Date   
Re: Simulator

Harvey White
 

This is a part of an off line discussion.  JR has a 465B with the trace off to the right.  From what I can tell, the CRT is ok, and most of the horizontal amp except for the differential stage is more or less (pot adjustable) in balance.

JR simulated the circuit with one simulator, I simulated the first stages with another.  His simulation doesn't seem to agree with reality (let alone the schematic voltages).  Mine (Multisim Blue, since discontinued) agrees with the schematic, but not reality as measured.  We're trying to get the first stage (differential, emitter coupled) to balance.  Having replaced most of the transistors, it's not happening, so he's doing the measuring, and I'm doing the "try to figure out what's going on" part.

Harvey.

Feel free to reply and comment off list.

On 8/6/2019 10:07 AM, Tony Fleming wrote:
Can you point me to the place where you talk about it?
Thank you!
Tony

On Mon, Aug 5, 2019 at 11:19 PM Abc Xyz <yawrdanza@...> wrote:

Harvey,

Did you get s chance to compare my Simulator Voltages with your Simulator
Voltages yet?
JR




Re: 2440 deal

Robert Simpson
 

If I shipped it, I double box ( as those who bought o_scope CRTs know). so at 30 Lbs (item plus packing) boxed dimension 24x18x12. The USPS calculator ground delivery shows $80 from 95630 to Bangor Maine (worst case) Cheaper of course to LA or other (LA would be $45).
Bob

Re: 2440 deal

Bob Albert
 

Well I was hoping to meet and pick it up but that doesn't appear to be an option.  So my investment jumps to $95.  I probably shouldn't do it.
Bob

On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 06:35:55 PM PDT, Robert Simpson via Groups.Io <go_boating_fast=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

If I shipped it, I double box ( as those who bought o_scope CRTs know). so at 30 Lbs (item plus packing) boxed dimension 24x18x12. The USPS calculator ground delivery shows $80 from 95630 to Bangor Maine (worst case) Cheaper of course to LA or other (LA would be $45).
Bob

Re: 2440 deal

Bob Albert
 

Come to think of it, my friend W6TOM in your area has helped me similarly in the past.  Maybe you can connect with him and see if he is planning to go to the hamfest Saturday in Santa Barbara.  If so, he should be willing to bring it down.
Bob818 894-2887

On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 06:35:55 PM PDT, Robert Simpson via Groups.Io <go_boating_fast=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

If I shipped it, I double box ( as those who bought o_scope CRTs know). so at 30 Lbs (item plus packing) boxed dimension 24x18x12. The USPS calculator ground delivery shows $80 from 95630 to Bangor Maine (worst case) Cheaper of course to LA or other (LA would be $45).
Bob

Re: 2440 deal

Robert Simpson
 

Bob (LA) if you really want it, my other Daughter has family down there and goes occasionally.
Bob

Anyone else also interested?

Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Daniel Koller
 

Hi all,
   I have another slightly off topic but on topic question, again related to my car!  You can tell I've been working on and playing with my '67 Mustang convertible lately, and btw after checking it out with my scope, and other trouble shooting, I replaced the ignition coil, and it is running absolutely perfectly now.
  So anyway, years ago, while in high school (and now I mean 30 years ago) I built myself a custom "Benzi Box" for my radio.  It being a convertible, I didn't want the top slashed, so someone could steel the radio.   Using the original dashboard bezel, and some folded metal framework, I built a custom frame and "plug in" for the radios (you can tell how this is related now...).  I have two radios I can simply swap in and out.  One is a Sound Stream AM/FM cassette, the other is the original AM pushbutton radio that came with the car.   A third will soon be a 1970's vintage 8-track.   The plug-in around the radio connects to the frame in the car using a multi-pin connector to carry +12V, ground, stereo left/right  front and back, antenna power, etc.
   Now, the problem is that I used a set of connectors from a Tek 500 plug-in, as I had a few junkers at the time (and I was a bit clueless).   Clearly, these are a bit more valuable to me now.
   The question then, is are there any very *similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity?   Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions.   That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them.   And I'd have something a bit more replaceable for the radios.   I need at least as many pins because they are all used!

