|
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either
stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought
you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many
others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2
degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss
tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the
degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut,
I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees
was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Davis Johnson <davis@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 2:51 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
eddie.draper@btinternet.com
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Davis Johnson <davis@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 2:51 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly. My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
Yup. That is why 18" is probably safer. Can't fit anything there that would not interfere with the lathe.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of eddie.draper@... via groups.io <eddie.draper@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 4:10 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Davis Johnson <davis@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 2:51 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
Bill in OKC too
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. SEMPER GUMBY!
On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 03:10:31 PM CST, eddie.draper@... via groups.io <eddie.draper@...> wrote:
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Davis Johnson <davis@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 2:51 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly. My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 6:59 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
On Tuesday, November 15, 2022 at 03:10:31 PM CST, eddie.draper@... via groups.io <eddie.draper@...> wrote:
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Davis Johnson <davis@...>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2022 2:51 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
The markings are never accurate enough. If the angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the cross slide measuring the work). There are other ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A < b-arch@...> wrote:
All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
-- "well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
|
|
|
Allan is right, the markings are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one indicator:
- Set the compound at the approximate angle with the markings.
- Mount an indicator on the compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height.
- Do some math: Find the short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872".
- When you traverse the compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial should move the length of the triangle side you calculated: 0.0872"
- Adjust the compound angle until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it should get you very close.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m. allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote:
The markings are never accurate enough. If the angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the cross slide measuring the work). There are other ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A < b-arch@...> wrote:
All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
-- "well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
|
|
|
Jim_B
If you have an existing taper, and you can mount it true to the bed, then, using a DI you can set the compound to match the existing taper exactly (Well very closely.)
In the picture, I am offsetting the tailstock, which has a small boring head inserted, to match an existing B&S taper.
Dr. James A Benjamin 1629 Riverview Drive. Apt 416 Deerfield Beach, FL 33441
On Nov 16, 2022, at 7:42 AM, E A < b-arch@...> wrote:
All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90? Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck. What am I missing?
Erik A
_._,_._,_
--
Jim B
|
|
|
It's been quit some time since I turned a taper & I
don't have my lathe in front ot me , but I'm Take it to 90 deg
& back it off 5 deg " ( 85 deg ) ?
animal
animal
On 11/16/2022 4:42 AM, E A wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
All, back to my original question... How does one cut an
accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at
90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the
other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but
then your hand interferes with the chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R.
Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your schedule.
The only
reason I know anything is because I've done it
wrong enough times to START to know better
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque.
Seems to be what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
|
|
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Allan is right, the markings
are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one
indicator:
- Set the compound at the
approximate angle with the markings.
- Mount an indicator on the
compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height.
- Do some math: Find the
short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a
known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to
hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872".
- When you traverse the
compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial
should move the length of the triangle side you calculated:
0.0872"
- Adjust the compound angle
until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it
should get you very close.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m.
allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote:
The markings are never accurate enough. If the
angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure
the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with
marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is
to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial
indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the
cross slide measuring the work). There are other
ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed,
Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A < b-arch@...>
wrote:
All,
back to my original question... How does one
cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so)
when the markings stop at 90?
Am
I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the
compound the other direction, you
theoretically can set it accurately, but then
your hand interferes with the chuck.
What
am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt,
USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes
from bad judgement.
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only
reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong
enough times to START to know
better
That's 30" you can fill with
antiques or junque. Seems to be
what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
--
"well,
I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with
the edge of my hand"
|
|
|
I wish the south bends had more flat (and machined) surfaces on the cross slide and compound for things like this.
It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3 block and run up against the chuck to set an angle like this, but there are few flat surfaces to set things against. I imagine you could make something that slid into the toolpost mounting T-Slot and registered against the machined sides of that (they are *probably* parallel to the dovetails...)
I was considering the other night the thought of machining / fabricating a cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in order to have more fixturing options, greater rigidity, and machined surfaces for setups like this.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13 AM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail . set it on
your chuck & the compound .
https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
animal
On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via
groups.io wrote:
Allan is right, the markings
are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one
indicator:
- Set the compound at the
approximate angle with the markings.
