Date   

Re: PG506 Repair - I had a Great Day today/

Tom Lee
 

Congratulations, Michael! Those are nice gens, so having two working ones is great. I’ve never seen such a large collection of blown components in a single unit. Your persistence paid off!

Cheers
Tom

Sent from my iThing, so please forgive brevity and typos

On Apr 19, 2021, at 12:43, Michael W. Lynch via groups.io <mlynch003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Several years ago I bought a PG506 (B40000 and up) along with other TM500 plug ins. I was unlucky enough to damage the PG506 by installing it in a TM506 that had a bad pass transistor. For whatever reason this caused a series of failures in the Standard Amplitude Section, including a non-functional display. I have been sitting on this thing and trying to repair it (on and off) since that time (3 years?). I asked for some advice about this repair, but nothing that was suggested seemed to help. In the past few weeks I was able to obtain a mostly working PG506 and easily repair it, so I started back on the older and more seriously damaged unit.as a COVID project. Using my newer working unit as a guide, I was able to check the non- working unit against the known good unit. After a couple of days and several bad components, I have restored it to functional status.

All that is left now is to go through the calibration process on both units. Went from having Zero working to having two working is what I call a good week.

I found these components bad in the unit.

Q435 151-0223-00 NPN
Q535 151-0223-00 NPN
U460 156-0067-00 OP amp (741CN)
U200 156-0067-00 OP amp (741CN)
U240 156-0067-00 OP amp (741CN)
U610 156-0039-00 Dual J-K Flip-Flop
U480 156-0399-00 Opto Coupler
U255 156-0399-00 Opto Coupler
CR290 152-0141-02 (1N4152R)
CR291 152-0141-02 (1N4152R)

This was possible only because of the education that I have received from this group. Thanks to everyone who has help my hand through many of my other questions.
--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR





CRT Tester

wallydoc
 

I rescued a nice looking B&K CRT tube tester. Model 465
Has the manual and the connectors also.
From TV repair guy.
I do not know if it can test scope tubes or not,so I thought I would ask here first.

Wally KC9INK


Re: OT Chip Quik - which one to choose

Thomas Garson
 

I highly endorse ChipQuick.

It has saved me a LOT of grief when having to remove LSIs but its a virtual necessity for removing through hole parts from 4 or more layer boards that have multiple embedded power and ground planes (also known as heat sinks). Yes, I have powered solder suckers, solder wick, hot air solder/desolder tools, etc. Those are all good tools, but there are times when only ChipQuik, or its equal, will allow non PCB destructive removal of a soldered in part.

The only thing that might be even better, on an occasion of need, than standard ChipQuik "sticks" would be a ChipQuick paste. I might be able to "paint", or extrude from a syringe, a paste onto the legs of an LSI, then bring the PCB up to reflow temp in my oven, thereby allowing the paste to flow into the existing solder and diminish its mechanical and thermal properties. The supposed advantage of this over using localized heat from a hot air gun is it should not be necessary to overheat the work area, necessitated by thermal wicking of the remainder of the PCB, and having less danger of harming nearby solder connections that don't quite get to reflow temperature. Once the board is sufficiently cool, significantly lower localized melt temperature would be required to remove the part of interest. I can see where this might be one of the very few ways to rework a high density PCB with SMD parts on both sides. (God, please save me from having to do such work on a beast like that.)

While on the topic of limiting heat wicking that can damage solders on nearby parts that are NOT targets for removal: Thermal dams made from a thick paste that has a good ability to absorb heat can help when an oven is unavailable or not practical to use, for whatever reason. I made my own thermal dam paste by taking apart a hot/cold pad, drying out the fluid (usually water) from the clay like mineral contents in the pack and replacing it with silicone plumbers grease until I had a very thick, virtually self supporting, anhydrous "goo".

FWIW: I have also packed this goo into the spaces inside packs of rechargeable batteries, which I built into a die cast aluminum box, also packed to the walls. Full depth heat removal is very important for getting the best life, not to mention safe operation, from such battery packs. Unlike thermal potting compound, my goo can be removed nondestructively.

