Date   

OT: phantom 3 phase leakage?

Dave Seiter
 

Tek content:  I made the VFD enclosure for this project from an empty 5K scope carcass that was reduced to about 5x6" and shortened. I was hoping to move some of the 1/4 turn locks, but found that I would have to make a die to make impressions in the sheet metal in order to install them.  That might be a fun project as I have always liked those panel locks.
The question:  I added a VFD to a 3 phase surface grinder and discovered at the end of the testing process that the entire chassis was apparently hot according to one of those non-contact AC sniffers.  Try as I might, I can't find a DC path between the 3 phase wiring and the chassis using continuity or resistance tests (up to 10Mohm).  I even tried spinning the shaft by hand (a long shot, but no change in continuity).  The voltage input is split 220VAC (L1 + L2) dryer circuit, and it's currently ungrounded.  I have a horizontal mill that is wired exactly the same way, and it behaves correctly.  The VFD is set to run at 60 Hz all the time.  I've heard that these sniffers can sometimes pick up noise, but I would expect the other installation to behave the same way.  
Suggestions?  (Yes, I will eventually ground both machines)
-Dave


Hall-Effect Sensor Replacement for Siemen's Fan Motor in 2465A DV

Robert Calk Jr.
 

Hello Guys,

Has anyone researched and found a good replacement for the Hall-Effect sensors in the Siemen's fan motor #1AD3001-0A? I am rebuilding my fan motor because it started making some noises a while back. I am also writing detailed repair articles on it. Part 1 should be up on my friends' electronics repair blog in a week or so at www.jestineyong.com.

I am waiting on my Oilite spherical bronze bushings to be made right now before I can finish Part 2, where I put it back together. In Part 3, I will test and scope it on my bench.

I bought a book, "Hall Effect Transducers", that was written in 1982 to study up on them and try to figure out what kind Siemen's used. It would be a great help if one of yall already found a good replacement because I know that most of yall are light years ahead of me in electronics.

My fan motor was working ok when I removed it so the sensors are good. But it would be more reliable if I changed them with new ones before it goes back into my scope. I could not find any numbers on them anywhere. Also Siemen's had no info on the fan motors but said they sold the rights to Continental. I called Continental and they said they trashed everything they had. Also, Tektronix had nothing.

Any help would be appreciated.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thanks,

Robert


Re: AVR Scope Clock

John Clark
 

Raymond,
Yeah, everything is installed (no leftover parts, lol) and I triple checked all components before soldering to make sure I had the right ones in the right place.

It may not be quite 60 seconds per day. I didn't check it that closely. I've just noticed after a few days that I'm a couple minutes fast. I do unplug the clock board and turn off the scope at night and sometimes don't turn it on for a day or so. It would just be running on the battery during that time.

The old Bluetooth GPS is great because it hasn't been used in ages and now it, once again, it too, has a new purpose in life. Besides, if you need one they can be had for less than $20 on eBay.

John
________________________________
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> on behalf of Raymond Domp Frank <hewpatek@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 10:29 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] AVR Scope Clock

On Fri, Dec 21, 2018 at 02:19 AM, John Clark wrote:


I found the clock was running fast, somewhere around 30-60 seconds per day.
Hi John,
Nice idea to use a BT-GPS. OTOH, 30 - 60 s/day fast is a suspiciously/impossibly large deviation for the built-in quartz crystal oscillator. 350-700 ppm?? No way...
Are you sure C3 and C4 (the two caps on the quartz crystal) are in? Your 20 MHz quartz could be defective as well, though not likely.

Raymond


Re: looking for 2465 service manual

Robert Calk Jr.
 

Hi Garry,

I printed my own operators and service manuals for my 2465A DV. Maybe you may want to print your own like I did. I am like you as I prefer reading from print rather than a computer screen.

Your scope has the Siemen's Hall-Effect sensor controlled fan motor, right? That is what mine has, #1AD3001-0A.


Re: Non-Acidic rust remover

Scott McGrath
 

Second on EvapoRust for irreplaceable metal parts, Ordinary fasteners, simply remove them

Content by Scott
Typos by Siri


Re: Non-Acidic rust remover

Richard Solomon <dickw1ksz@...>
 

If it was my scope, I would just buy new
hardware.

73 es HH, Dick, W1KSZ

On Thu, Dec 20, 2018, 8:28 PM Glenn Little <glennmaillist@bellsouth.net
wrote:

Evaporust is a great PH neutral deruster.
It only attacks the rust.
I would remove the rusty hardware and soak it in evaporust.
Then remove and wash with water then spray with a silicon based spray.
This has helped me with hardware that I can find replacements for.

Glenn

On 12/20/2018 9:21 PM, David C. Partridge wrote:
The 7854 power supply I'm working on has a lot of rusty nuts and bolts.

I don't want to slosh something like phosphoric acid around in there.
Are
there any rust removers that are OK to use around electronics?

