great page on the 576. Your repair notes will be super helpful. Great detail.

Chuck, Love your tube tester solution. Very nice documentation.

I’ve book marked both pages. For what it’s worth here is my solution using my 575;

http://glydeck.blogspot.com/2012/01/testing-dual-triodes-with-tek-575.html

http://glydeck.blogspot.com/2012/02/testing-miniature-pentodes-with-tek-575.html

The PDF files are on groups.io

https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/files/Tek575TestFixtures.pdf

https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/files/Tek575_TriodeTester.pdf

73s George KD6NEW

On Aug 22, 2021, at 7:40 AM, ChuckA <chuck@myvintagetv.com> wrote:

I bought a couple of Dennis's VTCT boards when he first produced them. I built a couple of crude adapters to use on my 576 which worked pretty well but were cumbersome to use.

I didn't like the use of a tube tester to get the required additions to make the adapter work so I decided to make a standalone unit to attach to the 576. After a couple of months and talking to Dennis about some issues I ran into, I came up with this:

http://www.myvintagetv.com/TEK576Tube.htm

Chuck

--
See Early TV at:

www.myvintagetv.com






Re: Tektronix 570 Curve Tracer

ChuckA
 

I bought a couple of Dennis's VTCT boards when he first produced them. I built a couple of crude adapters to use on my 576 which worked pretty well but were cumbersome to use.

I didn't like the use of a tube tester to get the required additions to make the adapter work so I decided to make a standalone unit to attach to the 576. After a couple of months and talking to Dennis about some issues I ran into, I came up with this:

http://www.myvintagetv.com/TEK576Tube.htm

Chuck

--
See Early TV at:

www.myvintagetv.com


Manual for TM504A

Jared Cabot
 

Hi,

Does anyone happen to have a manual to suit the TM504A?
I just picked one of these up today, but I can't find much online.

Thanks!
Jared


Re: What is a mod BG to 7103 or 7104?

John Griessen
 

On 8/21/21 5:22 PM, zenith5106 via groups.io wrote:
//
MOD BG includes modifying the 7104 by adding braces to
the front-panel casting and strengthening the mounting of the crt bezel.
//
/Håkan
Thanks Håkan! So that camera bezel was factory mounted. Mystery solved.


Re: 2236 Focus range.

Alex
 

This is a well known and documented problem in the 22xx line. There is a string of 5 (or 6) 510K resistors that over time change value and produce the focus problem in some cases even going off the potentiometer adjustment range. Just replace all resistors with metaI film types and 1-2W rating, and also make sure that each resistor is rated to handle at least 300V or more. Don't have any specific knowledge of the 2236, but for sure had to replace these resistors in two separate 2213A which basically are the same in this sense. Do a search here and I am sure you will find many other messages referring to this particular problem.


Re: Tektronix 570 Curve Tracer

emissionlabs
 

Hello Dave,

I have had some 50 different tube testers in my collection. People sometimes think a curve tracer is useful for tube testing, but a curve tracer is not a tube tester. When the tube is definitely bad you will see that from the curves, but for the rest, Gm, gain, Ra, the use condition, and typical defects such as grid leakage, heater to cathode leakage, these things don't reflect in an optical way from the curves. But of course, it is great fun looking at tube curves, or curves of many other parts as well. For tube testing, VCM163 is one of the very finest testers ever made, and in the UK, you probably find one locally. I wanted to get a 570 myself too, these are so rare, you either pay 4000 Euro for a good one, or any lower price for one which you may end up having to restore it completely. But I do not want to repair other people's junk and mess any more. So I went for the 576, which can be found in good quality. These can do the same and a lot more, just it doesn't have a heater power supply and no G2 Voltage. I can do without G2, just test pentodes in triode mode. And if it becomes crucial to use G2, I can still take an external power supply. 576 can test at MUCH higher anode voltage than 570. I choose for the 576 because of the semi-digital read out. But 576 has really insane weight. For lifting it from the floor on the bench, you can not do this on your own. So at it's lighter weight, 577 is probably also a good one. But I can only speak for the 576, and I never regretted buying it. Here is a link to my 576: https://www.jacmusic.com/Tube-testers/TEK-576/Tek-576-1-General-Part.html


FS on Craigslist 2465B $150 US Massachusetts

 


Re: Techie Garage Sale: Date Correction

Bruce Lane
 

Heh... Practically on top of me. That being the case, I hope you'll
have time to swing by.

Thanks.

