Re: DC503 Not Working

Richard R. Pope

Hello all,
I had someone do this with a Mazda RX-2. The Mazdas of that day and age had an amp meter in the dash. There was a 50 amp main fuse under the hood. The wiring for the amp meter ran through the main harness under the hood and through the main harness under the dash. These fuses were $5 each and that was expensive in the early 1970s.
Well this car started blowing the main fuse so the owner replaced the fuse with a piece of coat hanger instead of finding the short. Well the results were predictable. He heavily damaged both the harness' under the hood and under the dash. The alternator had some shorted diodes and that is what was blowing the fuse. It wasn't pretty but the car didn't catch fire. Fortunately!
GOD Bless and Thanks,

On 7/31/2020 6:55 PM, Harvey White wrote:
It tells me that something is drawing too much current.

Generally, it's a tantalum capacitor. The tantalum may NOT read a dead short, only some do. It could read low, draw an amp on a circuit where the circuit was supposed to draw 100 ma. I'd want to remove the fuse, check the power current vs. the fuse rating. Use the 20 amp range on a meter.

If it's not a tantalum, then something ought to be getting rather hot in operation.

The previous owner "fixed" the problem the same way that an "expert" electrician fixes a power problem by putting a penny behind the fuse.


Join to automatically receive all group messages.