Date   
Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

David Kuhn
 

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928 setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST



Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

Dave Wise
 

I fixed my mechanical 7A13, but maybe it was lucky. If it's cheap or free, take it anyway; you can always monitor externally. Or maybe you'll be the one to design a retrofit.

Dave Wise
________________________________________
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> on behalf of Dennis Tillman W7PF <@Dennis_Tillman_W7PF>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2018 4:01 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

Hi Fabio,

Raymond is partially correct.

A 7D14 does not measure period. It is strictly a high frequency (512MHz) counter.
The 7D15 is a universal counter / timer. As such it is far more flexible. It will automatically monitor the trigger signal if it is in a horizontal slot but it CAN also be used in a vertical or slot by connecting the signal being measured by the vertical plugin to the A or B input of the 7D15.

Your choice would depend on what you want to do. Several people have recommended the 7A13. I can add one more important who has told me on several occasions that he thinks the 7A13 is the most useful plugin. That would be the design engineer of the 7A16A, 7A18, 7A24, 7A25 (not produced), and 7A26 plugins, and the 7854 scope.

I like the 7A13 also, and, like you, I was annoyed for many years with the empty slot in my 7704A. I solved the empty slot a long time ago. Unfortunately, I didn't know when to stop.

If you purchase a 7A13 make sure to get one of the digital ones. The plastic used to make the gears in the mechanical 7A13 expand over time and crack off their axle or jam up. This can't be fixed.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

I'm trying to ascertain if my unit is faulty, not trying to change my
working habits.
It's a shared space for ~5 guys working on various things, from
development stuff to office tasks, including phone calls.
Despite the fairly large room it's very disturbing, even on the other
end (~20m away).
Even if I was just working by myself at home this level of noise would
be a no-go, it's like a vacuum cleaner.

I can't see how this is OK even in a production environment, unless it
was very loud with hearing protection worn anyway.

As for making a venturi work quietly, you just put a silencer on the
output, it is quite simple.
Sure you need to use one that doesn't put up much flow resistance, but
that's all.
The chinese station sucks about -0.8 bar, the Metcal about -0.6 bar,
so less blocked-off vacuum, I will do exact measuremetns and flow
tests tomorrow.
I'll also play around with some sound dampening material, but as it
is, it's going back for sure.

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 5:46 PM EricJ via Groups.Io
<wyzkydd2358=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I'm not quite sure how a venturi desoldering iron could work very well without making more than 60dbA. I almost have that much background noise in my house with fans and refrigerator running. Even a very very quiet library is 40+ish dbA. How does your Chinese unit WORK compared to the Metcal? I guess to me, the sound level just isn't objectionable, but then I spent more time in heavy industrial manufacturing environment than in quiet offices - for decades. Not sure how the conversation is applicable - if you're working you shouldn't be doing much talking. Is this not a working space? And desoldering is normally a couple quick bursts and you're done. Total cumulative time the air is flowing is seconds per joint. If you don't like it, guess it's just not for you.
--Eric

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928 setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST




Yig info needed YIG-Tek 173

 

I have a Yig-Tek filter, seems to be new, but I cannot find any info on it, or even a Yig-tek catalog.
Does any one have any info on a Model 173 ? It has sma in and out, and has 4 bottom connections, marked +/-, but nothing further. presumably one pair is the heater, and one for tuning but I am not sure what is reasonable for applied voltage and current. any help appreciated! off list is best, at the address below.

all the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.

TDS210, schematic and parts required.

Graham Butcher
 

I have 3 of these TDS210 digital scopes, all are now working OK after I replaced the main board in that had acquisition problems, it kept failing at boot time, so I purchased another from Ebay.

I have hunted high and low looking a for schematic for these and cannot find anything. I have the service and the owners manuals that I found on line. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a schematic from as I'd like to try and repair the old board and keep as a spare?

I also would like to source 2 of the screws that hold the front and back casings together at the top, 2 rubber feet from the back and the 2 from the front and one of the smaller knobs for the top row of encoders and one of the tubular grounding springs/braid that goes between the main PCB and the casing please.

