Date   

Re: 2465 Blank screen when warm

Mark Vincent
 

David,

Since the trace will come back right at times when you press the beam finder, the switch could be dirty. Clean the switch. That might be the problem. What Jean-Paul says about the freeze mist is also an excellent idea.

Mark


Re: Matching Tek Blue Paint

kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
 

I don't want to sound trite, but the formula that Stan had
from S/W had all that work done, didn't require matching,
playing with flattener, etc. Sherwin Williams put all that
info into the formula. Don't need any catalysts, etc. It's
the simplest fix. Cheapest too.

On 25 May 2021 at 7:12, Keith wrote:

Gee, I thought I solved this TEK color dilemma for you guys once
already. :-)

So, once again, here is a link to the correct TEK color - all ready
to purchase in your preferred professional paint format. That would
be enamel, lacquer, BC/CC urethane, even low VOC urethane for you
California guys and gals. Get it by the quart or by the gallon. TCP
Global has it in their "appliance/Military" catalogue.

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/search?q=tek+blue+-tag%3Aoptions

$109.00 a quart in enamel, $119.00 in single stage catalyzed
urethane, and $159.00 in lacquer, I believe. Of course you still
have to buy thinners/reducers - and catalysts if you go SS or BC/CC.
Also, you'll need a bit of flatting agent as well.

For free, here are Keith the painter's tips and suggestions. Note
that this is not rocket science, but it does require some tools, a
space, and a reasonable amount of skill.

a.) For my money, the lacquer is the best choice for this
application if you want fast dry times, a thin film, good adhesion
and probably overall a more authentic look.
b.) SS urethane is far more durable, but requires more effort and
supplies It can also poison you fairly dramatically, and it will run
the risk of excessive finish film build, too.
c.) The Enamel is just ok, and only if you can control your dust and
(like SS urethane) you don't mind blurring out the factory
alligator/crackle look a little.

Finish thickness matters because the surface you're painting has an
unique texture. As I recall, someone provided excellent information
in another thread about the TEK surface texture process that gives
the gear that unique TEK look. For my money, that's why I would
shoot lacquer as a topcoat. It will be the thinnest finish, and will
not so easily fill in and obliterate the factory crackle look -
something that enamel might do.

SHEEN: Whatever you shoot, remember you will need a little flatting
agent additive, too. TEK gear was not glossy when new. Or, you might
cheat and post-treat it when really cured by washing down with 10%
sodium hydroxide. That would probably take the sheen off without the
cost of flatting agent...or it might ruin it and make you shoot
again. :-/

PREP: Finally, I would make SURE my piece was as clean as possible.
Most people do not understand "clean" as it relates to painting what
amounts to an appliance grade finish.

1. Use an aggressive cleaner and soft bristle brush to really
eliminate the funk that has settled down in that texture pattern -
clean clean clean! This is very important for adhesion and for
pattern preservation. (If your wife will let you and the part will
fit, a dishwasher does a pretty good job at stage 1 cleaning too.)
2. I know this sounds obvious, but you must clean BOTH sides of the
part! The dust and dirt from the backside is very likely to migrate
up and ruin the top side.
3. Again, obvious - but remove mounting screws, Dzus fasterners,
handles, etc.
4. Besides a solvent wash and an aggressive cleaner like Purple to
get rid of grease and funk, I would follow up with a strong caustic
flatting treatment like Sodium Hydroxide or some other adhesion
promoter to take off the sheen off the substrate without damaging
the factory surface pattern.
5. DO NOT SAND THESE PANELS - you will ruin the
alligator/crinkle/leatherette whatever it is called surface pattern.
6. And, besides a clean paint gun or airbrush, you need a clean and
dry air supply, and a clean, dust free shooting area with proper
airflow...and don't forget to tack-cloth right before you shoot.

OK way over the top, but it will look good.