Thomas Garson
Aural Technology, Ashland, OR
By my calculation, the dynamic range of the universe is roughly 679dB,
which is approximately 225 bits, collected at a rate 1.714287514x10^23 sps.

On 4/19/21 12:35 PM, Shirley Dulcey KE1L wrote:
What you're looking for is ChipQuik alloy. If you've never used it, the
simplest way to start is to buy one of the small kits for desoldering; they
include a small spool of desoldering wire and some flux. There are versions
with and without lead.
Lead-free SMD1NL:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1NL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2
Leaded SMD1:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUEx4HVIhVm2RxvaiiXwXOtA%3D
On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:24 PM Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> wrote:

I use ChipQuik SMDLTLFP.

Applies best when the chip is slightly warm, otherwise the paste will
ball up.

Harvey


On 4/19/2021 2:28 PM, M Yachad wrote:
I've never used this special low-temp solder to remove SMD IC's.

I 'm game to try it.

Here is Mouser's inventory.

Exactly which one is the correct low-temp solder?

https://www.mouser.co.il/Chip-Quik/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jo

Thanks

Menahem










Re: PG506 Repair - I had a Great Day today/

Paul Amaranth
 

Nice to hear positive results

Dug myself into a deeper hole on a LeCroy repair by blowing up the
power supply. It is very poorly documented and I was trying to
understand how the protection circuitry worked when I managed to
blow it up. It's been sitting on the bench for a couple weeks.
I'll get back to it after some higher priority jobs get done.

Maybe I'll have a better idea of how to procede by then.

Paul

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 01:26:41PM -0700, Jeff Dutky wrote:
It's always a good day when you manage to repair something.

So is it common practice, in this hobby, to sit on instruments waiting for your own skills to ripen?

I'm currently doing that with a couple of instruments: I'm quite unripe.

-- Jeff Dutky
--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@AuroraGrp.Com | Unix/Linux - We don't do windows


Re: PG506 Repair - I had a Great Day today/

toby@...
 

On 2021-04-19 4:26 p.m., Jeff Dutky wrote:
It's always a good day when you manage to repair something.

So is it common practice, in this hobby, to sit on instruments waiting for your own skills to ripen?
Well, this is kind of what I am doing. I went from having repaired zero
scopes to having got four or five Tek & HP XY's working -- relatively
easy starter repairs.

The instruments waiting for me to smarten up are much more challenging,
mainly a 466 that died while I was testing it out, and an HP 1746.

--Toby


I'm currently doing that with a couple of instruments: I'm quite unripe.

-- Jeff Dutky





4 photos uploaded #photo-notice

TekScopes@groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the Tek 575 album of the TekScopes@groups.io group.

By: Joe <The-Lohrbach-Family@...>


Re: OT Chip Quik - which one to choose

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

The OP is in Israel; I don't know what availability of Amazon delivery is
there. ChipQuik products are available a number of ways: Amazon, major
electronics distributors, and ChipQuik's own website.

Another product of theirs that I like is the room temperature stable solder
paste, which is available in three alloys: 63/37, SAC305, and low
temperature bismuth.

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 4:30 PM Larry McDavid <lmcdavid@lmceng.com> wrote:

Amazon has these ChipQuik kits for about the same price and with free
Prime delivery.

Larry


On 4/19/2021 12:35 PM, Shirley Dulcey KE1L wrote:
What you're looking for is ChipQuik alloy. If you've never used it, the
simplest way to start is to buy one of the small kits for desoldering;
they
include a small spool of desoldering wire and some flux. There are
versions
with and without lead.

Lead-free SMD1NL:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1NL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2
Leaded SMD1:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUEx4HVIhVm2RxvaiiXwXOtA%3D

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:24 PM Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info>
wrote:

I use ChipQuik SMDLTLFP.

Applies best when the chip is slightly warm, otherwise the paste will
ball up.

