Date   

Re: 577 D2 question(s)

Andy Warner
 

Thanks for the mapping to the 5000 series, did not realize that.

My father-in-law was the TV repair man for a small town in the midwest for
40 years, I am sure we threw out a couple of rejuvenators when we cleared
out his workshop after he died, but that was well before I got into owning
Tek gear - little did I know.

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 11:16 AM Eric <ericsp@gmail.com> wrote:

The 5220 is an old 10Mhz or 20Mhz 5000 frame. I would much rather have a
functional curve tracer then at 20Mhz scope but that is just me.

Eric

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 11:38 AM Paul Amaranth <paul@auroragrp.com> wrote:

Early on, Tek listed the 5000 mainfame and display unit seperately, so
you could get a 5103 frame and a D11 storage display. That doesn't
seem to have lasted very long so it gets very confusing, but the only
difference between a D10 or D11 and the 577 display is the probe
callibration terminal on the front.

One of the big advantages of the 577 over the 576 is the ease of
replacing
the CRT unit if it goes bad. You should be able to find a donor 5000
scope
around $50. Despite the huge screens nobody wants them because of the
low
bandwidth. Heck, you can probably find one free if you want to look hard
enough.

I have an old 5000 scope with a D11 storage display that I want to put
into
my non-storage 577 one of these days.

Go ahead with the full rejuvination, you can't lose much and you might
get
a couple hundred hours out of it. That will give you time while you look
for a 5000 donor.

What's a 5220? I can't find a reference to that.

Paul

On Wed, May 05, 2021 at 11:15:27AM -0400, Eric wrote:
Andy tubes are really available for the 577 d2 they can be salvaged
from
one of the 5000 series scopes. If I remember correctly the 5220 is the
one
you want to find. It is a direct drop in replacement I can confirm the
scope later today of need be.

Eric

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 11:05 AM Andy Warner <andyw@pobox.com> wrote:

Thanks all,
I was hoping it would not be the tube, I have been lucky
enough
to
avoid that on my other Tek gear.
I'll take a pass at the HV board first, but it sounds like I likely
have a
poisoned cathode.

Any reason I should not try a full rejuvenation - including applying
some
current limited HT between cathode and grid, or is there a reason you
suggested just overdriving the heater, Bob ?

From the serial #, my unit has the 154-0633-10 tube, which appears to
be
unobtainium - sigh.

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:33 AM <robeughaas@gmail.com> wrote:

The symptom is known as "double peaking" and indicates the CRT has
cathode
interface, AKA cathode poisoning. The CRT is near the end of its
life.
Applying 12 volts for 10 or 15 minutes to the filament (with the
instrument
power off, since, in operation, the filament is at -3400 volts),
may
effect
a temporary repair. Access to the filament is easy via a two-pin
connector
on the HV/deflection board.

--
Bob Haas





--
Andy










!DSPAM:6092b6ab251027023613042!
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@AuroraGrp.Com | Unix/Linux - We don't do windows









--
Andy


Re: 577 D2 question(s)

Eric
 

The 5220 is an old 10Mhz or 20Mhz 5000 frame. I would much rather have a
functional curve tracer then at 20Mhz scope but that is just me.

Eric

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 11:38 AM Paul Amaranth <paul@auroragrp.com> wrote:

Early on, Tek listed the 5000 mainfame and display unit seperately, so
you could get a 5103 frame and a D11 storage display. That doesn't
seem to have lasted very long so it gets very confusing, but the only
difference between a D10 or D11 and the 577 display is the probe
callibration terminal on the front.

One of the big advantages of the 577 over the 576 is the ease of replacing
the CRT unit if it goes bad. You should be able to find a donor 5000 scope
around $50. Despite the huge screens nobody wants them because of the low
bandwidth. Heck, you can probably find one free if you want to look hard
enough.

I have an old 5000 scope with a D11 storage display that I want to put into
my non-storage 577 one of these days.

Go ahead with the full rejuvination, you can't lose much and you might get
a couple hundred hours out of it. That will give you time while you look
for a 5000 donor.

What's a 5220? I can't find a reference to that.

Paul

On Wed, May 05, 2021 at 11:15:27AM -0400, Eric wrote:
Andy tubes are really available for the 577 d2 they can be salvaged from
one of the 5000 series scopes. If I remember correctly the 5220 is the
one
you want to find. It is a direct drop in replacement I can confirm the
scope later today of need be.

