Or use one of those handy metal thingies from Home Depot to open paint cans if you're here in the States. Doubles as a bottle opener so you can have a cold one while you paint! Don't blame me if your paint job doesn't come out so great, though. ;)
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------ Original Message ------
From: "Daveolla" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: 11/17/2020 9:44:13 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing cable on P6075A probe
Greeting, Also, take note of what the manual says about shortening the cable and Connector Replacement" page 2 ( 6 of 11) of the P6075A version from the links given earlier in this thread;
It is also repeated (or vise versa) in the plain P6075 manual on page 5 at the same link.
"Substitution of non-standard parts is not advisable if the original performance is to be restored. Even shortening the cable by more than a few percent will have a noticeable effect on the transient response of the probe. The resistive center conductor has been specifically selected for critical dampening of reflections that would otherwise exist."
And then is the "Conector Replacement" next with step 1 as "Remove the snap- fit cover on the compensation box." They dont tell you how to do that though. Perhaps the plastic has stiffened somewhat suggesting you need a good pry from a screwdriver. Perhaps a blade edge of knife gently if a finger nail wont budge it. It can also be stuck and needs to be cracked loose. If you nick or dint then you gotta fix that somehow........or I do. Leave no marks is the goal.
Im sure we have all seen somones attempt at opening stuff up, TVs, phones, etc that looked like a jackhammer attacked it everywhere. Use a screwdriver for what it was intended, prying open paint cans!!!
On a side note, what is the difference in the plain P6075 and the A version? I see the specs for the plain versions input impedance is 10meg within 0.4% and 0.5% for the A.
At 07:51 AM 11/17/2020, you wrote:
Not quite right to compare 250 to 10Meg and declare 200 to be therefore ok. By that logic, zero ohms should be just fine, too. Yet, Tek went to the trouble to use resistance wire. Clearly there's a reason!
The purpose of the resistance wire is to damp out reflections due to mismatch. There's a Goldilocks optimum for each length that balances bandwidth against aberrations. If you deviate from that balance, either parameter degrades.
That said, you're probably not going to notice any dramatic change. But if you had before and after measurements, you'd see a difference.
Sent from my iThing, so please excuse the terseness and typos
On Nov 17, 2020, at 5:24, "Brent W8XG" <email@example.com> wrote:
No, I did not do a YouTube video. But I've seen one out there. I didn't have a replacement cable or other parts. I cut my cable off at both ends as close as I could to the strain-relief parts, then tested the cable. It tested good, so I knew I'd cut out somewhere the break. I used the typical wire strippers to remove the insulation. I was very slow and methodical. But I was surprised at how fine that wire was. Then I had to clean out both strain relief's, with a Dremel. Once cleaned out, I pried them open just a little, to be able to slip the cable in and then crimp.
So my cable is now a little shorter. The 250 ohm's is likely about right given the size of the wire, but I didn't measure it. So my cable might be 200 ohm's now. But with the 9k resistor in there to make it a 10x probe, I doubt it matters much.
I don't know what the grommet is for. Maybe it's to slip over the cable and then crimp to become strain relief??