Date   

Re: [SPAM] ALTERNATOR WHINE?

w0web <w0web@...>
 

sounds like you have a bad spark plug wire, or bad plug.
I would start at the plugs and change them and make sure to use a Resisted plug ( part number will have an R in it) if no change then look at the spark plug wires and make sure they are flexible and not HARD to bend, also make sure they are seated all the way on the plug & or cap (coil pack)

----- Original Message -----
From: Nigel P. Service,VE1NPS
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 13:21
Subject: [SPAM][TMD700A] ALTERNATOR WHINE?


Ron, just to review my situation and no problem to do it. I have just purchased a 2007 Pontiac Wave aka Chev Aveo (sedan) aka Daiwoo something. I purchase the Kenwood extension kit. The main section of the radio is attached to the underside of the rear parcel shelf. I did not use the extension wire in the kit but used #10 of the same thing instead (red and black are molded together) The power ends are attached directly to the battery terminals (using solder type connectors) and the other ends of the #10 are attached to the factory wires coming off the Kenwood using Anderson connectors.

The whine is generally at the lower rpms and rises and lowers according to engine speed. Maybe because it's a small car and due to road noise, etc. but I don't hear it at highway speed. No one has complained on broadcast but I hear it coming out of my speaker. The main feed does not seemingly go by any noise creating situations. GM is not sympathetic because it is an aftermarket install and not their AM-FM radio. I have had whine problems before and were always traceable to the alternator because they were cars with very high mileage. But this is new car with only 5000 miles. Maybe it's a Korean problem????

73
VE1NPS Nigel

PS......the filters in the extension kit were installed as per Kenwood's instructions.


Re: ALTERNATOR WHINE?

Mister Bad Wrench
 

My interference isn't alternator whine but possibly noise coming off
the car's engine computer or fuel pump. I have been advised that
there is a solution but haven't applied it. So for right now what
local repeaters that require tone i have placed tone squelch instead
of just pl tone. The vehicle is a Kia 2004 Optima V6 LX.


ALTERNATOR WHINE?

Nigel P. Service,VE1NPS <npservice@...>
 

Ron, just to review my situation and no problem to do it. I have just purchased a 2007 Pontiac Wave aka Chev Aveo (sedan) aka Daiwoo something. I purchase the Kenwood extension kit. The main section of the radio is attached to the underside of the rear parcel shelf. I did not use the extension wire in the kit but used #10 of the same thing instead (red and black are molded together) The power ends are attached directly to the battery terminals (using solder type connectors) and the other ends of the #10 are attached to the factory wires coming off the Kenwood using Anderson connectors.

The whine is generally at the lower rpms and rises and lowers according to engine speed. Maybe because it's a small car and due to road noise, etc. but I don't hear it at highway speed. No one has complained on broadcast but I hear it coming out of my speaker. The main feed does not seemingly go by any noise creating situations. GM is not sympathetic because it is an aftermarket install and not their AM-FM radio. I have had whine problems before and were always traceable to the alternator because they were cars with very high mileage. But this is new car with only 5000 miles. Maybe it's a Korean problem????

73
VE1NPS Nigel

PS......the filters in the extension kit were installed as per Kenwood's instructions.


ALTERNATOR WHINE?

 

I have been reading the mail on Alternator Whine. As I have never had
this problem I would like a few questions answered.

What vehicles are having this problem? As I have had my D700A in a
1996
Mercury, a 2003 Chevy S-10, a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport, and now in my
2004 Chevy Tahoe with no issues.

Are you using the cigarete lighter outlet? And why?

Are you running you DC power cables close to the Alternator? And why?

Can we make a list of vehicles to watch so anyone buying that vehicle
should expect and immediately install filtering?

I will say this, that just about every Yaesu radio I have encountered
has this issue of whine, but not any D700A. So what are some of us
doing wrong?

By the way, and I am sure EE's will agree, one of the best and
cheapest
filtering cures is direct off the battery. Finding a way for cables
thru the firewall can be fun (not), but there are already rubber
plugs
in the firewall to use, no drilling required. Check out your Steering
Column Boot, your Brake Cable boot, and the any one of several DC
entry
Boots for easy access.