On 22-Aug-21 00:06, Randy Newman wrote:
Hi Bruce.
FYI, I am a bit NE of you, south of Renton.




--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
http://www.bluefeathertech.com
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)


2236 Focus range.

Dave Peterson
 

Hi All,

I'm running through calibration on a 2236. Everything's going great. But something I noticed is that the focus is at the extreme CCW end of the FOCUS knob/pot.

I'm getting a fairly good trace line. Not as good as my bench 465 (I can just about hide the trace behind a graticule line on that), and not quite as good as my 2236A. But even the 2236A isn't as good as the 465. I can't help but wonder if the focus could be/would be better if the adjustment weren't at the end of its range.

I've gone through the power supply and CRT sections several times making sure voltage levels are staying good, setting a proper grid bias, geometries, and astigmatism. The cathode voltage is within spec at -1933v. It started at -1934v this morning, and the scope's been on all day. So pretty stable. All the other PS values are within mVs from this morning too. When I circled back to the grid bias adjustment this evening it needed a tiny tweak, but hardly anything that suggests a larger problem with the grid circuit.

I got through the vertical section of the calibration today, and all is well. The measured BW is around 130MHz. Even the 2mV/div BW was about 118MHz (spec is 90MHz). The focus is reasonably good - again, I don't know that it would get better with more range on the knob. But I can't help but think that the adjustment range should be closer to center, and that it might be indicative of a problem. Something marginal on its way to failure?

When I look at the schematic nothing really jumps out as me as a likely problem, but the focus circuit appears powered by the HV multiplier output. Could the anode voltage be sagging? How do I check that? I don't mean go buy an HV probe - I've done that. I mean, how do you safely access and measure the anode voltage? It's all sealed up, and I'm not keen on the idea of piercing insulation or jamming sharp things into the anode connector. Do 'yall just unplug it and use a wire or something to measure the socket inside the female side of the connector?

And I haven't seen what it should be. What should the anode voltage be for a 2236? What are it's specs? I have a physical manual, but I'm not completely familiar with it - I don't know where it would tell me what the anode should be, and what its limits are. It's not part of the calibration procedure.

Any help is appreciated. I need to call it a day and get some sleep. Thanks all.
Dave


Re: Techie Garage Sale: Date Correction

Randy Newman
 

Hi Bruce.
FYI, I am a bit NE of you, south of Renton.


Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Harvey White
 

It seems to be that the idea is to use the JAMMA female connector, and roll your own male connector.  If not, then get a PC board that is isolated, pin to pin for the number of connectors you need, a JAMMA female connector, and roll your own.  You'll need to know how to make PC boards or how to find the right Gerbers (or premade boards).

On the other hand, check into PC board fabrication prices, and if you can do it, making your own is likely better, once you get the female connector.  Connections between the male PC board and Female connector (you may need another PC board made) can be ribbon connectors.  I used the standard 30 gauge ribbon cable, and doubled the pins.  That was for the 7000 series scopes, and I've seen the same done for TM 500 or TM 5000 series.  The TM series can use/demand higher currents.

Whatever you do, put the slots in for the keys for the connector, label the font/back and TOP/BOTTOM VERY carefully, and DO NOT short any pins on the TM500 or TM5000 "unused" connector pins. They *can* be used on the plugins, and you may not know it.

For the 5000 series scopes, pin to pin ought to work, with the 5400 series scopes *may* needing coax connectors because of the bandwidth.  Haven't done any of them.

For TM500/TM5000 power supplies, do functional testing only because they *are* connected with either #30 or #28 (if doubled) wire and will need heavier wire at higher loads.

PC boards are not that difficult to do, *if* you have the programs and some experience doing PC boards.

If none of the above suits you, then you're in the category of "go find one and buy it, hopefully  not too expensive".

The TM500 series *can* be put on an extender, Dan Meeks did an excellent job making them when they were available.  The 7000 series was available with a different approach.

Harvey

On 8/21/2021 9:20 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
I had used a Jamma extender as bought and didn't notice on the upper pins the A and B pins on a few were tied together.  The plugin I was using with it was using those pins.

If you buy one, look it over real carefully.

Vince.

On 08/21/2021 05:15 PM, Andy Warner wrote:
I should clarify. This can happen if you use the the pcb that plugs into
the mainframe on a TM500,  when you simply use the JAMMA extender as
bought, or when you would use it in a 5000 series scope (as per the OP.)

