Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Daveolla
On my probe, the wire broke off right at the connection so soldering it back on only shortened it by less than an 1/8", I thought nothing of the loss, though I did not have the manuals caution to ponder at the time. Mine broke from the connector turning on the compensation box. Make sure it is good and tight and check others probes incase they have loosened in time.
Mine is the non A version, with a cable that has stiffened somewhat with age, not too bad, I have some older Tek probes that are unuseably stiff. Dave
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Colin Herbert
Try just putting the can with the lid in the right place on a solid flor and
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stand on it. If it goes right the lid is on securely, if not you have some nice new different-coloured shoes.
-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Daveolla Sent: 17 November 2020 18:14 To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing cable on P6075A probe Ya, I have a handy jar with about 5 or 6 of those paint openers, 2 styles. They work real good. They could make screwdrivers obsolete! Now if they had a gizmo to put the lid back on the paint can it might obsolete hammers.. Once the lid pounding dents the side of the can, the lid never goes back on well, too much springiness or bounce in the lid rim. Dave At 10:53 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote: Or use one of those handy metal thingies from Home Depot to open
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Except that they are only about one pixel wide...
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-Chuck Harris Daveolla wrote:
You could make a nice bug zapper with all those wires, and repurpose its HV supply
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Colin Herbert
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-----Original Message-----Daveolla Sent: 17 November 2020 17:44 Greeting, Also, take note of what the manual says about shortening http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/P6075 It is also repeated (or vise versa) in the plain P6075 manual on page "Substitution of non-standard parts is not advisable if the originalexist." And then is the "Conector Replacement" next with step 1 as "Remove Im sure we have all seen somones attempt at opening stuff up, TVs,So why is it called a screwdriver and not a paintcanpryer? Sorry, but I can be a bit funny about the misuse of tools - I hope you were joking, here. On a side note, what is the difference in the plain P6075 and the A DaveAt 07:51 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote: Not quite right to compare 250 to 10Meg and declare 200 to bereason!
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
Daveolla
You could make a nice bug zapper with all those wires, and repurpose its HV supply at the same time!
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Dave
At 10:59 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote:
On 11/16/20 9:58 PM, Chuck Harris wrote re trinitrons:It really was an economy in design. The electronics was simplified,Thanks for that reverse engineering analysis. Sounds like the concepts the original designer could have thought dealing with when coming up with the taught wires method.
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Daveolla
Ya, I have a handy jar with about 5 or 6 of those paint openers, 2 styles. They work real good. They could make screwdrivers obsolete! Now if they had a gizmo to put the lid back on the paint can it might obsolete hammers.. Once the lid pounding dents the side of the can, the lid never goes back on well, too much springiness or bounce in the lid rim.
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Dave
At 10:53 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote:
Or use one of those handy metal thingies from Home Depot to open paint cans if you're here in the States. Doubles as a bottle opener so you can have a cold one while you paint! Don't blame me if your paint job doesn't come out so great, though. ;)
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
John Griessen
On 11/16/20 9:58 PM, Chuck Harris wrote re trinitrons:
It really was an economy in design. The electronics was simplified,Thanks for that reverse engineering analysis. Sounds like the concepts the original designer could have thought dealing with when coming up with the taught wires method.
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Jim Ford
Or use one of those handy metal thingies from Home Depot to open paint cans if you're here in the States. Doubles as a bottle opener so you can have a cold one while you paint! Don't blame me if your paint job doesn't come out so great, though. ;)
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Jim Ford
------ Original Message ------
From: "Daveolla" <grobbins@netflash.net> To: TekScopes@groups.io Sent: 11/17/2020 9:44:13 AM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing cable on P6075A probe Greeting, Also, take note of what the manual says about shortening the cable and Connector Replacement" page 2 ( 6 of 11) of the P6075A version from the links given earlier in this thread;
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Daveolla
Greeting, Also, take note of what the manual says about shortening the cable and Connector Replacement" page 2 ( 6 of 11) of the P6075A version from the links given earlier in this thread;
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http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/P6075 It is also repeated (or vise versa) in the plain P6075 manual on page 5 at the same link. It states; "Substitution of non-standard parts is not advisable if the original performance is to be restored. Even shortening the cable by more than a few percent will have a noticeable effect on the transient response of the probe. The resistive center conductor has been specifically selected for critical dampening of reflections that would otherwise exist." And then is the "Conector Replacement" next with step 1 as "Remove the snap- fit cover on the compensation box." They dont tell you how to do that though. Perhaps the plastic has stiffened somewhat suggesting you need a good pry from a screwdriver. Perhaps a blade edge of knife gently if a finger nail wont budge it. It can also be stuck and needs to be cracked loose. If you nick or dint then you gotta fix that somehow........or I do. Leave no marks is the goal. Im sure we have all seen somones attempt at opening stuff up, TVs, phones, etc that looked like a jackhammer attacked it everywhere. Use a screwdriver for what it was intended, prying open paint cans!!! On a side note, what is the difference in the plain P6075 and the A version? I see the specs for the plain versions input impedance is 10meg within 0.4% and 0.5% for the A. Dave
At 07:51 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote:
Not quite right to compare 250 to 10Meg and declare 200 to be therefore ok. By that logic, zero ohms should be just fine, too. Yet, Tek went to the trouble to use resistance wire. Clearly there's a reason!