Harvey


On 4/19/2021 2:28 PM, M Yachad wrote:
I've never used this special low-temp solder to remove SMD IC's.

I 'm game to try it.

Here is Mouser's inventory.

Exactly which one is the correct low-temp solder?

https://www.mouser.co.il/Chip-Quik/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jo

Thanks

Menahem












--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)






Re: PG506 Repair - I had a Great Day today/

 

Congrats, Michael, well done! We'd all be much less happy if it weren't for broken equipment.

Raymond


Re: OT Chip Quik - which one to choose

Larry McDavid
 

Amazon has these ChipQuik kits for about the same price and with free Prime delivery.

Larry

On 4/19/2021 12:35 PM, Shirley Dulcey KE1L wrote:
What you're looking for is ChipQuik alloy. If you've never used it, the
simplest way to start is to buy one of the small kits for desoldering; they
include a small spool of desoldering wire and some flux. There are versions
with and without lead.
Lead-free SMD1NL:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1NL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2
Leaded SMD1:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUEx4HVIhVm2RxvaiiXwXOtA%3D
On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:24 PM Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> wrote:

I use ChipQuik SMDLTLFP.

Applies best when the chip is slightly warm, otherwise the paste will
ball up.

Harvey


On 4/19/2021 2:28 PM, M Yachad wrote:
I've never used this special low-temp solder to remove SMD IC's.

I 'm game to try it.

Here is Mouser's inventory.

Exactly which one is the correct low-temp solder?

https://www.mouser.co.il/Chip-Quik/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jo

Thanks

Menahem









--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)


Re: PG506 Repair - I had a Great Day today/

 

It's always a good day when you manage to repair something.

So is it common practice, in this hobby, to sit on instruments waiting for your own skills to ripen?

I'm currently doing that with a couple of instruments: I'm quite unripe.

-- Jeff Dutky


Re: Free new Tek 152-0383-00 SMTD-898 Tunnel Diode

 

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 08:03 PM, walter shawlee wrote:


Took a while to find data on it,
it is a small gold pellet tunnel diode, the RPR does not say what it is used
in, as it's not listed at all. In any case, no doubt it will make somebody
happy out there, contact me off list and I will mail it in a padded bag to
you.
Hi Walter,
A few minutes after you posted your message, I responded via regular mail to your regular email address, letting you know that I'd like to take the TD. I haven't had a response yet and just wanted to check.

Raymonds


PG506 Repair - I had a Great Day today/

Michael W. Lynch
 

Several years ago I bought a PG506 (B40000 and up) along with other TM500 plug ins. I was unlucky enough to damage the PG506 by installing it in a TM506 that had a bad pass transistor. For whatever reason this caused a series of failures in the Standard Amplitude Section, including a non-functional display. I have been sitting on this thing and trying to repair it (on and off) since that time (3 years?). I asked for some advice about this repair, but nothing that was suggested seemed to help. In the past few weeks I was able to obtain a mostly working PG506 and easily repair it, so I started back on the older and more seriously damaged unit.as a COVID project. Using my newer working unit as a guide, I was able to check the non- working unit against the known good unit. After a couple of days and several bad components, I have restored it to functional status.

All that is left now is to go through the calibration process on both units. Went from having Zero working to having two working is what I call a good week.

I found these components bad in the unit.

Q435 151-0223-00 NPN
Q535 151-0223-00 NPN
U460 156-0067-00 OP amp (741CN)
U200 156-0067-00 OP amp (741CN)
U240 156-0067-00 OP amp (741CN)
U610 156-0039-00 Dual J-K Flip-Flop
U480 156-0399-00 Opto Coupler
U255 156-0399-00 Opto Coupler
CR290 152-0141-02 (1N4152R)
CR291 152-0141-02 (1N4152R)

This was possible only because of the education that I have received from this group. Thanks to everyone who has help my hand through many of my other questions.
--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR


Re: OT Chip Quik - which one to choose

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

What you're looking for is ChipQuik alloy. If you've never used it, the
simplest way to start is to buy one of the small kits for desoldering; they
include a small spool of desoldering wire and some flux. There are versions
with and without lead.

