I have had luck then the mallory¹s I have done this with had black tar in
the bottom, with the aluminum foil tape probably point welded to it, then
the solid wet cap above, once all cleaned out I had the pins that were in
tar to protect them able to be soldered to.
It all cleaned out easily. But make sure you leave a lip at the bottom of
the case when you cut so you got a upper and lower area for the final
sealing tape to stick to to reassemble. Cut too close to the bottom and no
place for that end to stick, so I usually stay about 1/2 inch up.
If there is not a term, punching a hole thru for a wire for the new cap is
sure the way to go.
I think you can get longer rated hours in the snap in variety vs a redial,
if I can actually believe the specs as published. Far as I know there are
none made anywhere but Asia now, no matter the name brand of manufacturer.
I try to find the ones with the longest listed expected lifetime hours on
Mouser. And a name that I have at least heard of, Panasonic, Sprague,
Loved the explanation from the guy that uses a lathe, and 3d printing and
literally makes a new sealed can, that dude, is dedication in restoration.
Beyond what I could do but - respect your way sir.
73 - Dave N8ZFM
On 1/27/20, 10:04 PM, "TekScopes@groups.io on behalf of Chuck Harris"
<TekScopes@groups.io on behalf of cfharris@...> wrote:
I do it much the same way. Copper, or steel wouldn't last