For the 5000 series scope, I would expect that:

1. The high speed signals would use coax (not present on JAMMA cables), so
you are likely to make a new cable harness.
2. Almost all the pins are used, unlike the TM500, that really leaves the
top pins uncommitted (until someone commits them.)

I was simply warning against buying the kind of JAMMA extenders that shorts
a bunch of pins out, that is all. As others have pointed out, it isn’t
fatal, and can be fixed, but I recommend taking the effort to avoid that
(and the resulting FR4 dust.)


On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 15:24 Vince Vielhaber <vev@michvhf.com> wrote:


On 08/21/2021 09:09 AM, Andy Warner wrote:
Watch out - some of the JAMMA extender cards have single copper pours
spanning multiple connector locations, where the power rails are in the
arcade game use case. For TM500 use, I don’t care, and just make sure
those
align with the upper part of the slot, where the mainframe pins are
uncommitted.
Be careful there.  I did the same thing and one module was using a
couple of those pins and the tops blew off of a few ICs.


Vince.
--
         Michigan VHF Corporation -- nobucks dot net
               K8ZW - http://www.hamradio.fun





--
Andy





Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Vince Vielhaber
 

I had used a Jamma extender as bought and didn't notice on the upper pins the A and B pins on a few were tied together. The plugin I was using with it was using those pins.

If you buy one, look it over real carefully.

Vince.

On 08/21/2021 05:15 PM, Andy Warner wrote:
I should clarify. This can happen if you use the the pcb that plugs into
the mainframe on a TM500, when you simply use the JAMMA extender as
bought, or when you would use it in a 5000 series scope (as per the OP.)

For the 5000 series scope, I would expect that:

1. The high speed signals would use coax (not present on JAMMA cables), so
you are likely to make a new cable harness.
2. Almost all the pins are used, unlike the TM500, that really leaves the
top pins uncommitted (until someone commits them.)

I was simply warning against buying the kind of JAMMA extenders that shorts
a bunch of pins out, that is all. As others have pointed out, it isn’t
fatal, and can be fixed, but I recommend taking the effort to avoid that
(and the resulting FR4 dust.)


On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 15:24 Vince Vielhaber <vev@michvhf.com> wrote:


On 08/21/2021 09:09 AM, Andy Warner wrote:
Watch out - some of the JAMMA extender cards have single copper pours
spanning multiple connector locations, where the power rails are in the
arcade game use case. For TM500 use, I don’t care, and just make sure
those
align with the upper part of the slot, where the mainframe pins are
uncommitted.
Be careful there. I did the same thing and one module was using a
couple of those pins and the tops blew off of a few ICs.


Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corporation -- nobucks dot net
K8ZW - http://www.hamradio.fun





--
Andy



--
Michigan VHF Corporation -- nobucks dot net
K8ZW - http://www.hamradio.fun


Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Jim Ford
 

IIRC, the Molex Mini-Fit series worked OK, but the Micro-Fit did not. Could be the other way around. One series got intermixed with the AMP "equivalent" at a previous employer making industrial equipment (wirebonders), and AMP + AMP = great, AMP + Molex = lousy, and Molex + Molex = lousy. Discovered after many units out in the field (of course!).

I was friends with the local Molex sales engineer years ago, and he got me some free samples of IIRC 50-pin connectors for a Tek Prism series logic analyzer display (to bring us back on-topic). Really cheap stamped metal that folded into a backshell; about as sturdy as a cardboard box! I found the AMP version at Digi-Key for about $5. Much, much more robust and made of cast metal that bolted together nicely. No comparison!

Jim

------ Original Message ------
From: "Harvey White" <madyn@dragonworks.info>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 8/21/2021 5:32:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

I agree on molex quality. Not good enough for what I do or want to do. Stopped using them many years ago. Don't remember the ones you were talking about, but a similar idea is had with flat flex cable and locking connectors.

I'm using the usual 0.100 spaced connectors with the .025 pins on my projects. I've got access to them and generally not the 2mm connectors or the cable.

Harvey


On 8/21/2021 3:57 PM, Jim Ford wrote:
Yeah, Harvey, I think I've seen the Molex ones, too. The ones I'm thinking of were right-angle and had a locking tab on top. Once mated, you had to lift the tab to get them unmated (and occasionally it would break off, ruining the connector, unless you didn't need it to lock). Probably not very useful with the TM500(0) series boxes, but I just thought I'd throw ITW Paktron out there.

