Date   
Re: looking for 5500 uf cap for tek 475

VK1GVC
 

Thanks to Harvey and Eric for their suggestions about alternative ways to get hold of the little round PCB adapters for 4-legged capacitor mounts but Jeff contacted me off-list and offered to order some extras from the eBay supplier and post them to me in AUS.  If I read the USPS website correctly this should only cost USD2 or 3 and they will lie nice and flat in a letter envelope if stuck to a piece of light cardboard; no need for the awkward shaped headers, just the PCBs.

Special thanks to Jeff!

Graham

On 3/06/2020 9:55 am, Tom Miller wrote:
It is only an 85°C cap that is already 17 years old.

On 6/2/2020 7:10 PM, Craig Cramb wrote:
tek part number 290-0584-00 .    anybody have any to sell?
Ebay listing:   133209786060


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Re: TM 500 Front Panels

Steve Dench
 

There is an unfinshed one on thingiverse as part of an upload under
"Tektronix TM500 module parts" that someone has uploaded, it may be a good
starting point?

On Wed, 3 Jun. 2020, 12:09 pm Mlynch001, <@mlynch001> wrote:

All,

I will try to respond to this new topic as well.

Looking forward to working on this project.
--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR



Re: SC502 Old Enough to Smoke?

Harvey White
 

Has to do with how old they were, and that Tek (and likely everyone else) use a 6 volt Tantalum on a 5 volt supply, which was the recommended practice at the time.  I'd be happy using a modern 7 volt tantalum on a 3.3 volt supply, and perhaps iffy on a 5.0 volt supply.  The early ones were very underrated for voltage ratings.

The early ones tend to fail shorted.

Harvey

On 6/2/2020 10:22 PM, DaveH52 wrote:
Interesting. Tantalum caps are generally very reliable. The solid type (CSR style) is preferable to the liquid (CLR style) because the liquid types contain sulfuric acid and make a real mess when they leak. The solid type usually specifies that a series resistor of about 20 ohms/volt is used to limit fault current. If this is done they can self heal. For a while, and it's been a while.


Re: 184 Time-Mark Generator lamp

@0culus
 

Hi Melvin,

How did you get the lamp module open? It looks very well sealed to me.

Sean

On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 06:11 AM, Melvin Gleep wrote:


Hi Sean,

I had the same Problem, but it is easy to fix. You can take the plugable power
lamp apart and you will find a small bulb inside. Just remove it and solder in
a replacement bulb. I had one in my parts bin (I think it was 7volts at About
20 mA, but not sure) which fit nicely. If you cannot find a replcement bulb,
just use an LED instead (with limiting resistor, of Course) which fits nicely
within the lamp plug housing.

Re: SC502 Old Enough to Smoke?

DaveH52
 

Interesting. Tantalum caps are generally very reliable. The solid type (CSR style) is preferable to the liquid (CLR style) because the liquid types contain sulfuric acid and make a real mess when they leak. The solid type usually specifies that a series resistor of about 20 ohms/volt is used to limit fault current. If this is done they can self heal. For a while, and it's been a while.

Re: TM 500 Front Panels

Mlynch001
 

All,

I will try to respond to this new topic as well.

Looking forward to working on this project.
--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR

Re: Anyone interested a addon plugin that enable you to use 7000 plugins on modern digital scope

boid_twitty
 

The corrupted SDS8202 was eventually revived with an
externally-drive firmware update. I had full function back on
the 4th rewrite, after making sure that any stored settings
were manually re-written with non-corrupted values.

Even the rotary encoders seemed to have been restored
to function. Go figure. That's an issue with many other
models, written off as oxidation or aging. Perhaps it's
worth while raising the issue more forcefully with the
head office.

The firmware file was labelled with this unit's full serial number,
so I'm not sure it's of use to anyone else. Why so cagey about
an apparently successful firmware revision?

The under-voltage battery operation is still too dangerous to
allow to occur - if it still can result in firmware corruption.
I'll be looking into possible hardware mods to rectify that.