I hope these suggestions help fix your issues. I for one do not like
adding filters to the Alternator, for if it should short out, you
have
a very expensive item to fix, or maybe even replace a burned out car.

73 de Ron K1VSC

EEBS, 40 years of installing Mobile Radio euipment


Filters

Nigel P. Service,VE1NPS <npservice@...>
 

I am following this email trail very closely. Am going to try and get the capacitor today from what was Radio Shack now called Cicuit City. Unfortunately their stock is not as RS used to sell.

73,
VE1NPS Nigel


Re: Filters...for alternator whine, with Construction Detail

sailingto <sailingto@...>
 

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <noskosteve@...> wrote:
NEWS FLASH RE QST filter:
I pinged the author, Jim, KB1MVX, and he has done the Cap only
test and it did NOT fix his Whine. So it appears that his inductor is
more than I originally thought from looking at it - doubt which was
triggered by the faulty response plot.
Steve, you are one GOOD person - you made an assumption based on good
knowledge, then YOU chased more info, found you "might not" be correct,
and make a post so everyone can see what you found.

Cheers for you - and just wish everyone followed your example.

73 de Ken H>


Re: Filters...for alternator whine, with Construction Detail

noskosteve
 

Interestig suggestion, MC. I'll have to look at mine.

NEWS FLASH RE QST filter:
I pinged the author, Jim, KB1MVX, and he has done the Cap only
test and it did NOT fix his Whine. So it appears that his inductor is
more than I originally thought from looking at it - doubt which was
triggered by the faulty response plot.

Here's the full detail so you don't need to track down that QST:
20 feet of #12 hookup wire (Radio Shack)
(I think this is some small standard roll)
A 1/2 inch Quick Link from Lowes ( hardweare store in the U.S.)
4,700 uF. 35 V electrolytic Cap.
Something to hold it in. 6x3x2 (inch) Radio Shack project box.
I recommend usinga Anderson Power Poles in the common configuration.
If you don't use them and have a few radios and
can afford them, you won't regret using them.

Wind all the wire (leave some for connections) mostly on the "back"
of the QuickLink. Use neat winding with each turn next to rhe
previous and make layers the same way. You can wind it around the
bends at the ends, just allow the closing "nut" to be closed.
Wire it to make an L/C filter with the L on the auto (input) side
and the cap on the radio side. Make sure it is mechanically stable in
whatever you hold it in. Make the Cap to radio distance as short as
possible.

View this in Courier Font.

Inductor
Battery + O----UMUMUMUM---o------------> +
|
_+ Cap Radio
_
|
Battery - ----------------o------------> -

73, Steve, K9DCI

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, Michael Champion <mchampion425@...> wrote:

Speaking of wasting time. Strap that alternator to
ground. Being bolted to
the engine isn't enough. There are plenty of high
current automotive
applications that have enthusiast groups doing a 3
point ground to improve
noise limitation and power generation. No filter
needed.


The battery in the car is a HUGE capacitor and should
be plenty.

-MC

-----Original Message-----
From: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:TMD700A@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Steve
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 9:00 PM
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TMD700A] Re: Filters...for alternator whine,
perhaps not.



Fellas,

Hold on gang. The filter shown by Jim, KB1MVX is
not what it is
presented to be. I corresponded with Jim, but have
not heard if he
did the test I suggested. It *did* cure his problem,
however...

The inductor as described would not contribute any
significant
amount to the effectiveness as an alternator whine
filter. The amount
of inductance (a few micro Henrys) has very little
reactance at audio
frequencies. Most likely, his alternator whine was
fixed by the
capacitor alone. I asked him to do some tests, but he
hasn't responded.
The capacitor he used was 4,700 uF. You could try
just that. Make
sure it is rated for at least 35 volts. Connect it
across the power
lines as close to the radio as possible. This will
allow the
resistance of both wires of the power cabling to be
the impedance the
capacitor is working with to provide attenuation.
IF that doesn't do it, I suggest getting a better
inductor. Radio
Shack or an auto-sound store may have whine filters
already made.

