Re: Replacing cable on P6075A probe


n4buq
 

I don't hammer them anymore and find that merely pressing the lid with my hands or thumbs seats the lid well enough. Besides, a lot of the modern paint "cans" are plastic with a metal rim and lid. They hammer them at the big box stores but I still shy away from that.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Colin Herbert via groups.io" <colingherbert=blueyonder.co.uk@groups.io>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2020 11:31:37 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing cable on P6075A probe

Try just putting the can with the lid in the right place on a solid flor and
stand on it. If it goes right the lid is on securely, if not you have some
nice new different-coloured shoes.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Daveolla
Sent: 17 November 2020 18:14
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing cable on P6075A probe

Ya, I have a handy jar with about 5 or 6 of those paint openers, 2
styles. They work real good. They could make screwdrivers obsolete!
Now if they had a gizmo to put the lid back on the paint can it might
obsolete hammers.. Once the lid pounding dents the side of the can,
the lid never goes back on well, too much springiness or bounce in the lid
rim.

Dave


At 10:53 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote:
Or use one of those handy metal thingies from Home Depot to open
paint cans if you're here in the States. Doubles as a bottle opener
so you can have a cold one while you paint! Don't blame me if your
paint job doesn't come out so great, though. ;)

Jim Ford

------ Original Message ------
From: "Daveolla" <grobbins@netflash.net>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: 11/17/2020 9:44:13 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing cable on P6075A probe

Greeting, Also, take note of what the manual says about shortening
the cable and Connector Replacement" page 2 ( 6 of 11) of the
P6075A version from the links given earlier in this thread;

http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/P6075

It is also repeated (or vise versa) in the plain P6075 manual on
page 5 at the same link.
It states;

"Substitution of non-standard parts is not advisable if the
original performance is to be restored. Even shortening the cable
by more than a few percent will have a noticeable effect on the
transient response of the probe. The resistive center conductor has
been specifically selected for critical dampening of reflections
that would otherwise exist."

And then is the "Conector Replacement" next with step 1 as "Remove
the snap- fit cover on the compensation box." They dont tell you
how to do that though. Perhaps the plastic has stiffened
somewhat suggesting you need a good pry from a screwdriver.
Perhaps a blade edge of knife gently if a finger nail wont budge
it. It can also be stuck and needs to be cracked loose. If you nick
or dint then you gotta fix that somehow........or I do. Leave
no marks is the goal.

Im sure we have all seen somones attempt at opening stuff up, TVs,
phones, etc that looked like a jackhammer attacked it everywhere.
Use a screwdriver for what it was intended, prying open paint cans!!!

On a side note, what is the difference in the plain P6075 and the
A version? I see the specs for the plain versions input impedance
is 10meg within 0.4% and 0.5% for the A.

Dave












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