Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?


Rogan Creswick
 

I'm rebuilding a 10k (UMD) and I'm having trouble with the oil cups on the gearbox.

I assumed that they either unscrewed or pulled out, like the other cups I've encountered so far, but the covers broke off when I tried those things, and now I'm left with the broken shafts, and I don't know how to remove them.

They do not *seem* to unscrew, and the edge where they enter the casting looks.... odd.  Almost like they were somehow riveted in (?).

Does anyone have suggestions? I'm assuming worst-case, I can cut them flush with the casting, and press in smaller fill cups, but I'm not sure how likely it is that I can get the appropriate size.

I could drill them out, but I'm not sure I'd be able to get all the chips out.

Thanks!
Rogan



eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

You could try this:


Turn a piece of bar to be a snug fit inside the cups, then use a self grip wrench on the outside to really grip them hard without crushing.


Eddie




------ Original Message ------
From: "Rogan Creswick" <creswick@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, 26 Mar, 22 At 19:49
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?

I'm rebuilding a 10k (UMD) and I'm having trouble with the oil cups on the gearbox.

I assumed that they either unscrewed or pulled out, like the other cups I've encountered so far, but the covers broke off when I tried those things, and now I'm left with the broken shafts, and I don't know how to remove them.

They do not *seem* to unscrew, and the edge where they enter the casting looks.... odd. Almost like they were somehow riveted in (?).

Does anyone have suggestions? I'm assuming worst-case, I can cut them flush with the casting, and press in smaller fill cups, but I'm not sure how likely it is that I can get the appropriate size.

I could drill them out, but I'm not sure I'd be able to get all the chips out.

Thanks!
Rogan



Don Verdiani
 

Screw extractor with grease on it to capture chips? Far as I know, they are push-ins, except for the tumbler gear one.

 

Don

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of eddie.draper@... via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2022 4:16 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?

 

You could try this:

 

Turn a piece of bar to be a snug fit inside the cups, then use a self grip wrench on the outside to really grip them hard without crushing.

 

Eddie





------ Original Message ------
From: "Rogan Creswick" <creswick@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, 26 Mar, 22 At 19:49
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?

I'm rebuilding a 10k (UMD) and I'm having trouble with the oil cups on the gearbox.

 

I assumed that they either unscrewed or pulled out, like the other cups I've encountered so far, but the covers broke off when I tried those things, and now I'm left with the broken shafts, and I don't know how to remove them.

 

They do not *seem* to unscrew, and the edge where they enter the casting looks.... odd. Almost like they were somehow riveted in (?).

 

Does anyone have suggestions? I'm assuming worst-case, I can cut them flush with the casting, and press in smaller fill cups, but I'm not sure how likely it is that I can get the appropriate size.

 

I could drill them out, but I'm not sure I'd be able to get all the chips out.

 

Thanks!

Rogan

 

 


Keith Douglass
 

I just removed a broken gits oil fitting from a South Bend shaper I just purchased.  I used a 1/8” punch on the side of the oiler and angled it up so that it tended to drive the fitting out from the hole.  Once I could see the oiler was shifting out, I was able to grab it with some pliers and remove it the rest of the way.


wlw19958
 

Hi There,

The oilers on the top of the Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB)  are press fit
into the casting.  There are 3 types of Gits oilers that could be used.


The one of the far left is generally the ones found on later gear boxes.  As one cans
see, there is a bead around the middle to limit how far the oiler can be driven in. 
Gits Part No: 00502.

The middle one has the body flared out to form the cup part of the oiler and it forms
a shoulder of sorts to limit insertion.  Gits Part No: 00330


The one on the far right is machined and has a distinct square shoulder. 
Gits Part No: 00302

I use a drywall screw brazed to the end of a bolt.  I then use a hollow steel sleeve
to slide up the bolt to impact against the underside of the bolt head to pull the oiler
out (like a dent puller).



Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


John Dammeyer
 

Brilliant solution.

John

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of wlw19958
Sent: March-26-22 4:25 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?

 

Hi There,

The oilers on the top of the Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB)  are press fit
into the casting.  There are 3 types of Gits oilers that could be used.


The one of the far left is generally the ones found on later gear boxes.  As one cans
see, there is a bead around the middle to limit how far the oiler can be driven in. 
Gits Part No: 00502.

The middle one has the body flared out to form the cup part of the oiler and it forms
a shoulder of sorts to limit insertion.  Gits Part No: 00330


The one on the far right is machined and has a distinct square shoulder. 
Gits Part No: 00302

I use a drywall screw brazed to the end of a bolt.  I then use a hollow steel sleeve
to slide up the bolt to impact against the underside of the bolt head to pull the oiler
out (like a dent puller).



Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Nelson Collar
 

John 
I sure like the way you think.
Nelson Collar

On Saturday, March 26, 2022, 07:34:49 PM EDT, John Dammeyer <johnd@...> wrote:






Brilliant solution.
John
 
 
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of wlw19958Sent: March-26-22 4:25 PMTo: SouthBendLathe@...: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?
 
Hi There,

The oilers on the top of the Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB)  are press fit
into the casting.  There are 3 types of Gits oilers that could be used.


The one of the far left is generally the ones found on later gear boxes.  As one cans
see, there is a bead around the middle to limit how far the oiler can be driven in. 
Gits Part No: 00502.

The middle one has the body flared out to form the cup part of the oiler and it forms
a shoulder of sorts to limit insertion.  Gits Part No: 00330


The one on the far right is machined and has a distinct square shoulder. 
Gits Part No: 00302

I use a drywall screw brazed to the end of a bolt.  I then use a hollow steel sleeve
to slide up the bolt to impact against the underside of the bolt head to pull the oiler
out (like a dent puller).



Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Rogan Creswick
 

Thank you all for the suggestions! The drywall screw with a slide-hammer looks like a great place to start.

Knowing how things go over here, I'll be able to try it out in about a week :D.

On Sat, Mar 26, 2022 at 5:48 PM Nelson Collar via groups.io <nel2lar=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
John 
I sure like the way you think.
Nelson Collar







On Saturday, March 26, 2022, 07:34:49 PM EDT, John Dammeyer <johnd@...> wrote:






Brilliant solution.
John
 
 
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of wlw19958Sent: March-26-22 4:25 PMTo: SouthBendLathe@...: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Removing / replacing the oil cups on a 10K gearbox?
 
Hi There,

The oilers on the top of the Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB)  are press fit
into the casting.  There are 3 types of Gits oilers that could be used.


The one of the far left is generally the ones found on later gear boxes.  As one cans
see, there is a bead around the middle to limit how far the oiler can be driven in. 
Gits Part No: 00502.

The middle one has the body flared out to form the cup part of the oiler and it forms
a shoulder of sorts to limit insertion.  Gits Part No: 00330


The one on the far right is machined and has a distinct square shoulder. 
Gits Part No: 00302

I use a drywall screw brazed to the end of a bolt.  I then use a hollow steel sleeve
to slide up the bolt to impact against the underside of the bolt head to pull the oiler
out (like a dent puller).



Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb









Payson
 

Do you tap on the head of the screw to drive out the sleeve?

Payson.


Rogan Creswick
 

I finally got around to this, and using an appropriately-sized wood screw worked great!  I didn't want to make up a slide hammer, but I happen to have a nail-puller plier that worked quite well (A slide hammer is one of the first lathe projects, once I get this back together, though!).

Thanks again for the help.

On Mon, Mar 28, 2022 at 9:37 AM Payson <egreene104@...> wrote:
Do you tap on the head of the screw to drive out the sleeve?

Payson.