Date   

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

n4buq
 

When mine broke, it sheared the cylindrical part cleanly where the brass insert stopped (approximately where the taper begins). I was able to drill and tap a very short (maybe three or four threads deep) 4-40 hole in the tapered end and with a very short length of 4-40 threaded rod and ca glue, put the pieces back together. I had to remove a few threads from the stud as well since it bottomed out on the threaded rod, but it has all held for about a year now.

Just a thought in case you don't find a replacement.

BTW, that may have been broken before you tried to turn that shaft. In my case, I know I did not apply very much torque at all before I noticed it was just spinning and I'm pretty sure mine was already broken.

An alternative (if you have access to a lathe or someone who could make it for you, would be to make a replacement for that threaded, shouldered, stud but make the 4-40 end just a bit longer. Drill and tap the end of the tapered piece and then screw the entire length of the new stud in to both pieces and affix it all with ca glue. It won't twist as before (due to the glue) but it would be a stronger way to go. Just a thought.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin" <@musaeum>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: Friday, August 7, 2020 2:07:56 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

That might become a "#me too" issue.

I add myself to the list of those that tried to turn the screw... I was too
eager to get the PSU out after one of the RIFAs went up in smoke.

I found the drawing in the files section, but do not have the tools do work
on such a part. Does someone has a model for a 3D-printer yet?

Anyone around Stuttgart / Germany with the proper tooling who might help me?

cheers
Martin




Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

DaveC <davec2468@...>
 

Martin,
Can you please provide a link to he location of these files? I looked in the group files and there aren’t many. I didn’t see anything relating to a collet.

Thanks,
Dave

On Aug 7, 2020, at 12:07 AM, Martin <@musaeum> wrote:

That might become a "#me too" issue.

I add myself to the list of those that tried to turn the screw... I was too eager to get the PSU out after one of the RIFAs went up in smoke.

I found the drawing in the files section, but do not have the tools do work on such a part. Does someone has a model for a 3D-printer yet?

Anyone around Stuttgart / Germany with the proper tooling who might help me?

cheers
Martin



Re: looking for internal photos of Input RC Normalizer (067-0537-00)

Colin Herbert
 

Further to Håkan's kind provision of this photo, apart from the fixed capacitor and (1M0) resistor in parallel, the other side of the Normalizer has an adjustable trimmer capacitor. If this is present, removal of the white plastic cap on the opposite side (if present) should reveal the screwdriver slot for its adjustment. If you cannot see a screwdriver slot, then the trimmer is absent. Don't fiddle with the trimmer if it is present, check out the instructions for the use and (possible) adjustment of Normalizers on TekWiki.

While I note that this particular Normalizer is 15pF, all normalizers look pretty much the same inside. The differences being the value of the capacitance(s) and the words on the cover. I think all the resistors are 1M0.

There are a number of different models with differing capacitances; some common, some less so. I received a "modified" Normalizer a little while ago (it had been converted into an attenuator for some reason!) and the supplier replaced it free of charge and with no argument. The peculiarity here is that Normalizers for 47pF, 30pf, 24pf and 20 pf are relatively common, but the odd values such as 15pf and 22pF seem to be butchered by some people. Why would anyone want to modify an unusual Normalizer and not a more common one?

Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of zenith5106
Sent: 07 August 2020 11:31
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] looking for internal photos of Input RC Normalizer (067-0537-00)

On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 09:45 AM, Jared Cabot wrote:


Does anyone here have an Input RC Normalizer to hand they can open the lid and
take some happy snaps for me
OK, find it here: www.hakanh.com/dl/temp/537.jpg

/Håkan


Re: looking for internal photos of Input RC Normalizer (067-0537-00)

 

On Fri, Aug 7, 2020 at 09:45 AM, Jared Cabot wrote:


Does anyone here have an Input RC Normalizer to hand they can open the lid and
take some happy snaps for me
OK, find it here: www.hakanh.com/dl/temp/537.jpg

/Håkan


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Stephen
 

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 09:59 PM, Colin Herbert wrote:


Have you tried looking at what Stewart's of Reading can supply? OK, I am
assuming that you live in the UK (or at least this side of the Atlantic)
rather than the US. There are other surplus sellers in the US, too. Just
Google the thing you are interested in - sometimes including gaps, sometimes
closing them and sometimes just putting only part of the item's ID. That's how
I located my 7S14.
Colin.
Hi Colin,

Yes, I do live on the good side of the Atlantic (just kidding), but not in the UK. I’ve never heard of Steward’s of Reading. I’ll google it though.

Thanks again.