BTW, I'm not a big fan of Molex. Seen AMP (now TE Connectivity) and other manufacturers have much better quality too many times vs. Molex.

Jim

------ Original Message ------
From: "Harvey White" <madyn@dragonworks.info>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 8/21/2021 4:11:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

There are some molex connectors with that spacing, and heavier pins and sockets. Far enough back <grin> they used to be used for PC (and apple) power connectors.

finding them may be fun, though.

Harvey


On 8/21/2021 4:58 PM, Jim Ford wrote:
About 20 years ago we used ITW Paktron 0.156 inch spacing connectors for lines that needed to pass more current than we were comfortable passing through those 0.1 inch spacing connectors with the 0.025 inch square pins. Don't know if they are still made. HTH. Jim Ford Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> Date: 8/21/21 10:17 AM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s) For equipment of this vintage, the standard spacing was 0.156. Higher density went to 0.1 inches, and there was a 0.125 in there somewhere.A quick look at mouser shows 44 pin dual readout (not what we need) for 11 dollars or so. All others are not in stock.Amazon seems more reasonable, the JAMMA female connectors look decent enough, but check shipping and check prices for everything.HarveyOn 8/21/2021 10:50 AM, Jeff Dutky wrote:> My approach to designing the TM500 proto board was similar to Harvey’s, except I skipped the paper template. I just measured the board from a TM500 plug-in and drew it up in my EDA package. The key slots were just a matter of drawing them into the board outline. I did do multiple measurements of the contact spacing and card edge finger dimensions with calipers before I drew anything on the computer, just to be sure (it did not occur to me to look up the connector and see what the specs were, for some fool reason). Once the board was drawn up I did multiple validation measurements using the EDA package’s measurement tool, to verify contact and key slot spacing against my sample plug-in.>> To layout the contacts I first drew a single contact position, copied and pasted it, and then carefully arranged it for my measured spacing. With a pair of contacts created I then repeated the process with the pair, then the quad, octet, etc, until I had 32 contacts with the correct spacing, then I deleted the unneeded contacts. It would have been smarter to set the package’s grid spacing to the connector’s spec beforehand, but I didn’t think of that (for some fool reason, again).>> When I got the boards from my PCB house (I used JLCPCB) I discovered that they had changed the width of the boards very slightly, adding a fraction of a mm for some reason. The cards were very hard to insert into the backplane, as a result. I used a hand file to take tiny fraction of a mm off either side of the card edge connector fingers and that seemed to do the trick, even though the change was barely visible to the naked eye (you could feel it pretty well with a finger nail, however). This is why I marked the modified boards with check marks, because I’d never be sure I had corrected them otherwise,>> Using the same method to make 5000-series extender would be easy enough. I don’t expect there will be much difficulty finding a card edge slot on Mouser of Digi-Key to fit the plug-ins, but I don’t think I’ve actually looked for those yet.>> — Jeff Dutky>>> >>>
















Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Harvey White
 

I agree on molex quality.  Not good enough for what I do or want to do.  Stopped using them many years ago.  Don't remember the ones you were talking about, but a similar idea is had with flat flex cable and locking connectors.

I'm using the usual 0.100 spaced connectors with the .025 pins on my projects.  I've got access to them and generally not the 2mm connectors or the cable.

Harvey

On 8/21/2021 3:57 PM, Jim Ford wrote:
Yeah, Harvey, I think I've seen the Molex ones, too.  The ones I'm thinking of were right-angle and had a locking tab on top.  Once mated, you had to lift the tab to get them unmated (and occasionally it would break off, ruining the connector, unless you didn't need it to lock).  Probably not very useful with the TM500(0) series boxes, but I just thought I'd throw ITW Paktron out there.

BTW, I'm not a big fan of Molex.  Seen AMP (now TE Connectivity) and other manufacturers have much better quality too many times vs. Molex.

Jim

------ Original Message ------
From: "Harvey White" <madyn@dragonworks.info>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 8/21/2021 4:11:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

There are some molex connectors with that spacing, and heavier pins and sockets.  Far enough back <grin> they used to be used for PC (and apple) power connectors.

finding them may be fun, though.