Thanks
David




--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Little ARRL Technical Specialist QCWA LM 28417
Amateur Callsign: WB4UIV wb4uiv@arrl.net AMSAT LM 2178
QTH: Goose Creek, SC USA (EM92xx) USSVI LM NRA LM SBE ARRL TAPR
"It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class
of the Amateur that holds the license"





Re: AVR Scope Clock

 

On Fri, Dec 21, 2018 at 02:19 AM, John Clark wrote:


I found the clock was running fast, somewhere around 30-60 seconds per day.
Hi John,
Nice idea to use a BT-GPS. OTOH, 30 - 60 s/day fast is a suspiciously/impossibly large deviation for the built-in quartz crystal oscillator. 350-700 ppm?? No way...
Are you sure C3 and C4 (the two caps on the quartz crystal) are in? Your 20 MHz quartz could be defective as well, though not likely.

Raymond


Re: Non-Acidic rust remover

Glenn Little
 

Evaporust is a great PH neutral deruster.
It only attacks the rust.
I would remove the rusty hardware and soak it in evaporust.
Then remove and wash with water then spray with a silicon based spray.
This has helped me with hardware that I can find replacements for.

Glenn

On 12/20/2018 9:21 PM, David C. Partridge wrote:
The 7854 power supply I'm working on has a lot of rusty nuts and bolts.

I don't want to slosh something like phosphoric acid around in there. Are
there any rust removers that are OK to use around electronics?

Thanks
David



--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Glenn Little ARRL Technical Specialist QCWA LM 28417
Amateur Callsign: WB4UIV wb4uiv@arrl.net AMSAT LM 2178
QTH: Goose Creek, SC USA (EM92xx) USSVI LM NRA LM SBE ARRL TAPR
"It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class
of the Amateur that holds the license"


Re: Non-Acidic rust remover

Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
 

Generally chemical rust removers are a problem, unless you
can liberally hose the unit down with a rinsing solution and
a water displacement solution.

I tend more towards oils and mechanical removal of the rust.

Be a touch careful with things like PB Blaster and Kroil. They
soften up the rust, but also are attractive to moisture, and seem
to be corrosive over time.

-Chuck Harris

David C. Partridge wrote:

The 7854 power supply I'm working on has a lot of rusty nuts and bolts.

I don't want to slosh something like phosphoric acid around in there. Are
there any rust removers that are OK to use around electronics?

Thanks
David





Non-Acidic rust remover

 

The 7854 power supply I'm working on has a lot of rusty nuts and bolts.

I don't want to slosh something like phosphoric acid around in there. Are
there any rust removers that are OK to use around electronics?

Thanks
David


Re: AVR Scope Clock

John Clark
 

Another small update on this. I found the clock was running fast, somewhere around 30-60 seconds per day. So I set out for a solution (low cost, of course.) I found an old GlobalSat BT-359 in a box that I used back in the day for bluetooth GPS to some small Fujitsu laptops we used in our company airplanes during the early days of going to paperless nav charts (before iPads.) Only problem is, it's bluetooth and the scope clock needs serial data. However, I opened it up and found loads of test points on the board so I figured there might be some hope! I started probing around with my 314 and found some points that looked like the right data but I wasn't sure. I then found this thread on the Arduino forums. See specifically post #3:

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=22506.0

So, probing TP4 showed a 3.3v data signal with some kind of additional pulse on it at that appeared about once per second. So, I gave it a shot. I soldered a wire to TP4, as well as a ground wire and hooked TP4 up to the middle pin of the RXRoute header on the clock board and the other wire to ground on the clock board. I set my local Zulu offset in the clock's GPS settings , as well as the proper baud rate and voila! The time updated! Just as the Arduino forum post said, I had to use 38400 baud rather than the 4800 that Dutchtronix recommended but within a few seconds the clock flashed "G" for about 4-5 seconds and reset the time.

Now the scope clock updates itself automatically from the small bluetooth GPS

John

________________________________
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> on behalf of John Clark <johnclark05@outlook.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 5:02 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] AVR Scope Clock

If anyone else is interested it looks like he has these AVR clock kits back in stock and available to order online. Every time I've looked they've been out of stock.

http://www.dutchtronix.com/ScopeClockH3-1-Enhanced.htm


Re: AVR Scope Clock

John Clark
 

If anyone else is interested it looks like he has these AVR clock kits back in stock and available to order online. Every time I've looked they've been out of stock.

http://www.dutchtronix.com/ScopeClockH3-1-Enhanced.htm


Re: 7854 readout and stored waveform jitter

Fred S.
 

I can believe that if the LF13333N is going flakey that the display might jitter some, it's used to switch between sweep and digital signals.

Dave
toggle quoted message. . .


It took very long to get some LF13333Ns. But it did not cause the jitter. Any other ideas?

--
Best regards,

Fred S.