RL

Re: SC502 Old Enough to Smoke?

Harvey White
 

That's certainly where I'd look.  I'd look at all of the supplies that get their reference from the +20.   If that's on, then the problems go with the individual supplies.

One of the most common problems, as you know, are shorted or leaky tantalums.

Harvey

On 6/2/2020 9:03 PM, DaveH52 wrote:
Well I checked the onboard power regulators and the -20V is at -20.46, the +20V is at +16.64v and the +5V is at +4.25. Since the +5 supply gets its reference from the +20v supply I suppose I'll be looking at what's connected to the +20 rail first.


Re: SC502 Old Enough to Smoke?

DaveH52
 

Well I checked the onboard power regulators and the -20V is at -20.46, the +20V is at +16.64v and the +5V is at +4.25. Since the +5 supply gets its reference from the +20v supply I suppose I'll be looking at what's connected to the +20 rail first.

Re: TM 500 Front Panels

Dave Daniel
 

I could use several of these as I have a bunch that have the corners broken off.

DaveD

On 6/2/2020 8:27 PM, Harvey White wrote:
OK, will continue to reply to this thread if I can remember at the moment

Harvey


On 6/2/2020 8:22 PM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:
I forwarded your reply to the more appropriate topic subject line I started.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Harvey White
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 2:16 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

There are some things to consider when doing a 3D design that complicate the project, and for that matter, may or may not render the design "workable".

There has to be at least one flat space that hits the build platform. Modeling a cube standing on a point isn't a good idea.

There's a limit to how much and how long an overhang can be without having a support.  Supports can be removed, if done gracefully. Otherwise, the unsupported part tends to sag.

If you use OpenSCAD, then it's a parametric modeler.  You can easily specify the basic backplate and the edge as a model.  You can base models off this.  Adding a hole at a particular point, square or round, is easy.  it takes a few lines of code.

Adding a boss on the front, or on the rear, is easy enough, however anything on the rear keeps the back from being flat, and that's a problem.

For material, PLA would be the material of choice to make the initial models.  Making them out of ABS or PETG would be a good choice for durability.

Color is not going to be a problem, you can get pretty close.

There are ways of working around some of this, but those ways do make life more difficult.

Harvey


On 6/2/2020 4:50 PM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:
There are no protrusions on the backside but the inner flat rectangular center of the front panel is recessed on the other side just like the front side. In other words the front panel is reversible.
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
Michael W. Lynch via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 6:48 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Dennis,

I am going to take a closer look at some of my TM500 plug ins and see if I can come up with a rough model.  Sounds simple enough, as long as the back side of the blank is flat (there are no protrusions). Anything protruding would make the job more difficult.  It may seem silly, but one of the most challenging tasks will be to get that thin outer rim of the blank to print properly.  Thin sections such as that are problematic.  This is where experimentation comes into play.

Another part of the project would be printing a Drill Jig to hold the two parts in perfect alignment, allowing drilling the various holes, so an exact match is achieved.

One of the nice things about 3D printing is that the operator can choose a wide variety of materials to build the model.  I tend to use PETG, since the material is easy to print, solvent resistant and is not too brittle. ABS and Nylon are also options. Once the model is done, it is a simple matter to print in whatever color and type material that you wish.

I'm working on a set of cord wrap feet for my "new" 453, once those are complete, I will get on this project.  I will let you know what I come up with.

Thanks for the inspiration.


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Re: TM 500 Front Panels

Harvey White
 

OK, will continue to reply to this thread if I can remember at the moment

Harvey

On 6/2/2020 8:22 PM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:
I forwarded your reply to the more appropriate topic subject line I started.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Harvey White
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 2:16 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

There are some things to consider when doing a 3D design that complicate the project, and for that matter, may or may not render the design "workable".

There has to be at least one flat space that hits the build platform. Modeling a cube standing on a point isn't a good idea.