  Thanks for the Ideas in advance,  Dan

Re: Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

John Griessen
 

On 8/6/19 11:04 PM, Daniel Koller via Groups.Io wrote:
are there any very*similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity?   Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions.   That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them.
Cinch card edge connectors with 0.156 or so spacing? I have some of those in widths like 8 10 12 pairs of contacts. Can you rig a card edge to stick out of your racks/boxes?

Re: Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Dave Brown
 

Yes and yes. Amphenol make 'em. Probably others as well? A local R/T manufacturer (Tait Electronics) used the red range a lot in their early VHF product so the radio could be just unplugged from the permanently mounted cradle(sound familiar!) They changed to a different connector with a coax insert when they went to 460 MHz gear as the impedance bump in the antenna lead thru the red range jobs was a bit much for up there.
There's a blue range as well- sorry can't recall what they are called just now but they are fairly common. Lots of 16 way here (ex eqpt) if you cant find any.
DaveB, NZ

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Daniel Koller via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2019 16:04
To: TekScopes
Subject: [TekScopes] Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Hi all,
I have another slightly off topic but on topic question, again related to my car! You can tell I've been working on and playing with my '67 Mustang convertible lately, and btw after checking it out with my scope, and other trouble shooting, I replaced the ignition coil, and it is running absolutely perfectly now.
So anyway, years ago, while in high school (and now I mean 30 years ago) I built myself a custom "Benzi Box" for my radio. It being a convertible, I didn't want the top slashed, so someone could steel the radio. Using the original dashboard bezel, and some folded metal framework, I built a custom frame and "plug in" for the radios (you can tell how this is related now...). I have two radios I can simply swap in and out. One is a Sound Stream AM/FM cassette, the other is the original AM pushbutton radio that came with the car. A third will soon be a 1970's vintage 8-track. The plug-in around the radio connects to the frame in the car using a multi-pin connector to carry +12V, ground, stereo left/right front and back, antenna power, etc.
Now, the problem is that I used a set of connectors from a Tek 500 plug-in, as I had a few junkers at the time (and I was a bit clueless). Clearly, these are a bit more valuable to me now.
The question then, is are there any very *similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity? Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions. That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them. And I'd have something a bit more replaceable for the radios. I need at least as many pins because they are all used!

Thanks for the Ideas in advance, Dan

Re: Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Harvey White
 

On 8/7/2019 12:04 AM, Daniel Koller via Groups.Io wrote:
Hi all,
   I have another slightly off topic but on topic question, again related to my car!  You can tell I've been working on and playing with my '67 Mustang convertible lately, and btw after checking it out with my scope, and other trouble shooting, I replaced the ignition coil, and it is running absolutely perfectly now.
  So anyway, years ago, while in high school (and now I mean 30 years ago) I built myself a custom "Benzi Box" for my radio.  It being a convertible, I didn't want the top slashed, so someone could steel the radio.   Using the original dashboard bezel, and some folded metal framework, I built a custom frame and "plug in" for the radios (you can tell how this is related now...).  I have two radios I can simply swap in and out.  One is a Sound Stream AM/FM cassette, the other is the original AM pushbutton radio that came with the car.   A third will soon be a 1970's vintage 8-track.   The plug-in around the radio connects to the frame in the car using a multi-pin connector to carry +12V, ground, stereo left/right  front and back, antenna power, etc.
   Now, the problem is that I used a set of connectors from a Tek 500 plug-in, as I had a few junkers at the time (and I was a bit clueless).   Clearly, these are a bit more valuable to me now.
   The question then, is are there any very *similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity?   Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions.   That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them.   And I'd have something a bit more replaceable for the radios.   I need at least as many pins because they are all used!
IIRC, these are amphenol blue ribbon connectors.  You might want to consider centronics style connectors, which may work.  BTW: I think that old HP equipment used them too, so depending on the age of the equipment, a check on the HP list may help.