- Mount an indicator on the
compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height.
- Do some math: Find the
short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a
known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to
hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872".
- When you traverse the
compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial
should move the length of the triangle side you calculated:
0.0872"
- Adjust the compound angle
until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it
should get you very close.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m.
allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote:
The markings are never accurate enough. If the
angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure
the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with
marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is
to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial
indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the
cross slide measuring the work). There are other
ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed,
Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A < b-arch@...>
wrote:
All,
back to my original question... How does one
cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so)
when the markings stop at 90?
Am
I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the
compound the other direction, you
theoretically can set it accurately, but then
your hand interferes with the chuck.
What
am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt,
USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes
from bad judgement.
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only
reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong
enough times to START to know
better
That's 30" you can fill with
antiques or junque. Seems to be
what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
--
"well,
I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with
the edge of my hand"
|
|
|
ww_big_al
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Rogan Creswick
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2022 6:48 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up I wish the south bends had more flat (and machined) surfaces on the cross slide and compound for things like this. It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3 block and run up against the chuck to set an angle like this, but there are few flat surfaces to set things against. I imagine you could make something that slid into the toolpost mounting T-Slot and registered against the machined sides of that (they are *probably* parallel to the dovetails...) I was considering the other night the thought of machining / fabricating a cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in order to have more fixturing options, greater rigidity, and machined surfaces for setups like this. On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13 AM mike allen <animal@...> wrote: I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail . set it on your chuck & the compound . https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 animal On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via groups.io wrote: Allan is right, the markings are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one indicator: - Set the compound at the approximate angle with the markings. - Mount an indicator on the compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height. - Do some math: Find the short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872". - When you traverse the compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial should move the length of the triangle side you calculated: 0.0872" - Adjust the compound angle until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it should get you very close. On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m. allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote: The markings are never accurate enough. If the angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the cross slide measuring the work). There are other ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex. On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A <b-arch@...> wrote: All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90? Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :) William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me. Eddie
------ Original Message ------ From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...> To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere. As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall. A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off. On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote: So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly. My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see? Erik A
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
|
|
|
Oh, that's interesting! Seems like a reasonable price, too. Especially if the T-slots are already milled.
The other thing I'd like to get out of this change is space to attach a DRO.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 3:59 PM ww_big_al < arknack@...> wrote: MLA Tools has a cast kit to do this. http://mlatoolbox.com/S-4382.html Paula on practical machinist forum did a excellent writeup on making it. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/machining-a-t-slotted-cross-slide.177054/ Al I wish the south bends had more flat (and machined) surfaces on the cross slide and compound for things like this. It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3 block and run up against the chuck to set an angle like this, but there are few flat surfaces to set things against. I imagine you could make something that slid into the toolpost mounting T-Slot and registered against the machined sides of that (they are *probably* parallel to the dovetails...) I was considering the other night the thought of machining / fabricating a cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in order to have more fixturing options, greater rigidity, and machined surfaces for setups like this. On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13 AM mike allen <animal@...> wrote: I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail . set it on your chuck & the compound . https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 animal On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via groups.io wrote: Allan is right, the markings are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one indicator: - Set the compound at the approximate angle with the markings. - Mount an indicator on the compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height. - Do some math: Find the short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872". - When you traverse the compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial should move the length of the triangle side you calculated: 0.0872" - Adjust the compound angle until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it should get you very close. On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m. allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote: The markings are never accurate enough. If the angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the cross slide measuring the work). There are other ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex. On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A <b-arch@...> wrote: All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90? Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :) William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me. Eddie
------ Original Message ------ From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...> To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere. As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall. A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off. On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote: So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly. My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see? Erik A
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
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|
|
The dovetail is the elephant in the room . From looking
at them its a pretty simple one to make " if " you have the
ability to cut dovetails .
animal
On 11/16/2022 4:31 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Oh, that's interesting! Seems like a reasonable
price, too. Especially if the T-slots are already milled.
