14 1/2" tailstock taper


Jeremy Summers
 

I have a 14 1/2" x 6 lathe that I had listed here for sale a time back.  I decided to go ahead and finish getting it wired up and put it to use and I need a drill chuck for it.  I could have sworn it came with a Jacob's chuck but I can't find it so perhaps I never received it.  I know the spindle uses a custom taper, but what taper does the tailstock use?  Is it MT2 or does it match the spindle?


George Meinschein
 

MT3.  Should be a match with your spindle.

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.

Meinschein Engineering Consultants, LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728-1500
Direct Dial: 732-409-0778
Cell: 732-580-1736
Fax: 732-358-0369
www.meinscheinengineering.com
On 2/12/2020 1:06 PM, Jeremy Summers wrote:

I have a 14 1/2" x 6 lathe that I had listed here for sale a time back.  I decided to go ahead and finish getting it wired up and put it to use and I need a drill chuck for it.  I could have sworn it came with a Jacob's chuck but I can't find it so perhaps I never received it.  I know the spindle uses a custom taper, but what taper does the tailstock use?  Is it MT2 or does it match the spindle?


eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

Golden Valley Light Railway's 14.5" x 6' toolroom SB WW2 era has a MT3 tailstock.

Eddie

On Wednesday, 12 February 2020, 19:09:30 GMT, George Meinschein <bustedguns@...> wrote:


MT3.  Should be a match with your spindle.

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.

Meinschein Engineering Consultants, LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728-1500
Direct Dial: 732-409-0778
Cell: 732-580-1736
Fax: 732-358-0369
www.meinscheinengineering.com
On 2/12/2020 1:06 PM, Jeremy Summers wrote:
I have a 14 1/2" x 6 lathe that I had listed here for sale a time back.  I decided to go ahead and finish getting it wired up and put it to use and I need a drill chuck for it.  I could have sworn it came with a Jacob's chuck but I can't find it so perhaps I never received it.  I know the spindle uses a custom taper, but what taper does the tailstock use?  Is it MT2 or does it match the spindle?


Dave Eggebraaten (AF5IA)
 

I have a 14 1/2 lathe and the tail stock is a MT3.  The spindle is larger (about a MT 4ish).  It wasn't a standard MT.  Mine has a L00 spindle mount. Use an MT3/Jacobs size for whatever drill chuck you like.

On 2/12/2020 12:06 PM, Jeremy Summers wrote:
I have a 14 1/2" x 6 lathe that I had listed here for sale a time back.  I decided to go ahead and finish getting it wired up and put it to use and I need a drill chuck for it.  I could have sworn it came with a Jacob's chuck but I can't find it so perhaps I never received it.  I know the spindle uses a custom taper, but what taper does the tailstock use?  Is it MT2 or does it match the spindle?


wlw19958
 

Hi There,

The spindle taper is .602 t.p.f. (taper per foot) which is
the same t.p.f. as Morse Taper #3 but the diameter is
different.  The diameter depends on which 14.5" model
you have. 

If yours has the 2-1/4 x 6 tpi, threaded spindle,  The major
inside diameter should be 1.325".  If yours have 2-3/8 x 6 tpi,
then the major diameter should be 1.629"

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Jeremy Summers
 

Thanks everyone for the info.  Now off to purchase a chuck after which I'm sure to find the one I thought I already had.
Jeremy


Jeremy Summers
 

So now I'm shopping for an economical drill chuck.   Does anyone have a suggestion for a MT3 chuck up to 1/2"?

Anyone had experience with this Vertex keyless  chuck or can I find a better value elsewhere?  It has pretty good reviews.

I'm just using this for some hobby work and don't need to invest a ton of money, but I don't want junk.


Harry Ruble
 

I have a vertex keyless chuck but with a r8 taper, I think I have the 1/8 to 5/8 version. It's a great chuck. I suppose it might not be albrecht worthy but it is fine for my needs. I also have a vertex boring head and really like that as well. Vertex tools are pretty good for import stuff from what I have seen.