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Colin Herbert
 

Have you tried looking at what Stewart's of Reading can supply? OK, I am assuming that you live in the UK (or at least this side of the Atlantic) rather than the US. There are other surplus sellers in the US, too. Just Google the thing you are interested in - sometimes including gaps, sometimes closing them and sometimes just putting only part of the item's ID. That's how I located my 7S14.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Stephen
Sent: 06 August 2020 18:52
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Ooh, the DM501A has soft buttons? I didn’t realize that. I hate soft buttons.
From the 2 last responses, it appears that since no DM504 are currently available anywhere, and since I don’t own a TM500x, I’m either gonna get a DM501 with the waffle rotary switch, or no Tektronix DM at all...
Are these good at least?


looking for internal photos of Input RC Normalizer (067-0537-00)

Jared Cabot
 

Does anyone here have an Input RC Normalizer to hand they can open the lid and take some happy snaps for me?

I'm dealing with a seller who sent me a gutted unit with a crystal in place of the proper components and I need to prove what it is supposed to look like inside as the manual doesn't show the actual compoments in the exploded diagram....

Thanks in advance!
Jared


Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

 

That might become a "#me too" issue.

I add myself to the list of those that tried to turn the screw... I was too eager to get the PSU out after one of the RIFAs went up in smoke.

I found the drawing in the files section, but do not have the tools do work on such a part. Does someone has a model for a 3D-printer yet?

Anyone around Stuttgart / Germany with the proper tooling who might help me?

cheers
Martin


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Stephen
 

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 02:18 PM, Dave Seiter wrote:


You could get a Tek handheld DMM; I've had mine since about 1985 (the only
Tek item I've ever purchased new!), and it still works perfectly.
-Dave
On Thursday, August 6, 2020, 10:52:27 AM PDT, Stephen
<stephen.nabet@...> wrote:
Yes, I could probably find one. But the idea is to grow my 500/5000 series plugin library.


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Stephen
 

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 06:02 PM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:


Hi Stephen,
I think you misunderstood. Sorry for any confusion I caused.
I didn't say anything at all about the many other models of DMMs Tek makes.
Tek has made more than a dozen DMMs for the TM5xx/TM5xxx. Some have actual
switches whether they are rotary or push button and some have soft
pushbuttons.

What I was referring to was that the DM504A was one of the ones that used
actual pushbuttons (which I prefer). Other than the DM504A I made no mention
of what the many other DMMs used other than to say I didn't like the models
that used soft pushbuttons. We are in agreement that we don't like soft
pushbuttons.

My original sentence:
"I agree with Walter Shawlee that the DM504A is an excellent choice. It also
uses actual pushbuttons instead of "soft" pushbuttons so you know what it will
measure even if you power off the mainframe and turn it on later."

Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen, Thursday, August 06, 2020 10:52 AM

<SNIP>
Ooh, the DM501A has soft buttons? I didn’t realize that. I hate soft
buttons.



--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator
Hi Dennis,
That’s ok. Since I’ve never had, or even seen first hand any of these models, I got confused and,
because I have no point of reference when it comes to the Tek DMM, I misunderstood you.

Thank you for clarifying though.
Thanks to all the others that weighed in, all is clearer and makes more sense.

I’ll probably wait for a 504A or 511 to show up, or get a 502A or a 501x for the right price until a 504A pops up.


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

 

Take a look at the 3rd row of buttons (on the right side of plugin). If you press the 6th button down it becomes autoranging.
Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Stephen
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2020 1:16 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 08:29 AM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:


On the 502A you can select a range or select autorange.

Vince - K8ZW.
Ooh, ok. That makes more sense then,
Thanks





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

 

Hi Stephen,
I think you misunderstood. Sorry for any confusion I caused.
I didn't say anything at all about the many other models of DMMs Tek makes. Tek has made more than a dozen DMMs for the TM5xx/TM5xxx. Some have actual switches whether they are rotary or push button and some have soft pushbuttons.

What I was referring to was that the DM504A was one of the ones that used actual pushbuttons (which I prefer). Other than the DM504A I made no mention of what the many other DMMs used other than to say I didn't like the models that used soft pushbuttons. We are in agreement that we don't like soft pushbuttons.

My original sentence:
"I agree with Walter Shawlee that the DM504A is an excellent choice. It also uses actual pushbuttons instead of "soft" pushbuttons so you know what it will measure even if you power off the mainframe and turn it on later."

Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen, Thursday, August 06, 2020 10:52 AM

<SNIP>
Ooh, the DM501A has soft buttons? I didn’t realize that. I hate soft buttons.



--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: Tek 2430 (Non-A) with Strange Problem (same with Tek 2465)

 

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 01:58 AM, Harvey White wrote:
Depending on the smell (5$, 10$, 20$.....) it could be the RIFA capacitors on the power input.
Just happened to me... I made some experiments with a 2465 that seemed to work properly. After 10 minutes or so, white smoke came out of the scope! It smelled like burned wood. A quite different taste than when these famous line filters from Schaffner go up in smoke.