FIY
Because I was suspicious of the amount of
attenuation shown with
that inductor size, I did come calculating. The curve
of attenuation
shown is not that of an L/C filter and not of the
charactistics of
what he thought he built. The curve is that of only
an R/C filter -
The C of that capacitor and the R of the generator
used, which was 50
ohms. The curve shows considerably more attenuation
than was actually
achieved in practice. The measurement method (a 50
ohm o-scope, not
1M) also gave excessive loading, further corrupting
the data so it
showed the curve of a 4,500 uF cap and 42 ohm resistor
- a corner freq
of 0.8 Hz and only 6 dB/octave instead of 12 dB/octave
for an L/C
filter.

The inductor shown should be a waste of time.
IF possible, connect your power cable birectly to
the battery, not
an inside power recepticle or cig. lighter.

73, Steve, K9DCI
P.S. The inductor was 20 feet of 12 gauge hookup wire
wound primarily
on one side of a Quick-Link (looks a little like a
rock climbing
carabiner, but has a captive "nut" which turns to
close the loop)


--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin & Natalia"
<sparcnz@> wrote:

Nigel,

Do you by chance have a copy of that article, I do
not get that
publication down here, and I too have a problem with
alternator whine
which I have not been able to get rid of.
A PDF would be great.

Thanks in advance.
Kevin, ZL1KFM.


----- Original Message -----
From: Nigel P. Service,VE1NPS
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [TMD700A] Re: Filters


Just found from the advice of OZ3AAJ a filter in
the June
2007edition of QST, a very simple "you buid it" filter
system for
alternator whine.


Re: Filters...for alternator whine, perhaps not.

Michael Champion <mchampion425@...>
 

Speaking of wasting time. Strap that alternator to
ground. Being bolted to
the engine isn't enough. There are plenty of high
current automotive
applications that have enthusiast groups doing a 3
point ground to improve
noise limitation and power generation. No filter
needed.


The battery in the car is a HUGE capacitor and should
be plenty.

-MC

-----Original Message-----
From: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:TMD700A@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Steve
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 9:00 PM
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TMD700A] Re: Filters...for alternator whine,
perhaps not.



Fellas,

Hold on gang. The filter shown by Jim, KB1MVX is
not what it is
presented to be. I corresponded with Jim, but have
not heard if he
did the test I suggested. It *did* cure his problem,
however...

The inductor as described would not contribute any
significant
amount to the effectiveness as an alternator whine
filter. The amount
of inductance (a few micro Henrys) has very little
reactance at audio
frequencies. Most likely, his alternator whine was
fixed by the
capacitor alone. I asked him to do some tests, but he
hasn't responded.
The capacitor he used was 4,700 uF. You could try
just that. Make
sure it is rated for at least 35 volts. Connect it
across the power
lines as close to the radio as possible. This will
allow the
resistance of both wires of the power cabling to be
the impedance the
capacitor is working with to provide attenuation.
IF that doesn't do it, I suggest getting a better
inductor. Radio
Shack or an auto-sound store may have whine filters
already made.

FIY
Because I was suspicious of the amount of
attenuation shown with
that inductor size, I did come calculating. The curve
of attenuation
shown is not that of an L/C filter and not of the
charactistics of
what he thought he built. The curve is that of only
an R/C filter -
The C of that capacitor and the R of the generator
used, which was 50
ohms. The curve shows considerably more attenuation
than was actually
achieved in practice. The measurement method (a 50
ohm o-scope, not
1M) also gave excessive loading, further corrupting
the data so it
showed the curve of a 4,500 uF cap and 42 ohm resistor
- a corner freq
of 0.8 Hz and only 6 dB/octave instead of 12 dB/octave
for an L/C
filter.

The inductor shown should be a waste of time.
IF possible, connect your power cable birectly to
the battery, not
an inside power recepticle or cig. lighter.

73, Steve, K9DCI
P.S. The inductor was 20 feet of 12 gauge hookup wire
wound primarily
on one side of a Quick-Link (looks a little like a
rock climbing
carabiner, but has a captive "nut" which turns to
close the loop)


--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin & Natalia"
<sparcnz@...> wrote:

Nigel,

Do you by chance have a copy of that article, I do
not get that
publication down here, and I too have a problem with
alternator whine
which I have not been able to get rid of.
A PDF would be great.

Thanks in advance.
Kevin, ZL1KFM.