Lead-free SMD1NL:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1NL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2
Leaded SMD1:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUEx4HVIhVm2RxvaiiXwXOtA%3D

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 3:24 PM Harvey White <madyn@dragonworks.info> wrote:

I use ChipQuik SMDLTLFP.

Applies best when the chip is slightly warm, otherwise the paste will
ball up.

Harvey


On 4/19/2021 2:28 PM, M Yachad wrote:
I've never used this special low-temp solder to remove SMD IC's.

I 'm game to try it.

Here is Mouser's inventory.

Exactly which one is the correct low-temp solder?

https://www.mouser.co.il/Chip-Quik/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jo

Thanks

Menahem










Re: OT Chip Quik - which one to choose

Harvey White
 

I use ChipQuik  SMDLTLFP.

Applies best when the chip is slightly warm, otherwise the paste will ball up.

Harvey

On 4/19/2021 2:28 PM, M Yachad wrote:
I've never used this special low-temp solder to remove SMD IC's.

I 'm game to try it.

Here is Mouser's inventory.

Exactly which one is the correct low-temp solder?

https://www.mouser.co.il/Chip-Quik/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jo

Thanks

Menahem





Re: 492AP screen dump

John Miles
 

You're very welcome -- always good to hear success stories. :) What are TIA tools?

-- john, KE5FX

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of nj902
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2021 11:10 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 492AP screen dump

John,

I will add my thanks to you here also.

Your toolkit has been a great help to me in my personal quest to "learn things"

Your SA trace program enabled me to use TIA tools to evaluate the spectral
power density and adjacent channel performance of various digital voice
modulation formats.

I am sure that there are many like me using your toolkit in amateur and
personal applications that wouldn't be possible if the only alternatives were the
expensive commercial products.


OT Chip Quik - which one to choose

 

I've never used this special low-temp solder to remove SMD IC's.

I 'm game to try it.

Here is Mouser's inventory.

Exactly which one is the correct low-temp solder?

https://www.mouser.co.il/Chip-Quik/Tools-Supplies/Soldering/Solder/_/N-b11qq?P=1yzt5jo

Thanks

Menahem


Free new Tek 152-0383-00 SMTD-898 Tunnel Diode

 

I found this baby in a nice Tek box among the Tek spares I recently bought from europe. Took a while to find data on it,
it is a small gold pellet tunnel diode, the RPR does not say what it is used in, as it's not listed at all. In any case, no doubt it will make somebody happy out there, contact me off list and I will mail it in a padded bag to you.
there's also a mysterious Tek potted HV power supply up on the stiff season page, in the Tek section, also free.
https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/stuffday.html#tekfans

I also posted up an amazing booklet there from Bell labs (1958) on the history of the transistor.

all the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.


Re: 465 Missing a Few Components

 

SCMenasian wrote:

MJE2955s are more readily available on epay
No need to go to epay for MJE2955s, they are cheap and common from many retail sources: they're less than $1 each on Mouser and DigiKey. If you really want to live dangerously you can get 50 or 100 count on Amazon for under $20.

-- Jef Dutky


Re: 465 Missing a Few Components

Stephen
 

Thank you SCM. I already replaced the ones missing in mine with TIP35C, and reversed the B E leads.
But I’m sure this info will be very valuable to someone with a similar issue.
And I still haven’t found what is causing the new short on the 15V rail. But that’s ok.


Re: 465 Missing a Few Components

SCMenasian
 

I am in the process of replacing an MJE2901 and have found that, in addition to the 'K' part number which you mention, there is a "T" part number. The MJE2901T is a T0-220 part, while the straight MJE2901 is a T0-127 part
(the one we want). Also, The MJE2955 should be electrically compatible, as long as the module load is over a couple of mA. MJE2955s are more readily available on epay.

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