Eric

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 11:05 AM Andy Warner <andyw@pobox.com> wrote:

Thanks all,
I was hoping it would not be the tube, I have been lucky enough
to
avoid that on my other Tek gear.
I'll take a pass at the HV board first, but it sounds like I likely
have a
poisoned cathode.

Any reason I should not try a full rejuvenation - including applying
some
current limited HT between cathode and grid, or is there a reason you
suggested just overdriving the heater, Bob ?

From the serial #, my unit has the 154-0633-10 tube, which appears to
be
unobtainium - sigh.

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:33 AM <robeughaas@gmail.com> wrote:

The symptom is known as "double peaking" and indicates the CRT has
cathode
interface, AKA cathode poisoning. The CRT is near the end of its
life.
Applying 12 volts for 10 or 15 minutes to the filament (with the
instrument
power off, since, in operation, the filament is at -3400 volts), may
effect
a temporary repair. Access to the filament is easy via a two-pin
connector
on the HV/deflection board.

--
Bob Haas





--
Andy










!DSPAM:6092b6ab251027023613042!
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@AuroraGrp.Com | Unix/Linux - We don't do windows






Re: Free: Tektronix manuals and catalogues

-
 

Nice STASH!

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 12:04 PM Ken Eckert <eckertkp@gmail.com> wrote:

I have some Tektronix manuals and catalogues that are free, you pay the
shipping. They are in good condition with the exception of some comb
binding on a few being brittle.

If someone wants them all that is fine. What isn't gone by week 3 of May
has to unfortunately be recycled, I have run out of room.

I have already let Tek Wiki have what fills some holes in their library.

I am in British Columbia, Canada

Catalogues

90,89,94,93,00,96,88,86,85,84,83,82,81,80,79,76,75,74,70,63/64

Manuals

Box 3

212 B200000 up
7B85
670A-1
7612D service
466

Box 4

7603
422
670-1
7B90P
650
465B service
7704
650HR
2465 service

Box 1

FG502
7D14
690SR
7B92A
7S11
7D13
7623A service
TSG90
7704 service
834
611
468 service Vol 2
624
603A
2445/2465 OPT 01
2445/2465 OPT 10
2445/2465 OPT 06/09
DM5010

Box 2

7T11A
T932/T935
7904 service
7B70
7A13
7A14
7A29
7B10
DC503
TM504
620
608
7B15
7B92A
606
7B70
7A16
7A11
7A26
7B71
607
833
606B
7L5 service







Re: Novice X-Y Problem 2265

Wayne
 

Hi,
I've been away from anything RF for almost 50 years, but I have both 2245A and 2247A scopes and have used the X-Y functions a little bit. I am very well old enough to be rusty at using something I haven't used in a long time, so I fully get where you are coming from.

I am confused by your statement about triggering on chan 3--if you are in XY mode, the scope's sweep generator is turned off and horizontal deflection is provided by the chan 1 input, so triggering is irrelevant--there is nothing to trigger.

Vertical deflection is provided by either chan 2, 3, or 4--I use chan 2 as you did because it has full functionality.

Turn off all of the chan 1-4 pushbuttons above the vertical attenuators--all lights in that row off. Ground the inputs of both chan 1 and chan 2 (both coupling selector lights off), and adjust intensity, chan 1 position, and horiz position for a dot in the center of the screen. Be sure to keep the intensity down so as not to burn your tube. Next, connect your X signal to the chan 1 input and choose AC coupling. Do not push the vertical button for chan1 as you would if making a voltage measurement. Adjust the chan 1 attenuator as necessary to get a horizontal line in the center of the screen. Again, it is important NOT to push the button to turn on channel 1 vertical--chan 1 is going to be your "horizontal sweep". Now connect your second (Y/vertical) signal to the chan 2 input, select AC coupling, and push the CHAN 2 button above the attenuators. Adjust the chan 2 attenuator as necessary. You should now see your X-Y display. Hope this helps!


Free: Tektronix manuals and catalogues

Ken Eckert
 

I have some Tektronix manuals and catalogues that are free, you pay the shipping. They are in good condition with the exception of some comb binding on a few being brittle.

If someone wants them all that is fine. What isn't gone by week 3 of May has to unfortunately be recycled, I have run out of room.

I have already let Tek Wiki have what fills some holes in their library.

