Re: Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
Chuck Harris
Just to clear up some confusion:
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This note is about subminiature ceramic disk type trimmer capacitors. Tektronix equipment from the 1980's onward is littered with these little timebombs. It is a "modernization" of the old style ceramic trimmers that had a silver plated half circle on the lid that was soldered to the adjusting screw. In this case, the silver plating is inside of the trimmer, and the ceramic disk is held on by very temperamental magic. The moving ceramic disk sticks to its ceramic base, and the magic disappears. -Chuck Harris Chuck Harris wrote:
Hi All,
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Re: Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
Chuck Harris
Hi John,
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This is normal stuff when you calibrate an instrument for the first time in decades. These little subminiature trimmer caps break all the time. Every time I try to turn one for the first time, my jaw clenches up, and I give it a gentle turn. Either the ceramic part breaks free and the cap turns, or the screw breaks free of the ceramic disk. It is fixed, and the generator impedance is now adjusted. I am about half way through the calibration adjustments... All is good. I just like to put out repair notes as my local reality reminds me of them. -Chuck Harris John Ferguson via groups.io wrote:
Wow, Chuck, it was worse than I thought, but it sounds like you have prevailed.
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Re: Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
Chuck Harris
Trimmer caps is short for trimmer capacitors.
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-Chuck Harris keantoken via groups.io wrote:
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Re: Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
Stephen
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 03:21 PM, keantoken wrote:
I believe he’s talking about precision adjustable capacitors, not trim pots... 🤷♂️
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Re: Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
John Ferguson
Wow, Chuck, it was worse than I thought, but it sounds like you have prevailed.
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john
On 8/18/20 9:50 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Hi All,
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Re: Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
keantoken
You mean these trimmers?
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https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=HHuYZtQ5iDWVDisM2QQAHw%3D%3D I had them fail in 2 ways. The caps became loose so the wipers had no contact, or they get dead spots which don't seem to be reversible at all. I want to replace these with sealed Bourns trimmers as possible. My FG504 came very clean and new looking and with a calibration sticker, like it had been used in a climate controlled building. In my 465B scope, one of them had the cap break off in the middle where the shaft is. I didn't have a replacement so I wedged something between the trimmer and some wires in that area to keep it in contact. And there it remains to this day. The brown cap is plastic, not ceramic. They seem to get brittle over time, perhaps accelerated when exposed to chemicals. I wonder how long yours will last after this treatment.
On Tuesday, August 18, 2020, 08:51:04 PM CDT, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote:
Hi All, Just a note. As happens to all of us, one of those little ceramic trimmers in an FG540 was broken. The screw turned and turned, but the ceramic disk on top didn't. It was frozen solid. Bother... I didn't have a spare, so I removed the trimmer, and found the ceramic disk frozen solid to the ceramic base... no trimming going on here! First, I put the capacitor into some IPA to soak for a bit. There was more than enough stinky flux on the cap, so I think the flux was gluing the cap stuck. After it soaked for a while, I was able to turn the disk with my fingers... don't use tools, it will break! I put it in for some more soaking, and twisting, until it was good and clean. Next, I took a small dot of cyanoacrylate glue, and spread it around the screw. A small dot, not a flood. [If you can't control your glue bottle, put some CA glue on a piece of plastic, and use a toothpick to bring a dot to your trimmer.] Then finally, I gave a rag a squirt of "Kicker", a CA glue accelerator, and put the rag near the trimmer... The kicker's fumes are enough to harden the glue almost instantly. If you don't have any kicker, just let it set a while, it will harden from the moisture in the air. I gave the screw a twist, and all was back to normal. -Chuck Harris
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Little ceramic trimmer caps that always break... A fix.
