Re: Yet another attempt to fix a 2465B

Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>


To some people, a capacitor is a capacitor is a capacitor....

Not all electrolytic capacitors work well in switching power
supplies. To get the best life out of your power supply
capacitors You have to use the best long life (5K hours+),
low ESR, low impedance, high ripple current capacitor you can
afford. Further it has to be 105C rated or better.

I recommend looking for capacitors that are similarly sized
to the originals. To get that size, go to higher value and
higher voltage in your replacements. Higher voltage capacitors
generally have lower ESR and higher ripple current ratings,
rated for switching power supply use.

The guy that did the recap botched it, you should replace
them again, only this time with properly selected capacitors.

I replace all of the 180uf40V and 250uf20V caps with a single
type, 330uf 50V from United Chemicon. Panasonic also makes
a suitable capacitor in that value. Nichicon doesn't (didn't?).

These capacitors are the most critical in the scope. I always
find one or two of the original caps in these 6 positions that
is bad. They handle +/-5V, +/- 15V, and the 5V digital.

The 5V digital pair are C1110 and C1111.

What I generally find with bad recap jobs is the capacitor's
values are slavishly matched, with a capacitor that is about
1/4 the size of the original. Usually something that is a
general purpose capacitor, not a switching rated capacitor.

-Chuck Harris

Grayson Evans wrote:

I have had a nice 2465B for about 6 years that I bought at Dayton (hamvention). It worked. About a year ago it quit when I turned it on one morning. It has the same symptoms as Dave's in his EEvlog #1203 on youtube. All the front panel LEDs light up but that's it.
Voltages are all in spec except the +5V, it is 4.5V with 400 mVpp ripple. The +15 volt supply also has the same 400 mVpp ripple, but voltage is good.
Whoever had it before me did a very nice recap of the power supply, very nice resoldering work. Looks like a factory job. Replaced the SMDs on the logic board with regular electrolytic.
THe only thing I can figure out is that at least some caps around the +5 and +15 supply need replacing again.
Looks like Tek assumed the power supply would not need servicing. Hard to get in and out and impossible to work on while it's installed. If it breaks, board level replacement. I can't see anyway to troubleshoot the board set.
Has anyone ever hooked up 120V to the boards out of the scope to try to troubleshoot it? Doesn't seem practical or safe.
BTW, I am plowing through the giant eevblog thread, but only up to page 11 (of 68!). Don't know if I can make it.

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