I am in British Columbia, Canada

Catalogues

90,89,94,93,00,96,88,86,85,84,83,82,81,80,79,76,75,74,70,63/64

Manuals

Box 3

212 B200000 up
7B85
670A-1
7612D service
466

Box 4

7603
422
670-1
7B90P
650
465B service
7704
650HR
2465 service

Box 1

FG502
7D14
690SR
7B92A
7S11
7D13
7623A service
TSG90
7704 service
834
611
468 service Vol 2
624
603A
2445/2465 OPT 01
2445/2465 OPT 10
2445/2465 OPT 06/09
DM5010

Box 2

7T11A
T932/T935
7904 service
7B70
7A13
7A14
7A29
7B10
DC503
TM504
620
608
7B15
7B92A
606
7B70
7A16
7A11
7A26
7B71
607
833
606B
7L5 service


Re: 577 D2 question(s)

ChuckA
 

I've had good luck using a Sencore CR-70 restoring  a TDS-648A and a HP3562A CRT, both were so dim as not usable.

Running the filament about 40%-50% higher for a time was a old method to sometimes make a dim picture tube in early TV's come back to life for a short time. TV brighteners were common in late 40's and early 50's to extend the life of a TV, they had a small autotransformer and ran the filament at around 8V.

Chuck

On 5/5/2021 11:05 AM, Andy Warner wrote:
Thanks all,
I was hoping it would not be the tube, I have been lucky enough to
avoid that on my other Tek gear.
I'll take a pass at the HV board first, but it sounds like I likely have a
poisoned cathode.

Any reason I should not try a full rejuvenation - including applying some
current limited HT between cathode and grid, or is there a reason you
suggested just overdriving the heater, Bob ?

From the serial #, my unit has the 154-0633-10 tube, which appears to be
unobtainium - sigh.

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:33 AM <robeughaas@gmail.com> wrote:

The symptom is known as "double peaking" and indicates the CRT has cathode
interface, AKA cathode poisoning. The CRT is near the end of its life.
Applying 12 volts for 10 or 15 minutes to the filament (with the instrument
power off, since, in operation, the filament is at -3400 volts), may effect
a temporary repair. Access to the filament is easy via a two-pin connector
on the HV/deflection board.

--
Bob Haas





--
See Early TV at:

www.myvintagetv.com


Re: 577 D2 question(s)

Paul Amaranth
 

Early on, Tek listed the 5000 mainfame and display unit seperately, so
you could get a 5103 frame and a D11 storage display. That doesn't
seem to have lasted very long so it gets very confusing, but the only
difference between a D10 or D11 and the 577 display is the probe
callibration terminal on the front.

One of the big advantages of the 577 over the 576 is the ease of replacing
the CRT unit if it goes bad. You should be able to find a donor 5000 scope
around $50. Despite the huge screens nobody wants them because of the low
bandwidth. Heck, you can probably find one free if you want to look hard
enough.

I have an old 5000 scope with a D11 storage display that I want to put into
my non-storage 577 one of these days.

Go ahead with the full rejuvination, you can't lose much and you might get
a couple hundred hours out of it. That will give you time while you look
for a 5000 donor.

What's a 5220? I can't find a reference to that.

Paul

On Wed, May 05, 2021 at 11:15:27AM -0400, Eric wrote:
Andy tubes are really available for the 577 d2 they can be salvaged from
one of the 5000 series scopes. If I remember correctly the 5220 is the one
you want to find. It is a direct drop in replacement I can confirm the
scope later today of need be.

Eric

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 11:05 AM Andy Warner <andyw@pobox.com> wrote:

Thanks all,
I was hoping it would not be the tube, I have been lucky enough to
avoid that on my other Tek gear.
I'll take a pass at the HV board first, but it sounds like I likely have a
poisoned cathode.

Any reason I should not try a full rejuvenation - including applying some
current limited HT between cathode and grid, or is there a reason you
suggested just overdriving the heater, Bob ?

From the serial #, my unit has the 154-0633-10 tube, which appears to be
unobtainium - sigh.

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:33 AM <robeughaas@gmail.com> wrote:

The symptom is known as "double peaking" and indicates the CRT has
cathode
interface, AKA cathode poisoning. The CRT is near the end of its life.
Applying 12 volts for 10 or 15 minutes to the filament (with the
instrument
power off, since, in operation, the filament is at -3400 volts), may
effect
a temporary repair. Access to the filament is easy via a two-pin
connector
on the HV/deflection board.

