File /Tektronix Probe Replacement Parts and Accessories.pdf uploaded #file-notice Notification <noreply@...>

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the group.

By: Dennis Tillman W7pF <dennis@...>

Pictures and part numbers for all the parts and accessories of the 5 mm (Miniature), 3.5 mm (Compact), and 2.5 mm (Subminiature) probes. In addition, it lists the replacement part numbers of the parts in the other active and passive probes.

Tektronix Probe Replacement Parts and Accessories


I assembled together a PDF for the Probe Replacement Parts and Accessories
for most of the Tek Probes.
It has pictures and part numbers for all the parts and accessories of the 5
mm (Miniature), 3.5 mm (Compact), and 2.5 mm (Subminiature) probes.
In addition, it lists the replacement part numbers of the parts in the other
active and passive probes.

I didn't search through every catalog from the 1950s to the present day so
it does not include every probe, but it should cover 85% to 90% of the Tek
probes in common use today.

It is located in the Files section of the TekScopes archive at:

Dennis Tillman W7pF

Re: OT! OT! --- E-bay fee change -- OT! OT! Cross posted with HP group.


Hi Daniel et al,
It always surprises me that people are so easily outraged by changes like this one that eBay has in the works. eBay Inc. is a publically traded company beholden to its stockholders, not to you or me. Their management has to constantly balance the needs of their stockholders, sellers, and buyers while insuring they don't violate the laws and customs of every country they do business in. I don't envy them. Any change they make is bound to anger some of their constituents.

We all have the ultimate power to determine if this was a good or bad decision on their part by what we do next. It is simple: Stop using them if you don't like this new policy.

I became a member 21 years ago, just 4 years after they started. In my time as a member I can easily see how it evolved. I welcomed some things they did, and I was dismayed by other things. I do not expect it to be the same as it was back then and neither should you. I still find it extremely useful, although not for what I was using it for back then.

As they evolve so do I. I have had to accommodate their ever changing rules and requirements so I can continue to take advantage of the amazing marketplace they have created for exchanging goods. In the 25 years since they were founded near the East Bay in San Francisco they have revolutionized buying and selling. I'm certain of one thing: eBay will continue to evolve and stockholders, buyers, and sellers will continue to complain about it until they vote with their feet.

It sounds like some of you feel entitled to be treated a certain way by eBay and you are angry that you have made an incorrect assumption. Welcome to the club. I was angry when I moved out on my own and my mom didn't come over to my apartment to vacuum, do my laundry, and continue cooking for me. Eventually I got over it, I hope you do too. eBay still has plenty to offer if you know what to look for and how to find bargains.

I appreciate the members who are offering suggestions on how to accommodate the latest change coming from eBay. The alternative, complaining about the changes, doesn't help. eBay does care about you (in the big sense) but they have hundreds of millions of stockholders, sellers, and buyers to also care about. When you realize how insignificant you are it might help you to understand that complaining is a waste of time. Your choice is to evolve with eBay or vote with your feet by leaving.

Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of Daniel Koller via
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2021 11:26 AM

Hi folks, this is OFF TOPIC because it's about e-bay, but on the other hand, with the exception of my older gear, it's just about the only way I get *any* Tek or HP gear these days. So, with apologies if it drags on too long and in the wrong direction,....
I got a message from e-bay that explains they are changing their payment structure. According to that, sellers will need to directly link a bank account to e-bay so that they can receive payments directly from buyers. By May 21, if you do not link a bank account to e-bay, they will not allow new postings! So, the implication is that Paypal is no longer going to work. I don't know about folks here, but I suspect, like me, they are a bit older, financially conservative, and are loathe to link a personal bank account to e-bay. To this day I do not have my paypal account "linked" to my bank account. I can have all my on-line accounts hacked, but none of them have any access to my bank account.

Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

Re: 7A16A with an unknown modification MOD515D


No, nothing labeled like that. I'm sure it's just a mistake in the parts list.