Opening up I could spot the RIFAs, one of them cracked and the series 68 ohms resistor burned, too. No mess around the cap like with the Schaffner.

The mechanics of the scope are a bit awkward. I had to unmount the whole supply to be able to get to the board. In the process I had to take of the fan from that very special Tektronix-Motor, probably braking the plastic clamps of the hub on the motor's axis. Will have to improvise to get it fixed again...

To Mike: if you really cannot spot a defective component you might try and find someone with an IR-camera. Thats a very effective and efficient tool for spotting components that tend to overheat. The electrolytics in my power supply all look fine.

cheers
Martin

PS: thats how it looks, (in my case it was the other one of the pair) https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/248127/5?p=Created,,,100,2,0,0


Re: 11301 Keep Alive Battery Change-out ?

Bill Perkins
 

Hi Clark:
That sounds a lot like, "If it ain't broke . . . " advice.

Bill,
If you are getting a diagnostic message to replace the battery, then do it. Remember to power off first. The battery is a very tight fit; so, be careful and be gentle. If you have a clean power on self test, then there is no need to replace the battery.
The scope will operate with a dead battery but the last settings prior to power off will be lost. If you ran the EA (enchanted accuracy) to trim the offsets, that will be lost as well with a dead battery. The battery allows you to resume operation between power cycles with no fuss.
Factory cal constants are stored in EEPROM. They do not depend upon the battery.
Check the service documentation if you are nervous.
The memory expansion board (non-A model upgrade and all A models) also has a battery that saves the 10 setups and the two waveforms. Yes! It can store and display waveforms from memory, but that's another topic.
I have been amazed at the life of the battery. Mine lasted more than 30 years! That's a lot of margin over the 5 year guaranteed life.
And a guaranteed 10 year shelf life

Regards,
Clark
Thx,
Bill


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Vince Vielhaber
 

I have a DM501 and two DM502A. I had two DM501 but after getting my first 502A, I got another one soon after. The 501 uses an unobtainium IC, I used to have two 501s, that IC went in one of them. With the current state of rarity of the 504A, if I needed another one it would definitely be a 502A.

Vince - K8ZW.

On 08/06/2020 09:18 PM, Dave Seiter wrote:
You could get a Tek handheld DMM; I've had mine since about 1985 (the only Tek item I've ever purchased new!), and it still works perfectly.
-Dave
On Thursday, August 6, 2020, 10:52:27 AM PDT, Stephen <stephen.nabet@...> wrote:

Ooh, the DM501A has soft buttons? I didn’t realize that. I hate soft buttons.
From the 2 last responses, it appears that since no DM504 are currently available anywhere, and since I don’t own a TM500x, I’m either gonna get a DM501 with the waffle rotary switch, or no Tektronix DM at all...
Are these good at least?




Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Dave Seiter
 

You could get a Tek handheld DMM; I've had mine since about 1985 (the only Tek item I've ever purchased new!), and it still works perfectly.
-Dave

On Thursday, August 6, 2020, 10:52:27 AM PDT, Stephen <stephen.nabet@...> wrote:

Ooh, the DM501A has soft buttons?  I didn’t realize that.  I hate soft buttons.
From the 2 last responses, it appears that since no DM504 are currently available anywhere, and since I don’t  own a TM500x, I’m either gonna get a DM501 with the waffle rotary switch, or no Tektronix DM at all...
Are these good at least?


Re: 11301 Keep Alive BatteryCchange-out ?

Clark Foley
 

Bill,

If you are getting a diagnostic message to replace the battery, then do it. Remember to power off first. The battery is a very tight fit; so, be careful and be gentle. If you have a clean power on self test, then there is no need to replace the battery.

The scope will operate with a dead battery but the last settings prior to power off will be lost. If you ran the EA (enchanted accuracy) to trim the offsets, that will be lost as well with a dead battery. The battery allows you to resume operation between power cycles with no fuss.

Factory cal constants are stored in EEPROM. They do not depend upon the battery.

Check the service documentation if you are nervous.

The memory expansion board (non-A model upgrade and all A models) also has a battery that saves the 10 setups and the two waveforms. Yes! It can store and display waveforms from memory, but that's another topic.
I have been amazed at the life of the battery. Mine lasted more than 30 years! That's a lot of margin over the 5 year guaranteed life.

