Date   

Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

Dave Wise
 

I’ve been using the RPR a lot lately. (Though not enough to remember it’s the Registry not the Record ☺ )
In the same area is a document of the test conditions for all the 157- checked and matched tubes. That’s priceless if you have e.g. a 1A7.

From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Raymond Domp Frank via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 2:29 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 11:05 PM, Dave Wise wrote:


LMGTFY…

https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Replaceable_Parts_Registry_<https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Replaceable_Parts_Registry_> (RPR)
Yeah, I found that. I remember placing some of the documents there myself some time ago.
I think it's a bit difficult to find, hidden deep down from the main menu.

Raymond


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

 

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 11:05 PM, Dave Wise wrote:


LMGTFY…

https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Replaceable_Parts_Registry_ (RPR)
Yeah, I found that. I remember placing some of the documents there myself some time ago.
I think it's a bit difficult to find, hidden deep down from the main menu.

Raymond


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

 

Joe,

I have a scope that it would fit, that might need a replacement CRT (when I get it patched up enough to power it on). I'm located in Maryland; would it be possible to arrange receipt of this CRT?

-- Jeff Dutky


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

Dave Wise
 

LMGTFY…

https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Replaceable_Parts_Registry_(RPR)

From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Raymond Domp Frank via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 1:54 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 10:37 PM, Dave Wise wrote:


30 seconds of looking at the 154 Replaceable Parts Record, available for free
download at w140.com .

154-0235-00 is for the 531A, 533, 533A, and 535A.
Where did you find that, Dave?

Raymond


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

Joe
 

Dave,
thank you very much! Got to admit I had not found that info before. So it is clear now the crt won't fit to any of my scopes.
Regards, Joe


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

 

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 10:53 PM, Raymond Domp Frank wrote:



30 seconds of looking at the 154 Replaceable Parts Record, available for
free
download at w140.com .

154-0235-00 is for the 531A, 533, 533A, and 535A.
Where did you find that, Dave?
Had to ask to find it 30 secs later..."Replaceable Parts Registry".

Raymond


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

 

On Wed, Jul 7, 2021 at 10:37 PM, Dave Wise wrote:


30 seconds of looking at the 154 Replaceable Parts Record, available for free
download at w140.com .

154-0235-00 is for the 531A, 533, 533A, and 535A.
Where did you find that, Dave?

Raymond


Re: Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

Dave Wise
 

30 seconds of looking at the 154 Replaceable Parts Record, available for free download at w140.com .

154-0235-00 is for the 531A, 533, 533A, and 535A. (I believe it can also be used in the 531 and 535, perhaps with a small circuit modification.)
It’s P15 phosphor, which is not the usual type. It’s green with short persistence where the usual type is P2 or P31 which are medium persistence. Tek said P15 was for “Television pick-up of photographs by Flying Spot Scanning.”

HTH,
Dave Wise

From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Joe via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 1:30 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: [TekScopes] Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

Hello,

I have been offered a crt Tek 154-0235-00, NOS boxed. Can anyone id to which scope it would fit?
Thanks for replies!

Regards, Joe


Tek 154-0235-00, where does it belong to?

Joe
 

Hello,

I have been offered a crt Tek 154-0235-00, NOS boxed. Can anyone id to which scope it would fit?
Thanks for replies!

Regards, Joe


Re: RSA 3408 A Real time spectrum analyser

 

RSA3408A, actually manufactured in this century, is almost a contemporary instrument (compared to much of what is discussed in this group). Considering that spectrum analyzers seem to retain their value much longer than scopes, I would expect that a reasonable asking price (for a working unit) to be in the same range as the original retail price.

That said, the most recent catalog that I could find was from 2000 and an 8GHz spectrum analyzer (the R3465) cost $32,995 (base model). If we just scale that up for inflation we get $51,580. So I'd guess that the expected price for a used (and working) SA of relatively recent vintage would be at least $5,000-$10,000.

Disclaimer: I'm not very familiar with spectrum analyzers, so I'm not confident that the R3465 is a good analog for the RSA3408A, which has a much lower frequency floor.


Re: My 475

Mark Vincent
 

Rey,

I had a Z problem that was one coax connector that needed to be moved up and down in its socket a few times. I had all other voltages correct, nothing on the screen. After that one coax was moved to make contact, it worked. I move connectors in and out while having 90% IPA on it to help clean the pin and socket. I have seen enough of these look clean yet were not making contact. Of course these are done one at a time so no mistake in where that wire/cable goes.