Harvey


On 8/21/2021 4:58 PM, Jim Ford wrote:
About 20 years ago we used ITW Paktron 0.156 inch spacing connectors for lines that needed to pass more current than we were comfortable passing through those 0.1 inch spacing connectors with the 0.025 inch square pins. Don't know if they are still made.  HTH.             Jim Ford Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> Date: 8/21/21  10:17 AM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s) For equipment of this vintage, the standard spacing was 0.156. Higher density went to 0.1 inches, and there was a 0.125 in there somewhere.A quick look at mouser shows 44 pin dual readout (not what we need) for 11 dollars or so.  All others are not in stock.Amazon seems more reasonable, the JAMMA female connectors look decent enough, but check shipping and check prices for everything.HarveyOn 8/21/2021 10:50 AM, Jeff Dutky wrote:> My approach to designing the TM500 proto board was similar to Harvey’s, except I skipped the paper template. I just measured the board from a TM500 plug-in and drew it up in my EDA package. The key slots were just a matter of drawing them into the board outline. I did do multiple measurements of the contact spacing and card edge finger dimensions with calipers before I drew anything on the computer, just to be sure (it did not occur to me to look up the connector and see what the specs were, for some fool reason). Once the board was drawn up I did multiple validation measurements using the EDA package’s measurement tool, to verify contact and key slot spacing against my sample plug-in.>> To layout the contacts I first drew a single contact position, copied and pasted it, and then carefully arranged it for my measured spacing. With a pair of contacts created I then repeated the process with the pair, then the quad, octet, etc, until I had 32 contacts with the correct spacing, then I deleted the unneeded contacts. It would have been smarter to set the package’s grid spacing to the connector’s spec beforehand, but I didn’t think of that (for some fool reason, again).>> When I got the boards from my PCB house (I used JLCPCB) I discovered that they had changed the width of the boards very slightly, adding a fraction of a mm for some reason. The cards were very hard to insert into the backplane, as a result. I used a hand file to take tiny fraction of a mm off either side of the card edge connector fingers and that seemed to do the trick, even though the change was barely visible to the naked eye (you could feel it pretty well with a finger nail, however). This is why I marked the modified boards with check marks, because I’d never be sure I had corrected them otherwise,>> Using the same method to make 5000-series extender would be easy enough. I don’t expect there will be much difficulty finding a card edge slot on Mouser of Digi-Key to fit the plug-ins, but I don’t think I’ve actually looked for those yet.>> — Jeff Dutky>>> >>>












Re: What is a mod BG to 7103 or 7104?

 

On Fri, Aug 20, 2021 at 06:46 PM, John Griessen wrote:


So... what is mod BG
Mod BG description:

//
MOD BG includes modifying the 7104 by adding braces to
the front-panel casting and strengthening the mounting of the crt bezel.
//

/Håkan


Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Jim Ford
 

Uh, high speed signals in a 5000 series scope? Well, maybe I'm thinking of the 5100 series, topping out at about 1-2 MHz. Great for audio and other low-frequency use.

I suppose the 5400 series goes up to 60 MHz, so you might want to use coax in your extender.

Jim Ford

------ Original Message ------
From: "Andy Warner" <andyw@pobox.com>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 8/21/2021 4:15:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

I should clarify. This can happen if you use the the pcb that plugs into
the mainframe on a TM500, when you simply use the JAMMA extender as
bought, or when you would use it in a 5000 series scope (as per the OP.)

For the 5000 series scope, I would expect that:

1. The high speed signals would use coax (not present on JAMMA cables), so
you are likely to make a new cable harness.
2. Almost all the pins are used, unlike the TM500, that really leaves the
top pins uncommitted (until someone commits them.)

I was simply warning against buying the kind of JAMMA extenders that shorts
a bunch of pins out, that is all. As others have pointed out, it isn’t
fatal, and can be fixed, but I recommend taking the effort to avoid that
(and the resulting FR4 dust.)


On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 15:24 Vince Vielhaber <vev@michvhf.com> wrote:


On 08/21/2021 09:09 AM, Andy Warner wrote:
> Watch out - some of the JAMMA extender cards have single copper pours
> spanning multiple connector locations, where the power rails are in the
> arcade game use case. For TM500 use, I don’t care, and just make sure
those
> align with the upper part of the slot, where the mainframe pins are
> uncommitted.

Be careful there. I did the same thing and one module was using a
couple of those pins and the tops blew off of a few ICs.


Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corporation -- nobucks dot net
K8ZW - http://www.hamradio.fun





--
Andy





Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Jim Ford
 

Yeah, Harvey, I think I've seen the Molex ones, too. The ones I'm thinking of were right-angle and had a locking tab on top. Once mated, you had to lift the tab to get them unmated (and occasionally it would break off, ruining the connector, unless you didn't need it to lock). Probably not very useful with the TM500(0) series boxes, but I just thought I'd throw ITW Paktron out there.