Re: vintageTEK museum releases Replaceable Parts Registry (RPR)

Dave Daniel
 

If you want to provide information about a particular instrument and am not completely comfortable with English I, for one, would be more than willing to “edit” your entry to make it readable. The point is that the more (accurate) information that is captured, the better our information resources become.

Also, you would probanly be surprised at how useful an ill-written entry is as long as the information is correct.

DaveD

Sent from a small flat thingy

On Dec 20, 2018, at 11:32, mattko87 <matt8@hotmail.de> wrote:

Great thanks for you !

It is helpfull for editing by TekWiki.
But sadly, it give not 100% information (specially Txxxx suffix).

Result (only example)
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/T5032 (with my not so good english, it's not my mother language)
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/T5470
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/T5611

Best regards
matt



Re: vintageTEK museum releases Replaceable Parts Registry (RPR)

mattko87
 

Great thanks for you !

It is helpfull for editing by TekWiki.
But sadly, it give not 100% information (specially Txxxx suffix).

Result (only example)
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/T5032 (with my not so good english, it's not my mother language)
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/T5470
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/T5611

Best regards
matt


Re: 468 still

Brendan
 

lop pol
Dec 17 #153208

Im still troubleshooting my 468. My schematic is blurry and I was wondering if anyone could tell me the proper voltage at the base of Q958 and Q987A on the A15 board. I have 15V on one side of R971 but he other side is wildly fluctuating between 9V and 12V I don't think thats right. Thanks guys.


On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 07:25 PM, Michael Wyatt wrote:


I was finally able to log in today. I posted the pics of the A15 board here:

https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/78665/0?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0

Hope this helps.
Michael
Thank you so much Michael. I can finally read the A15 voltages!! Also thank you Jeff for the awesome site. I love this group. Thanks again guys.


Re: S-2 sampling head fault symptoms

cmjones01
 

On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 02:23 PM, Dave Wise wrote:
Note that BAT2402 can only take 4V. I don't know about the S-2, but you'd
have to string two in series for the 1S1. Hard to do with that microscopic
leadless package.
The BAT2402s have arrived and they are indeed alarmingly tiny. Microscope and fine soldering bit are called for. I don't know whether the 4V reverse rating will be enough for the S-2. The 'bridge voltage' in the off state is set to just under 5V, which appears in reverse across both diodes in the bridge. It ought to be OK but I wouldn't be surprised if odd things happened during switch-off.

I'll try single diodes first, and only tackle doubling them up if that doesn't work right.

Chris


Re: 468 still

Michael Wyatt
 

I was finally able to log in today. I posted the pics of the A15 board here:

https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/78665/0?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0

Hope this helps.
Michael


Re: 468 still

Brendan
 

On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 03:56 PM, Jeff Urban wrote:


The one here:

http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/Tek/

Seems to be good enough. Not color but looks pretty good. It is about 40% of
the way down the page. Two parts, looks like 1 is theory of operation and all
that, didn't see the tunnel diode tutorial but you know how they are. All the
schematics seem to be in 2. You could just about skip a year of engineering
school reading those things. So if nothing else you need part 2. The whole
thing is about 300MB.

Couldn't find R970 on the print, where is it ?
lop pol
Dec 17 #153208

Im still troubleshooting my 468. My schematic is blurry and I was wondering if anyone could tell me the proper voltage at the base of Q958 and Q987A on the A15 board. I have 15V on one side of R971 but he other side is wildly fluctuating between 9V and 12V I don't think thats right. Thanks guys.

Colin Herbert
5:24am #153239

I have both Tektronix Service manuals for the 486. Volume 2 is P/N 070-3516-00 and the latest revision is December 1982. On schematic #8 it shows +13.0V at the bases of Q958 and Q987A. Bear in mind that R971 connects to the +15V bus at one end, but then goes to chassis via R970 (the B sweep start pot) and R972. So, the voltage on the slider will vary according to the position of the slider of R970. If my arithmetic is correct this variation will be 12-13V, so your maximum 12V is low and your minimum 9V is also low. Maybe R970 has a dirty track?
Colin.






Here is R970 on the A15 board. https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/80501/0?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0

This is where I'm at.

I have a trace that is too short horizontally the beginning of the trace lengthens and contracts intermittently. The 15V side of r971 is dead on 15V the other side bounces anywhere from 9V to 12V. C869,C874,C848,C776 and R970 have been changed. Along with 90% of tantalums on the A12 board and Both power supplies recapped. I'm just in so deep I can't give up. Too stubborn to quit too dumb to fix it.


Re: 468 still

 

The one here:

http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/Tek/

Seems to be good enough. Not color but looks pretty good. It is about 40% of the way down the page. Two parts, looks like 1 is theory of operation and all that, didn't see the tunnel diode tutorial but you know how they are. All the schematics seem to be in 2. You could just about skip a year of engineering school reading those things. So if nothing else you need part 2. The whole thing is about 300MB.

Couldn't find R970 on the print, where is it ?

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