The other thing I'd like to get out of this change is space
to attach a DRO.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 3:59
PM ww_big_al < arknack@...>
wrote:
MLA Tools has a cast kit to
do this.
http://mlatoolbox.com/S-4382.html
Paula on practical machinist
forum did a excellent writeup on making it.
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/machining-a-t-slotted-cross-slide.177054/
Al
I wish the south bends had more
flat (and machined) surfaces on the cross slide and
compound for things like this.
It would be convenient to use
an angle block / 1-2-3 block and run up against
the chuck to set an angle like this, but there are
few flat surfaces to set things against. I
imagine you could make something that slid into
the toolpost mounting T-Slot and registered
against the machined sides of that (they are
*probably* parallel to the dovetails...)
I was considering the other
night the thought of machining / fabricating a
cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in
order to have more fixturing options, greater
rigidity, and machined surfaces for setups like
this.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13
AM mike allen <animal@...>
wrote:
I forgot to put the protractor in my last
mail . set it on your chuck & the compound .
https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
animal
On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM,
Tyler via groups.io
wrote:
Allan
is right, the markings are not very
accurate, but you can set an angle with
only one indicator:
-
Set the compound at the approximate
angle with the markings.
-
Mount an indicator on the compound
perpendicular to the work, and on center
height.
-
Do some math: Find the short side length
of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of
a known length, like 1.000", and the
angle you are trying to hit, like 5
degrees. This would be 0.0872".
-
When you traverse the compound by the
hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator
dial should move the length of the
triangle side you calculated: 0.0872"
-
Adjust the compound angle until you can
hit the correct number. This is tedious
but it should get you very close.
On
Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at
06:56:44 AM CST, m. allan noah <kitno455@...>
wrote:
The
markings are never accurate
enough. If the angle is
critical, you make test cuts
and measure the workpiece. One
way is to test the fit with
marking blue and a matching
socket. Another way is to
measure the workpiece using a
pair of dial indicators (one
measuring the long feed, one
on the cross slide measuring
the work). There are other
ways, but I find them less
accurate or more complex.
On
Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E
A <b-arch@...>
wrote:
All, back to my original question...
How does one cut an
accurate taper (like 5
degrees or so) when the
markings stop at 90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If
you rotate the compound
the other direction, you
theoretically can set it
accurately, but then
your hand interferes
with the chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm.
I resemble that
remark. :)
William
R. Meyers, MSgt,
USAF(Ret.)
Good
judgement
comes from
experience.
Experience
comes from bad
judgement.
Improvise,
Adapt, and
Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care
about your
schedule.
The only
reason I know
anything is
because I've
done it wrong
enough times
to START to
know better
That's
30" you can
fill with
antiques or
junque. Seems
to be what
happens to me.
Eddie
------
Original
Message ------
From: "Andrei"
<calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io"
<SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday,
15 Nov, 22 At
20:24 Subject:
Re:
[SouthBendLathe]
follow up to
my follow up
General
advice is to
keep the lathe
30 inches away
from a wall,
however, a
human needs a
minimum of 18
inches to fit
somewhere.
As
usual, your
mileage may
vary.
Or
put the fixed
mark in the
rear? On mine
at least. You
either stand
on your head
or use a
mirror. My
guess is that
they thought
you would just
walk around to
the back. My
lathe (and a
great many
others) is
against a
wall.
A
previous owner
added a mark
in front, but
they got it
about 2
degrees off.
On
11/15/22
14:20, E A
wrote:
So per
folks's
suggestions, I
turned a plug
to fit into my
ss tubing at 5
degrees, which
worked
perfectly.
My
question is
about the
compound
slide... Why
did SB stop
the degree
marks at 90?