Re: CRT's


Hi Bill,
Wrong Bill. It came from Bill Higdon, not you.

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of Bill Riches via
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2021 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] CRT's

To All - I did not post that link. Dont know where that came from. i have not posted anythin to this list for a few months.
On Wednesday, April 28, 2021, 07:57:25 PM EDT, Dennis Tillman W7pF <> wrote:

Hi Bill,
If you are going to post a suspicious link please be sure to say what it is for.
I can confirm (for Bill) that it is not suspicious after I checked it out.
It is a box of CRTs in the Portland area. At least one or two of them look like TV CRTs. The others are hard to tell. They appear to be old.
Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: [] On Behalf Of Bill Higdon via
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2021 12:40 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] CRT's

Say this earlier

Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

TDS 380 Attenuator Resistor Replacement Specs

Richard Peterson

Hi Folks. New member, first post . . . I recently picked up a couple of new to me Tektronix scopes to replace my Hitachi V212. The 2236 is up an running beautifully after some cleaning, but the TDS380 has a (hopefully) small issue: No input on CH1. I've traced the problem down to what looks like a burned 50 ohm thick film resistor on the input of the attenuator board between the BNC and one of the capacitors on the board. (not quite sure how to post photos here yet but hopefully this link works:,,,20,2,0,0)

I'm thinking I can simply solder a 50 ohm resistor between the BNC connector and the SMD capacitor that the original resistor links (the larger capacitor at the end of the first relay in the photo) . Any thoughts about doing this and what power rating the resistor should be?



Re: OT! OT! --- E-bay fee change -- OT! OT! Cross posted with HP group.


Amazon in Europe has the ability to link your account as the only
payment method, and it works perfectly well for variable,
non-recurring payments of all sorts of amounts.

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 9:02 AM Szabolcs Szigeti
<> wrote:


Interesting, that is definitely not going to work in a lot of places
outside the US. At least here, for example (Hungary, but I think true for
most of Europe) it is virtually impossible to pull money off an account
without explicit authorization. You can set up recurring variable amount
payments, like utilities bill, etc., but those can have limits and other
controls. There isn't any easy way for someone to just get money out of an
account without the approval of the owner. So I don't think this would be
the purpose for eBay.
As far as I know, with PayPal you only have to link an account if you are
selling and want to take the money out. At least I have never linked
anything to my PP account (other than a credit card (a virtual one, with
hard limits) and I was still able to buy and sell. I just used the amount
from the sale to buy other stuff (a lot of Tek stuff, to stay on topic),
never removed it from my PP account.


Harvey White <> ezt írta (időpont: 2021. ápr. 28.,
Sze, 21:51):

One thing to note is that credit cards may be easily disputed, thus not
guaranteeing EBAY their money immediately. Bank accounts may be harder
to dispute and more difficult to correct.

Note: in the US, debit cards, while they are convenient in maintaining
control over an account balance, do not have (or have not had) the legal
protections that credit cards do. May be the same with a bank withdraw.


On 4/28/2021 2:21 PM, Martin wrote:
Hi Dave,

OK, I don't actually know Paypal, never subscribed to it as I have
learned about all these experiences before.

Still I do not understand why Ebay needs any agreement at all with their
new payment methods.
They already could dip into my account via the credit card, so what else
do they need?


Re: OT! OT! --- E-bay fee change -- OT! OT! Cross posted with HP group.

Heinz Breuer

I guess it is different in every country. In Germany you can order your bank within 6 weeks to cancel any direct debit.
vy 73 Heinz DH2FA, KM5VT

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Re: OT! OT! --- E-bay fee change -- OT! OT! Cross posted with HP group.


Hi Jeff,

On 28. Apr 2021, at 22:28, Jeff Dutky <> wrote:
There may also be a difference in the transaction fees that eBay needs to pay...
thats the most likely explanation I heard so far as to why they want to stop going via a credit card. The credit card company charge for their services... So for Ebay this is essentially a move to save money.