Checking the main power supply voltages is always the best place to start. Those should be adjusted, if necessary, to the specs. The high voltage can be checked by putting the back of your hand near the hv wire insulation. You will not get shocked this way. The presence of high voltage will make the hairs move. A crackle sound at turn-on is another way to know the voltage is there provided that sound is made. No danger of that sound.

Check the oscillator transistor for the high voltage. With the fuse being good, it could have opened internally. I know this is unlikely but it would confirm that transistor. Another way is to see if you have a-c voltage at the collector of the transistor. If so, you should have the high voltages and heater voltage. You should see about 50-60VAC p-p at the collector.

Jeff is right about tracing the signal until you lose it and possible dirty contact(s).

Mark


RSA 3408 A Real time spectrum analyser

Anil Nediyara
 

I have been offered a Tek RSA 3408A RTSA in reasonably good condition with a years calibration certificate (NABL accredited) I would like to know if any of our members could help me find a realistic price for thd same. I have been receiving astronomical figures from online used gear suppliers.

Thank you
Regards
Anil


Ran in to these on E-bay.

Zentronics42@...
 

I am not the seller but I know these are sought after for those that have the scope that needs them Price seems good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194221438414?hash=item2d387ff5ce:g:4C0AAOSwGtJg26IS

Zen


Re: 7603 P.S. cans, slow warm-up and focus control

Mark Vincent
 

Guys,

I already checked the crt using my 752 tube tester with the settings to a TV B/W crt. It comes up normally and tests fine. I tested other Tek. crts that come up faster. The readings were close in emission and time to come up. I know TV repair very well and miss working on them. Before I posted my question, I already checked things. The only original parts not changed yet are the input filter cans. The line on the screen does have intensity modulation moving from right to left with no signal. When the time base is set a line trigger, the modulation movement stops. That is what makes me suspect the original filter cans are going bad. The electrolytics at and beyond the regulators are new with many higher in capacitance. I already checked the high voltage and Z sections. Those voltages are right.

Why the focus pot burned is that 150V across 50,000 ohms is ,45W dissipation with the control being ,5W. That is 90% of the capacity causing a temperature rise of 225C above ambient. I have had other pots in other scopes and plug-ins for 500 series being run this hard or over the power rating of the controls. I added resistors on each side to reduce the power dissipation. These controls are the horizontal and vertical position controls. I still have enough control range after the addition of resistors to reduce power. The Radiotron Designer's Handbook says resistors not be run in power over 1/2 its power dissipation plus ambient temperature in the calculation. Running a resistor at its power rating causes the resistor to raise 250 deg. C above ambient. By what the book says, ambient plus the dissipation should not be over 125 deg. C. I assume 40-50C ambient in operation leaving a rise of 75-85C. This is a third of the 250C so multiplying the power being dissipated by 3 1/3 gives the power rating of the resistor that should be used. Going to 4x larger gives headroom. If the power at 4x is, say 2.2W, then a 2W is used. An example of a underrated power resistor was in an RCA CTC36/7. The 600ohm 18W under the chassis under the high voltage cage was a known problem. It would burn the wire insulation, become open circuit, burn the red fiberglass terminal strip causing that strip to be replaced. A pair of 1200 ohm 25W in parallel is what I used. Now using a transistor or two with resistors and zeners will drop the voltage (series pass) in these types of places. I have done this in a Zenith 14DC15/16. It works fine. I will restuff the cans soon to complete the restoration. The 15NP22 crt was replaced with new and may have five hours on it now.

Zen, thanks for the note on the two connectors to not switch. I will make sure they are put back right before powering on after the work is done. I still think the cans going bad are the problem that soon will be confirmed when replaced. I want to see if anyone had seen cans going bad in this series causing this problem. Usually when the filters go bad, it is obvious.

Thanks for the replies and advice. I appreciate it.

Mark


Re: My 475

Rey
 

Correct no image on the crt or even using the beam find. But all the other switching(lights) on the face panel work. I'm trying to figure it out, and I love all the input and help from you guys. I been out of the electronics game forever, but I'm smarter than the average bear. The tektronix troubleshooting manual, stated about injecting a - 10-15V for about 10" using the EXT z input, thats my next step. By the way is a pretty cool manual, very clear and step by step still lots of scope lingo but I'll keep at it.