Chuck Harris
Hi All,
Just a note. As happens to all of us, one of those little ceramic trimmers in an FG540 was broken. The screw turned and turned, but the ceramic disk on top didn't. It was frozen solid. Bother... I didn't have a spare, so I removed the trimmer, and found the ceramic disk frozen solid to the ceramic base... no trimming going on here! First, I put the capacitor into some IPA to soak for a bit. There was more than enough stinky flux on the cap, so I think the flux was gluing the cap stuck. After it soaked for a while, I was able to turn the disk with my fingers... don't use tools, it will break! I put it in for some more soaking, and twisting, until it was good and clean. Next, I took a small dot of cyanoacrylate glue, and spread it around the screw. A small dot, not a flood. [If you can't control your glue bottle, put some CA glue on a piece of plastic, and use a toothpick to bring a dot to your trimmer.] Then finally, I gave a rag a squirt of "Kicker", a CA glue accelerator, and put the rag near the trimmer... The kicker's fumes are enough to harden the glue almost instantly. If you don't have any kicker, just let it set a while, it will harden from the moisture in the air. I gave the screw a twist, and all was back to normal. -Chuck Harris
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Re: Tek 465: CH1 No signal, CH2 signal reads a fraction of input, V Pos distorts signal
Greenpitu@...
Thanks Chuck for the detailed explanation!
Much appreciated. Regards Luis
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Re: Tek 465: CH1 No signal, CH2 signal reads a fraction of input, V Pos distorts signal
Greenpitu@...
Hello Roger,
I am glad to inform you that I have made good progress after following your advice with CH1. Thanks so much! I am still, however, facing some challenges. Armed with ISO and strips of paper, I followed the instructions to clean-up all possible levers I could possibly reach. The task is cumbersome but (strangely) fulfiling when you pull the paper out and feel that bit of resistance against the gold plated contacts. In addition, I pulled out the 10X and 100X attenuators from CH1 attenuator boards, and cleaned all their pins, before plugging them back onto the board (few times). I then turned the power back on, but CH1 was still deaf. In addition, I now realized CH2 was deaf, too! I wasn't expecting this. Got me thinking for a while as I was certain I didn't touch CH2 circuit at all. I left CH1 for a minute and focused back on CH2. I was upset I would be losing that one, even though we know it wasn't 100% working either when it broke. In any case, after some pulling and pushing and whatnot, I realized that, if I pushed CH2 BNC adapter - where the probe meets the female connector - just at the right angle with the right pressure, then the 1/3 of my input signal came back to life again. There was hope! That was a lucky and easy one. It appears that C53 and R53 soldered in series with the BNC pin have a soft spot. Pushing the connection around a bit got the beam showing the calibrators 1KHz signal once again. I sense I need to solder the contacts once again, but I park that one for now. Still, back to 1/3 of the input signal. I went back to CH1 and pushed around the equivalent C3 and R3 in series with CH1 BNC pin, in the hope it would get the channel back to life. And it did, but temperamentally so. The beam showed up as a heavily under-compensated signal on the screen. I noticed the problem was more noticeable on the .2mV position when a particular cam-operated contact was closed. I cleaned that contact once again with more ISO and voila.. stable square signal on CH1! Now we got to this point where both, CH1 and CH2, show the 300mV 1KHz square signal, but just 100mV i.e 1/3 of its amplitude! Plus, the bean on both channels now equally distorts and expands from 100mV to 150mV when the V Pos controls are moved all the way up (or down)... there is consistency! Any thoughts about what else to try next, please? Does it appear as if the signal is not being amplified as it should? Regarding ADD, ALT and INVERT, all three appear to be in working order: I hooked two probes to the onboard calibrator, and then one each on CH1 and CH2. The ADD adds them, the ALT alternates between the two (albeit per V Pos above they distort greatly when moving off centre) and the ADD + INVERT on CH2 substracts both signals, leaving me with a nice, flat, focused beam at the centre of the screen..... I am afraid, I won't be able to get hold of a second oscilloscope at least within the next 3 or 4 weeks :( Any further suggestions much appreciated! Best Luis
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Re: 7854 display set up procedure without the calculator keyboard
There are a bunch on eBay. Search for Tektronix 7854 Calculator.
-Bob N3XKB On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:38 AM Martin Whybrow <martin@thewhybrows.co.uk> wrote: My 7854 has issue with the readout, the characters are lines (no Y
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
Stephen
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 08:11 AM, Dave Wise wrote:
I’m not educated enough in electronics to understand why that would matter, but I’m sure you’re right.
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
Dave Wise
I looked at the schematic and the parts list, and the Common Design Parts Catalog.