----- Original Message -----
From: Nigel P. Service,VE1NPS
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [TMD700A] Re: Filters


Just found from the advice of OZ3AAJ a filter in
the June
2007edition of QST, a very simple "you buid it" filter
system for
alternator whine. Looks like that may just be the
answer. What I am
also going to check on, and I should have done this
first, is to see
if GM has a commercial filter system. They do after
all provide a file
on VHF radio installation.

73
VE1NPS Nigel



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Re: D700A on APRS

noskosteve
 

Aaron,

This is a good point, thought it isn't Ken's problem. He says he
*is* beaconing becaue he does get the "MINE-CooCoos" from some digis,
but that he is not getting through to findu and, therefore, not to an
IGate.

It is, however, good advece to keep in mind:
If you bump your squelsh control by accident, and the display says
BUSY. beaconing stops because it appears the channel is occupied.
Also, be careful to not have it set for S-Meter squelch. That is
less effective since there can be areas with junk coming from local
spurces which can cause S-Meter indication, but not true squelch.

So, if you're NOT beaconing at all, check the display and squelch control.

73, Steve, K9DCI



--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, Aaron Anderson <kc5ygs@...> wrote:

Ken, it sounds like you may simply have a squelch problem. When you
turn on the CTCSS do you turn the squelch all the way down? The
squelch must close, regardless of the tone-squelch state, before the
radio will TX packets.
If this isn't your problem it may help others reading this.

AA, SF, Ca


Re: D700A on APRS

noskosteve
 

Jim,

This is not a flame, just advice based on fact.

First, Ken has been posting on the aprs reflector and getting other
advice. The guys there are looking at where he is in relatioon to the
IGates. It appears that there are digi problems in his area because
his PL is causing problems that it should not.

In many other areas of the country, paths such as you recommend for
your area are a poor choice. They only result is network flooding and
QRM hampering normal use. The new WIDEn-N was developed to remove that
problem which the old RELAY caused, but only if everyone cooperated.
For that reason, some digis will ignore the 3 and higher type WIDEs
and truncate those paths to the effect of WIDE2-1.
I understand that your area needs what you say to get to an Igate,
though that is not the primary purpose of APRS. It may very well be,
in your area, that it is not possible to get enough IGates that the
WIDE digis can reach. From your description, it makes sense, but
then, if so many hams ae putting up WIDE digis, perhaps more should
consider just making more of them iGages. If the area is just limited
in IGates, the system is flooded with packets with such pathes, but
perhaps there are few users as well.
If, without changing to the recommended paths, mobiles in your area
travel to other parts of the country, they'll cause congestion for the
other users. If they stay at home, no problem.

Yes, it is nice to track on findu and I do it, but if the digis in
Ken's area are more dense, the WIDE7-7 will Katrina-ize the area and
I'm sure he doesn't need that given his other symptons.

73, Steve, K9DCI

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, Jim Moody <nl7c@...> wrote:

I have lived on the Gulf Coast in that area and it is flat! I have to
assume that the digi's do not have a lot of height in that area and
hence do not cover very large areas. The Wide2-2 is not sufficient to
carry your packets to an IGATE in those areas.

I live in the Texas Panhandle now and our Digi's are approximately
50-80 miles apart. But that is not the whole story. To get from
Childress, where I live, my packets are digi'd here from CDS to MIA
(Miami, TX) 94 miles north of here, then west 83 miles to DUMAS, and
then south into Amarillo where the IGATE resides (223 miles). Amarillo
is only 105 miles from here, but this the shortest path to it. WIDE3-3
at a minimum when conditions are good, WIDE4-4 is best because the MIA
DUMAS can be a marginal path. WIDE4-4 is also required to get to the
IGATE near Wichita Falls (110 miles direct form here) but the digi
route is 337 miles!

There are some nearer Digi's but cannot always access them due to their
siting! Many of the mobiles here run Wide6-6 and Wide7-7 when away
from the cities so they can be tracked. I watched one yesterday with a
Wide7-1 when it made the IGATE. My mobile is on Wide4-4 except when I
am in Amarillo or Wichita Falls then it is Wide2-2.

Don't blame the equipment yet, put it on wide4-4 and see what happens.
You may still find blind areas, we stilll have lots at Wide7-7.
Depending on where you live you may have to change your UNPROTO as you
move around.