Regards,
Clark


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Renée
 

same here -no soft buttons on my 501A. it has worked well for me for many years and hope that continues.....just have to pay attention when pushing buttons!!! Had a 501 the  rotary switch started to have issues....was not my problem belonged to the company, I sent it to the RTC ( repair/test/cal) dept....it never returned.....I ended up using Fluke handhelds as replacement to get the job done......otherwise depending what you are doing maybe a couple of handhelds may be easier to obtain, less expensive and sometimes more appropriate.....sadly they do not fit the frame however, frees the slot for something else <grin>....
Renée

On 8/6/20 10:58 AM, Andy Warner wrote:
Nope, the DM501A does not have soft buttons (at least neither of mine do.)

I'm coming over as a champion of the DM501A here, I'm far from that - but
they can be made to work well enough and are not made of unobtainium.

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 12:52 PM Stephen <stephen.nabet@...> wrote:

Ooh, the DM501A has soft buttons? I didn’t realize that. I hate soft
buttons.
From the 2 last responses, it appears that since no DM504 are currently
available anywhere, and since I don’t own a TM500x, I’m either gonna get a
DM501 with the waffle rotary switch, or no Tektronix DM at all...
Are these good at least?




Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Stephen
 

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 10:31 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:

Interleaved

Just because a DMM has manual range-select buttons or knobs does not
mean it cannot also autorange. The Tek DM 502A DMM can do both--
Yes, I had missed that part, and Vince pointed that out to me.

it has real (not softkey) push button switches to select ranges but it also has
an autorange push button. True, I do usually use it in autorange mode
but manual selection is available.
I must’ve probably misunderstood a previous post that mentioned soft buttons.

The DM 502A also has a push button and input connector for a 100 Ohm
platinum resistance thermometer (PRT) temperature probe. The probe tip
is relatively low thermal mass and the temperature response is quick.
This probe has a long and quite flexible cable. Note that other Tek DM
modules may use a different, thermistor-type probe.
Nice! I see the 501/A also has that temp feature. But I can see a different connector.

My "GoTo" bench DMM is a HP 34401A Multimeter. Normally, it autoranges
but a push button changes mode to allow manual range selection. Manual
push buttons select ac and dc voltage and current and 2 and 4-wire
resistance measurement. On power-up, it defaults to dc voltage but that
may even be configurable. The Tek DM 502A (not the Tek DM 502) is almost
as versatile but is 3-1/2 digit.
My “Go to” bench MM is not digital actually. It’s a tube driven, very high impedance (7.5Mohm) old MM that can also measure up to 1.6 KVDC, or 32 KVDC with the appropriate probe; but I don’t have the probe for it, and I can’t find a 1500 Mohm High Voltage probe that it needs either. It can also, with it’s high frequency probe (that I don’t have either), measure high frequencies AC up to 600Mhz. But most of the time I use a handheld Fluke or a Velleman DMM.

The Tek DM 504A is 4-1/2 digit and a nice instrument but availability is
low.
Yes, that’s the problem. Do I “need” another DMM? Not really. I just find it nice to have one to add to my 500 series plugin “library”. I just want to find the right one.

Larry


On 8/6/2020 12:10 PM, Stephen wrote:
On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 07:54 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:


I have a Tek DM502A that works well. It is 3-1/2 digit but autoranging
and has a separate banana jack input for current measurement.
Are you sure that it’s auto-ranging? I’ve never had one, but from the
pictures it seems that you have to manually select the range you’re
measuring...
--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)


Re: TM 500 Digital Multimeter Recommendations

Larry McDavid
 

Just because a DMM has manual range-select buttons or knobs does not mean it cannot also autorange. The Tek DM 502A DMM can do both--it has real (not softkey) push button switches to select ranges but it also has an autorange push button. True, I do usually use it in autorange mode but manual selection is available.

The DM 502A also has a push button and input connector for a 100 Ohm platinum resistance thermometer (PRT) temperature probe. The probe tip is relatively low thermal mass and the temperature response is quick. This probe has a long and quite flexible cable. Note that other Tek DM modules may use a different, thermistor-type probe.

My "GoTo" bench DMM is a HP 34401A Multimeter. Normally, it autoranges but a push button changes mode to allow manual range selection. Manual push buttons select ac and dc voltage and current and 2 and 4-wire resistance measurement. On power-up, it defaults to dc voltage but that may even be configurable. The Tek DM 502A (not the Tek DM 502) is almost as versatile but is 3-1/2 digit.

The Tek DM 504A is 4-1/2 digit and a nice instrument but availability is low.

Larry

On 8/6/2020 12:10 PM, Stephen wrote:
On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 07:54 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:


I have a Tek DM502A that works well. It is 3-1/2 digit but autoranging
and has a separate banana jack input for current measurement.
Are you sure that it’s auto-ranging? I’ve never had one, but from the pictures it seems that you have to manually select the range you’re measuring...
--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)