Q930 switches off the power. Q935 and Q965 handle current limiting. All three only need to handle about 10mA. During normal operation, they are off. One would think they can be anything. However, Tek specifically chose 151-0341-00 instead of 151-0190-00, even though the latter is both cheaper and more reliable. My guess is they picked the 2N3565 because it is slower than the 2N3904, fT = 40MHz vs 300MHz. This doesn't matter for Q930, but you may want to stay slow on Q935 or Q936 just to be on the safe side. Dave Wise ________________________________________ From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> on behalf of Stephen via groups.io <stephen.nabet=gmail.com@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 11:09 AM To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] SC502 With Display Issues On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 07:02 AM, Dave Wise wrote: While nobody is making the 2N3565 anymore, PN3565 by Central Semiconductor isThank you Dave. It’s in the Low Voltage Supply part of the circuit.
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
Stephen
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 07:02 AM, Dave Wise wrote:
While nobody is making the 2N3565 anymore, PN3565 by Central Semiconductor isThank you Dave. It’s in the Low Voltage Supply part of the circuit.
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
Dave Wise
While nobody is making the 2N3565 anymore, PN3565 by Central Semiconductor is in stock at Mouser Electronics.
Same die, different package, TO-92 vs TO-18, TO-98, or TO-106. I haven't been paying attention to the thread and don't know what role the part plays in this instrument, but I know several parts that handle as much or more current than the 2N3565, for example, 2N4401, BC337, MPS651, KSD1616A. 2N2222 was already mentioned. (Once again that part is more abundant as PN2222.) These make great non-saturating switches but I don't know how well they'd replace a 2N3565 if it's being used for RF. Mind the pinout, they're not all the same. HTH, Dave Wise ________________________________________ From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> on behalf of Stephen via groups.io <stephen.nabet=gmail.com@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 7:55 AM To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] SC502 With Display Issues On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 03:41 AM, <tekscopegroup@miwww.com> wrote: Not available where I live. And 3904’s seem to do the job perfectly in that application. And my local store said they were obsolete parts.
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Re: 7854 display set up procedure without the calculator keyboard
Dave Daniel
There is one on ebay.
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They are pretty rare these days. DaveD
On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:37, Martin Whybrow <martin@thewhybrows.co.uk> wrote:
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Re: A possibly sick 7904A
Eric
Roger,
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I am also worried about the focus issue and I am hoping to rule out the tube. Set to a high brightness I have to refocus the tube. But this then causes the readout to be unfocused. Am I being unrealistic to expect a trace to be in focus at any brightness as well as the readout?
On 8/18/2020 5:01 AM, Roger Evans via groups.io wrote:
One of the nice features on the 485 is that you can switch the calibrator from 1kHz for the standard compensation adjustments to 1MHz for the rise time checks when otherwise the trace would be very faint. The PG506 has intermediate rep rates as well.
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
Stephen
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 05:27 AM, <scm@menasians.com> wrote:
Thanks for the tip. I actually have quite a few.
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7854 display set up procedure without the calculator keyboard
Martin Whybrow
My 7854 has issue with the readout, the characters are lines (no Y deflection) and are in the wrong place (all at the central grid line); I want to go through the display setup process, but that requires the keyboard in order to enter the program to generate the calibration pattern; unfortunately I never got the keyboard when I bought the scope, is there any way around that little problem?
Martin
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
SCMenasian
BTW I forgot to mention. 2n2222s might be a better choice. They handle more (not less, like 2n3904) current than 2n3565. All other parameters look good too. They are quite available.
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Re: SC502 With Display Issues
Stephen
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 04:54 AM, <scm@menasians.com> wrote:
For now, the unit has been up and running for a few hours, and all seem to be just fine. Although I noticed something kinda strange, which I don’t think is related to any of that. That is, the very first portion of any waveform (or the very first blip of my time mark generator,) highlights brightly every now and then. As if I was in delayed time base mode (which this scope doesn’t have), and the highlight was like A “Inten”... Weird... so, I don't have anything concrete to contribute on this subject.Besides the issue I had with the 5V supply, it was powering up just fine before I inserted the extender wrong, so I don’t think that transistor was bad. Maybe on the verge of failing? The modification seems simple - just replace 2 resistors with FETs wired as constantI may do that in the futur. It seems easy enough. https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/252245/0?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0
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