For you that want to flame, FIRE AWAY, I got a BIG BYTE BUCKET. You
check with the APRS ops in this area and they all say the same thing!

73, JIM
NL7C
CDS digi


Re: Filters...for alternator whine, perhaps not.

noskosteve
 

Fellas,

Hold on gang. The filter shown by Jim, KB1MVX is not what it is
presented to be. I corresponded with Jim, but have not heard if he
did the test I suggested. It *did* cure his problem, however...

The inductor as described would not contribute any significant
amount to the effectiveness as an alternator whine filter. The amount
of inductance (a few micro Henrys) has very little reactance at audio
frequencies. Most likely, his alternator whine was fixed by the
capacitor alone. I asked him to do some tests, but he hasn't responded.
The capacitor he used was 4,700 uF. You could try just that. Make
sure it is rated for at least 35 volts. Connect it across the power
lines as close to the radio as possible. This will allow the
resistance of both wires of the power cabling to be the impedance the
capacitor is working with to provide attenuation.
IF that doesn't do it, I suggest getting a better inductor. Radio
Shack or an auto-sound store may have whine filters already made.

FIY
Because I was suspicious of the amount of attenuation shown with
that inductor size, I did come calculating. The curve of attenuation
shown is not that of an L/C filter and not of the charactistics of
what he thought he built. The curve is that of only an R/C filter -
The C of that capacitor and the R of the generator used, which was 50
ohms. The curve shows considerably more attenuation than was actually
achieved in practice. The measurement method (a 50 ohm o-scope, not
1M) also gave excessive loading, further corrupting the data so it
showed the curve of a 4,500 uF cap and 42 ohm resistor - a corner freq
of 0.8 Hz and only 6 dB/octave instead of 12 dB/octave for an L/C
filter.

The inductor shown should be a waste of time.
IF possible, connect your power cable birectly to the battery, not
an inside power recepticle or cig. lighter.

73, Steve, K9DCI
P.S. The inductor was 20 feet of 12 gauge hookup wire wound primarily
on one side of a Quick-Link (looks a little like a rock climbing
carabiner, but has a captive "nut" which turns to close the loop)


--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin & Natalia" <sparcnz@...> wrote:

Nigel,

Do you by chance have a copy of that article, I do not get that
publication down here, and I too have a problem with alternator whine
which I have not been able to get rid of.
A PDF would be great.

Thanks in advance.
Kevin, ZL1KFM.


----- Original Message -----
From: Nigel P. Service,VE1NPS
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 2:28 AM
Subject: [TMD700A] Re: Filters


Just found from the advice of OZ3AAJ a filter in the June
2007edition of QST, a very simple "you buid it" filter system for
alternator whine. Looks like that may just be the answer. What I am
also going to check on, and I should have done this first, is to see
if GM has a commercial filter system. They do after all provide a file
on VHF radio installation.

73
VE1NPS Nigel


Re: D700A on APRS

bailey macandrew
 

Ken, it sounds like you may simply have a squelch problem. When you turn on the CTCSS do you turn the squelch all the way down? The squelch must close, regardless of the tone-squelch state, before the radio will TX packets.
If this isn't your problem it may help others reading this.

AA, SF, Ca

sailingto <sailingto@yahoo.com> wrote: --- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, Jim Moody <nl7c@...> wrote:
>
> I have lived on the Gulf Coast in that area and it is flat! I have to
> assume that the digi's do not have a lot of height in that area and
> hence do not cover very large areas. The Wide2-2 is not sufficient >
siting! Many of the mobiles here run Wide6-6 and Wide7-7 when away
> from the cities so they can be tracked. I watched one yesterday with
a
> Wide7-1 when it made the IGATE.
> For you that want to flame, FIRE AWAY, I got a BIG BYTE BUCKET. You
> check with the APRS ops in this area and they all say the same thing!
>
> 73, JIM
> NL7C
> CDS digi
>

Thanks for the info Jim. In playing with the radio more today, I have
about decided the problem is not in the TNC myself. I have been runing
the "voice alert" (set PL100 for CTCSS - CT on display). I just
happened to turn it off today and bingo, I started getting digi'd a
LOTs. my interval is set at 30 seconds for today's testing (normally
set at 1 minute) and I would get digi'd at least 1 or 2 times each
minute. I say "digi'd" because "my pos" would appear on the display
and I'd hear beeps, usually 2 or 3 beeps - that tells me I have been
repeated by 2 or 3 digi's that are close enough for me to hear -
doesn't it? I turned the CT back on and suddenly the number of digi's
dropped a LOT. After 10 minutes of riding, I turned CTCSS off again
and the number of digi's picked back up agian. Of course it could be
different terrian, but this is over the same route I ride. I "think"
it means something but won't know for sure until trying a few more
times on different days on the same stretch of road.