BTW, I'm not a big fan of Molex. Seen AMP (now TE Connectivity) and other manufacturers have much better quality too many times vs. Molex.

Jim

------ Original Message ------
From: "Harvey White" <madyn@dragonworks.info>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 8/21/2021 4:11:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

There are some molex connectors with that spacing, and heavier pins and sockets. Far enough back <grin> they used to be used for PC (and apple) power connectors.

finding them may be fun, though.

Harvey


On 8/21/2021 4:58 PM, Jim Ford wrote:
About 20 years ago we used ITW Paktron 0.156 inch spacing connectors for lines that needed to pass more current than we were comfortable passing through those 0.1 inch spacing connectors with the 0.025 inch square pins. Don't know if they are still made. HTH. Jim Ford Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> Date: 8/21/21 10:17 AM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Wanted: 5000 series extender(s) For equipment of this vintage, the standard spacing was 0.156. Higher density went to 0.1 inches, and there was a 0.125 in there somewhere.A quick look at mouser shows 44 pin dual readout (not what we need) for 11 dollars or so. All others are not in stock.Amazon seems more reasonable, the JAMMA female connectors look decent enough, but check shipping and check prices for everything.HarveyOn 8/21/2021 10:50 AM, Jeff Dutky wrote:> My approach to designing the TM500 proto board was similar to Harvey’s, except I skipped the paper template. I just measured the board from a TM500 plug-in and drew it up in my EDA package. The key slots were just a matter of drawing them into the board outline. I did do multiple measurements of the contact spacing and card edge finger dimensions with calipers before I drew anything on the computer, just to be sure (it did not occur to me to look up the connector and see what the specs were, for some fool reason). Once the board was drawn up I did multiple validation measurements using the EDA package’s measurement tool, to verify contact and key slot spacing against my sample plug-in.>> To layout the contacts I first drew a single contact position, copied and pasted it, and then carefully arranged it for my measured spacing. With a pair of contacts created I then repeated the process with the pair, then the quad, octet, etc, until I had 32 contacts with the correct spacing, then I deleted the unneeded contacts. It would have been smarter to set the package’s grid spacing to the connector’s spec beforehand, but I didn’t think of that (for some fool reason, again).>> When I got the boards from my PCB house (I used JLCPCB) I discovered that they had changed the width of the boards very slightly, adding a fraction of a mm for some reason. The cards were very hard to insert into the backplane, as a result. I used a hand file to take tiny fraction of a mm off either side of the card edge connector fingers and that seemed to do the trick, even though the change was barely visible to the naked eye (you could feel it pretty well with a finger nail, however). This is why I marked the modified boards with check marks, because I’d never be sure I had corrected them otherwise,>> Using the same method to make 5000-series extender would be easy enough. I don’t expect there will be much difficulty finding a card edge slot on Mouser of Digi-Key to fit the plug-ins, but I don’t think I’ve actually looked for those yet.>> — Jeff Dutky>>> >>>








Re: Wanted: 5000 series extender(s)

Andy Warner
 

I should clarify. This can happen if you use the the pcb that plugs into
the mainframe on a TM500, when you simply use the JAMMA extender as
bought, or when you would use it in a 5000 series scope (as per the OP.)

For the 5000 series scope, I would expect that:

1. The high speed signals would use coax (not present on JAMMA cables), so
you are likely to make a new cable harness.
2. Almost all the pins are used, unlike the TM500, that really leaves the
top pins uncommitted (until someone commits them.)

I was simply warning against buying the kind of JAMMA extenders that shorts
a bunch of pins out, that is all. As others have pointed out, it isn’t
fatal, and can be fixed, but I recommend taking the effort to avoid that
(and the resulting FR4 dust.)


On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 15:24 Vince Vielhaber <vev@michvhf.com> wrote:


On 08/21/2021 09:09 AM, Andy Warner wrote:
Watch out - some of the JAMMA extender cards have single copper pours
spanning multiple connector locations, where the power rails are in the
arcade game use case. For TM500 use, I don’t care, and just make sure
those
align with the upper part of the slot, where the mainframe pins are
uncommitted.
Be careful there. I did the same thing and one module was using a
couple of those pins and the tops blew off of a few ICs.


Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corporation -- nobucks dot net
K8ZW - http://www.hamradio.fun





--
Andy

4441 - 4460 of 189661