Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k
Rogan Creswick
I don't know that I have the right terms here, but hopefully with pictures they suffice. My lathe went through a fire, and all the felt brunt up, including the felt washer that went between the spindle take-up nit and the casting. I replaced it with the suggested fix I found on line at the time, which was a thin needle bearing and two thin hardened washers. You can see these in the picture. Now, I've just reassembled everything, and the lever that engages the gearbox won't seat properly in the casting because the take-up nut is further out from the casting than it was with the felt washer. I can imagine any number of solutions here, but I'd like your suggestions. Thanks! Rogan |
|
|
|
Rick
I’d probably just machine a little off the lever. Option two would be to take a face cut off the nut. If I was to take it off the nut, I would take 1/2 off each side of the nut to keep it symmetrical.
|
|
|
|
m. allan noah
One side of the takeup nut has to stay true to the spindle, the other does not. I would take a skim cut only on the outer side. allan On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 9:26 PM Rick <vwrick@...> wrote: I’d probably just machine a little off the lever. Option two would be to take a face cut off the nut. If I was to take it off the nut, I would take 1/2 off each side of the nut to keep it symmetrical. -- "well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand" |
|
|
|
Mel Gross
Obviously the bearing is too thick. I don’t like the idea of taking the cast iron lever down. If you really want to keep the bearing, my suggestion is to take the nut down a bit at the rear - away from the bearing. You can do that with a mill if you have no way to machine it if it’s off the lathe.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mel On Sep 26, 2022, at 8:50 PM, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Mike Poore
This may not be helpful, but I did not have any interference doing
the same thing on a 9A. Your bearing & shims looks thicker than
mine. I also have a good .075"+- clearance where you have
interference. Maybe someone could measure the thickness of an oem
fiber shim to compare to your bearing/shims. I seem to remember the
bearing supplier having different thicknesses of shims and thrust
bearings. I got the thinnest available.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Did you by chance use a reverse lever from a different lathe? Did all of these parts come from the same lathe? Maybe there are some tolerance issues. Is the lock pin for the reverse lever pin engaged with the hole? Maybe it is an illusion, but in the picture it looks like the lever is pushed in too far. On 9/26/2022 8:49 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
|
|
|
|
Andrei
Why is it so hard to reinstall the appropriate washer in there? You can find them for 10-20 bucks nothing on eBay. Why machine away irreplaceable parts of your machine, instead of dropping a 20 on a cheap replacement part?
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Mel Gross <melgross@...>
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 10:09 PM To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k Obviously the bearing is too thick. I don’t like the idea of taking the cast iron lever down. If you really want to keep the bearing, my suggestion is to take the nut down a bit at the rear - away from the bearing. You can do that with a mill
if you have no way to machine it if it’s off the lathe.
Mel On Sep 26, 2022, at 8:50 PM, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Rick
Andrei, I feel that the needle bearing upgrade is worth the effort. The fiber washer was just cheaper for South Bend. All the larger SB lathes have a bearing, not a fiber washer there.
Allan, you are absolutely right that the nut has to stay true to the spindle, but I don’t think it would be that hard to indicate it in before taking a cut on my other lathe. Better yet, use a surface grinder. Mel, hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like only .020” or so would have to be taken off the side of the lever, and only in a small area. The loss of strength would be insignificant, imho. |
|
|
|
Davis Johnson
Also - there are thick and thin versions of the spacer washers.
You need to make sure you have the thin ones. McMaster-Carr has
pretty good drawings and explanations. The stack for my 9A ended
up only slightly thicker than the washer and posed no problem. On 9/27/22 07:10, Rick wrote:
Andrei, I feel that the needle bearing upgrade is worth the effort. The fiber washer was just cheaper for South Bend. All the larger SB lathes have a bearing, not a fiber washer there. |
|
|
|
I want to understand the problem. Are you referring to the gear mesh between the lead screw lever and large gear? If so, I had the same problem on my 10k after cleaning and felting it. The solution is your head stock is out of alignment. Just loosen the the two bolts on the bottom of the head stock and use a soft face hammer to tap it rearward to re-align. You will have to take off the banjo to get to the rear bolt. I have done this bearing upgrade to both my 10k and 9a lathe.
Al |
|
|
|
I believe there are a couple documents in out file section on replacing the fiber washer. I believe this came from there.