Cheers,

Keith
cbg





Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net


Re: 2465 Blank screen when warm

david
 

I went through the steps on page 281 of service manual. Vertical troubleshooting, Horizontal troubleshooting, and Verified the Control Data and Control Clock Lines. All voltages are close to specs when working correctly, and values are the same when not working. Step 3 in Vertical troubleshooting CH 1 & CH 2 voltage's are 100mV low, checks +600mV and -580mV. Step 4 in Vertical troubleshooting values are high, +13.4V and -13.4V. Low voltage supply values are correct during both conditions, display and no display. Occasionally pressing the beam finder switch will cause display to start working. When the screen goes out, if I turn the intensity control to full clockwise, There is a glow on the entire screen, turning the vertical position control moves it up and down but still covers entire screen with a dim green. I don't have a high voltage probe and don't want to get near the 1900V. Step 5 in Vertical Troubleshooting Hints, Pg. 281 says to check the crt termination resistors, but lists Part no's CR1513 and CR1514, this must be a miss-print . Think it should be LR1513 & LR1514 ?
David


Re: Added lots of Hp/Tek spares plus a new category, AC Power to stuff season + Tek blue paint details

Roy Thistle
 

On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 02:52 PM, kim.herron@sbcglobal.net wrote:


Williamsburg Blue
Hi W8ZV
That's a distinctive "colour" that is a part of the history of your country... that I'm sure most TekScopers aren't interested in... either the socioeconomics of it ... or the paint technology.
Yes that "colour" looks like "Tektronix Blue."
But modern Williamsburg blues have more to do with the paint company's marketing... than any actual faithful attempt at reproducing it... especially with modern paint technology.
--
Roy Thistle


Attenuators 307-1014-00, 01,02,03,04,05

Ondrej Pavelka
 

Hi folks,

Could somebody please tell me what is the significance of the last two digits in the 100x attenuator part number? I know these are revisions but sometimes with Tek parts the parameters remain the same and sometimes such revisions have differences such as bandwidth etc.
I have 475 with bad attenuator and I managed to buy revision 05. Unfortunately as soon as I touched it the "lid" fell off and big flake of dried up lacquer started move inside including the tops of the varicaps so now I have original bad attenuator and new 05 suffix broken attenuator to keep him company. I couldn't find the I believe the original was 03 suffix or later and only found 02.
Is that still suitable full performance spec replacement for 475?

It's otherwise really nice scope, shame about this problem.

Thank you

307-1014-00, 01....5


Re: Tektronix 2246A faint readout

Jon Harrison-Hughes
 

Thanks Jeff,

Yes I'm thinking maybe something around the grid bias. I've taken the CRT out and the power supply together with the tray underneath so that I can get to the solder side of the main pcb. I've desoldered the 8 ZS 1N4936 diodes so far. Although I've removed all of the knobs I haven't managed to free the pcb from the front panel or take the front panel off as I was hoping to be able to do. I have to say it isn't the easiest to work on !

Jon


Re: Persuading a 7S12 to play nice with a 7934.

Jim Ford
 

Hi, Richard.

If you want a working 7S12, I have one for sale (it does have a crack in the Time/Distance crank knob though), along with a 7S11, two S-4 sampling heads, S-51, S-52, two S-53s, and a 012-0124-00 sampling head extender. I'm asking $200 for the whole kit, all working properly, but definitely negotiable.

I'm in Laguna Hills, California, roughly halfway between Los Angeles and San Diego.

Make me an offer!

Jim Ford

------ Original Message ------
From: "Richard Steedman" <richard.steedman@gmail.com>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 5/25/2021 9:25:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Persuading a 7S12 to play nice with a 7934.

I tried replacing the 2N3904 with a 2N2369A and the result was only a marginal improvement. I have updated my notes [here](https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/files/7S12%20in%207934/7S12%20in%207934%20v2.pdf). I think I shall just go with reducing the pullup resistor to 6kΩ.





Re: Matching Tek Blue Paint

Vince Vielhaber
 

If you search the archives for "Tektronix Blue paint" and "Tek Blue Paint" you'll find posts by Reed, Roy, John and Bob that have all the numbers and corrections for the paint. Then under "Tek Blue paint source" you'll find more from Jerry and Paul. One of the message numbers is 169202.

The only reason I'm not posting more info, or the recipes, is I don't know which one is right. I've been saving them off in a general tek folder for a few years. These were from last year, 2017 and 2018.

Vince.

On 05/25/2021 09:37 AM, kim.herron@sbcglobal.net wrote:
Hi Jeff!