--
Bob Haas





--
Andy










!DSPAM:6092b6ab251027023613042!
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@AuroraGrp.Com | Unix/Linux - We don't do windows


Re: Buying Tek equipment on eBay or on Swap meets

-
 

I don't know about FedEx or UPS but the local electronics companies near
me all use the foam in place machines and they are very effective at
preventing damage to electronic equipment. I'm surprised that UPS and Fedex
don't use those. That would be something that the shipper really needs to
check on before paying FedEx, UPS or anyone else to package an item. OTOH
not even foam in place is going to prevent damage if UPS drives a forklift
fork through the box, or prevent breaking the neck of a CRT if a careless
handler drops the package from several feet in the air.

My strong opinion is that if you want to buy these big heavy old scopes,
then you need to be willing to drive and pick them up in person, regardless
of the distance.

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 11:16 AM Michael W. Lynch via groups.io <mlynch003=
yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 09:35 AM, - wrote:


you could have the seller
drop the bare item off at UPS or FedEx and, for a fee, they will pack it
and ship it to you. Beware the fee though! The last time that I did that,
UPS charged me $100 just to box up a HP 9826 computer and that was at
least
20 years ago! If you're going to have equipment sent to you, you might
also consider getting some very well built boxes and sturdy foam that the
TE will fit into and then ship the box and the packaging to the seller so
that they can pack the TE into it and then return it to you.
Good suggestions for finding equipment.

On the other hand, Having Fed Ex or UPS "pack" any CRT scope is a real
risk of total destruction. Many such stores are clueless about how to pack
a heavy and fragile scope. If they do it right, it is going to cost a
fortune. I recently had a 475 shipped to me for repair. It was packed by
those "experts". The scope had two layers of bubble wrap and a few scoops
of packing peanuts, that is it. The owner said that they charged him $40
to "pack" the scope. The scope was actually sliding around in the box as
you moved it. The only thing that saved the knobs was the fact that they
left the handle up so the handle stopped the knobs from hitting the end of
the box. Miracle was that the scope was not otherwise damaged.

I would agree that you would be better off sending a proper box, packing
materials and instructions for the seller to use to ship the instrument.


--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR






Re: Buying Tek equipment on eBay or on Swap meets

Michael W. Lynch
 

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 09:35 AM, - wrote:


you could have the seller
drop the bare item off at UPS or FedEx and, for a fee, they will pack it
and ship it to you. Beware the fee though! The last time that I did that,
UPS charged me $100 just to box up a HP 9826 computer and that was at least
20 years ago! If you're going to have equipment sent to you, you might
also consider getting some very well built boxes and sturdy foam that the
TE will fit into and then ship the box and the packaging to the seller so
that they can pack the TE into it and then return it to you.
Good suggestions for finding equipment.

On the other hand, Having Fed Ex or UPS "pack" any CRT scope is a real risk of total destruction. Many such stores are clueless about how to pack a heavy and fragile scope. If they do it right, it is going to cost a fortune. I recently had a 475 shipped to me for repair. It was packed by those "experts". The scope had two layers of bubble wrap and a few scoops of packing peanuts, that is it. The owner said that they charged him $40 to "pack" the scope. The scope was actually sliding around in the box as you moved it. The only thing that saved the knobs was the fact that they left the handle up so the handle stopped the knobs from hitting the end of the box. Miracle was that the scope was not otherwise damaged.

I would agree that you would be better off sending a proper box, packing materials and instructions for the seller to use to ship the instrument.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR


Re: 577 D2 question(s)

Eric
 

Andy tubes are really available for the 577 d2 they can be salvaged from
one of the 5000 series scopes. If I remember correctly the 5220 is the one
you want to find. It is a direct drop in replacement I can confirm the
scope later today of need be.

Eric

On Wed, May 5, 2021, 11:05 AM Andy Warner <andyw@pobox.com> wrote:

Thanks all,
I was hoping it would not be the tube, I have been lucky enough to
avoid that on my other Tek gear.
I'll take a pass at the HV board first, but it sounds like I likely have a
poisoned cathode.

Any reason I should not try a full rejuvenation - including applying some
current limited HT between cathode and grid, or is there a reason you
suggested just overdriving the heater, Bob ?