There's a limit to how much and how long an overhang can be without having a support. Supports can be removed, if done gracefully. Otherwise, the unsupported part tends to sag.

If you use OpenSCAD, then it's a parametric modeler. You can easily specify the basic backplate and the edge as a model. You can base models off this. Adding a hole at a particular point, square or round, is easy. it takes a few lines of code.

Adding a boss on the front, or on the rear, is easy enough, however anything on the rear keeps the back from being flat, and that's a problem.

For material, PLA would be the material of choice to make the initial models. Making them out of ABS or PETG would be a good choice for durability.

Color is not going to be a problem, you can get pretty close.

There are ways of working around some of this, but those ways do make life more difficult.

Harvey


On 6/2/2020 4:50 PM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:
There are no protrusions on the backside but the inner flat rectangular center of the front panel is recessed on the other side just like the front side. In other words the front panel is reversible.
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
Michael W. Lynch via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 6:48 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Dennis,

I am going to take a closer look at some of my TM500 plug ins and see if I can come up with a rough model. Sounds simple enough, as long as the back side of the blank is flat (there are no protrusions). Anything protruding would make the job more difficult. It may seem silly, but one of the most challenging tasks will be to get that thin outer rim of the blank to print properly. Thin sections such as that are problematic. This is where experimentation comes into play.

Another part of the project would be printing a Drill Jig to hold the two parts in perfect alignment, allowing drilling the various holes, so an exact match is achieved.

One of the nice things about 3D printing is that the operator can choose a wide variety of materials to build the model. I tend to use PETG, since the material is easy to print, solvent resistant and is not too brittle. ABS and Nylon are also options. Once the model is done, it is a simple matter to print in whatever color and type material that you wish.

I'm working on a set of cord wrap feet for my "new" 453, once those are complete, I will get on this project. I will let you know what I come up with.

Thanks for the inspiration.


Re: Advice about buying a 7904

Harvey White
 

I have some designs that work for the pull tab on the TM5000 series, if needed.

Harvey

On 6/2/2020 7:42 PM, Mlynch001 wrote:
Dennis wrote:
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you
Dennis,

Please do send it to me. I will get this designed and print a prototype. I will make sure that you get your sample back after the design phase is completed.

I can provide a rectangular hole for the pull tab and also any other holes that would be present on ALL versions of plug ins. I believe that there are some holes that must be common to all versions. Possibly the 4 screws that hold the front panel to the upper and lower aluminum extrusions?

Looking forward to getting this part designed and printed.

Thanks!

Re: Advice about buying a 7904

Harvey White
 

Please see inline comments:

On 6/2/2020 7:35 PM, Mlynch001 wrote:
Harvey,

Modeling is not going to be an issue, just a matter of the time it will take to create the model. Those more complex front panels would be time consuming. I am not at all adverse to spending the time to do this project, but I would like to have samples of the panels so that I can produce an accurate model the first time.
I may be able to help, given that I use OpenSCAD and would give you the code for the ones I do.

It is possible to use the slicer program to position the model in whatever position makes best sense. Some slicers even do analysis of the model and position the model in the best orientation for printing. I’m going to work on that simple piece that Dennis is describing first of all. I knew that one of these plug ins had a simple front panel.
This was more of an "introduce people to the limitations of 3D printing" than not.  Newcomers to 3D printing don't understand support structure and what they (eventually) do to the model.

I will print these in PETG, since my machines are already calibrated for that material and that will yield a usable part immediately. I am not too fond of PLA, except in applications where durability is not an issue. PLA is extremely brittle and most of it does not hold up well in higher temps.
Exactly, which is why I mentioned doing the dimensional models with PLA rather than PETG.  I use (exclusively) PLA, and have not used PETG yet.    However, the models are independent of the printed material.



I have a light grey PETG that might look pretty good for these parts.
That's kinda what I thought I would use.
Appreciate your comments and ideas going forward.
You have used the #include (IIRC) structure to reference other libraries?