To set the
compound up
for my 5
degree cut, I
had to
overshoot 90,
and take a
guess as to
what 5 degrees
was. Did SB
have some
greater plan
that I fail to
see? Erik A
--
"well,
I stand up next to a mountain-
and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"
|
|
|
I don't have a taper attachment for my lathe , but with
the prices for these things these days the only way I will ever
get one is
1. if it falls of a truck in front of my place (which is
highly unlikely since I own the road & no one can drive by
my place )
2. Someone wants to sell me one for nickels on the dollar
3. If I make one .
I'm guessin it will be 3 but anyways I do have the part
that bolts on to the back of the saddle , & that give me a
great place to put a indicator for checkin my work & setups
without getting in the way of anything . It would be
a real easy part to make & is super helpful. .
animal
On 11/16/2022 3:47 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I wish the south bends had more flat (and machined)
surfaces on the cross slide and compound for things like this.
It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3 block
and run up against the chuck to set an angle like this, but
there are few flat surfaces to set things against. I imagine
you could make something that slid into the toolpost mounting
T-Slot and registered against the machined sides of that (they
are *probably* parallel to the dovetails...)
I was considering the other night the thought of machining
/ fabricating a cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in
order to have more fixturing options, greater rigidity, and
machined surfaces for setups like this.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13
AM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail . set
it on your chuck & the compound .
https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
animal
On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via groups.io wrote:
Allan is right, the markings are not very
accurate, but you can set an angle with only one
indicator:
- Set the compound at the approximate
angle with the markings.
- Mount an indicator on the compound
perpendicular to the work, and on center height.
- Do some math: Find the short side
length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a
known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are
trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872".
- When you traverse the compound by the
hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial should
move the length of the triangle side you calculated:
0.0872"
- Adjust the compound angle until you can
hit the correct number. This is tedious but it should
get you very close.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM
CST, m. allan noah <kitno455@...>
wrote:
The markings are never accurate enough.
If the angle is critical, you make test cuts
and measure the workpiece. One way is to
test the fit with marking blue and a
matching socket. Another way is to measure
the workpiece using a pair of dial
indicators (one measuring the long feed, one
on the cross slide measuring the work).
There are other ways, but I find them less
accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM
E A < b-arch@...>
wrote:
All,
back to my original question... How
does one cut an accurate taper (like 5
degrees or so) when the markings stop
at 90?
Am
I going the wrong direction? If you
rotate the compound the other
direction, you theoretically can set
it accurately, but then your hand
interferes with the chuck.
What
am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that
remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R.
Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement
comes from
experience.
Experience comes
from bad judgement.
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about
your schedule.
The
only reason I know
anything is because
I've done it wrong
enough times to START
to know better
That's 30" you can fill
with antiques or junque.
Seems to be what happens
to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see?
Erik A
--
"well, I stand up next to a
mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of
my hand"
|
|
|
Bill in OKC too
They're not milled, they're cast in, ready to machine.
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. SEMPER GUMBY!
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:31:24 PM CST, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:
Oh, that's interesting! Seems like a reasonable price, too. Especially if the T-slots are already milled.
The other thing I'd like to get out of this change is space to attach a DRO.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 3:59 PM ww_big_al < arknack@...> wrote: MLA Tools has a cast kit to do this. http://mlatoolbox.com/S-4382.html Paula on practical machinist forum did a excellent writeup on making it. https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/machining-a-t-slotted-cross-slide.177054/ Al I wish the south bends had more flat (and machined) surfaces on the cross slide and compound for things like this. It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3 block and run up against the chuck to set an angle like this, but there are few flat surfaces to set things against. I imagine you could make something that slid into the toolpost mounting T-Slot and registered against the machined sides of that (they are *probably* parallel to the dovetails...) I was considering the other night the thought of machining / fabricating a cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in order to have more fixturing options, greater rigidity, and machined surfaces for setups like this. On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13 AM mike allen <animal@...> wrote: I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail . set it on your chuck & the compound . https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 animal On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via groups.io wrote: Allan is right, the markings are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one indicator: - Set the compound at the approximate angle with the markings. - Mount an indicator on the compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height. - Do some math: Find the short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872". - When you traverse the compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial should move the length of the triangle side you calculated: 0.0872" - Adjust the compound angle until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it should get you very close. On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m. allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote: The markings are never accurate enough. If the angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial indicators (one measuring the long feed, one on the cross slide measuring the work). There are other ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex. On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A <b-arch@...> wrote: All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90? Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :) William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me. Eddie
------ Original Message ------ From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...> To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere. As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall. A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off. On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote: So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly. My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see? Erik A
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
|
|
|
Mike, there are several videos o people making the taper attachments. Did not seem to be overly complicated.