Re: Members in Australia

doyle.paul48
 

G'day John,
You can add me to the Aussie group.
I believe I have been an interested member to the group for at least the
last 20 years.
I cut my teeth on TV Waveform Monitors, and had extensive experience on
tube based displays for the last 5.5 years
I display my wares at all the key amature radio field days in Eastern
Australia pre covid.
Regards
CROTEK.
Sydney Australia.


Re: FTAGH: Free to a good home: 465/475 scopes

Jim Strohm
 

As far as shipping via UPS? ALWAYS insure for something far higher than
cost, declare it as FRAGILE ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT, <whatever it is>, and
have the UPS counter (NOT a UPS storefront) verify the packing. Then if it
gets dropped, the recipient gets his money pack, UPS takes away the
destroyed unit, and you make a big profit.

I lost a historically significant Sun engine scope to UPS once and made
$400 after repaying the seller and eating the shipping. On another note,
my company had a remote site ship a hincky-acting desktop PC pack to us for
repair, and UPS craterd it. However, they took the minimum (free)
valuation of $100, and we received a destroyed $1800 PC. This was back
when white-box PCs were worth something.

And then there was the 4-foot-long slender cardboard box of miniblind
valances that arrived, tied in a pretzel. The common denominator was, as
my father-in-law noted when the valances arrived, was "So your company name
is pronounced 'OOOPS' right?"

Given a chance, UPS can and WILL destroy almost anything fragile, no matter
how well it's packed. It's why those G-force indicator labels were
invented.

73
Jim N6OTQ


Re: 7603 P.S. cans, slow warm-up and focus control

Zentronics42@...
 

One thing to note on the 7603, if you remove the power supply Take LOTS of photos and triple check the connectors before turning the scope on. There are 2 connectors in particular that need attention. I am not in the lab at the moment so I can get the numbers later tonight. but looking from the back of the scope they are left side and up top on the top most board. The is the distribution point for the LV supply and also the test point for the LV voltages. DO NOT get the 2 back to back connectors reversed. The scope will be destroyed. What happens is the 130 V rail gets fed in to most of the IC's in the wrong place frying all of them. If I remember correctly the connectors are tan and black.

Zen

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> On Behalf Of Jean-Paul
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2021 7:27 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7603 P.S. cans, slow warm-up and focus control

Mark: My 7603 is like all other TEK scopes I have, normal warmup time.

Your symptoms sound like old caps in LV and HV PS, also check the Z axis circuit.

WHY did the focus pot burn: A big clew !

Suggest to get a HV probe or VOM DVM adapter, and go thru all voltages in the HV/CRT ckt.

The HV transformers are suspect on some old TEK scopes due to cracking or deteriorating insulation.

Bon Chance

Jon


Re: Members in Australia

Dean Davidson
 

On 6/07/2021 12:51, penguin2004au wrote:
Greetings all:
Just curious to see how many members are Down Under, if only because I might
have to downsize my collection soon.
John,
I am in Armidale NSW.
Now... Where are you???

Dean
VK2DJD


Re: FTAGH: Free to a good home: 465/475 scopes

Jeff Davis
 

Hi all,

It appears that I’ll have no trouble finding homes for all of these scopes. Accordingly, I’m going to revert to my “local pickup only” policy. If we have already discussed shipping, then of course I’ll honor my commitment but it’s local pickup from here on out.

Regarding the below, if I’m shipping a scope to you, it’s your call whether to use Fedex or UPS. I can take the scopes to either place.

Thanks for understanding!

73,
Jeff / N0DY

On Jul 6, 2021, at 10:23 PM, Gordon Smith <gfsmith@cox.net> wrote:

Hi Jeff,
I must most strongly advise you to NOT ship this scope (or any other item that can be broken) via UPS. Having them pack it is fine, but please do not ship via UPS. I and many others have had nothing but bad experiences with them for breakable items. As was recommended to me once, if you are shipping something with UPS please pack assuming that your item will be dropped 12 ft onto a hard concrete floor. And I am not joking. If you really want the scope to make it through the mail, please please ship via Fedex or USPS. That is just my experience, YMMV.

73, Gordon KJ6IKT

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 03:36 PM, Jeff Davis wrote:
Sure, I can do that, no problem. If it makes no difference to you, the UPS
store is somewhat more convenient for me.

Jeff
On Jul 6, 2021, at 3:29 PM, greenboxmaven via groups.io
<ka2ivy=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Would you be willing to take one or two of the scopes to a Fedex store,
they can pack and ship them with no further effort on your part and I can do
all of the payment from my end. Thanks,

Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY



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