A very different T-Nut.


Jim_B
 

I dug up this old project up. I had to modify it to include the pictures. Originally they were on photo bucket. 

I thought it might be of interest. 

Hope it comes through. 




Jim B.

Dr. James A Benjamin
1629 Riverview Drive. Apt 416
Deerfield Beach, FL 33441




--
Jim B


Nick Andrews
 

Pretty cool repair.  Sometimes doing just one project like this completely justifies the having of a tool such as a lathe.

On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 3:41 PM Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:
I dug up this old project up. I had to modify it to include the pictures. Originally they were on photo bucket. 

I thought it might be of interest. 

Hope it comes through. 




Jim B.

Dr. James A Benjamin
1629 Riverview Drive. Apt 416
Deerfield Beach, FL 33441




--
Jim B


Ray De Jong
 

Very nice account Jim. I have had a similar exoerience - buying special tool, waiting etc. and finaly making my own 'mock-up' that worked just fine. Any way, Jim I really enjoyed that and your other MG escapades as well.
Ray


On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 01:41:34 PM PST, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


I dug up this old project up. I had to modify it to include the pictures. Originally they were on photo bucket. 

I thought it might be of interest. 

Hope it comes through. 




Jim B.

Dr. James A Benjamin
1629 Riverview Drive. Apt 416
Deerfield Beach, FL 33441




--
Jim B


J Bothwell
 


Milling on the lathe w/out a milling attachment (rate my setup)
My first choice would be to run a 3/16" diameter 3 or 4-flute end mill but the runout will probably go over your .190" a little bit because of the chuck.  You could try to indicate that end mill shank but still...  If the .190" is your high tolerance - try a 5/32 or 4mm diameter end mill.  Also, the more the flutes, the stronger the end mill and then faster the feed.

If we take 80 SFM as the speed that this cast iron wants to be cut at - we get around 1,625 RPM. (80 x 3.82)/.188.  You'll probably have to feed this faster than you think and maybe your axial depth of cut will be modest but increasing the speed should help you considerably.  I'd give you the feed numbers but this is a manual so you'll have to feel it out.  Good luck!  The other Jim B.



Payson
 

Very cool. I don't think anyone I know ever thought of indexing like that on the lathe. Thanks for the idea.

Payson.


Jim_B
 

Actually thats a Burke #4 Mill. It has both a horizontal and vertical mode. 

BUT

There is a way to do it on the SB. 
The back gears can be used as (Limited) indexing. Some multiples of 3 and 2 are available. 
As I remember there are 24 different positions. You do need to approximately mark the spots first and if using a multiple of 3, you need to start on the correct indexing position. 

You also need a cross drilling fixture. 


Shown above I am drilling 4 holes on a bolt circle. The work is held in the spindle and indexed and locked using the back gears. 

Drilling is done by a shop made cross drilling fixture that works on the QCTP.
Here is what I used. 


The chuck was scrap. the rod is ground. Bearing needs a flange to handle the thrust. 
I later added a rear bearing. . 



An external drill provides the power. 


Jim B.

Dr. James A Benjamin
1629 Riverview Drive. Apt 416
Deerfield Beach, FL 33441



On Mar 1, 2023, at 2:51 PM, Payson <egreene104@...> wrote:

Very cool. I don't think anyone I know ever thought of indexing like that on the lathe. Thanks for the idea.

Payson.


--
Jim B