Harry


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Jeremy Summers <jeremy@...>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 5:30 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 14 1/2" tailstock taper
 
So now I'm shopping for an economical drill chuck.   Does anyone have a suggestion for a MT3 chuck up to 1/2"?

Anyone had experience with this Vertex keyless  chuck or can I find a better value elsewhere?  It has pretty good reviews.

I'm just using this for some hobby work and don't need to invest a ton of money, but I don't want junk.


Dave Eggebraaten (AF5IA)
 

Get one capable of 5/8".  You won't be sorry.

On 2/17/2020 5:30 AM, Jeremy Summers wrote:
So now I'm shopping for an economical drill chuck.   Does anyone have a suggestion for a MT3 chuck up to 1/2"?

Anyone had experience with this Vertex keyless  chuck or can I find a better value elsewhere?  It has pretty good reviews.

I'm just using this for some hobby work and don't need to invest a ton of money, but I don't want junk.


Jeremy Summers
 

Thanks for the feedback on Vertex as well as the 5/8 recommendation.  I was already on the fence on that and will heed your advice.


rlm_mcv
 

A keyless chuck for me works better on a rotating spindle than on a tail stock.  Extra money for a less that useful feature on a tail stock is how I see it.  I do not have Vertex brand,

On Monday, February 17, 2020, 8:15:52 AM CST, Jeremy Summers <jeremy@...> wrote:


Thanks for the feedback on Vertex as well as the 5/8 recommendation.  I was already on the fence on that and will heed your advice.


Steven H
 

When I use a keyless chuck in my lathe tailstock to hold a tap when power tapping, the chuck opens up when I reverse the lathe spindle. I don't seem to have that problem on my mill. Perhaps because the chuck I am using on my mill is an Albrecht brand and the chuck used on the lathe is an cheaper import. The other thing I don't particularly care for with a keyless chuck is that I find if a drill bit starts to slip when drilling a hole, a keyless chuck will grip even tighter which tends to tear up the drill shank. I have also had this happen more than once to the point the chuck tightened so tight I could not open the chuck by hand and had to resort to using channel lock pliers to loosen the chuck. I cringe every time I have to do that to my $400 Albrecht keyless chuck. But with a keyless chuck you don't have the problem of loosing the chuck key.


Jim_B
 

Let me start by saying ; “I hate keyless Chucks”

You are free to disagree. 

Two reasons:
1) They stick out of the spindle way too far. 
2) They do not grip the drill as well as a keyed chuck. 

You will spend much more money on drills in your lifetime than on the chuck. The drill does the cutting. The chuck does the holding. 
It needs to grip the drill so it does NOT slip and so it's true with the work. 

I have several sets of drills. they are all Cobalt. if it slips in the chuck and develops a bur, its no longer true.  Yes you can file the burr off but you may also take 0.001 or 0.002” of drill with it.  If you need the hole to be exact thats not how to do it. 
I mostly use screw machine or stub drills because they are shorter and have less tendency to wander. 
I don't need the drill sticking out another Inch or so from the tailstock.

If accuracy is important, get a keyed Jacobs chuck. I have been using a #34. Its 1/2” 
Yes a 9/16 0r 5/8 might be useful BUT don't forget the bigger the chuck opens, the larger the minimum size drill you can use in it. 

Yes I also have two smaller chucks mounted on MT-3’s, so I can get down to #80 drills, once in a while. 




On Feb 17, 2020, at 6:30 AM, Jeremy Summers <jeremy@...> wrote:

So now I'm shopping for an economical drill chuck.   Does anyone have a suggestion for a MT3 chuck up to 1/2"?

Anyone had experience with this Vertex keyless  chuck or can I find a better value elsewhere?  It has pretty good reviews.

I'm just using this for some hobby work and don't need to invest a ton of money, but I don't want junk.

Jim B.