A short check of Mouser didn't show any in the catalog.

Harvey


  Thanks for the Ideas in advance,  Dan



Re: Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Dave Brown
 

Further to this- I think the ones Tek used are the 26-4100 series-the ones I have that are slightly different are the 26-4200 series.
DaveB, NZ

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Dave Brown
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2019 16:34
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Yes and yes. Amphenol make 'em. Probably others as well? A local R/T manufacturer (Tait Electronics) used the red range a lot in their early VHF product so the radio could be just unplugged from the permanently mounted cradle(sound familiar!) They changed to a different connector with a coax insert when they went to 460 MHz gear as the impedance bump in the antenna lead thru the red range jobs was a bit much for up there.
There's a blue range as well- sorry can't recall what they are called just now but they are fairly common. Lots of 16 way here (ex eqpt) if you cant find any.
DaveB, NZ



-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Daniel Koller via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2019 16:04
To: TekScopes
Subject: [TekScopes] Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Hi all,
I have another slightly off topic but on topic question, again related to my car! You can tell I've been working on and playing with my '67 Mustang convertible lately, and btw after checking it out with my scope, and other trouble shooting, I replaced the ignition coil, and it is running absolutely perfectly now.
So anyway, years ago, while in high school (and now I mean 30 years ago) I built myself a custom "Benzi Box" for my radio. It being a convertible, I didn't want the top slashed, so someone could steel the radio. Using the original dashboard bezel, and some folded metal framework, I built a custom frame and "plug in" for the radios (you can tell how this is related now...). I have two radios I can simply swap in and out. One is a Sound Stream AM/FM cassette, the other is the original AM pushbutton radio that came with the car. A third will soon be a 1970's vintage 8-track. The plug-in around the radio connects to the frame in the car using a multi-pin connector to carry +12V, ground, stereo left/right front and back, antenna power, etc.
Now, the problem is that I used a set of connectors from a Tek 500 plug-in, as I had a few junkers at the time (and I was a bit clueless). Clearly, these are a bit more valuable to me now.
The question then, is are there any very *similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity? Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions. That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them. And I'd have something a bit more replaceable for the radios. I need at least as many pins because they are all used!

Thanks for the Ideas in advance, Dan

Re: General Radio 874 Connector, inner conductor "bendies"

Richard Knoppow
 

FWIW a description of the 874 appeared in the General Radio Experimenter
https://www.ietlabs.com/pdf/GR_Experimenters/1948/GenRad_Experimenter_Oct_1948.pdf
The patent appears at:
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/22/e8/ad/433a7c35082ad9/US2548457.pdf
This has a fairly detailed drawing.

On 8/6/2019 3:24 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote:
    I looked at a couple of 874 s just now.
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL

Re: O.T. question on MoVs

Dave Seiter
 

Yes, and sometimes the fake markings are better than the real parts.  Back in the late nineties a company I was working for bought a mixed lot of HEXFETS (as I recall) that we desperately needed from a sketchy source, and some started failing.  We discovered that the parts that were failing were laser marked, while the genuine parts were painted.   In 2000 at another company, we found a batch of fake AVX or Kemet Ta caps.  They were marked the same way as the real parts but looked much better.  The kicker was that they came from an A list Disty.
You have to buy from legit sources, and even then be watchful.
-Dave

On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, 05:26:54 PM PDT, Mark Goldberg <marklgoldberg@...> wrote:

I am not sure how to test them non-destructively. I only buy parts from
real distributors, so you know what you are getting. Much of the stuff from
Amazon / Aliexpess / Ebay, especially from international sources is
counterfeit or bad. Markings don't mean anything either as they paint those
on fakes too.