But also, as has Harvey pointed out, you can dispute the amount taken on your credit card and then Ebay would have to prove something. Thats also a cost factor, but authorising Ebay to withdraw whatever sum they like from my bank account is going too far IMHO. I had my phone provider authorised many years ago, when one day they charged 10x too much due to some mistake in their accounting system. Although they did correct it quickly, for me that was the trigger to ban all services from my account where the amount is not fixed.

I wonder why banks don't offer something like a pre-authorization, where you authorise once but get a message you have to confirm before the transfer is actually carried out. That way it would still be quite comfortable as you do not have to remember, but you can withhold the transfer if deemed incorrect.


Re: Recapping Tektronix 2465


I received the material from Mouser, for those interested I report the list of what I found available and I ordered:

More or less everything corresponds to what was found on this group, except the 7 ohm NTC, I found one that should be fine with code 995-SL157R005-L. However I did not use it because the 2 original NTCs measured with the ohmmeter, report the correct resistance.

For those like me who are not familiar with the Mouser catalog, I think I can say that, for example, the codes 647-UHE1E101MED, 647-UHE1E101MED1TA, 647-UHE1E101MED1TD correspond to the same component but in bulk, or taped etc.

I started working with the A2-A3 boards and I have some questions, if anyone would like to answer:

- I found R1016 swollen, then unsoldering it broke, what to replace it with? A common metal or ceramic film?

- I followed the method of searching for the shielded outer end of non-polarized capacitors with the oscilloscope but for several specimens I don't get any difference, or uncertain differences by inverting the connections on the pins. Yet the test clearly works by trying some old capacitors found in my drawers. Does this mean an error on my part, or that for those components the direction of insertion is indifferent?

- Still speaking of non-polarized capacitors, in the wiring diagram does the shielded outer end correspond to the curved line of the capacitor symbol?

Thank you for any information already received and in the future and I apologize for any errors but I'm using google translate....


Tek DSA8200 help wanted


I have a Tek DSA8200 w/ 2 TDR modules. It was retired from service qualifying HDMI cables. The HDMI standards changed and now you need a 4 port VNA to test HDMI cables. In any case when I contacted Tek about getting the 80SJNB package they told me it was obsolete and I needed to get a DSA8300. The software would not work on the DSA8200 any more??? Once they figured out there was no unlimited checkbook at hand they moved on.

At this point I would like to explore how to get the 80SJNB software package on this unit if its possible. Anyone with experiece dealing with this could probably give me some insights. Also about the Iconnect package which again was not available. How does software become no longer made??? To be sure I'm not ready to spend $$$ to get this all running on my obsolete hardware.

Any advice? Or maybe I'll just sell it.

Re: 465M


Here is an update:
I checked the tube socket and it is clean as a whistle! The U550 in this scope failed a while back in that, the tripler section started blowing the fuse. Since this is not available anymore, I created my own U550. I did it in a way that the tripler is removable from the rest of it. That contraption of mine worked for almost a year or more till it blew the fuse last week. It only blows if the anode is connected. Assuming that my tripler has gone bad, for whatever it is worth, I rigged another 3 diode/3 cap tripler and made sure the 10kV is there and then connected the anode. The fuse blew again. It tells me that my original tripler is still good. The next thing was to make sure the rest of the U550 is not gone bad. So, I hooked up the original TEK U550 (without the EHT connection) and hooked up the external tripler. Again the 10kV is good but no sooner the anode is plugged in, the fuse blows. This made me think the tube might have gone bad and is drawing too much current. Luckily for me, I have another spare tube. So, I hooked that up. Well, it is the same result! So, now I am lost. It is clearly too much current in the anode circuit but what is causing it? I read through the HV section in the service manual and can't say it is pointing me to anything in particular. I have checked the transistors in the HV regulator and HV oscillator etc. But did not find any issue. There still could be a diode that breaks down on load while showing good on the meter. The only major item I cannot check by replacing is the HV transformer as I don't have one. But if that was bad, wouldn't it blow the fuse even if the anode is not connected? Also, it does generate the 10kV. Unless, it is shorting under load, what else can go bad?

