Date
1 - 20 of 28
TeenAstro 2.5.1
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LaurentS
Hi everybody,
really happy with my TeenAstro 2.4.1, I thought about updating it with the new software, but before this, and because I don't really need for now the third motor, I decided to build a new TeenAstro 2.5.1. Super excited about this new projekt; I had a look on the parts list and saw that there's no connector for the handcontroller in this Reichelt list. I think it's thisone, isn't it ? |
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Hi Laurent,
Yes this the right one. I ordered today 4 TeenAstro mini kit with 4 SHC please let me know if you know people of would like a TeenAstro build or as a kit Charles |
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Hi Laurent, Good job but the LED is really important to se if the upload works correctly. Charles Work on progress; I ordered the front and back plates designed with Schaeffer software.. well not really cheap... but quality has a price. |
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Thanks Charles, you're right, that's why I added it after ... forgotten... . :)
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LaurentS
Just changed the hole for the HC at the front plate.
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LaurentS
Work on progress... .
Front and back plates are ordered; time to finish those connexions.    |
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mmessschuh@...
nice work.
i go a slightly other way. my GNSS receiver will be completly external and i add an internal dc/dc booster for Vmot (Vin 10-32 and Vout 32V at moment). for the booster i cut the Vmot line near the fuse and for the new Vmot power-IN, i use the pin header beside the stepper driver. maybe for on of the next pcb version we add a 2 pin header (with jumper option) to have an additional way to power Vmot. its usefull for outside obervation with common 12V power source. for the booster addon i use the bigger case (FR80 42 120) maybe the 100mm case is big enough but i do not tested at moment. also, as u can see i use some other connectors for power-in, shc, motors and usb, it works for the moment but in future this connector won´t work because they have max. 5(6 with cabel shield) pins and the max. cable diameter is 4-4.5mm. so there is no place for encoder or other stuff, except for reticule-led at ra-motor. furthermore i add 3 little holes add front for led´s to control µC-power, Vmot-power and the teensy-led. its not finished at all but i´m confident will get it work next days. |
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LaurentS
Charles and François,
I'm lost; what would be the difference in using bob's steppers or smaller ones ? you wrote that it would be better to use the "smalls" ones. I had the idea that who can bring the stronger effort, will be the best with smaller motors too; isn't it the case ? should we switch for "smaller" steppers instead of using Bobs ? Thanks, Laurent. |
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Hi Laurent:
The real difference is between 2130 and 5160 chips. Look at this page. The 2130 allows a max. current of 1.2A, the 5160 goes up to 3.0A therefore it can drive bigger motors with more torque. The max. voltage (up to 35V) is also important, check this when ordering.
You can get the same chip (5160 for example) on different boards:
- SilentStepStick is smaller but has fewer pins and debug capability. It is best for production devices.
- the BOB is more like a prototyping board, with more pins. Until now it was the only solution to test the SPI only mode (no more interrupts), by removing a resistor. Now we can get SilentStepSticks with selectable SPI mode, so there is no real reason to use a BOB.
Charles, please correct me if needed.
I hope this helps,
François
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Thanks François, yes it helps to understand :)
So, the Bobs ones will be as smooth in use as the new ones ? for me, it's important to be on an updated board who will accept your futur softs, and that my new Teen is not outdated. |
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Hi Laurent, I have at home a Teenastro 2.2 that runs very well with the lastest firmware. The change that François are doing are fundamental change. I will continue to support the Bob only in the large TeenAstro, we can organise a recycling action on the Teenastro Group. I collect the old board and perform the updates. The only sold component on the board that is expensive and sold onthe pcb is the trako power. It can be unsold with a heat gun. I will anyway maintain the version with step dir My current target is to reduce the cost of teenastro and make it easier to build. The work of François is aligned with this goal. Because the main large main unit will only require one teensy, an upgrade based on the teensy 3.2 will be also possible. Charles Thanks François, yes it helps to understand :) |
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LaurentS
Thanks for your reply; it will also mean that it's possible to have a smaller PCB with SilentStepStick 5160 equipped, that would bring the possibility to be integrated directly in an eq6 mount... ?
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LaurentS
Nice François ! this my goal for next winter, to integrate a Teen directly in the mount. Maybe with maybe a short sma aerial on the cover if it works, the rpi would stay on the tripod.
Power cable and USB would be the two necessary connexions. The question is also about the integrated wifi connexion... . I like dreaming... . :) |
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LaurentS
OK, for now, I'm ready to connect all those things.
I don't really remember what to do... should I install the programm on the teensy separated from the pcb ? If we do so, in all cases is the D+ D- usb connexion necessary ? What about the bridge on the teensy; should it be cuted before we put the battery on the pcb and to be sure to have the power separated from the usb one ?  |
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Hi Laurent:
With Teensy 3.2 we could solder the D+D- wires from the Teensy pads directly to the B connector on the front plate.
With the Teensy 4.0 you need the micro-USB connector (Model G:male, 8.6mm). You will connect only the D+D- wires from this connector to your B connector on the front plate. No need to cut the bridge on the Teensy.
The explanation is this: it is vital to separate the 5V coming from the PC via USB from the board power. Otherwise your risk burning your PC or your board or both.
Likewise, if you connect the Teensy directly to the PC via micro-USB, it MUST be taken out of the socket.
François
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LaurentS
Hi François,
Ok, I understand now that only the informations exchange pins will be connected to the Teensy on the USB connector from the front. Perfect, I have such a Model G connector and will install it were it should, hoping it will stay on place. Thanks for your explanations! :) |
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LaurentS
It would also be possible to solder direclty on the teensy D+ D- pads, wouldn't it be ?
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No this is a host usb It would also be possible to solder direclty on the teensy D+ D- pads, wouldn't it be ? |
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LaurentS
You're right Charles, thanks.
TeenAstro ready to be connected :)  |
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