PS
I am not making one for myself.... ever
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of mike allen <animal@...>
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2022 9:10 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
I don't have a taper attachment for my lathe , but with the prices for these things these days the only way I will ever get one is
1. if it falls of a truck in front of my place (which is highly unlikely since I own the road & no one can drive by my place )
2. Someone wants to sell me one for nickels on the dollar
3. If I make one .
I'm guessin it will be 3 but anyways I do have the part that bolts on to the back of the saddle , & that give me a great place to put a indicator for checkin my work & setups without getting in the way of anything . It would be a real
easy part to make & is super helpful. .
animal
On 11/16/2022 3:47 PM, Rogan Creswick wrote:
I wish the south bends had more flat (and machined) surfaces on the cross slide and compound for things like this.
It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3 block and run up against the chuck to set an angle like this, but there are few flat surfaces to set things against. I imagine you could make something that slid into the toolpost mounting T-Slot and
registered against the machined sides of that (they are *probably* parallel to the dovetails...)
I was considering the other night the thought of machining / fabricating a cross slide with a toolholder--no compound--in order to have more fixturing options, greater rigidity, and machined surfaces for setups like this.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 10:13 AM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail . set it on your chuck & the compound .
https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
animal
On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via
groups.io wrote:
Allan is right, the markings are not very accurate, but you can set an angle with only one indicator:
- Set the compound at the approximate angle with the markings.
- Mount an indicator on the compound perpendicular to the work, and on center height.
- Do some math: Find the short side length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be 0.0872".
- When you traverse the compound by the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial should move the length of the triangle side you calculated: 0.0872"
- Adjust the compound angle until you can hit the correct number. This is tedious but it should get you very close.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44 AM CST, m. allan noah
<kitno455@...> wrote:
The markings are never accurate enough. If the angle is critical, you make test cuts and measure the workpiece. One way is to test the fit with marking blue and a matching socket. Another way is to measure the workpiece using a pair of dial indicators
(one measuring the long feed, one on the cross slide measuring the work). There are other ways, but I find them less accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at 7:42 AM E A < b-arch@...> wrote:
All, back to my original question... How does one cut an accurate taper (like 5 degrees or so) when the markings stop at 90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If you rotate the compound the other direction, you theoretically can set it accurately, but then your hand interferes with the chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better
That's 30" you can fill with antiques or junque. Seems to be what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------ From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...> To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io"
<SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see? Erik A
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
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I seen a couple of them . I have a bud that is a full
blown machinist that I plan to get the pro's & cons of the
different taper attachments he has on some of his lathes . I'll
also show him some
of the tubes on them & see what he has to say
about them . Seems that all the ones i see are for a short part @
5-10 " . What if a guy wants to turn down & taper a rifle
barrel . Does he do it
5 " at a time & then re-setup ? I'm thinking that if
I make one it will be the length between centers on my lathe ?
animal
On 11/16/2022 7:06 PM, Andrei wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mike, there are several videos o people making the taper
attachments. Did not seem to be overly complicated.
PS
I am not making one for myself.... ever
I don't have a taper attachment for my lathe , but
with the prices for these things these days the only way I
will ever get one is
1. if it falls of a truck in front of my place
(which is highly unlikely since I own the road & no one
can drive by my place )
2. Someone wants to sell me one for nickels on the
dollar
3. If I make one .
I'm guessin it will be 3 but anyways I do have the
part that bolts on to the back of the saddle , & that give
me a great place to put a indicator for checkin my work &
setups without getting in the way of anything .
