Re: Electrolytic Capacitor Removal NO Desoldering Required

Glenn Little

We got some hand me down Hitachi analog cameras for the NEWS department of the TV station that I was CE for.
NEWS just had to have the working cameras in the field NOW.
About 50% of the bad cameras had leaking electrolytic caps on the image blocks.
The electrolyte had leaked into in multilayer board and these cameras were scrapped.
It was not long before the working cameras became unrepairable due to electrolyte leaking into the multilayer boards.

Between these cameras and the DVC Pro decks, I replaced over two quarts of bad surface mounted electrolytics.

I got rather proficient at removing the capacitors with desoldering tweezers.
I do not know what they did after I left as I took my desoldering station with me.

I guess they farmed the board recapping out to contract repair.


On 4/21/2020 10:01 PM, greenboxmaven via wrote:
Grabbing and twisting the entire condenser off the board seems very risly. Crushing and removing the can then going after the base seems to be a more reasonable idea. I have a few Sony Betacam portable VCRs that are loaded with bad and leaked condensers. The boards were drenched in electrolyte. I unsoldered them all, scraped the pads, then washed the boards in soapy hot water  before rinsing them and drying them in the hot box. Afterward, I tinned each pad and soldered the new condensers in place.  The recorder works perfectly.  I have done a couple IMAC G5s as well, they are still working fine.  Those bad condensers cause a lot of repairable gear to be trashed. I can understand commercial repair shops declining to repair them, but if you have time and patience, there is a lot of good stuff that can be restored.

      Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY

On 4/21/20 7:24 PM, victor.silva via wrote:
I saw this last year and didn't like when compared to my method that I have been using since 2005.
  First of all how can he say no soldering required when the old terminals are still there.
Obviously soldering is required to remove the terminals and clean up the pads.

I use a similar method but it puts absolutely no force on the pads.

I use angled cutters and cut the capacitor off at the bottom, around the collar, leaving the rubber seal, a tiny piece of aluminum and the plastic base.
The remaining rubber seal and plastic base comes off very easily now, by grabbing a corner with the cutters.


Glenn Little ARRL Technical Specialist QCWA LM 28417
Amateur Callsign: WB4UIV AMSAT LM 2178
"It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class
of the Amateur that holds the license"

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