Hot / neutral swapped does not matter unless it has a fault in the first place.
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Certainly for equipment designed for the international market there
can't be excessive earth leakage from either line.
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 11:10 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
" but I'm cheap too..... "
LOL, same here. I should take it apart an make sure they don't have the
hot and neutral swapped when they wired it for US use. I would really
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 2:02 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
It could be that the heater wire is deforming as it heats up and
touching the metal housing somewhere, that could trip the GFI and
might not even show up on an insulation test.
We don't have GFI outlets here, just central GFIs in the distribution
panels. Used to be just a single three phase one for the whole house
(30mA) but now several are required.
They rarely fail but last year I had a bad one right out of the box.
It was only tripping intermittently (most dangerous), but luckily the
work experience lad who was wiring the distribution panel caught it.
Probably a mechanical issue since I could hear something rattling
around inside, and after some shaking it did not exhibit the fault any
more, but of course I changed it anyway.
I guess I should buy a different brand where I was shown on a factory
tour that they assemble the core mechanism in a cleanroom, but I'm
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 7:20 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "
Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.
The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outletThe
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.
I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick.
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I
I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like
uses the same tips.setup
I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.
For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.
Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.
On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot
your palm which seems odd too.
Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...