It would be a real easy part to make & is super helpful. .
animal
On 11/16/2022 3:47 PM, Rogan
Creswick wrote:
I wish the south bends had more flat (and
machined) surfaces on the cross slide and compound for
things like this.
It would be convenient to use an angle block / 1-2-3
block and run up against the chuck to set an angle like
this, but there are few flat surfaces to set things
against. I imagine you could make something that slid
into the toolpost mounting T-Slot and registered against
the machined sides of that (they are *probably* parallel
to the dovetails...)
I was considering the other night the thought of
machining / fabricating a cross slide with a
toolholder--no compound--in order to have more fixturing
options, greater rigidity, and machined surfaces for
setups like this.
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at
10:13 AM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
I forgot to put the protractor in my last mail .
set it on your chuck & the compound .
https://www.amazon.com/VOLCANOES-CLUB-Digital-Angle-Finder-Protractor/dp/B09PN8CQH7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsdKbBhDHARIsANJ6-jdsmSKC5KBsU8eITCCuqNdZ25CMya_6_N4pok28hMiXVaeDRN3PRHoaAsNiEALw_wcB&hvadid=409948644601&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032186&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17812276858912524318&hvtargid=kwd-1126019736&hydadcr=1638_11256579&keywords=adjustable+protractor&qid=1668621961&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
animal
On 11/16/2022 7:33 AM, Tyler via
groups.io wrote:
Allan is right, the markings are not
very accurate, but you can set an angle with only
one indicator:
- Set the compound at the approximate
angle with the markings.
- Mount an indicator on the compound
perpendicular to the work, and on center height.
- Do some math: Find the short side
length of a right triangle with a hypotenuse of a
known length, like 1.000", and the angle you are
trying to hit, like 5 degrees. This would be
0.0872".
- When you traverse the compound by
the hypotenuse length 1.000", the indicator dial
should move the length of the triangle side you
calculated: 0.0872"
- Adjust the compound angle until you
can hit the correct number. This is tedious but
it should get you very close.
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 06:56:44
AM CST, m. allan noah
<kitno455@...> wrote:
The markings are never accurate
enough. If the angle is critical, you
make test cuts and measure the
workpiece. One way is to test the fit
with marking blue and a matching socket.
Another way is to measure the workpiece
using a pair of dial indicators (one
measuring the long feed, one on the
cross slide measuring the work). There
are other ways, but I find them less
accurate or more complex.
allan
On Wed, Nov 16, 2022 at
7:42 AM E A < b-arch@...>
wrote:
All, back to my original
question... How does one cut an
accurate taper (like 5 degrees or
so) when the markings stop at 90?
Am I going the wrong direction? If
you rotate the compound the other
direction, you theoretically can
set it accurately, but then your
hand interferes with the
chuck.
What am I missing?
Erik A
Hmmm. I resemble that
remark. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt,
USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by:
Good
judgement comes
from experience.
Experience comes
from bad
judgement.
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only reason I know anything
is because I've
done it wrong
enough times to
START to know
better
That's
30" you can fill
with antiques or
junque. Seems to be
what happens to me.
Eddie
------ Original Message ------ From: "Andrei" <calciu1@...> To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io"
<SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Sent: Tuesday, 15 Nov, 22 At 20:24 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] follow up to my follow up
General advice is to keep the lathe 30 inches away from a wall, however, a human needs a minimum of 18 inches to fit somewhere.
As usual, your mileage may vary.
Or put the fixed mark in the rear? On mine at least. You either stand on your head or use a mirror. My guess is that they thought you would just walk around to the back. My lathe (and a great many others) is against a wall.
A previous owner added a mark in front, but they got it about 2 degrees off.
On 11/15/22 14:20, E A wrote:
So per folks's suggestions, I turned a plug to fit into my ss tubing at 5 degrees, which worked perfectly.
My question is about the compound slide... Why did SB stop the degree marks at 90? To set the compound up for my 5 degree cut, I had to overshoot 90, and take a guess as to what 5 degrees was. Did SB have some greater plan that I fail to see? Erik A
--
"well, I stand up next to a
mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"
|
|
|