Your statement about not having the WIDEn-N set high enough makes sense
because even with me getting digi'd 3 times (hearing 3 beeps) I still
would not make it to an Igate that often. Today's ride I'd get digi'd
at least 20 times on the ride, but come home and check findu.com and
there would only be 4 or 5 "tracks" and some of those would be several
miles apart. No where near as often as I was digi'd on the ride.

I will be out of town all next week, but will continue testing when I
return.

Thanks to all for the input.

73 de Ken H> K9FV (K9FV-1 and K9FV-2 for testing)






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Re: D700A on APRS

WØBJ
 

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "hardlyevrhom" <hardlyevr@...> wrote:

I also think you should try setting your path to Wide2-2. I do not
think that all digis will respond to the Wide1-1
Not correct. All digis should respond to WIDE1-1. The recommended
path for mobiles in the US is WIDE1-1,WIDE2-1. By using a path with
only WIDE2-2, you will be ignored by fill-in digis. Fill-in digis
will _only_ respond to WIDE1-1.

One of the limitations of the D700 is it's memory capacity,
which can be filled and jammed by a large packet from another type of
TNC or system.
I believe that you are referring to the tnc buffer issue. This only
causes problems when the D700 is being used in KISS mode by external
software. When the D700 is being used in internal APRS mode, this is
not a problem. Also, we are talking about packets originated by the
D700, so I don't see the relevance of your comment in this case.


Jim N0PTN


Re: D700A on APRS

sailingto <sailingto@...>
 

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, Jim Moody <nl7c@...> wrote:

I have lived on the Gulf Coast in that area and it is flat! I have to
assume that the digi's do not have a lot of height in that area and
hence do not cover very large areas. The Wide2-2 is not sufficient >
siting! Many of the mobiles here run Wide6-6 and Wide7-7 when away
from the cities so they can be tracked. I watched one yesterday with
a
Wide7-1 when it made the IGATE.
For you that want to flame, FIRE AWAY, I got a BIG BYTE BUCKET. You
check with the APRS ops in this area and they all say the same thing!

73, JIM
NL7C
CDS digi
Thanks for the info Jim. In playing with the radio more today, I have
about decided the problem is not in the TNC myself. I have been runing
the "voice alert" (set PL100 for CTCSS - CT on display). I just
happened to turn it off today and bingo, I started getting digi'd a
LOTs. my interval is set at 30 seconds for today's testing (normally
set at 1 minute) and I would get digi'd at least 1 or 2 times each
minute. I say "digi'd" because "my pos" would appear on the display
and I'd hear beeps, usually 2 or 3 beeps - that tells me I have been
repeated by 2 or 3 digi's that are close enough for me to hear -
doesn't it? I turned the CT back on and suddenly the number of digi's
dropped a LOT. After 10 minutes of riding, I turned CTCSS off again
and the number of digi's picked back up agian. Of course it could be
different terrian, but this is over the same route I ride. I "think"
it means something but won't know for sure until trying a few more
times on different days on the same stretch of road.

Your statement about not having the WIDEn-N set high enough makes sense
because even with me getting digi'd 3 times (hearing 3 beeps) I still
would not make it to an Igate that often. Today's ride I'd get digi'd
at least 20 times on the ride, but come home and check findu.com and
there would only be 4 or 5 "tracks" and some of those would be several
miles apart. No where near as often as I was digi'd on the ride.

I will be out of town all next week, but will continue testing when I
return.

Thanks to all for the input.