Regards,

Mark

Re: Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Renée
 

I did something similar back in 82 after thieves stole the radio from my 320 BMW....stuff originally used was from Haltek eons ago.
I used (in fact just replaced the female 22pin card edge connector). cinch makes others look at the data sheet/ cinch catalogue. Cardcon .156 series starts on page 2-62. have a gander lots of ideas!
Mouser #:  538-50-44SN-1 should get you close
available in other number of pins too IFIRC  6,10,15,18......
are not cheap, but then quality never is........
remember long after the price is forgotten the quality remains.......
Renée

On 2019-08-06 9:04 p.m., Daniel Koller via Groups.Io wrote:
Hi all,
   I have another slightly off topic but on topic question, again related to my car!  You can tell I've been working on and playing with my '67 Mustang convertible lately, and btw after checking it out with my scope, and other trouble shooting, I replaced the ignition coil, and it is running absolutely perfectly now.
  So anyway, years ago, while in high school (and now I mean 30 years ago) I built myself a custom "Benzi Box" for my radio.  It being a convertible, I didn't want the top slashed, so someone could steel the radio.   Using the original dashboard bezel, and some folded metal framework, I built a custom frame and "plug in" for the radios (you can tell how this is related now...).  I have two radios I can simply swap in and out.  One is a Sound Stream AM/FM cassette, the other is the original AM pushbutton radio that came with the car.   A third will soon be a 1970's vintage 8-track.   The plug-in around the radio connects to the frame in the car using a multi-pin connector to carry +12V, ground, stereo left/right  front and back, antenna power, etc.
   Now, the problem is that I used a set of connectors from a Tek 500 plug-in, as I had a few junkers at the time (and I was a bit clueless).   Clearly, these are a bit more valuable to me now.
   The question then, is are there any very *similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity?   Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions.   That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them.   And I'd have something a bit more replaceable for the radios.   I need at least as many pins because they are all used!

  Thanks for the Ideas in advance,  Dan


.

Re: General Radio 874 Connector, inner conductor "bendies"

Dale H. Cook
 

On 8/6/2019 5:44 PM, Roy Thistle wrote:

My initial question is… Is that normal, or is the center conductor of the connector damaged?
I would pretty much have to look at the actual connector to tell whether that is a trick of lighting or signs of damage. There are no "bendies" on the leaves of a GR-874 inner conductor, just on the outer conductor. You couldn't have anything bent outwards on the inner conductor in any case as that would cause an impedance bump in the skin effect flow of current.

My initial guess is the matching, inserter GR-874, after being rotated, and mated, has damaged the insertee?
GR-874 connectors are not rotated. They are inserted straight into each other and held by friction. GR later introduced locking rings to prevent accidental separation, but GR-874 connectors with or without locking rings will mate with each other.

If so, how does the mated pair maintain 50 ohms?
They do do by presenting smooth surfaces on the outside of the inner conductor and the inside of the outer conductor the same way that any RF connector must do to provide constant impedance.
--
Dale H. Cook, GR/HP/Tek Collector, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA
https://plymouthcolony.net/starcity/radios/

Want to buy: SG-503

satbeginner
 

Hi all,

since my number of 2465xx scopes is growing, and I just love to repair, restore and calibrate these, I now want to buy a SG-503 leveled generator.
Being retired my budget is not huge, and because of that, I prefer a unit being in Europe because of shipping and the import duties.

The unit does not need to work, I think these are quite 'fixable'

Thanks, looking forward to your responses,

Leo

Re: Want to buy: SG-503

Lawrance A. Schneider
 

I wish you were not in Europe (where?) as I’d like to calibrate my2445B and 2465DBM.

larry

On Aug 7, 2019, at 8:28 AM, satbeginner <@satbeginner> wrote:

Hi all,

since my number of 2465xx scopes is growing, and I just love to repair, restore and calibrate these, I now want to buy a SG-503 leveled generator.
Being retired my budget is not huge, and because of that, I prefer a unit being in Europe because of shipping and the import duties.

The unit does not need to work, I think these are quite 'fixable'

Thanks, looking forward to your responses,

Leo


Re: Want to buy: SG-503

satbeginner
 

Hi, I am Dutch, but I live in Spain.

Re: Tek 500 connectors or similar? A bit off topic!!!

