9" Toolroom lathe carriage won't move
mike allen
A bud asked me to come over & look at his lathe a South Bend 9A .
It's one of the fancy ones large dials spindle cover on the headstock & came with a taper attachment . The Numbers on the change gear plate xx8344ZD . Ok so now the the problem , the carriage will only move @ 3/4"- 1" . The hand wheel for moving the apron will turn from @ one-o clock to 12 o clock on , so not even a full revolution .We removed the saddle & the lead screw support thinking we would be able to slide the apron off the lead screw but no go . it will still only move the same 3/4-1" & stop & its a hard stop . So next we removed the taper pin holding the hand wheel on & pushed the pinion shaft into the apron so the pinion gear had no contact with the gear that contacts the rack & still no movement only the 3/4" - 1" . We tried spinning the input gear for the gearbox to try to drive the apron off the leadscrew but the bolt the holds the gears on loosened so that was a dead end . I marked the gear that runs in the rack & in the almost full revolution the handwheel makes the rack gear only moves @ 1/3 of a revolution . Unfortunately the unit is stuck maybe a quarter down the leadscrew from the gearbox. When it stops it's like it's hitting a brick wall , it's a hard stop We were hoping we might be able gently push the right side of the leadscrew down enough to disengage the rack gear from the rack to slide the assembly off , but it's just to close to the gear box & don't want to bend the leadscrew . I've had one of these lathes into as many pieces you can get with out removing the feet & I'm at a loss as to what the problem just might be . We left the required parts reinstalled for the weekend so we could think about this some more . I'm going to borrow a bore scope & see if I can see any more but I'm at a loss on this . Any of you folks have any ideas ? thanks animal |
|
I'm no expert but I think I would tackle it like this. Remove the lathe head. It is held on by two bolts underneath. This will provide access to the top screws holding the gear box on. Remove the screws holding the lead screw support near the tail stock. Remove the gearbox screws. The whole thing should come off assuming you already disconnected the apron.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Before doing the above., remove the carriage top from the apron. It is held on buy the two slotted screws in the top and a flat piece of steel at the back of the bed. With the top removed, you can look into the top of the apron. There are some YouTube videos on this. Al -----Original Message-----
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: Friday, July 15, 2022 10:24 PM To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io Subject: [SouthBendLathe] 9" Toolroom lathe carriage won't move A bud asked me to come over & look at his lathe a South Bend 9A . It's one of the fancy ones large dials spindle cover on the headstock & came with a taper attachment . The Numbers on the change gear plate xx8344ZD . Ok so now the the problem , the carriage will only move @ 3/4"- 1" . The hand wheel for moving the apron will turn from @ one-o clock to 12 o clock on , so not even a full revolution .We removed the saddle & the lead screw support thinking we would be able to slide the apron off the lead screw but no go . it will still only move the same 3/4-1" & stop & its a hard stop . So next we removed the taper pin holding the hand wheel on & pushed the pinion shaft into the apron so the pinion gear had no contact with the gear that contacts the rack & still no movement only the 3/4" - 1" . We tried spinning the input gear for the gearbox to try to drive the apron off the leadscrew but the bolt the holds the gears on loosened so that was a dead end . I marked the gear that runs in the rack & in the almost full revolution the handwheel makes the rack gear only moves @ 1/3 of a revolution . Unfortunately the unit is stuck maybe a quarter down the leadscrew from the gearbox. When it stops it's like it's hitting a brick wall , it's a hard stop We were hoping we might be able gently push the right side of the leadscrew down enough to disengage the rack gear from the rack to slide the assembly off , but it's just to close to the gear box & don't want to bend the leadscrew . I've had one of these lathes into as many pieces you can get with out removing the feet & I'm at a loss as to what the problem just might be . We left the required parts reinstalled for the weekend so we could think about this some more . I'm going to borrow a bore scope & see if I can see any more but I'm at a loss on this . Any of you folks have any ideas ? thanks animal |
|
mike allen
Thanks Al , I was just about to add a revision to my original
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