73 de Ken H> K9FV (K9FV-1 and K9FV-2 for testing)


Re: D700A on APRS

hardlyevrhom
 

I also think you should try setting your path to Wide2-2. I do not
think that all digis will respond to the Wide1-1, and if that is the
case then your beacon will only be digi'd one time with the 2-1
portion of your path. That might not be sufficient to reach an igate.
The fact that when you are in some areas and are making it to an
igate most likely means that there is NOT something wrong with the
radio. One of the limitations of the D700 is it's memory capacity,
which can be filled and jammed by a large packet from another type of
TNC or system. If this happens the best way to reset is to turn off
and on the BCON.

You might also want to check your ability to get in the system with a
track on
http://aprsworld.net/

Kurt
KC8RWD-14

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "sailingto" <sailingto@...> wrote:

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, John K9IJ <k9ij@> wrote:

At 06:19 PM 9/15/2007, you wrote:
Well, after some more testing today it really seems like I do
have
a
problem with this D700A.

Here is the track:
http://aprs.he.fi/?call=K9FV-1&mt=m&z=11&timerange=43200
What do you have it set to? Should be WIDE2-2

John - K9IJ
Thank you for the input John, I was using WIDE1-1,WIDE2-1 today.
for
the past week I've been using WIDE1-1,WIDE2-2 and I do get to an
IGate somewhat better, but still have the same problem - for at
least
95% of the time, ONLY the KI4ELU-7 digi will digi me first. Once
it
digi's me, I can make it ok.

If you looked at my track, you can see as I went on east on I-10 to
Pensacola, Fla I should have been in easy range of KB4HAH-7 and a
couple of other digi that are in the area... and i did not get to
any
of them.

I could see the antenna of the W4IAX digi and still could not get
into that digi. I set my path to W4IAX-7,WIDE2-2 today for a
test.
Then I got into N4TKT-2 which 351 miles away. I expect a local
digi
helped me there, but just didn't show. Could that have been the
W4IAX-7 digi and didn't put the call sign in?

I'll keep this short - I'm just VERY concerned my D700A has a bad
TNC board, and not sure how to prove it - it's only a month old.

I'm open to any and all suggestions. I will be happy to call you
and
talk if you will email me a phone number, OR I will email you a
phone
number to talk this thing thru.

73 de Ken H> K9FV-1


Re: D700A on APRS

Jim NL7C
 

I have lived on the Gulf Coast in that area and it is flat! I have to
assume that the digi's do not have a lot of height in that area and
hence do not cover very large areas. The Wide2-2 is not sufficient to
carry your packets to an IGATE in those areas.

I live in the Texas Panhandle now and our Digi's are approximately
50-80 miles apart. But that is not the whole story. To get from
Childress, where I live, my packets are digi'd here from CDS to MIA
(Miami, TX) 94 miles north of here, then west 83 miles to DUMAS, and
then south into Amarillo where the IGATE resides (223 miles). Amarillo
is only 105 miles from here, but this the shortest path to it. WIDE3-3
at a minimum when conditions are good, WIDE4-4 is best because the MIA
DUMAS can be a marginal path. WIDE4-4 is also required to get to the
IGATE near Wichita Falls (110 miles direct form here) but the digi
route is 337 miles!

There are some nearer Digi's but cannot always access them due to their
siting! Many of the mobiles here run Wide6-6 and Wide7-7 when away
from the cities so they can be tracked. I watched one yesterday with a
Wide7-1 when it made the IGATE. My mobile is on Wide4-4 except when I
am in Amarillo or Wichita Falls then it is Wide2-2.

Don't blame the equipment yet, put it on wide4-4 and see what happens.
You may still find blind areas, we stilll have lots at Wide7-7.
Depending on where you live you may have to change your UNPROTO as you
move around.

For you that want to flame, FIRE AWAY, I got a BIG BYTE BUCKET. You
check with the APRS ops in this area and they all say the same thing!

73, JIM
NL7C
CDS digi


Re: D700A on APRS

sailingto <sailingto@...>
 

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, "w7plz" <w7plz@...> wrote:

Ever think that the the problem just might be the digi setup.... I
see
the same out thing out here in AZ digi heaven

Peter W7PLZ
Hello Peter, just what do you mean by *problem just might be the digi
setup.... * - I'm new at this APRS stuff and need all the help I can
get.