Re: Tektronix HC100 plotter on eBay


The shipping has now gone up. It's now $59.70. I used to want one of
these printers and they were difficult to find but I think I'm over that
now so I'll pass. But FWIW it appears to have both a Centronics and an
HP-IB interface.

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 6:31 PM Keith <> wrote:

Not sure how popular these HC100 still are - but the price is right...
$15.00 plus shipping at $45.


Not me by the way - just reporting it in case anyone is looking for one.



Re: Tektronix HC100 plotter on eBay


On 2021-04-29 6:31 p.m., Keith wrote:
Not sure how popular these HC100 still are - but the price is right... $15.00 plus shipping at $45.


Not me by the way - just reporting it in case anyone is looking for one.
I'm looking for the GPIB interface board to one. Can swap for the RS232.

Getting pens for these is pretty challenging, they're special for this
plotter and the way it's designed you can't really use anything else.




Re: 7A16A with an unknown modification MOD515D


For many years test equipment had minimal safety requirements. Newer equipment often has "sacrificial" resistors in parts of the circuit that also function as fuses. They often run hot and fail without reason. Usually the prints will have a label on them, calling them a "Critical Safety Component". Could the resistor you see overheating be one of these?

  Bruce Gentry  KA2IVY

On 4/29/21 17:05, Mark Vincent wrote:

Obviously this resistor is underrated in wattage. Something like 1 ow 2W would be better. If a resistor looks like this, it should be a higher wattage. I have seen this problem of a overstressed resistor go up in value or open causing the same problem you have/had. An easy way to get the power needed is to parallel or series resistors, when possible. Sometimes getting the precision resistor in the wattage needed cannot be done with one resistor. You can use an 82 ohm 1 or 2W resistor in parallel with a 4700 ohm. That will give you 80,5938.,. ohms. Well within the 1% tolerance. This is provided you use 1% resistors or measured ones. Your plug-in is worth getting right because it is a rare piece. It looks in excellent condition.


Tektronix HC100 plotter on eBay


Not sure how popular these HC100 still are - but the price is right... $15.00 plus shipping at $45.


Not me by the way - just reporting it in case anyone is looking for one.



Re: 7A16A with an unknown modification MOD515D


Actually the manual says these are 0.125 watt. I'm not familiar enough with TRW resistors but that would indeed be under rated. So interesting to say the least.

The actual power dissipation would be around 1/4 watt so 1/2 watt is safe.

Re: 7A16A with an unknown modification MOD515D


Well a half watt would be good enough.

I don't know the history of this unit. If you look closely you will see that someone was tweaking the pots. Could of been a slip of the probe.

Re: OT: bounced me

Jim Strohm

True t’ing!!

My Congressional campaign website got blacklisted by spamhaus in 2006 because one website on my provider was forwarding SPAM.

I switched to a more reputable provider forthwith. And instead of serving up SPAM they served up large-breasted NASCAR lady drivers.

Hey, here’s some advice. If you ever run for political office and you have a website, you have to park the website and all its aliases until after you die, because it’s a sure bet somebody will pwn the URL and put a XXX pr0n site there.

Have a nice day.


Sent from my quenched-gap spark transmitter.

Re: 465 Electrolytic Capacitor Replacement


The cap cans themselves complete part of the circuits. What I'd do is to get the same value caps that will fit inside the empty cans (or on the bases). The cans can be cut open with a tubing cutter, or just by spreading the crimp at the bottom, then pulling the guts out. And yes you need a good dose of heat to melt the solder. Suck/wick out as much as you can, then go around and heat the tabs individually and work them out by wiggling a little as you go around with the iron.

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