I'd do a program structure with a "difference" between a union (I always do this) and another union.

The first include has the blank plate.  The difference part has all the holes.  From what I see, the holes may be standard, so I'd use a library of them and then change the locations (and include the ones you want.)  If you're familiar with OpenSCAD then you know this already.

I don't remember bosses (extrusions) below the base plate for TM500 stuff (or maybe even TM5000).  However, I'm not about to say there aren't.

I can add this to my projects list, if you want.

If needed, please feel free to email me directly.

I've been considering this for a while, but other projects seem to claim my time.

I have a decent assortment of TM500 (and a few TM5000) plugins, so between us, we may have a number that's sufficient.  How about (if we want) coordinate who does what so we don't duplicate effort.

Harvey


Sincerely,

TM504 Front Panels

 

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Dennis Tillman W7pF
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 1:59 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Hi Michael,
You are correct. Those plugins and many of the newer "A" versions of the DM5xxA models have a more complex front panel.
But the plugins with complicated 3D extruded front panels make up less than 10% of what was made.
A blank front panel with the front area recessed (and a flat backside) will make it possible to restore the appearance of a lot of otherwise perfectly working plugins with damaged front panels Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Michael W. Lynch via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 7:38 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Dennis,

Taking a very cursory look at a few TM500 plug ins, I see some issues here, For example, my PG506 and DM502A (surely others as well?) have a very complex back plane with mounting bosses as well as screws that come in from the sides, with threaded inserts. In themselves, These are not insurmountable, however, it does make for a much more complex 3D printing problem, mainly because of the dimensional accuracy required for proper alignment of all the parts. Later design Plug ins are not flat on the front or the back sides e.g. there are recesses and/or protrusions on both sides.

Perhaps there are some that are less complex that you could suggest that would be better candidates??

I am not going to abandon the idea, but it will take some time to figure out the best way to approach the problem .

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, Arkansas





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

TM504 Front Panels

 

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Mlynch001
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 4:43 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Dennis wrote:
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you
Dennis,

Please do send it to me. I will get this designed and print a prototype. I will make sure that you get your sample back after the design phase is completed.

I can provide a rectangular hole for the pull tab and also any other holes that would be present on ALL versions of plug ins. I believe that there are some holes that must be common to all versions. Possibly the 4 screws that hold the front panel to the upper and lower aluminum extrusions?

Looking forward to getting this part designed and printed.

Thanks!

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

TM504 Front Panels

 

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Mlynch001
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 4:35 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Harvey,

Modeling is not going to be an issue, just a matter of the time it will take to create the model. Those more complex front panels would be time consuming. I am not at all adverse to spending the time to do this project, but I would like to have samples of the panels so that I can produce an accurate model the first time.

It is possible to use the slicer program to position the model in whatever position makes best sense. Some slicers even do analysis of the model and position the model in the best orientation for printing. I’m going to work on that simple piece that Dennis is describing first of all. I knew that one of these plug ins had a simple front panel.

I will print these in PETG, since my machines are already calibrated for that material and that will yield a usable part immediately. I am not too fond of PLA, except in applications where durability is not an issue. PLA is extremely brittle and most of it does not hold up well in higher temps.

I have a light grey PETG that might look pretty good for these parts.

Appreciate your comments and ideas going forward.

Sincerely,


--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

TM 500 Front Panels

 

I forwarded your reply to the more appropriate topic subject line I started.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Harvey White
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 2:16 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

There are some things to consider when doing a 3D design that complicate the project, and for that matter, may or may not render the design "workable".

There has to be at least one flat space that hits the build platform. Modeling a cube standing on a point isn't a good idea.

There's a limit to how much and how long an overhang can be without having a support. Supports can be removed, if done gracefully. Otherwise, the unsupported part tends to sag.

If you use OpenSCAD, then it's a parametric modeler. You can easily specify the basic backplate and the edge as a model. You can base models off this. Adding a hole at a particular point, square or round, is easy. it takes a few lines of code.