post . I do have the saddle & apron separated . Unless I can see something fishy when I go back next monday with a bore scope I will pull the headstock & then pull the geabox-leadscrew & apron as a assembly . The guy that owns the lathe is a machinist & out of his 7 lathes he still uses this SB lathe just about every chance he gets he likes it so much . He called ma cause he knows that I have stripped one of these puppies down before . I just wish you could get to the gearbox mounting screws without pulling the headstock . He has owned several SB lathes in the past & he has been kind enough to send unused parts my way . A few years back he sent me home with a brand new maybe used once telescopic steady & follow rest for a 10 K he used to own . I was able to trade them for a follower & steady for my 9A within a few months & last week he sent me home with a brand new set of the metric transposing gears for my lathe . I try to help him any way I can . Will report back hopefully on monday what we discover thanks animal On 7/15/2022 7:42 PM, ww_big_al wrote:
I'm no expert but I think I would tackle it like this. Remove the lathe head. It is held on by two bolts underneath. This will provide access to the top screws holding the gear box on. Remove the screws holding the lead screw support near the tail stock. Remove the gearbox screws. The whole thing should come off assuming you already disconnected the apron. |
|
wlw19958
Hi There,
Boy, that is a head-scratcher. First off, you say this lathe is the one your friend uses most. I take it this problem came up fairly recently? What was he doing last time he was using this lathe (just prior to the advent of its current problem)? I know this is probably NOT the problem but have you check the half-nuts to make sure they aren't somehow causing the problem? If you have removed the saddle and disengaged the pinion gear from the rack, Then the only thing I can think of is the worm gear that slides along the lead screw. Either something has gotten in there or the pin and/or the key is binding on the lead screw. As others have suggested, You next step is to unbolt the QC gearbox and remove the QC gearbox, lead screw and apron as a unit. Once the assembly is out and lying so the back of the apron is exposed, the problem may present itself. As a pure guess, I think it is possible the worm gear has jammed onto the lead screw and the threaded collar that holds the worm gear in the apron casting is loose allowing the apron to have the limited travel thus displayed. Removing he QC gearbox, lead screw and apron will show for sure. Good Luck! -Blue Chips- Webb |
|
William Nelson
I had the same problem after doing some heavy rough turning. After getting lots of light and a inspection mirror up in there I saw a large piece of swarf in the pinion gear. The chip was basically hardened as it was blue from turning and stuck in there tight. I don't remember how I got the saddle apart as like you I couldn't turn it off the lead screw. Can't figure out how the swarf got in there either. Good luck.
-- Bill From Socal |
|
wlw19958
Hi There,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 07:24 PM, mike allen wrote: So next we removed the taper pin holding the hand wheel on &I may have misunderstood your rack gear engagement situation in my earlier post. Try removing the screws that hold the rack gear to the bed. Once the rack gear is free from the bed, you should be able to slide the apron off the lead screw (once the outboard lead screw support is removed) with the rack gear still engaged with the apron. Of course, if you have removed the saddle and the apron is just hanging on the lead screw. You should be able to see the apron gear to rack gear engagement and see if there is any swarf crammed in the gear teeth. Good Luck! -Blue Chips- Webb |
|
mike allen
Yeppers it is a head-scratcher & my hair is gettin
too thin for much head-scratchin
He uses this lathe mostly for brass , but on occasion it has seen some steel . I'm not sure what he was workin on when the problem popped up . Half-nuts are fine . In my head it either is something caught in the worm somewhere , or the rack
gear . I'm leaning more towards something caught in the rack gear
just cause of the way it stops . The biggest stick in our spokes is that we're were trying not to remove the
head-stock , & the only way we can get to the gear-box screws
or the rack screws is removing the head-stock . Once we swallow the fact that we have to pop the head-stock off we'll be doing a autopsy once we have the apron/leadscrew on the bench . thanks animal On 7/16/2022 7:40 AM, wlw19958 wrote:
Hi There, |
|
George Meinschein
Mike,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
How about engaging the gear train and spinning the chuck by hand to rotate the lead screw? Compressed air, a blow gun, and eye protection? I'm thinking a chip got stuck in the lead screw keyway. Thanks, George Meinschein 150 Brittany Drive Freehold, NJ 07728 gmeinschein@... Cell#: 732-580-1736 Sent from Proton Mail mobile -------- Original Message -------- On Jul 16, 2022, 4:54 PM, mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
|
|
mike allen
I have a crank I made for my 9A for turning the spindle
& will have that in my kit bag when i go back over on monday .