From the serial #, my unit has the 154-0633-10 tube, which appears to be
unobtainium - sigh.

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:33 AM <robeughaas@gmail.com> wrote:

The symptom is known as "double peaking" and indicates the CRT has
cathode
interface, AKA cathode poisoning. The CRT is near the end of its life.
Applying 12 volts for 10 or 15 minutes to the filament (with the
instrument
power off, since, in operation, the filament is at -3400 volts), may
effect
a temporary repair. Access to the filament is easy via a two-pin
connector
on the HV/deflection board.

--
Bob Haas





--
Andy






Re: 577 D2 question(s)

Andy Warner
 

Thanks all,
I was hoping it would not be the tube, I have been lucky enough to
avoid that on my other Tek gear.
I'll take a pass at the HV board first, but it sounds like I likely have a
poisoned cathode.

Any reason I should not try a full rejuvenation - including applying some
current limited HT between cathode and grid, or is there a reason you
suggested just overdriving the heater, Bob ?

From the serial #, my unit has the 154-0633-10 tube, which appears to be
unobtainium - sigh.

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 10:33 AM <robeughaas@gmail.com> wrote:

The symptom is known as "double peaking" and indicates the CRT has cathode
interface, AKA cathode poisoning. The CRT is near the end of its life.
Applying 12 volts for 10 or 15 minutes to the filament (with the instrument
power off, since, in operation, the filament is at -3400 volts), may effect
a temporary repair. Access to the filament is easy via a two-pin connector
on the HV/deflection board.

--
Bob Haas





--
Andy


Re: Plastic Part for a 3L5

Michael W. Lynch
 

Post a picture, If it is like the ones that Dave is describing from the 7B53, it would be a simple task to turn out the part from nylon on a lathe. if supplied the dimensions and pictures, I could probably make one from nyl0n stock or model one and 3D print it. I looked in the TEK "Mechanical parts" catalog, but did not see this part listed along with the other shaft couplings.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR


Searching for 2247A Front Foot

Wayne
 

I recently acquired a just-like-new 2247A from a friend that was a long-time Tek employee. It has had very little use, and you cannot tell it from a new one fresh out of the box except for one missing part. The only flaw in the entire scope, cosmetically or functionally, is one of the black polyurethane front feet is missing, 348-0659-00. As far as I have found so far, this part number was used only on the 2245A and 2247A The 2246 parts list shows the foot, but no part number, and the description says "Not replaceable at this time". The part was made by a company called Triquest according to the Tek manual, but a web search indicates they must be out of business.

The "further-down-the-line" 22xx scopes I looked at use a different part number. Wondering if anyone has a 2245A or 2247A parts mule that might be willing to sell me a foot to put this beautiful machine back into absolutely pristine condition.

Thank you!
Wayne


Re: Buying Tek equipment on eBay or on Swap meets

-
 

I'm on the opposite side of the country but don't you have some sea ports
there and a navy base? (Also large airports and/or universities) If so then
I can guarantee that there are a lot of civilian companies near them that
support them and that have very sophisticated TE and that also frequently
discard their old equipment for newer models. Seek out those companies,
see if they have surplus disposal auctions and also see if they just send a
lot of the TE and other electronics to electronic disposal companies for
recycling. Seek out those disposal companies see if they will sell any of
the "scrap" to you. It's not like shopping at Sears where you can go in
and pick the exact model that you want, it's more like digging for car
parts in an automotive junk yard, but can guarantee that you will find and
then *want* things that you never imagined! You have to persistent and
probably have to visit them over and over and over so be friendly to them
and *respect* their property and equipment and don't leave a mess behind or
they won't let you return. They never know what is coming in in advance so
you need to visit them over and over again, so I said, stay on GOOD terms
with them.

IMO shopping on Ebay is for people that are too LAZY to go out and look
for the items that they want. It's more convenient and you won't have to
get your hands dirty but it is expensive. OTOH when you start getting into
really specialized TE such as HP 3458 meters, then you're probably not
going to find one locally and you may have to resort to E-Greed. But hang
onto your wallet if you do!