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Re: Tek 577 D1 Repair (B07xxxx)
Jack2015
4. (B108xxx,My 2nd 577 D1)
2020-Nov-2~8: Max 8 traces displayed on screen(9 lines included the baseline) Checked the staircase signal: Saw only 8 steps, 660mV /per step <-------NG (should be 10 steps,500mV/step) https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/255563/1?p=Created,,,100,2,0,0 Adjusted the step amplitude VR(A1 Board) and got the staircase of 10 steps (500mV/step). https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/255563/3?p=Created,,,100,2,0,0 https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/255563/0?p=Created,,,100,2,0,0 5.(B108xxx,My 2nd 577 D1) 2020-Nov-9~15: The Collector supply disabled light turned on right at power on. Checked Q588(2N2222,50V,0.8A): Vc=+12V Vb=+1.3V <-------NG Vbe=+1.3-(-12)=13.3V>>0.7V Ve=-12V Vbe open https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/255563/4?p=Created,,,100,2,0,0 Fixed this issue by replacing the 2N2222 with a 2sc1384(50V,1A). https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/255563/2?p=Created,,,100,2,0,0
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Tom Lee
Not quite right to compare 250 to 10Meg and declare 200 to be therefore ok. By that logic, zero ohms should be just fine, too. Yet, Tek went to the trouble to use resistance wire. Clearly there's a reason!
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The purpose of the resistance wire is to damp out reflections due to mismatch. There's a Goldilocks optimum for each length that balances bandwidth against aberrations. If you deviate from that balance, either parameter degrades. That said, you're probably not going to notice any dramatic change. But if you had before and after measurements, you'd see a difference. Tom Sent from my iThing, so please excuse the terseness and typos
On Nov 17, 2020, at 5:24, "Brent W8XG" <brent@pwg.net> wrote:
No, I did not do a YouTube video. But I've seen one out there. I didn't have a replacement cable or other parts. I cut my cable off at both ends as close as I could to the strain-relief parts, then tested the cable. It tested good, so I knew I'd cut out somewhere the break. I used the typical wire strippers to remove the insulation. I was very slow and methodical. But I was surprised at how fine that wire was. Then I had to clean out both strain relief's, with a Dremel. Once cleaned out, I pried them open just a little, to be able to slip the cable in and then crimp.
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Re: Q122/222 Jfet J300 subs for 2215A scope ?
Tom Lee
As I've said a couple of times, that circuit is very tolerant of FET parameters. It was designed to avoid the expense of matched FETs, so I very much doubt that any selection was involved here.
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Are you certain that you are inserting these various JFETs correctly? Pinouts are not standardized. Perhaps you are assuming that they are. Again, that circuit is just not fussy. Your problem lies somewhere else. Tom Sent from my iThing, so please excuse the terseness and typos
On Nov 16, 2020, at 6:35, charlesterrebonne@hotmail.com wrote:
thanks to all who replied - the 2215A scope is off the bench for now but Ill get back to it soon and will report when I get this working...I am almost at the point of sticking a high quality transistor socket there and just trying some other close to J300 specs Jfets I have on hand...FYI all the parts I have tried in the Q122/Q222 position in the scope : 2N3918, NTE133, k19, NTE132 tested good out of circuit...i have some more Jfet #s in my stock I need to try.
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Brent W8XG
No, I did not do a YouTube video. But I've seen one out there. I didn't have a replacement cable or other parts. I cut my cable off at both ends as close as I could to the strain-relief parts, then tested the cable. It tested good, so I knew I'd cut out somewhere the break. I used the typical wire strippers to remove the insulation. I was very slow and methodical. But I was surprised at how fine that wire was. Then I had to clean out both strain relief's, with a Dremel. Once cleaned out, I pried them open just a little, to be able to slip the cable in and then crimp.
So my cable is now a little shorter. The 250 ohm's is likely about right given the size of the wire, but I didn't measure it. So my cable might be 200 ohm's now. But with the 9k resistor in there to make it a 10x probe, I doubt it matters much. I don't know what the grommet is for. Maybe it's to slip over the cable and then crimp to become strain relief?? Regards,
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Well, that is sort of right.