Though I hate using compressed air I did blow it out on friday but to no avail . I have a can of carb cleaner with the lil straw & some small fuel line that fits over the straw so I can aim where I want it to go . I just don't want to get any chemicals in the clutch as I don't remember just what the clutch material is . I do have the gearbox set up for the fastest feed so if we do get some movement we get the most bang for our buck if we get any motion . thanks animal On 7/16/2022 3:09 PM, George Meinschein
via groups.io wrote:
Mike, |
|
Bob Kellermann
Put the right side handle of the qcgearbox down so it disengages the gearbox from the lead screw Turn the lead screw by hand it should turn free. If not it could be in drive train/clutch for the apron Bob On Jul 16, 2022, at 6:37 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
|
|
Bob Kellermann
Or the 1/2 nuts On Jul 16, 2022, at 9:51 PM, ROBERT T KELLERMANN <rtjkeller@...> wrote:
|
|
mike allen
Half nuts are clear animal On 7/16/2022 6:52 PM, Bob Kellermann
via groups.io wrote:
|
|
TIMOTHY CRAVEN
Make sure that the taper attachment locking nut isn’t engaged. On my SB 9” lathe, the taper attachment has a locking nut that engages it and also another screw which much be removed whenever I use it. I remember that I once had both the taper engaged and the other screw in also. It locked the carriage up in a similar way you describe.
|
|
mike allen
TA has been removed thanks anmal On 7/17/2022 9:43 PM, TIMOTHY CRAVEN
wrote:
Make sure that the taper attachment locking nut isn’t engaged. On my SB 9” lathe, the taper attachment has a locking nut that engages it and also another screw which much be removed whenever I use it. I remember that I once had both the taper engaged and the other screw in also. It locked the carriage up in a similar way you describe. |
|
Sounds like the worm drive key is riding out of position when the saddle is moved, I had a similar issue with mine after stripping it to install new felts, you can check this with a torchlight and see if it jumps out after moving it, if it jumps out it will allow about an inch of movement until it jams up, the key slides among the leadscrew and is normally trapped in place held with a pin, you may need to strip the saddle to remedy a moving key, change the felt while your at it.
|
|
mike allen
I borrowed a bore scope so I could see in there better , My son is getting married this weekend , so my bud's lathe is on the back burner till next week . thanks animal On 7/21/2022 2:20 AM, Stuart Wilby via
groups.io wrote:
Sounds like the worm drive key is riding out of position when the saddle is moved, I had a similar issue with mine after stripping it to install new felts, you can check this with a torchlight and see if it jumps out after moving it, if it jumps out it will allow about an inch of movement until it jams up. |
|
OK, waiting for the outcome...
Payson. |
|
mike allen
Sorry . I posted over on The Practical Machinist forum but forgot I inquired here . Finally got the head-stock removed & gave my bud instructions on how to remove the gearbos & leadscrew with the apron still stuck on the leadscrew . So he got it on the bench & said it was just totally caked with 50+ years of shavings . That's al it was just a bunch of crap packed in the saddle . Now he understands how these things are made & will
not hesitate to take apart & clean more often than 50
something years . thanks animal On 8/11/2022 11:55 AM, Payson wrote:
OK, waiting for the outcome... |
|