Also have you tried placing WANT ads on Craigslist, Facebbook
Marketplace or in the newspapers not only in your town but everywhere
within driving distance? Years ago, even before E-bay, a friend of mine
installed an incoming 1-8oo number on his phone line. Then, even though he
lived several states away, he placed I-want-to-buy-HP want ads in all of
the newspapers surrounding several of HPs biggest US manufacturing plants.
He had hundreds and hundreds of calls from people who had worked at HP, or
one of their family members had, and they all had HP items that wanted to
sell. He had an account with UPS at the time so he would buy their items
and have them drop them at UPS and UPS would send them to him. The key to
his operation was to make it as simple and as easy and as cheap as possible
for the sellers to sell and send their stuff to him. No E-bay, no PayPal,
no (then very expensive) long distance phone calls. Just call his 800
number, tell him what you had and if you made a deal, then drop the item at
UPS and he would send you a check or money order. If you're willing to
drive and pick up the item in person, then I think that this approach would
be extremely effective for buying from people that have old big heavy TE
that they don't want to test or have to box up and ship. IMO you would be
MUCH better off picking scopes up in person since you could be sure that
they didn't get damaged in shipping and avoid the expensive packing and
shipping fees. Buf it that is impossible, then you could have the seller
drop the bare item off at UPS or FedEx and, for a fee, they will pack it
and ship it to you. Beware the fee though! The last time that I did that,
UPS charged me $100 just to box up a HP 9826 computer and that was at least
20 years ago! If you're going to have equipment sent to you, you might
also consider getting some very well built boxes and sturdy foam that the
TE will fit into and then ship the box and the packaging to the seller so
that they can pack the TE into it and then return it to you.

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 8:54 AM Lawrance A. Schneider <
llaassllaaass@gmail.com> wrote:

I live in the willy-wags of Maine. About the only way go getting anything
is ebay or CraigsList. If someone else lives in Maine, I'd like to know
how they (you) get anything without resorting to the above.

Thanks, larry






Re: Buying Tek equipment on eBay or on Swap meets

Oz-in-DFW
 

It's pretty clear that eBay has had a significant impact. The volume of stuff sold there is so great, it can't *not* have had an impact. Dayton nee' Xenia is a good example. Before eBay it had several folks selling recent vintage HP and Tek. With the advent of eBay that dwindled to nothing over less than five year. I still see stuff at the local fests, but the nature of the content is now largely floor sweepings.

There are certainly other significant effects - the aging of the ham radio hobby, liability and venue cost, etc. but eBay is a major factor.

--
Oz (in DFW) N1OZ


Re: Upcoming changes to our PayPal legal agreements

-
 

Do you mean that Tek *isn't* a division of PayPal??

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 8:20 AM Rick <rpbale@gmail.com> wrote:

I didn't Paypal was a division of Tek






Re: Tektronix Probe Replacement Parts and Accessories

Lawrance A. Schneider
 

On Tue, May 4, 2021 at 11:00 AM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:


I created this list because I have a lot of probes. Since I have all of the
7000 and 5000 series plugins as well as many TM500/TM5000 plugins all these
probes are necessary to use the plugins.
If COVID ever ends and I ever make it out of Maine and to the opposite side of the USA, I hope to somehow see your collection. It would be the fulfillment of a boyhood dream; I can't remember the first 'tekscope' I ever saw, but I'll bet I drooled. I would hope that were the 'fulfillment' to come to pass, I would not drool.

Good for you Dennis, larry


Re: Buying Tek equipment on eBay or on Swap meets

Lawrance A. Schneider
 

I live in the willy-wags of Maine. About the only way go getting anything is ebay or CraigsList. If someone else lives in Maine, I'd like to know how they (you) get anything without resorting to the above.

Thanks, larry


Re: Upcoming changes to our PayPal legal agreements

Rick
 

I didn't Paypal was a division of Tek


Novice X-Y Problem 2265

Alan Young <agyoung@...>
 

Hello all,
I am trying to use a 2246 for monitoring a two tone input in ch1 and 2 to look at the beat pattern of a transmitter.
When in X-Y mode I don’t see anything. If I push the beam finder I see the two dots all the way to the left and have superimposed them. The test setup is a demodulation signal from the tap to X and the Y is the RF sampler out. The device has a trigger port for triggering, using ch 3 for the trigger. When the transmitter is keyed and beam finder pushed in I can see vertical deviations of the demod signal but no movement in time. Without pushing in the beam finder I see nothing. I haven’t used a scope in 40 years, last one used was a 465.
Any thoughts would be helpful, and thanks in advance.

Alan
N5AGY

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