Regards Graham

Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

fiftythreebuick
 

Hi Fabio-

I would definitely recommend a 7A13. I keep a pair of those in the 7623A that's on my bench and I find them extremely useful and versatile. The later ones have a digital display of the offset voltage. When you need DC coupling AND the ability to see a very small signal riding on top of a large DC voltage, the 7A13 really shines. For checking ripple/stability of a power supply rail, as well.

Tom

Re: TDS210, schematic and parts required.

Colin Herbert
 

Did you try the most likely source?

http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/TDS210

Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Graham Butcher
Sent: 06 September 2018 14:08
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: [TekScopes] TDS210, schematic and parts required.

I have 3 of these TDS210 digital scopes, all are now working OK after I replaced the main board in that had acquisition problems, it kept failing at boot time, so I purchased another from Ebay.

I have hunted high and low looking a for schematic for these and cannot find anything. I have the service and the owners manuals that I found on line. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a schematic from as I'd like to try and repair the old board and keep as a spare?

I also would like to source 2 of the screws that hold the front and back casings together at the top, 2 rubber feet from the back and the 2 from the front and one of the smaller knobs for the top row of encoders and one of the tubular grounding springs/braid that goes between the main PCB and the casing please.

Regards Graham

Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

stefan_trethan
 

The 7D22 is great for low frequency stuff, there isn't much that I'd
rather use to measure small signals, even today.
Same circuit as the AM502. For some reason I find myself using that
far more often than the 7A13 (or DA1855 at work).

The 7D20 is also still a useful, if very basic, digital scope. I'd
fire that up above the fully analog mainframe any day.

Looks like you need not only something to fill that slot Fabio, but
also another mainframe to put on top ;-)

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:37 PM fiftythreebuick <ae5i@...> wrote:

Hi Fabio-

I would definitely recommend a 7A13. I keep a pair of those in the 7623A that's on my bench and I find them extremely useful and versatile. The later ones have a digital display of the offset voltage. When you need DC coupling AND the ability to see a very small signal riding on top of a large DC voltage, the 7A13 really shines. For checking ripple/stability of a power supply rail, as well.

Tom


Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

bobh@joba.com
 

Raymond,

Here's a link to an article on modifying a 5CT1N. I would like to mod mine but haven't got a round tuit. Not sure if the article is by the fellow you referred to.

http://www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2017/12/building-curve-tracer.html

Bob.

-----Original Message-----
From: Raymond Domp Frank
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2018 7:23 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 04:08 AM, Harvey White wrote:


I do like the 7CT1N
So do I. I sold mine, for the following reasons:
- I have both a 576 and 577 dedicated curve tracer
- A while ago I bought a "home-made" 5CT1N-like module (yes, for the 5000-series), designed and built by an ex-Tek employee. The 5CT1N module, having no readout (hence -N), exists for the non-readout, slow 5000 mainframes but this one is equipped with read-out functionality, built with 7000-readout components. This allows digital, on-screen readout for step, horizontal /div. and vertical /div. All hand-wired, no copper traces! Multi-position switches instead of pots for selection.

Raymond

Re: TDS210, schematic and parts required.

Graham Butcher
 

Yes I did try there and thats where I downloaded the user and service manuals but it has no schematics (in fact it has a request just below the tag for the manuals requesting schematics to be uploaded) It also of course does not provide any linkage or reference to spare parts unless I missed something?

Graham

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

David Kuhn
 

" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST






Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

Renée
 

I have had the GFCI outlets fail in my kitchen where they trip rather than operate the toaster!
Renée

On 2018-09-06 10:19 AM, David Kuhn wrote:
" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.
I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST




Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

It could be that the heater wire is deforming as it heats up and
touching the metal housing somewhere, that could trip the GFI and
might not even show up on an insulation test.
We don't have GFI outlets here, just central GFIs in the distribution
panels. Used to be just a single three phase one for the whole house
(30mA) but now several are required.
They rarely fail but last year I had a bad one right out of the box.
It was only tripping intermittently (most dangerous), but luckily the
work experience lad who was wiring the distribution panel caught it.
Probably a mechanical issue since I could hear something rattling
around inside, and after some shaking it did not exhibit the fault any
more, but of course I changed it anyway.
I guess I should buy a different brand where I was shown on a factory
tour that they assemble the core mechanism in a cleanroom, but I'm
cheap too.....

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 7:20 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST







Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

ArtekManuals
 

Dave

 I have had GFCI outlets fail before so also a possibility.

You likely have other GFCI outlets in house ( kitchen or bathroom , even outside on back porch) take the station out and temporarily plug it into a different GFCI circuit. If it trips that then you know there is a problem with the hot air station

Dave

On 9/6/2018 1:19 PM, David Kuhn wrote:
" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.
I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST




--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com

Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

 

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 07:02 PM, Robert Hay wrote:

Hi Bob,

Not sure if the article is by the fellow you referred to.
It most certainly is!

Here is a link to the stuff I purchased from him:

http://www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2017/08/my-version-of-tektronix-5ct1n-curve.html

Thanks very much for finding this!

Raymond

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

David Kuhn
 

" different GFCI circuit. If it trips that then you know there is a
problem with the hot air station "

Yes, it trips twp different GFCI outlet after its run for a few minutes.

I guess I just need to find a non-GFCI outlet and run a 100' cord in to the
shop - lol.

Anyone ever measure how many amps these Chinese Hot Air guns draw when
running? I would assume it's not close to 20 amps?

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 2:16 PM Artekmedia <manuals@...> wrote:

Dave

I have had GFCI outlets fail before so also a possibility.

You likely have other GFCI outlets in house ( kitchen or bathroom , even
outside on back porch) take the station out and temporarily plug it into
a different GFCI circuit. If it trips that then you know there is a
problem with the hot air station

Dave


On 9/6/2018 1:19 PM, David Kuhn wrote:
" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran
the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.
I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really
necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make
hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the
basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system
that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST





--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com





Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

David Kuhn
 

" but I'm cheap too..... "

LOL, same here. I should take it apart an make sure they don't have the
hot and neutral swapped when they wired it for US use. I would really
doubt that.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 2:02 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

It could be that the heater wire is deforming as it heats up and
touching the metal housing somewhere, that could trip the GFI and
might not even show up on an insulation test.
We don't have GFI outlets here, just central GFIs in the distribution
panels. Used to be just a single three phase one for the whole house
(30mA) but now several are required.
They rarely fail but last year I had a bad one right out of the box.
It was only tripping intermittently (most dangerous), but luckily the
work experience lad who was wiring the distribution panel caught it.
Probably a mechanical issue since I could hear something rattling
around inside, and after some shaking it did not exhibit the fault any
more, but of course I changed it anyway.
I guess I should buy a different brand where I was shown on a factory
tour that they assemble the core mechanism in a cleanroom, but I'm
cheap too.....

ST
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 7:20 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran
the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick.
The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really
necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I
use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like
it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It
make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the
basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system
that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...
wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot
into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST









Re: TDS3032 Loosing its GPIB Address

 


Question: Can the firmware be updated through the GPIB? The only way I know is through the floppy drive.
Not that I know of

Please tell me that Dallas DRAM (grrrr) is socketed and not soldered to the PCB?
All the ones I've seen were soldered to the board

I think I can get Dallas DRAMS from China, but I imagine they are just as
old NOS with dying batteries in them? Can you kindly confirm the I.C. part number?
If you mean Tek P/N I have no idea, if you mean the Dallas number, yes it is DS1742W-150

/Håkan

Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

Pete Lancashire
 

I see someone suggest a 7D02 you can use it in a 7603 but be very careful
it exceeds the power supplies capability yes exceeds. You will affect with
me smoke are at the best shorten the life of any 4-hole Mainframe.

And I have proof of that many times in my years at Tech I actually saw a
7.2 set a Mainframe almost on fire.

If you have the room go with a company that knows how to make logic
analyzers HP. The best deal out there right now is the 16702B. If you take
your time you can get amazing cards for it. Over the years I have filled
two of them for less than $300.

That's my opinion take it or leave it

On Wed, Sep 5, 2018, 6:31 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

On Wed, 05 Sep 2018 17:29:59 -0700, you wrote:

Crap, now you guys have added to my wishlist the 7D20 and 7A13! Oops, I
spoke too soon, the 7A13 is already on the wishlist!
7D20 has a GPIB connection, so I gotta have one someday. The wife will
question my impeccable logic...
Jim
<evil laugh>


Now, also consider, if you do some digital, the 7A42 is a 4 channel
plugin with combinational logic triggering. It is useful if you don't
have a separate logic analyzer. Having said that, I *do* have a logic
analyzer, and I've never used mine (the 7A42).

There's essentially three directions you can go into with electronics
design. 1) digital 2) RF 3) general purpose.

For Digital:

7A26 (a pair of them), 7D20 (yes, and even though you have a storage
scope, a digital storage scope provides a longer lasting trace). 7D02
*if* you deal with microprocessors and they're old ones (anything
newer than an AVR and including an AVR, Pic, etc... any
microcontroller, a 7D02 is likely to be less useful.) 7A42.

for RF: Consider any of the 7L spectrum analyzers depending on the
frequencies you want to play with. Not quite my field, and there are
other analyzers out there with better specs, ask the RF types.

General: Here's where the 7A13 comes in, for the low level,
moderately low frequency differential measurements (ripple on a power
supply, etc.) The 7A22 has different bandwidth filters, and less neat
offset capability. The 7A26 allows two more analog channels. 7A18
can also be considered if you only want 75 Mhz bandwidth.

When doing digital, you often want to look at more than four signals.
At this point, a logic analyzer is really your best bet (and I assume
all the signals are digital in nature). As a separate piece of
equipment, you'd want one that has at least 32 channels, and yes, I do
use that many. (monitoring *all* the ports on an ARM processor, with
one that has 4 16 bit ports, well, you need 64 data inputs. Even
though the processor I use (format wise) doesn't have a complete set
of the last 16 bits in a port, it still takes 16 bits capability, so
64 bits).

When doing RF: If you're a ham, then anything up to 1.2 Ghz covers
most of the bands you'd use, but above that means you're doing some
specialized (IMHO) microwave work. YMMV on this.

If you're doing Digital, or general purpose, and you are doing either
B, G, or N WiFi, or you're doing NRF24xxx 2.4 GHz RF, you may want a
spectrum analyzer that goes to about 3 GHz, but certainly takes in the
2.4 to 2.5 Ghz band. There are ways of working around this, but
still, much nicer.

General purpose has the fewest real specialized plugins, but the 7a13
(and mine are all digital because I *like* digital) are useful, as are
the 7A22. Again, the 7A22 has a whole host of bandwidth filters to
allow you to look at a specific frequency. There are HF filters and
low frequency filters so you could look at a specific bandwith in the
face of other frequencies, and still get a good idea.

There's other stuff out there, too, I'm sure.

I do a lot of digital, some general purpose, and not a lot of RF.

The 7904 I have is very useful, as is the Agilent 16702B logic
analyzer.

My more or less favorite load on a 7904 is a 7A26, 7D12 with an M2
plugin (sampling), a 7D15 in a horizontal slot, and a 7B92A in the
last horizontal slot. That, of course, varies.

Harvey




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Raymond Domp Frank <
@Raymond> Date: 9/5/18 4:49 PM (GMT-08:00) To:
TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7K series - Conceptual
question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:14 AM, Harvey White wrote:


You can likely feed
the counter from the vertical signal output
Yes, you can. For a permanent setup, like Fabio seems to want, I wouldn't
like a BNC plug in the socket on the front all the time but a counter *is*
very useful.
A 7D20, effectively converting the 7623A into a digital 'scope with its
own digital storage, isn't a good match for the analog storage
functionality of the 7623A. In a 7603, a 7D20 makes for a very nice 'scope.
The 7D20 is very much "analog-like".

Raymond