Hi There, I have been fixing up an old indexer made in Japan (I think it was made in the 1960's of 70's). It is the "standard" B&S semi-universal type and pretty nice quality (compare to the Chinese o

Hi, Gang, I feel a tad bit silly just now noticing--after 9 years--that the nuts for the change gears on my 9C are 25/32". I suppose I've always used an adjustable wrench till last night, when I decid

I have no connection with this sale, just passing on the listing. SOUTHBEND LATHE BOOK - tools - by owner - sale SOUTHBEND LATHE BOOK - tools - by owner - sale THIS IS AN ORIGINAL SOUTH BEND LATHE INS

Hey All, Everything is together. Just listening for sounds. Little vibration from the motor/counter shaft area. Not terrible, Might be the bench. The back gears seem to mesh loosely with the main gear

Hey Guys, Need someone to take a look at their 9c, or enlighten me a bit. I am assembling the reversing assembly, and there there is a reverse gear, as well as a similar sized smooth collar or spacer

Hi There, There is an auction on eBay for a "Heavy" 10K milling attachment. I have never seen or heard of a "Heavy" 10K before and as far as I know, there isn't one. Here is a link to the auction: Hea

Not sure if there's a separate group for mills or not, didn't see one. I have a MIL 3212 mill bought at a university auction that is missing the correct motor pulley. They installed a single sheave, p

My brother has two SB lathes. He is keeping the 13" and selling the 9". I think it's a W model, made for a bench top. It's in Prescott Valley, AZ. He has an engine host for loading. Said he's thinking

Hi There, In my last update, I mentioned that the jaws on my Nine Inch Follower Rest didn't align correctly. To elaborate, here is a pic: I noticed that when the jaws are aligned, the guide slot on th

been thinking about this a lot as I have some projects that would require a pretty precise arc to be placed on a turned shank. Has anyone attempted to make what I consider as an a-frame pivot? basical

Update. Checked the runout on the outside of the countershaft pulley, with no v-belt. Its about 0.003. Not sure if this is good or bad, or for that matter, what I could do about it. Also, according to

Am restoring a 9A and will shortly be putting the apron back together and the half nuts are really, really not good. The leadscrew seems not bad at all - at least, the thread at the headstock end is v

Evening All, Got the switch wired, just waiting on a new cord the make it complete. Also waiting on a die to chase the threads on the saddle handle. So I moved onto the drive system. Put everything to

Found this on eBay: You can use it as inspiration to see how others have dealt with the repair. https://www.ebay.com/itm/370669196159?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908

Hi There, Well, I've made the parts to complete my Steady Rests I had. To recap, I had 2 stead rests (one for a Nine Inch and one for a Heavy Ten). The Heavy Ten I will keep but I am going to sell the

Webb: Nice work on the steady rest rebuild. Have you considered making bearing tipped fingers instead of the std brass ones? It's a project that has long been on my list, although for the amount that

not mine , just passing it along location Canton, GA https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2824180787897961/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_se

Hey guys. While I am waiting on my die to do a repairs on my compound screw, I figured I would start thinking about wiring my new motor to the existing drum switch. I believe that recently someone pos

Speaking of the 1946 G-E motor... The short-time second and previous owner of my 1946 9C found that the motor did not run. He compiled as much info about it as he could and proceeded to disassemble it

I have a new to me machine and the thermal overload reset switch has been removed. The single phase 115 / 230 motor seems to run normally. Is it wise to try to restore the overload protection? Is it a