I'm pretty sure that the original paint was a lacquer. I say
that because it drys quick and can be fixed without a
complete strip and repaint. That's exactly what
manufacturers look for when they come up with a
process. Sherwin Williams makes all the paint used by
Steelcase on any painted steel furniture that come out of
Grand Rapids MI. They mix it in 55 Gal Drums. You can
get that same Opex Lacquer in a pint can or one spray
can. You just have to get it from Steelcase.

On 24 May 2021 at 14:22, Jeff Dutky wrote:

I'm going to go by a Sherwin Williams store and see what they can
offer me to match the 308 front cover (the most portable sample of
Tek Blue that I have to hand).

What I'd really like is to be able to mix my own in an appropriate
lacquer base, and then apply it with an airbrush, but if I can find
something off-the-shelf that works (as the samples from Behr and
Glidden appear to) I'll be satisfied with that.

I need to do more research on what kinds of paints (as in binder
chemistry) are available, and what would be closest to / most
appropriate to replace the original Tek paint.

-- Jeff Dutky




Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



Re: Challenging 2465 PS repair

satbeginner
 

Sorry,

I forgot to add how I tested the individual boards of the PS, while separated.
At one point he flowchart says to remove comb P232, and later it says to remove combs P233 and P234.

When arrived there, it is now possible to connect the two boards, just using P231 (3 pins) by putting it in from the other side of the board where the grid power enters.
That way the switcher board is better accessible, without great rick of shorts. (always be careful!)

I added pictures of this layout in the album https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=263466

Un saludo,

Leo


Re: Persuading a 7S12 to play nice with a 7934.

Richard Steedman
 

I tried replacing the 2N3904 with a 2N2369A and the result was only a marginal improvement. I have updated my notes here. I think I shall just go with reducing the pullup resistor to 6kΩ.


Re: Challenging 2465 PS repair

satbeginner
 

Hi all,

here a quick update on the PS repair so far....

Broken and replaced are: (upper left corner down to lower right corner)

R1050, Q1021, Q1022, U1030, Q1050, R1052, CR1030, Q1030, R1030,
R1040, R1041, CR1040, C1040, Q1040, C1065, R1065, Q1062, U1062,
U1064, U1066, R1060, R1070, Q1060, Q1070, LR1060.

I followed the Flow-Chart to check the PS, and had to go to all the way to the right hand side of the flowchart to find U1030 actually working.
However, as soon as I go one step back, I only see one very short attempt to generate the 120VDC, and that will repeat itself.
(If this one had neon's they would blink :-).... :-(

After another long search and test I found the following:

Broken and NOT YET replaced...

T1050 :-(

It turns out (pun intended), that the turns between Pin 4 and Pin 5 are open....

So now I need to find a new/replacement transformer, 120-1417-00.

If anyone has a 24XX PS or scope tat has one of these that can be missed, please let me know.

So far the update, to be continued,

Leo


Re: Getting calibration equipment calibrated

Ken Eckert
 

Unfortunately when sending an instrument in for a calibration, if it meets
the tolerances it's passed and gets a sticker. The terminology is As found,
As left if you get data with the cal (which usually costs more)

A calibration cost also depends if you are getting a Z540-1 or a 17025
calibration.

If you want ithe instrument adjusted as close to spec as possible, you will
have to specify that it is to be optimized, not just calibrated. The
military cal lab I worked in we always optimized, but then we were not
charging the customers on time. The civvie lab I worked at, if it does meet
the spec/tolerances it was awarded a cal sticker.

Either way, calibration or optimization, I would personally want the
calibration done with data so I can see what the instrument reads.

Be aware that a lot of cal labs will not do repairs, if it is out of spec
it will come back to you to deal with, along with a charge for the lab's
time.

On Tue, May 25, 2021 at 8:28 AM Martin <musaeum@arcor.de> wrote:

On 24. May 2021, at 18:03, Stephen Hanselman <kc4sw.io@kc4sw.com> wrote:
...Be careful with who you choose for your cal facility, there are a few
good ones and many “Lick and Stick” operations.



Hi Stephan,

thats probably the ones that allow me to recover good units out of our
companies trash bins... :-/

cheers
Martin






Re: Getting calibration equipment calibrated

 

On 24. May 2021, at 18:03, Stephen Hanselman <kc4sw.io@kc4sw.com> wrote:
...Be careful with who you choose for your cal facility, there are a few good ones and many “Lick and Stick” operations.