Adding a boss on the front, or on the rear, is easy enough, however anything on the rear keeps the back from being flat, and that's a problem.

For material, PLA would be the material of choice to make the initial models. Making them out of ABS or PETG would be a good choice for durability.

Color is not going to be a problem, you can get pretty close.

There are ways of working around some of this, but those ways do make life more difficult.

Harvey


On 6/2/2020 4:50 PM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:
There are no protrusions on the backside but the inner flat rectangular center of the front panel is recessed on the other side just like the front side. In other words the front panel is reversible.
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
Michael W. Lynch via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 6:48 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Dennis,

I am going to take a closer look at some of my TM500 plug ins and see if I can come up with a rough model. Sounds simple enough, as long as the back side of the blank is flat (there are no protrusions). Anything protruding would make the job more difficult. It may seem silly, but one of the most challenging tasks will be to get that thin outer rim of the blank to print properly. Thin sections such as that are problematic. This is where experimentation comes into play.

Another part of the project would be printing a Drill Jig to hold the two parts in perfect alignment, allowing drilling the various holes, so an exact match is achieved.

One of the nice things about 3D printing is that the operator can choose a wide variety of materials to build the model. I tend to use PETG, since the material is easy to print, solvent resistant and is not too brittle. ABS and Nylon are also options. Once the model is done, it is a simple matter to print in whatever color and type material that you wish.

I'm working on a set of cord wrap feet for my "new" 453, once those are complete, I will get on this project. I will let you know what I come up with.

Thanks for the inspiration.




--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

TOPIC CHANGE: TM500 Front Panels; WAS Advice about buying a 7904

 

This has changed into a discussion of TM500 front panels so it was time to change the topic.

Michael:
Contact me off list with your address and I will send you a blank panel
Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Dennis Tillman W7pF
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 1:50 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

There are no protrusions on the backside but the inner flat rectangular center of the front panel is recessed on the other side just like the front side. In other words the front panel is reversible.
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Michael W. Lynch via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2020 6:48 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Advice about buying a 7904

Dennis,

I am going to take a closer look at some of my TM500 plug ins and see if I can come up with a rough model. Sounds simple enough, as long as the back side of the blank is flat (there are no protrusions). Anything protruding would make the job more difficult. It may seem silly, but one of the most challenging tasks will be to get that thin outer rim of the blank to print properly. Thin sections such as that are problematic. This is where experimentation comes into play.

Another part of the project would be printing a Drill Jig to hold the two parts in perfect alignment, allowing drilling the various holes, so an exact match is achieved.

One of the nice things about 3D printing is that the operator can choose a wide variety of materials to build the model. I tend to use PETG, since the material is easy to print, solvent resistant and is not too brittle. ABS and Nylon are also options. Once the model is done, it is a simple matter to print in whatever color and type material that you wish.

I'm working on a set of cord wrap feet for my "new" 453, once those are complete, I will get on this project. I will let you know what I come up with.

Thanks for the inspiration.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, Arkansas





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator





--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator

Re: looking for 5500 uf cap for tek 475

 

It is only an 85°C cap that is already 17 years old.

On 6/2/2020 7:10 PM, Craig Cramb wrote:
tek part number 290-0584-00 . anybody have any to sell?
Ebay listing: 133209786060

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Re: Advice about buying a 7904

Mlynch001
 

Dennis wrote:
It may not be necessary to recess it on the back side to make the design simpler.
On the front it would be highly desirable to have a small hole on every panel for the pull tab to go through.
I found a blank I can send you
Dennis,

Please do send it to me. I will get this designed and print a prototype. I will make sure that you get your sample back after the design phase is completed.

I can provide a rectangular hole for the pull tab and also any other holes that would be present on ALL versions of plug ins. I believe that there are some holes that must be common to all versions. Possibly the 4 screws that hold the front panel to the upper and lower aluminum extrusions?

Looking forward to getting this part designed and printed.

Thanks!

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR