Date   
Re: Chance to win a Rohde 3Ghz DSA

Converter
 

I chose my Ukrainian address from the list and I received confirmation of the acceptance of the application. I have not seen anywhere that this is only for residents of the US and Canada.


On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 4:43 PM, 'Toelle, Magnus' magnustoelle@... mailto:magnustoelle@...
[TekScopes] <TekScopes@... mailto:TekScopes@...> wrote:

> Thanks - but allow me to add that this is for US and Canadian residents
only. To my regrets...

Cheers,

Magnus

Type 130 L-C meter calibration

Colin Herbert
 

Hi,
After obtaining a S-30 Delta Standards to continue the calibration of my Type 130, I have run into something that I don't understand concerning the adjustment of T1 and ADJ. 2 (item #6 on P6-6 of the manual). there are six steps, a to f. The first three steps are fairly straightforward, but then step (d) is a little odd. The manual states that after setting the S-30 to 300uH with the Type 130 also at 300uH, one should:
"Note the meter reading. Adjust the Type 130 T1 screwdriver adjust slug to increase the meter deviation (error) from 300uH by a factor of three. Adjust T1 so that the greater error is on the same side of 300uH meter reading as first noted".
If I am reading this correctly, it seems counterintuitive to me. It reads that you should increase the meter deviation from the ideal point, rather than decrease it. Is this correct and will the procedure result in calibrating correctly? I am puzzled. Has anyone else calibrated a Type 130 and understood this step?
TIA, Colin.

Re: 2235 Trigger on one channel

Kevin Clark
 

Hi Adrian

Thanks, yes I had spotted these already but drew a deep breath at the price of
nearly £20 for 1, when these were in manufacture they were probably more like
£0.75. They can be found with prices ranging from about $4 but its the shipping
that kills it. There was one link from Tom Jobe that i might go for as it was 2
chips for about $13 inc shipping.

Still like some feedback from the group on their thoughts of swapping the two
chips in the board to see if the fault moves with the chip that's perceived to
be 'at fault'.

Kevin

On 18 May 2017 at 20:20 "Adrian Nicol fenland787a@... [TekScopes]"
<TekScopes@...> wrote:



Hi Kevin,I've used an ebay seller here in the UK called 'LittleDiode' for
older standard parts and had good service and no problems. They have some
CA3102E's listed at the moment.As to telling fakes - 1960's chips with nice
crisp laser markings ring alarm bells for me!

Regards,Adrian

On Thursday, May 18, 2017 1:46 PM, "KEVIN CLARK maverick.uk@...
[TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...> wrote:


Hi Tom :-)

As Tom indicates I am in the UK. Thank you for the eBay links. How does
one tell
if they are fake?

Cheers

Kevin

>
> On 16 May 2017 at 21:06 "Tom Jobe tomjobe@... [TekScopes]"
> <TekScopes@...> wrote:
>
>
> There are some new CA3102E arrays on eBay.
> I believe Kevin is in the UK.
> Here's one from Switzerland:
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CA3102E-IC-RCA-2x-5962-01-093-4610-/302278280934?hash=item46613086e6:g:yi0AAOSwnF9Y6mS7
> Two of several from the US:
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERSIL-HARRIS-CA3102E-DIP-14-Dual-High-Frequency-/361788292835?hash=item543c433ee3:g:lXEAAOSwcLxYDh5H
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CA3102E-Original-New-Harris-Integrated-Circuit-/121052570211?hash=item1c2f4ba263:m:m-2FOnEaLRPmCo6nwF1MBzg
> There are many available from China, some of which look like they might
> not be fake.
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-CA3102E-Dual-High-Frequency-Differential-Amplifier-/221115321652?hash=item337b800d34:m:mdO4W1kfigq6oNKBsBWxfMw
>
>
>
>
>
> On 5/16/2017 9:02 AM, David @DWH [TekScopes] wrote:
> >
> > On 16 May 2017 14:03:52 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> > >Hi David
> > >
> > > Been a little busy so took a while to get back to this. So today
> > lunch time I started to measure some voltages with my DMM as
> > suggested, results as follows, something a little amiss (I think?)
> > >
> > > U555B Output pin 6 ch1 = 0.139V (0.2V) (0.06V error)
> > > U555B Output pin 6 ch2 = 1.476V (2.5V) (1.02V error)
> > >
> > > U310 Output pin 1 ch1 = -3.26V (-3.4V) (0.14V error)
> > > U310 Output pin 1 ch2 = -2.443V (-2.1V) (0.34V error)
> >
> > You can check the values of R314, R315, R317, R318, and R319 around
> > U310 but I think the answer is going to be that U310 is bad.
> >
> > The signal into pin 1/11 is suppose to be low when channel 1 is
> > selected. When that happens, the output of U555B is disconnected
> > (pins 1/11 of U310 should not draw any current) and should reach all
> > the way to ground which is what we are seeing and U310 should be
> > working but it is not.
> >
> > When the signal into pin 1/11 is high, channel 2 is selected but pin
> > 1/11 draws more current from U555B. In this case, it is drawing too
> > much current indicating that either U310 is damaged or R314 and/or
> > R315 are open.
> >
> > The fact that U555B is not reaching its full output is irrelevant
> > because under that condition, U310 should not be forwarding the
> > trigger signal anyway.
> >
> > > I also looked at the feed from the A3 Board Connection as follows:-
> > >
> > > Pin 18 (6.2V) = 6.5V (0.3V error), this also shows (0V) for XY but
> > can't see how to check this on front panel.
> > > Pin 32 (0.0V) = 0V
> > > Pin 33 (5.0V) = 4.996V
> > > Pin 34 (5.0V) = 4.996V
> > >
> > > Some of the values are slightly higher / lower than they should be,
> > is this the issue?
> >
> > No, nothing is wrong there.
> >
> > I wonder if there are any good sources for CA3102 transistor arrays. I
> > do not see any so if you cannot find one, blast me an email with your
> > mailing address and I should be able to mail one to you. I will have
> > to pull it from a junked board but will test it somewhat.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

>



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Re: Chance to win a Rohde 3Ghz DSA

Ken Winterling
 

Magnus,

I find the following extract from the "fine print" to be interesting. Note
it states that "On or about *August 30th, 2017*, the Sponsor will select
potential winners..." In the next sentence it states "The Sponsor will
attempt to notify the potential winner via telephone or email on or
about *August
1st 2016*." So, it seems, the winners will be selected at the end of
August *this year* but the winner will be notified *LAST* year! Well, if
that is true, I was not the winner!

*6. Prize Drawing. *On or about *August 30th, 2017*, the Sponsor will
select potential winners in a random drawing from among all eligible
entries received. The odds of being selected depend on the number of
entries received. The Sponsor will attempt to notify the potential winner
via telephone or email on or about *August 1st 2016*. If the potential
winner cannot be contacted within five (5) days after the date of the first
attempt to contact him/her, the Sponsor may select an alternate potential
winner in his/her place at random from the remaining non-winning, eligible
entries.

73,

Ken
WA2LBI


On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 4:43 PM, 'Toelle, Magnus' magnustoelle@...
[TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> wrote:

Thanks - but allow me to add that this is for US and Canadian residents
only. To my regrets...

Cheers,

Magnus


On 18/05/2017 22:02, mosaicmerc@... [TekScopes] wrote:

FYI:
http://goemail.microlease.com/ML_RS_FSC3_Spec_An_Raffle
http://goemail.microlease.com/ML_RS_FSC3_Spec_An_Raffle

no affiliation. No cost either.

Re: Hints/cautions on replacing caps on 475?

Craig Sawyers <c.sawyers@...>
 

I have removed several caps from a 475 without removing the PCB from the chassis. Naturally the
one
I needed to replace was in the most inconvenient location, so I had to remove others to get to it.
Yes, I
did lift some of the tracks, so I wouldn't recommend the technique. Since the through plating was
then destroyed, I couldn't solder to the top side tracks, so traced the tracks, and ensured I
added
bridge wires on the accessible side of the PCB. Success.
Been there. Even if the top trace does not lift, the through hole plating pulls out. Haven't yet
found a way to do this without risk.

Craig

Re: Hints/cautions on replacing caps on 475?

Tom Gardner
 

On 19/05/17 06:04, mark2382@... [TekScopes] wrote:

Are those solder points on the can side of the board or are they visble underneath. Those caps are pretty well packed in and will be a little difficult to reach if they are soldered in on the top!
They are double-sided boards, and the "hidden top" trace can lift :(

The basic issue is how to get enough heat into the tags (and hence can) to raise the temperature enough to melt the solder, without it being too much to melt the glue holding the tracks to the PCB.

Given that the caps are a moderately tight fit and that it is difficult to remove all the solder, the caps might need to be "rocked" to get the pins out. But how much force should you use? Too much too early and the can will still be attached by a solder bridge to the hidden top track, and it will lift the track.

One possible technique would be to add some of that very low temperature (85C) "removal solder alloy"
http://www.chipquik.com/datasheets/SMD1NL.pdf

I have removed several caps from a 475 without removing the PCB from the chassis. Naturally the one I needed to replace was in the most inconvenient location, so I had to remove others to get to it. Yes, I did lift some of the tracks, so I wouldn't recommend the technique. Since the through plating was then destroyed, I couldn't solder to the top side tracks, so traced the tracks, and ensured I added bridge wires on the accessible side of the PCB. Success.

Re: Hints/cautions on replacing caps on 475?

Mark Hatch
 

Thanks Tom!

Are those solder points on the can side of the board or are they visble underneath. Those caps are pretty well packed in and will be a little difficult to reach if they are soldered in on the top!


Mark

TM504/TM515 tilt bails

EJP
 

Does anybody have a source of these? Alternatively, has anybody made one and can share experiences? I am contemplating getting a few made if all else fails as I need 2 x TM504 and 2 x TM515 tilt bails. Seems to be just 1/4" rod bent this way and that somehow.

EJP

Re: Hints/cautions on replacing caps on 475?

Tom Jobe <tomjobe@...>
 

The outer 'can' of those larger capacitors on your 475 have two or three
places where they solder into the circuit board.
In some cases the capacitor's outer 'can' becomes part of the circuit,
so you connect the outer can's solder points with a wire on the circuit
board to complete the circuit, and then you connect a normal two wire
capacitor as a replacement.
Pay attention to the polaritys of the old and new capacitors to make
sure you get it right.
tom jobe...

On 5/18/2017 5:23 PM, mark2382@... [TekScopes] wrote:

I have one bad cap on my 475, and while I gain access, I would like to
replace all of them. I did some searching on past conversations, and
walked away with the following questions:
1) I came across a caution that (paraphrase) "some caps were designed
by Tek to connect separated "ground" traces on the board."


There are two ways to interpret this caution:
- The "body" of the cap is used to bridge these traces (!)
- The two of the three leads bridge the traces.


I am 90% sure that second interpretation (the leads form the bridge)
is the right interpretation and that the body itself is not providing
that bridge. But can someone confirm this?


2) Assuming my interpretation on #1 is correct, then are the two
duplicate leads always Negative, Positive, or sometimes one or the
other? I know that the duplicate leads are not always negative as
C1412 (for example), has the two positive leads attached to the +50
voltage. So the duplicate lead must either be all positive or a
mixture...


3) (Finally), has anybody tried re-stuffing the can's? I have done
this before on another piece of lab equipment. Just don't know how
tightly Tek sealed their caps.


Thanks!


Mark







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hints/cautions on replacing caps on 475?

Mark Hatch
 

I have one bad cap on my 475, and while I gain access, I would like to replace all of them. I did some searching on past conversations, and walked away with the following questions:
1) I came across a caution that (paraphrase) "some caps were designed by Tek to connect separated "ground" traces on the board."


There are two ways to interpret this caution:
- The "body" of the cap is used to bridge these traces (!)
- The two of the three leads bridge the traces.


I am 90% sure that second interpretation (the leads form the bridge) is the right interpretation and that the body itself is not providing that bridge. But can someone confirm this?


2) Assuming my interpretation on #1 is correct, then are the two duplicate leads always Negative, Positive, or sometimes one or the other? I know that the duplicate leads are not always negative as C1412 (for example), has the two positive leads attached to the +50 voltage. So the duplicate lead must either be all positive or a mixture...


3) (Finally), has anybody tried re-stuffing the can's? I have done this before on another piece of lab equipment. Just don't know how tightly Tek sealed their caps.


Thanks!


Mark

Re: 468 with no -2450

Samuel Rocha <py1dkw@...>
 

Dear Group,
I had changed the MC1458 and both supplies are now good.
But still no -2450 v!
Regards to ALL,
Sam Rocha






Enviado do Yahoo Mail. Baixe o aplicativo

--------------------------------------------
Em qui, 18/5/17, Samuel Rocha py1dkw@... [TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> escreveu:

Assunto: Re: [TekScopes] 468 with no -2459 v
Para: "David" <@DWH>, "TekScopes@..." <TekScopes@...>
Data: Quinta-feira, 18 de Maio de 2017, 11:50


 









Dear Group,

Sorry, completing the message:



Well, meanwhile I could repair the 55V supply. The VR725
diode, 9,1 v was open, replaced by a 9.1v/1W. This repaired
the +55v, the +15v is ok.Now, the  +5 v  supply is +7.0v
and the -8 v supply is -12v.

I checked the Q401,Q402,Q402, Q617 onboard and Q718 out of
board, they seems to be good with an analog Simpson7
multimeter,

Just for checking the influence of one suplly in tho the
other, I disconnected CR304 in collector of Q402 and
connected it to a +5v supply, still the -8v gives -12v.

I suspect the U506 is faulty. The measures in U506 are:Pin
1= +9,7Pin 2=+17

Pin 3=+5

Pin 4= -12,4Pin 5 =-3,8Pin 6 =0Pin 7 =+2,3Pin8 =+15Is it
possible to remove the  U506 without taking the interface
board out? I think I will have to destroy it cutting all ic
legs and soldering a 8 pin socket.Any ideas about these two
power supplies repair?

many thanks, nice weekend for all And Keep your world blue
as TEKTRONIX !!Sam Rocha 



Enviado do Yahoo Mail. Baixe o aplicativo



Em Quinta-feira, 18 de Maio de 2017 11:40, Samuel Rocha
<py1dkw@...> escreveu:





Dear Group

Well, meanwhile I could repair the 55V supply. The VR725
diode, 9,1 v was open, replaced by a 9.1v/1W. This repaired
the +55v, the +15v is ok.Now, the  +5 v  supply is +7.0v
and the -8 v supply is -12v.

I checked the Q401,Q402,Q402, Q617 onboard and Q718 out of
board, they seems to be good with an analog Simpson7
multimeter,

Just for checking the influence of one suplly in tho the
other, I disconnected CR304 in collector of Q402 and
connected it to a +5v supply, still the -8v gives -12v.

I suspect the U506 is faulty. The measures in U506
are:Pin Pin 

Pin 

 



Enviado do Yahoo Mail. Baixe o aplicativo



Em Terça-feira, 16 de Maio de 2017 3:42, David
<@DWH> escreveu:





On Fri, 12 May 2017 01:30:57 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:





>Dear David ,

>Thank you very much for your attention and answer.

>Confirming the tested voltages:-2450 => zero Volts

>+110 => +110,8 Volts

>-8 did not test

>

>+15v= +15v5v gives 6.75 Volts (higher voltage)



What?  So the +5 volt supply is actually +6.75 volts?  If
so that

needs to be fixed before all else.  A high voltage could
damage the

logic circuits.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]













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Re: 2235 Trigger on one channel

Vince Vielhaber
 

I second dealing with LittleDiode. I bought an obscure Motorola IC from him last year. There were only two sellers left worldwide with any! He shipped fast, and I'm in the US.

Vince.

On 05/18/2017 03:20 PM, Adrian Nicol fenland787a@... [TekScopes] wrote:


Hi Kevin,I've used an ebay seller here in the UK called 'LittleDiode'
for older standard parts and had good service and no problems. They have
some CA3102E's listed at the moment.As to telling fakes - 1960's chips
with nice crisp laser markings ring alarm bells for me!

Regards,Adrian

On Thursday, May 18, 2017 1:46 PM, "KEVIN CLARK maverick.uk@...
[TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...> wrote:


Hi Tom :-)

As Tom indicates I am in the UK. Thank you for the eBay links. How does
one tell
if they are fake?

Cheers

Kevin

Re: Chance to win a Rohde 3Ghz DSA

magnustoelle
 

Thanks - but allow me to add that this is for US and Canadian residents only. To my regrets...

Cheers,

Magnus

On 18/05/2017 22:02, mosaicmerc@... [TekScopes] wrote:

FYI:
http://goemail.microlease.com/ML_RS_FSC3_Spec_An_Raffle http://goemail.microlease.com/ML_RS_FSC3_Spec_An_Raffle

no affiliation. No cost either.

Chance to win a Rohde 3Ghz DSA

mosaicmerc
 

Re: 2235 Trigger on one channel

Adrian Nicol
 

Hi Kevin,I've used an ebay seller here in the UK called 'LittleDiode' for older standard parts and had good service and no problems. They have some CA3102E's listed at the moment.As to telling fakes - 1960's chips with nice crisp laser markings ring alarm bells for me!

Regards,Adrian

On Thursday, May 18, 2017 1:46 PM, "KEVIN CLARK maverick.uk@... [TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...> wrote:


  Hi Tom :-)

As Tom indicates I am in the UK. Thank you for the eBay links. How does one tell
if they are fake?

Cheers

Kevin


On 16 May 2017 at 21:06 "Tom Jobe tomjobe@... [TekScopes]"
<TekScopes@...> wrote:


There are some new CA3102E arrays on eBay.
I believe Kevin is in the UK.
Here's one from Switzerland:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CA3102E-IC-RCA-2x-5962-01-093-4610-/302278280934?hash=item46613086e6:g:yi0AAOSwnF9Y6mS7
Two of several from the US:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERSIL-HARRIS-CA3102E-DIP-14-Dual-High-Frequency-/361788292835?hash=item543c433ee3:g:lXEAAOSwcLxYDh5H

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CA3102E-Original-New-Harris-Integrated-Circuit-/121052570211?hash=item1c2f4ba263:m:m-2FOnEaLRPmCo6nwF1MBzg
There are many available from China, some of which look like they might
not be fake.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-CA3102E-Dual-High-Frequency-Differential-Amplifier-/221115321652?hash=item337b800d34:m:mdO4W1kfigq6oNKBsBWxfMw





On 5/16/2017 9:02 AM, David @DWH [TekScopes] wrote:

On 16 May 2017 14:03:52 +0000, you wrote:

Hi David

Been a little busy so took a while to get back to this. So today
lunch time I started to measure some voltages with my DMM as
suggested, results as follows, something a little amiss (I think?)

U555B Output pin 6 ch1 = 0.139V (0.2V) (0.06V error)
U555B Output pin 6 ch2 = 1.476V (2.5V) (1.02V error)

U310 Output pin 1 ch1 = -3.26V (-3.4V) (0.14V error)
U310 Output pin 1 ch2 = -2.443V (-2.1V) (0.34V error)
You can check the values of R314, R315, R317, R318, and R319 around
U310 but I think the answer is going to be that U310 is bad.

The signal into pin 1/11 is suppose to be low when channel 1 is
selected. When that happens, the output of U555B is disconnected
(pins 1/11 of U310 should not draw any current) and should reach all
the way to ground which is what we are seeing and U310 should be
working but it is not.

When the signal into pin 1/11 is high, channel 2 is selected but pin
1/11 draws more current from U555B. In this case, it is drawing too
much current indicating that either U310 is damaged or R314 and/or
R315 are open.

The fact that U555B is not reaching its full output is irrelevant
because under that condition, U310 should not be forwarding the
trigger signal anyway.

I also looked at the feed from the A3 Board Connection as follows:-

Pin 18 (6.2V) = 6.5V (0.3V error), this also shows (0V) for XY but
can't see how to check this on front panel.
Pin 32 (0.0V) = 0V
Pin 33 (5.0V) = 4.996V
Pin 34 (5.0V) = 4.996V

Some of the values are slightly higher / lower than they should be,
is this the issue?

No, nothing is wrong there.

I wonder if there are any good sources for CA3102 transistor arrays. I
do not see any so if you cannot find one, blast me an email with your
mailing address and I should be able to mail one to you. I will have
to pull it from a junked board but will test it somewhat.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: 43 year old 7S14 Dual Trace Dual Timebase Sampling Plugin still works

Ed Breya
 

Yes, I remember the cells I deleted from my first 7S14 were the bigger ones, and smushed in there, with TO-220-sized silastic insulators between and around them. I assume that was the standard factory or field service installation method.

Ed

Re: 43 year old 7S14 Dual Trace Dual Timebase Sampling Plugin still works

 

Hi Ed,
I have no way to know if the cells were original or not in either of my
7S14s. But I did realize that at some point Tek engineers must have decided
the original cells they designed it for were too small. The hole in the PC
board was made for the smaller cells. The larger replacement cells are too
big for the old spaces and require all sorts of "shoe horning" to fit in
their place.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2017 7:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: 43 year old 7S14 Dual Trace Dual Timebase Sampling
Plugin still works

<snip>
I'd guess that the lifetime of the Hg cells depended mostly on the leakage
of the particular sampler diodes installed, and on storage conditions.
Clean, cool, and dry is good. BTW I noticed back when I studied the 7S14
extensively, that somewhere along the line the Hg cell size was changed from
something smaller to something around 225 mAh, as I recall. It could have
been due to part availability issues, but I'm guessing the small ones didn't
last long enough, so were upped significantly in size to cover the diode
leakage and environment conditions. I once did a rough estimate of how long
a 225 mAh cell should last, based on a SWAG of what the diode leakage was at
normal storage temperatures, and came up with about thirty years, as I
recall, so I could picture your numbers being real.

<snip>
Also, do you know for sure that the cells are the original ones?

Ed
------------------------------------
Posted by: edbreya@...
------------------------------------

Re: 2235 Trigger on one channel

Adrian Nicol
 

I'm not sure how you can tell fakes (although laser marked 1960s chips were rare!) but have bought a range of older devices to keep my menagerie of HP & Tek stuff fed and watered from an ebay seller in the UK called 'LittleDiode' with no problems so far. I see they have some CA3102E listed. No affiliation etc.....

Re: Type 503 Oscilloscope Issues

ykochcal
 

"If I have time tomorrow, I'll just temporarily connect the new caps in
place and see what effect that has on the scope's performance and the -100V
bus reading."

That would be a good plan.

The caps of this kind can be shorted, but the tests and the fact that you
get -80V would indicate that they are not shorted or low resistance.

The capacitors can have low uF and/or high ESR, Placing a new caps in
parallel will solve both those problems.

As mentioned if the old caps have high leakage, the connecting just the new
cap will eliminate that issue.

At that point you can determine if the that fixes all the issues.

If there is still other issues I would locate those issues, and then make a
plan to fix all the issues, before "restoring" the caps to reduce the risk
of collateral damage or redoing work to get to other parts.

(I actually, in most cases on a cap like this I just solder the new cap to
the terminals on the bottom of old one and leave the old one in. But that is
just my personal choice)

Thanks for the update

John

Saw this and thought of you!

Dennis McCreery