73 de Ken H> K9FV-1


Re: D700A on APRS

w7plz <w7plz@...>
 

Ever think that the the problem just might be the digi setup.... I see
the same out thing out here in AZ digi heaven

Peter W7PLZ

-----Original Message-----
From: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TMD700A@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of John K9IJ
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 4:35 PM
To: TMD700A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [TMD700A] D700A on APRS



At 06:19 PM 9/15/2007, you wrote:
Well, after some more testing today it really seems like I do have a
problem with this D700A.

Here is the track:
http://aprs. <http://aprs.he.fi/?call=K9FV-1&mt=m&z=11&timerange=43200>
he.fi/?call=K9FV-1&mt=m&z=11&timerange=43200

That track is part of my ride today. I rode from Fairhope, AL to
Ocean Springs, MS, then back along hwy 90 to I-10. I followed I-10
all the way to Pensacola, Fla this afternoon where there are several
digipeaters. While riding over that way, I was digi'd several times
(my pos showing on faceplate), but never any that would get into a
Igate. It was only after I got back in range of KI4ELU-7 that I got
picked up. and even when that station does digi me, a good bit of my
packets never make it to an IGate (don't show up on findu.com)
Looking at findu, it looks like you might have an unproto path problem.
What do you have it set to? Should be WIDE2-2

John - K9IJ

-

John Rice K9IJ
k9ij@vx5.com <mailto:k9ij%40vx5.com>
Webmaster, Network Admin, Janitor
http://www.k9ij. <http://www.k9ij.com> com
http://www.suhfars. <http://www.suhfars.org> org
http://www.k9ij. <http://www.k9ij.com:8080> com:8080 APRS Webserver


Re: D700A on APRS

sailingto <sailingto@...>
 

--- In TMD700A@yahoogroups.com, John K9IJ <k9ij@...> wrote:

At 06:19 PM 9/15/2007, you wrote:
Well, after some more testing today it really seems like I do have
a
problem with this D700A.

Here is the track:
http://aprs.he.fi/?call=K9FV-1&mt=m&z=11&timerange=43200
What do you have it set to? Should be WIDE2-2

John - K9IJ
Thank you for the input John, I was using WIDE1-1,WIDE2-1 today. for
the past week I've been using WIDE1-1,WIDE2-2 and I do get to an
IGate somewhat better, but still have the same problem - for at least
95% of the time, ONLY the KI4ELU-7 digi will digi me first. Once it
digi's me, I can make it ok.

If you looked at my track, you can see as I went on east on I-10 to
Pensacola, Fla I should have been in easy range of KB4HAH-7 and a
couple of other digi that are in the area... and i did not get to any
of them.

I could see the antenna of the W4IAX digi and still could not get
into that digi. I set my path to W4IAX-7,WIDE2-2 today for a test.
Then I got into N4TKT-2 which 351 miles away. I expect a local digi
helped me there, but just didn't show. Could that have been the
W4IAX-7 digi and didn't put the call sign in?

I'll keep this short - I'm just VERY concerned my D700A has a bad
TNC board, and not sure how to prove it - it's only a month old.

I'm open to any and all suggestions. I will be happy to call you and
talk if you will email me a phone number, OR I will email you a phone
number to talk this thing thru.

73 de Ken H> K9FV-1


Re: D700A on APRS

John K9IJ <k9ij@...>
 

At 06:19 PM 9/15/2007, you wrote:
Well, after some more testing today it really seems like I do have a
problem with this D700A.

Here is the track:
http://aprs.he.fi/?call=K9FV-1&mt=m&z=11&timerange=43200

That track is part of my ride today. I rode from Fairhope, AL to
Ocean Springs, MS, then back along hwy 90 to I-10. I followed I-10
all the way to Pensacola, Fla this afternoon where there are several
digipeaters. While riding over that way, I was digi'd several times
(my pos showing on faceplate), but never any that would get into a
Igate. It was only after I got back in range of KI4ELU-7 that I got
picked up. and even when that station does digi me, a good bit of my
packets never make it to an IGate (don't show up on findu.com)
Looking at findu, it looks like you might have an unproto path problem.
What do you have it set to? Should be WIDE2-2

John - K9IJ



-

John Rice K9IJ
k9ij@vx5.com
Webmaster, Network Admin, Janitor
http://www.k9ij.com
http://www.suhfars.org
http://www.k9ij.com:8080 APRS Webserver

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