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There was only one electron gun structure, but it had 3 cathodes, one for each color. There was no fancy electronic stuff, though. It was exactly the same as the other color crt's in that regard. The shadow mask was where it was all at. Because there was only one gun structure, and the cathodes (emitters) for that gun were lined up horizontally, the shadow mask was able to be made with a far simpler structure. It was simply a bunch of very fine wires, under high tension, that went from the top to the bottom of the screen. Because a shadow mask gets hit by the high energy electron beam, it gets hot and expands... especially when displaying a bright screen. This caused the conventional shadow mask, with its triad holes, to smear its colors when very bright... The trinitron's high tension wire shadow mask simply grew longer, and stayed taught. This kept the colors accurate at high screen brightness... a major win for Sony. The special sauce was the lack of tops and bottoms to the phosphor stripes. The vertical wires allowed much more exposed phosphor to be excited, and as a result a much brighter screen could be had with a trinitron than was possible with a shadow mask drilled full of holes. Because the wires that formed the shadow mask were under tension, and were vertical required the screen to be cylindrical, rather than spherical as was used in the GE triple gun CRT's. This was simpler, and allowed greater accuracy.... only being curved in one dimension. It really was an economy in design. The electronics was simplified, and the accuracy and brightness of the screen was greatly improved. -Chuck Harris Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I don’t have hard knowledge of that but the big deal about Trinitron wasn't the mask. It was the fact that there was only one electron gun and some pretty intricate electronic stuff done to emulate the three-gun standard color tubes. The benefit was overcoming the very difficult task of keeping the three gun cluster aligned in manufacture.
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Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe
On Mon, Nov 16, 2020 at 02:07 PM, Brent W8XG wrote:
I had a break. I cut the cable at both ends. There is a strain relief fitting, and I used a small Dremel drill toBrent, did you also make a YouTube video about the process? I believe I watched such a video when I was first considering doing this; it was daunting, but encouraging. I have what appears to be a complete kit for replacement of the cable, and it looks relatively straightforward (except for the bit about soldering a wire that is thinner than a human hair!), but I have several questions about the process: 1. The compensation box end of the cable has a significant extra length of insulated cable (about 2cm in excess of what is necessary) and I don't have any special tools to cut and strip the insulation from a coaxial cable of this small diameter (or any coaxial cable for that matter, but I can easily strip regular RG58 with an Xacto knife). How would you suggest stripping the insulation off the extra length of cable? 2. There is an extra part in the kit, a tiny grommet about 2mm long and 2mm in diameter at the flanged end. The instructions do not mention this grommet at all, and I don't see anything similar to it in the existing probe. Is this something that is needed for some probes (but not, presumably, for my P6075A)? 3. I checked the resistance of the new cable and the damaged cable, both read about 250 Ohms. This is a bit lower than I expected. Does this sound correct? I will try to upload pictures of the kit to the photos section under an album titled "P6075A Replacement Cable"
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
Roy Thistle
On Mon, Nov 16, 2020 at 02:29 PM, greenboxmaven wrote:
IMO, the Trinitron based Tek monitors have excellent colour. Trinitron was the best colour CRT... far better than any competitor, when first introduced... and superior, in the consumer market up until 1996? when Sony lost the patent. AFAIK, the "magic" was in the aperture grill (it's not right to call that a shadow mask.) According to the literature, this conveyed most of the advantages that made the Trinitron superior. Perhaps the one flaw... noticed, only if you look for it... is that the aperture grid's stabilization wires are sometimes visible. Interesting things happen with loud (very loud) music and Tinitron based broadcast monitors.
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
greenboxmaven
It is absolutely true. A consciencous station would have one or two typical home color TVs, connected to good outdoor antennas and not cable, in the control room to see and know what their viewers were seeing at home. Because of the design compromises of consumer TVs, especially in the color decoding circuitry and the lack of DC restoration, tweaks were made to be sure the home viewer was pleased. I worked in the TV repair craft between 1967 and 77, and there was a lot progress made and very bad compromises as well. Remember, a nice 23 inch console color set would cost $2500-4000 in today's money. Now you can buy a 45 inch high definition hang on the wall flat screen color set for $300 or less.
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Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY
On 11/16/20 3:48 PM, stevenhorii wrote:
In the days of color CRTs for television, I knew a guy who worked in a
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Tektronix Type 555 Dual Beam Oscilloscope
Bill Higdon
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
greenboxmaven
Tektronix made color studio video monitors that used Sony Trinitron jugs. In good condition and properly set up, the picture is excellent.
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Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY
On 11/16/20 12:43 PM, n4buq wrote:
Hi Tom,
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Re: Special Offer from Peter Keller to TekScopes Members: The Cathode Ray Tube, Technology, History, and Applications"
Harvey White
The guns are indeed the same. The electrons are the same. However, the shadow mask is the key. The guns are in a triangle. If each gun were aimed at the exact surface of the screen, then each beam would hit the same spot. However, the actual point where the beams are focused is a little inside where the phosphor is, so the three beams would cross, and then diverge. Think three chopsticks making a very small triangle, crossing, and then diverging to the guns.
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If you put a mask (with a hole in it at exactly the intersection of the three beams, they get narrowed. The beam coming through the shadow mask hits a different color phosphor depending on which gun sends out the beam. It's all in the angles. Harvey
On 11/16/2020 3:56 PM, n4buq wrote:
Hi Dennis,
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