Daniel Koller
 

Hi All, 
  Thanks for the advice.
  Yes, it appears the Amphenol connectos in the 500 series are series 26 connectors.   Probably the *easiest* thing for me to do is to keep using them.    There are used ones available on e-bay for $12.95, likely harvested from a Tek scope.   But this is like organ harvesting.   If I buy that one on e-bay, do I encourage someone to strip them out of good, working plug-ins that might otherwise get sold intact to a wanting collector?  It's like the ivory trade - I'd hate to encourage it.  But on the flip side, if I keep using the connector I started with then it's a whole lot easier on me.   
  The best bet it seems would be to use one of those Amphenol Series 26-4200 connectors mentioned They omit the alignment/polarity pins of the 4100 used in the Tek plugins.  But I note that they are about double the price of the used 16 pin 4100 male on e-bay.   Arg.  It costs a lot of money to be ethical!
  Dan

On Wednesday, August 7, 2019, 01:47:06 AM EDT, Renée <@rjdeeter> wrote:

I did something similar back in 82 after thieves stole the radio from my
320 BMW....stuff originally used was from Haltek eons ago.
I used (in fact just replaced the female 22pin card edge connector).
cinch makes others look at the data sheet/ cinch catalogue. Cardcon .156
series starts on page 2-62. have a gander lots of ideas!
Mouser #:  538-50-44SN-1 should get you close
available in other number of pins too IFIRC  6,10,15,18......
are not cheap, but then quality never is........
remember long after the price is forgotten the quality remains.......
Renée


On 2019-08-06 9:04 p.m., Daniel Koller via Groups.Io wrote:
Hi all,
     I have another slightly off topic but on topic question, again related to my car!  You can tell I've been working on and playing with my '67 Mustang convertible lately, and btw after checking it out with my scope, and other trouble shooting, I replaced the ignition coil, and it is running absolutely perfectly now.
    So anyway, years ago, while in high school (and now I mean 30 years ago) I built myself a custom "Benzi Box" for my radio.  It being a convertible, I didn't want the top slashed, so someone could steel the radio.   Using the original dashboard bezel, and some folded metal framework, I built a custom frame and "plug in" for the radios (you can tell how this is related now...).  I have two radios I can simply swap in and out.  One is a Sound Stream AM/FM cassette, the other is the original AM pushbutton radio that came with the car.   A third will soon be a 1970's vintage 8-track.   The plug-in around the radio connects to the frame in the car using a multi-pin connector to carry +12V, ground, stereo left/right  front and back, antenna power, etc.
     Now, the problem is that I used a set of connectors from a Tek 500 plug-in, as I had a few junkers at the time (and I was a bit clueless).   Clearly, these are a bit more valuable to me now.
     The question then, is are there any very *similar* connectors to the Amphenol blue Tek 500 plug in connectors that would serve in a similar capacity?   Prefereably they would be commonly available, and be a relatively simple swap for bot the male and female versions.   That would allow me to pull the two males and one female out of my radios and use them to fix the damaged connectors on a couple of Tek 500 plug-ins that need them.   And I'd have something a bit more replaceable for the radios.   I need at least as many pins because they are all used!

    Thanks for the Ideas in advance,  Dan



.

Re: Want to buy: SG-503

Lawrance A. Schneider
 

Well, if you ever want to see Maine, bring your calibration stuff and I’ll give you a place to stay. I live on a lake!

larry

On Aug 7, 2019, at 8:39 AM, satbeginner <@satbeginner> wrote:

Hi, I am Dutch, but I live in Spain.


Re: 2445 LVPS Issues

John Bennett
 

Chuck Harris's advice is spot on, but the plastic collet around the motor shaft that attaches to the fan is old and very brittle, and it breaks easily. When mine broke, I ripped out motor and fan, and replaced with a Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX 12V fan ($15 from Amazon). This requires milling the back cover, and inserting a 39ohm 2W (value experimentally determined for this fan under load) resistor to drop the existing motor 15V to 12V. The wire harness that comes with the Noctua fan makes this easy (cut the yellow wire in the harness when you replace the resistor). Upside is good airflow and quiet fan. Link to pictures: https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=94011
john - AE0AM