Hi Stephan,

thats probably the ones that allow me to recover good units out of our companies trash bins... :-/

cheers
Martin


Re: Added lots of Hp/Tek spares plus a new category, AC Power to stuff season + Tek blue paint details

Glydeck
 

Message 169177 has the formula.

https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/message/169177

On May 25, 2021, at 6:32 AM, kim.herron@sbcglobal.net wrote:

IF somebody can find that formula, it should be posted in
the Tekwiki site.
Then ANYBODY could go to a Sherwin Williams store
and get that made up.
With the formula they can make as little as a pint of paint
and load it in spray cans
That would solve the "Where can I get paint for my Tek
scope?" I've used that
paint on 2200 series scope cases and it works JUST
FINE!







On 24 May 2021 at 18:17, Dave Daniel wrote:

Somewhere in the archives is a post that has the particular color
formula for Tektronix paint.

DaveD

On May 24, 2021, at 17:52, kim.herron@sbcglobal.net wrote:
I have some of that paint and it came from Stan Griffiths.
The paint color is Williamsburg Blue. Stan had that
matched to Tek scopes. I'm not sure if the Williamsburg
Blue is a stock Sherwin Williams color. It could be as I'm
sure that Tek probably got the paint from S/W. I had
them match me the three colors for Collins S-Line paint
That was at a local store here in Grand Rapids MI. They
probably don't have the formula any more as they don't
keep custom formulas for a LONG time. If Stan had that
custom matched, S/W had a policy of not releasing the
formula for the mix to anyone but the customer that
had it made up. Maybe that's changed too. But who
knows. The store where he had it made up would be the
best bet on the formula.



On 24 May 2021 at 14:14, walter shawlee wrote:

We have been busy adding lots of support parts, and lowering
the
cost of ones tha thave been sitting a while, . Alos, I had many
requests for more variable AC power supplies and Variacs like
the
custom HP unit we had up last month, so we have added a new
category:

https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/stuffday.html#acpower

I will keep adding items to it as I find them. Let me know if
any
more specific requests,

On the Tek blue paint issue, the stuff I use, which is a
perfect
match for color and luster is marked as follows:
OMNI-PAK
Master Blend
EZ-Touch

the specific blend label says:
OPEX L61 Lacquer
L61XXL42-4383
Tek Blue
05/05/2011 (when I got mine)
Portland Commercial #4383
to reorder (503) 249-0222

I think several of us got paint at the same time some years ago,
this is all the data to get more, assuming they are still in
business.
it is excellent paint, the match is incredible.
shipping, however, is a total nightmare.

all the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.
https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/index.html




Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net







Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net





Re: Matching Tek Blue Paint

Keith
 

Gee, I thought I solved this TEK color dilemma for you guys once already. :-)

So, once again, here is a link to the correct TEK color - all ready to purchase in your preferred professional paint format. That would be enamel, lacquer, BC/CC urethane, even low VOC urethane for you California guys and gals. Get it by the quart or by the gallon. TCP Global has it in their "appliance/Military" catalogue.

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/search?q=tek+blue+-tag%3Aoptions

$109.00 a quart in enamel, $119.00 in single stage catalyzed urethane, and $159.00 in lacquer, I believe. Of course you still have to buy thinners/reducers - and catalysts if you go SS or BC/CC. Also, you'll need a bit of flatting agent as well.

For free, here are Keith the painter's tips and suggestions. Note that this is not rocket science, but it does require some tools, a space, and a reasonable amount of skill.

a.) For my money, the lacquer is the best choice for this application if you want fast dry times, a thin film, good adhesion and probably overall a more authentic look.
b.) SS urethane is far more durable, but requires more effort and supplies. It can also poison you fairly dramatically, and it will run the risk of excessive finish film build, too.
c.) The Enamel is just ok, and only if you can control your dust and (like SS urethane) you don't mind blurring out the factory alligator/crackle look a little.

Finish thickness matters because the surface you're painting has an unique texture. As I recall, someone provided excellent information in another thread about the TEK surface texture process that gives the gear that unique TEK look. For my money, that's why I would shoot lacquer as a topcoat. It will be the thinnest finish, and will not so easily fill in and obliterate the factory crackle look - something that enamel might do.

SHEEN: Whatever you shoot, remember you will need a little flatting agent additive, too. TEK gear was not glossy when new. Or, you might cheat and post-treat it when really cured by washing down with 10% sodium hydroxide. That would probably take the sheen off without the cost of flatting agent...or it might ruin it and make you shoot again. :-/

PREP: Finally, I would make SURE my piece was as clean as possible. Most people do not understand "clean" as it relates to painting what amounts to an appliance grade finish.

1. Use an aggressive cleaner and soft bristle brush to really eliminate the funk that has settled down in that texture pattern - clean clean clean! This is very important for adhesion and for pattern preservation. (If your wife will let you and the part will fit, a dishwasher does a pretty good job at stage 1 cleaning too.)
2. I know this sounds obvious, but you must clean BOTH sides of the part! The dust and dirt from the backside is very likely to migrate up and ruin the top side.
3. Again, obvious - but remove mounting screws, Dzus fasterners, handles, etc.
4. Besides a solvent wash and an aggressive cleaner like Purple to get rid of grease and funk, I would follow up with a strong caustic flatting treatment like Sodium Hydroxide or some other adhesion promoter to take off the sheen off the substrate without damaging the factory surface pattern.
5. DO NOT SAND THESE PANELS - you will ruin the alligator/crinkle/leatherette whatever it is called surface pattern.
6. And, besides a clean paint gun or airbrush, you need a clean and dry air supply, and a clean, dust free shooting area with proper airflow...and don't forget to tack-cloth right before you shoot.

OK way over the top, but it will look good.

Cheers,

Keith
cbg


Re: Matching Tek Blue Paint

kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
 

Hi Jeff!

I'm pretty sure that the original paint was a lacquer. I say
that because it drys quick and can be fixed without a
complete strip and repaint. That's exactly what
manufacturers look for when they come up with a
process. Sherwin Williams makes all the paint used by
Steelcase on any painted steel furniture that come out of
Grand Rapids MI. They mix it in 55 Gal Drums. You can
get that same Opex Lacquer in a pint can or one spray
can. You just have to get it from Steelcase.

On 24 May 2021 at 14:22, Jeff Dutky wrote:

I'm going to go by a Sherwin Williams store and see what they can
offer me to match the 308 front cover (the most portable sample of
Tek Blue that I have to hand).

What I'd really like is to be able to mix my own in an appropriate
lacquer base, and then apply it with an airbrush, but if I can find
something off-the-shelf that works (as the samples from Behr and
Glidden appear to) I'll be satisfied with that.

I need to do more research on what kinds of paints (as in binder
chemistry) are available, and what would be closest to / most
appropriate to replace the original Tek paint.

-- Jeff Dutky




Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net


Re: Added lots of Hp/Tek spares plus a new category, AC Power to stuff season + Tek blue paint details

kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
 

IF somebody can find that formula, it should be posted in
the Tekwiki site.
Then ANYBODY could go to a Sherwin Williams store
and get that made up.
With the formula they can make as little as a pint of paint
and load it in spray cans
That would solve the "Where can I get paint for my Tek
scope?" I've used that
paint on 2200 series scope cases and it works JUST
FINE!







On 24 May 2021 at 18:17, Dave Daniel wrote:

Somewhere in the archives is a post that has the particular color
formula for Tektronix paint.

DaveD

On May 24, 2021, at 17:52, kim.herron@sbcglobal.net wrote:

I have some of that paint and it came from Stan Griffiths.
The paint color is Williamsburg Blue. Stan had that
matched to Tek scopes. I'm not sure if the Williamsburg
Blue is a stock Sherwin Williams color. It could be as I'm
sure that Tek probably got the paint from S/W. I had
them match me the three colors for Collins S-Line paint
That was at a local store here in Grand Rapids MI. They
probably don't have the formula any more as they don't
keep custom formulas for a LONG time. If Stan had that
custom matched, S/W had a policy of not releasing the
formula for the mix to anyone but the customer that
had it made up. Maybe that's changed too. But who
knows. The store where he had it made up would be the
best bet on the formula.