From McMaster Carr Part #
Al
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Davis Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 7:28 AM To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k
Also - there are thick and thin versions of the spacer washers. You need to make sure you have the thin ones. McMaster-Carr has pretty good drawings and explanations. The stack for my 9A ended up only slightly thicker than the washer and posed no problem. On 9/27/22 07:10, Rick wrote:
|
|
|
|
Andrei
You may be right, Rick. My machine is a 9A with the fiber washer. Never had a problem with it operating. Maybe I lack exposure of the ones with the needle bearings.
There may be needle bearings with thinner washers that might work without requiring machining the existing parts. Or maybe just skimming the ends of the nut might do the trick without losing too much material and undermining strength and function?
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Rick <vwrick@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 7:10 AM To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k Andrei, I feel that the needle bearing upgrade is worth the effort. The fiber washer was just cheaper for South Bend. All the larger SB lathes have a bearing, not a fiber washer there.
Allan, you are absolutely right that the nut has to stay true to the spindle, but I don’t think it would be that hard to indicate it in before taking a cut on my other lathe. Better yet, use a surface grinder. Mel, hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like only .020” or so would have to be taken off the side of the lever, and only in a small area. The loss of strength would be insignificant, imho. |
|
|
|
If skimming the nut, it doesn't make sense to take material from both ends. The end in contact will be square to the thread, so LEAVE IT ALONE. Reduce thickness by attacking the other end that has no squareness requirement. There is no centralising feature that requires both ends to be reduced. Eddie
|
|
|
|
mike allen
Where did you get the part #'s for the bearing & washers ? I did that mod when I rebuilt my 9A & everything fit's like factory . I got my part #'s from a thread on the Practical Machinist Forum . There used to be a sticky that had the part #'s .
You should ask over there , I know lots of folks have done teh
bearing swap & some may even have their old fiber washer
sitting around . https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/south-bend-lathes.25/
animal
On 9/27/2022 6:43 AM, Andrei wrote:
|
|
|
|
mike allen
Do these dimensions sound right ? "1-3/8x2-1/16x0.032" are $1.57 from McMaster, the matching bearing $4.08, part numbers 5909K39 and 5909K53 respectively." animal On 9/27/2022 6:43 AM, Andrei wrote:
|
|
|
|
Andrei
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/fiber-washer-needle-bearing-replacement.388192/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of mike allen <animal@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 12:56 PM To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k Do these dimensions sound right ? "1-3/8x2-1/16x0.032" are $1.57 from McMaster, the matching bearing $4.08, part numbers 5909K39 and 5909K53 respectively."
animal On 9/27/2022 6:43 AM, Andrei wrote:
|
|
|
|
Rogan Creswick
Thanks for all the input / suggestions! I took some measurements just now, and pulled the bearing / washer stack to measure that as well. I don't have the purchase info any longer, but I believe the McMaster part #'s folks have been throwing around are what I have -- the measurements match, at least: - Washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/5909K53/ - Bearing: https://www.mcmaster.com/5909K39/ The whole stack is ~0.140" as measured with calipers. I need at least 14 thou additional clearance to get the reversing level to sit properly, and to allow the reversing lever pin to sit in the registration holes in the casting. (Probably more like 20 thou, so there is *actually* some air in there and things aren't rubbing.) Does anyone have the dimensions / tolerances for the take-up nut? Maybe mine is oversized (maybe it was replaced at some point? I doubt that, but it's certainly possible.) Thanks! --Rogan On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 10:00 AM Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Rick
Andrei, I don’t know what Halligan was showing, but here is a picture of the SB13 takeup bearing, and the part numbers from the South Bend parts manual.
|
|
|
|
Rick
On Tue, Sep 27, 2022 at 10:27 AM, eddie.draper@... wrote:
If skimming the nut, it doesn't make sense to take material from both ends. The end in contact will be square to the thread, so LEAVE IT ALONE. Reduce thickness by attacking the other end that has no squareness requirement. There is no centralising feature that requires both ends to be reduced.Eddie, you may be correct, but the way I see it, the part does have a centralizing feature, and that is the lock screw that is right in the middle of the take-up nut. |
|
|
|
Mel Gross
I do t like taking anything off a fairly thing CI part. Better to take it off the back of the nut.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mel On Sep 27, 2022, at 7:11 AM, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
mike allen
I think you can get the washers in different thickness's . animal On 9/27/2022 12:59 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
|
|
|