On 24 May 2021 at 14:14, walter shawlee wrote:

We have been busy adding lots of support parts, and lowering
the
cost of ones tha thave been sitting a while, . Alos, I had many
requests for more variable AC power supplies and Variacs like
the
custom HP unit we had up last month, so we have added a new
category:

https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/stuffday.html#acpower

I will keep adding items to it as I find them. Let me know if
any
more specific requests,

On the Tek blue paint issue, the stuff I use, which is a
perfect
match for color and luster is marked as follows:
OMNI-PAK
Master Blend
EZ-Touch

the specific blend label says:
OPEX L61 Lacquer
L61XXL42-4383
Tek Blue
05/05/2011 (when I got mine)
Portland Commercial #4383
to reorder (503) 249-0222

I think several of us got paint at the same time some years ago,
this is all the data to get more, assuming they are still in
business.
it is excellent paint, the match is incredible.
shipping, however, is a total nightmare.

all the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.
https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/index.html




Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net







Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net


Re: Added lots of Hp/Tek spares plus a new category, AC Power to stuff season + Tek blue paint details

kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
 

IF somebody can find that formula, it should be posted in
the Tekwiki site.
Then ANYBODY could go to a Sherwin Williams store
and get that made up.
With the formula they can make as little as a pint of paint
and load it in spray cans
That would solve the "Where can I get paint for my Tek
scope?" I've used that
paint on 2200 series scope cases and it works JUST
FINE!


On 24 May 2021 at 18:17, Dave Daniel wrote:

Somewhere in the archives is a post that has the particular color
formula for Tektronix paint.

DaveD

On May 24, 2021, at 17:52, kim.herron@sbcglobal.net wrote:

I have some of that paint and it came from Stan Griffiths.
The paint color is Williamsburg Blue. Stan had that
matched to Tek scopes. I'm not sure if the Williamsburg
Blue is a stock Sherwin Williams color. It could be as I'm
sure that Tek probably got the paint from S/W. I had
them match me the three colors for Collins S-Line paint
That was at a local store here in Grand Rapids MI. They
probably don't have the formula any more as they don't
keep custom formulas for a LONG time. If Stan had that
custom matched, S/W had a policy of not releasing the
formula for the mix to anyone but the customer that
had it made up. Maybe that's changed too. But who
knows. The store where he had it made up would be the
best bet on the formula.



On 24 May 2021 at 14:14, walter shawlee wrote:

We have been busy adding lots of support parts, and lowering
the
cost of ones tha thave been sitting a while, . Alos, I had many
requests for more variable AC power supplies and Variacs like
the
custom HP unit we had up last month, so we have added a new
category:

https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/stuffday.html#acpower

I will keep adding items to it as I find them. Let me know if
any
more specific requests,

On the Tek blue paint issue, the stuff I use, which is a
perfect
match for color and luster is marked as follows:
OMNI-PAK
Master Blend
EZ-Touch

the specific blend label says:
OPEX L61 Lacquer
L61XXL42-4383
Tek Blue
05/05/2011 (when I got mine)
Portland Commercial #4383
to reorder (503) 249-0222

I think several of us got paint at the same time some years ago,
this is all the data to get more, assuming they are still in
business.
it is excellent paint, the match is incredible.
shipping, however, is a total nightmare.

all the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.
https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/index.html




Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net







Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@sbcglobal.net
1-616-677-3706



--
Kim Herron
W8ZV
kim dot herron at sbcglobal dot net


Re: 7904 vertical/trigger interaction.

Jean-Paul
 

Hello on my 7904, I have never noticed this issue.

After you swap timebases, you can also try to exchange H and V, to aid debugging.

I would check the 7904 serv manual for the trigger selection circuit

Perhaps a hybrid or IC has degraded.

Bon Chance,

Jon


Re: Matching Tek Blue Paint

Jean-Paul
 

Bonjour, Color matching is an art as well as a science. Adobe took many of its top scientists to a week long seminar on color!

The industry standard is Pantone,

https://www.pantone.com/color-finder

A consumer paint store has matching errors depending on the technician, equipment, stock of paint, etc.

Base Material being painted will affect the final dry color.

Perhaps one of our Tek veterans can inform us of the origin of the color?

I wonder if TEK has copyrighted or trademarked this color ?

Bon Chance,

Jon

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