--
Jim B


Andrei
 

Chuck keys cost less than 10 bucks new, probably pennies when used. I have a box full of them (about 10-15) i got at an auction for 8 bucks. All my chucks are Jacobs. I have always wanted a keyless one but never made the jump, being discouraged by the price

Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:11:03 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 14 1/2" tailstock taper
 
When I use a keyless chuck in my lathe tailstock to hold a tap when power tapping, the chuck opens up when I reverse the lathe spindle. I don't seem to have that problem on my mill. Perhaps because the chuck I am using on my mill is an Albrecht brand and the chuck used on the lathe is an cheaper import. The other thing I don't particularly care for with a keyless chuck is that I find if a drill bit starts to slip when drilling a hole, a keyless chuck will grip even tighter which tends to tear up the drill shank. I have also had this happen more than once to the point the chuck tightened so tight I could not open the chuck by hand and had to resort to using channel lock pliers to loosen the chuck. I cringe every time I have to do that to my $400 Albrecht keyless chuck. But with a keyless chuck you don't have the problem of loosing the chuck key.


comstock_friend
 

+1 for the 5/8" (or bigger!) chuck recommendation. My 13" has a Jacobs Super Chuck 18N (1/8" to 3/4") on the tail stock's MT3. Of course you'll need something for the under 1/8" but it hasn't been a problem...

John


mike allen
 

        if ya buy a import key less chuck they all come with a extra unwanted option  " run  out "

        animal

On 2/17/2020 9:35 AM, Andrei wrote:
Chuck keys cost less than 10 bucks new, probably pennies when used. I have a box full of them (about 10-15) i got at an auction for 8 bucks. All my chucks are Jacobs. I have always wanted a keyless one but never made the jump, being discouraged by the price

Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:11:03 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 14 1/2" tailstock taper
 
When I use a keyless chuck in my lathe tailstock to hold a tap when power tapping, the chuck opens up when I reverse the lathe spindle. I don't seem to have that problem on my mill. Perhaps because the chuck I am using on my mill is an Albrecht brand and the chuck used on the lathe is an cheaper import. The other thing I don't particularly care for with a keyless chuck is that I find if a drill bit starts to slip when drilling a hole, a keyless chuck will grip even tighter which tends to tear up the drill shank. I have also had this happen more than once to the point the chuck tightened so tight I could not open the chuck by hand and had to resort to using channel lock pliers to loosen the chuck. I cringe every time I have to do that to my $400 Albrecht keyless chuck. But with a keyless chuck you don't have the problem of loosing the chuck key.


eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

Nobody's mentioned it yet, so I will:  Morse Taper drills are generally better and easier to use than a drill chuck.  Most of ours are cast offs, car boot sale stuff etc. 

Sits back and awaits fireworks...

We got dead lucky a while back.  Bloke entered the shed at the railway and said they'd got a new boss at work.  "What are we doing with all this Imperial tooling?  We only work in metric nowadays."  So we got given about 50 MT4 and 3 MT5 drills (which, fortunately we can use).  Prices new upwards of £200 apiece.  Of course, you can't put a metric bolt through a hole you made with an Imperial drill, can you??

Please don't knock all imports (except maybe British cars from the 60s & 70s).  Many years ago I bought a new Polish chuck for my Myford.  I haven't been able to measure the inaccuracy.  At least as good as collets.  Quite happy to turn an end and reverse it in the chuck and turn the other end, or keep taking it out and trying it for size and putting it back for another thou off, which is something I would do on no other 3 jaw chuck.

Eddie

On Monday, 17 February 2020, 19:32:19 GMT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:


        if ya buy a import key less chuck they all come with a extra unwanted option  " run  out "

        animal

On 2/17/2020 9:35 AM, Andrei wrote:
Chuck keys cost less than 10 bucks new, probably pennies when used. I have a box full of them (about 10-15) i got at an auction for 8 bucks. All my chucks are Jacobs. I have always wanted a keyless one but never made the jump, being discouraged by the price

Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2020 12:11:03 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 14 1/2" tailstock taper
 
When I use a keyless chuck in my lathe tailstock to hold a tap when power tapping, the chuck opens up when I reverse the lathe spindle. I don't seem to have that problem on my mill. Perhaps because the chuck I am using on my mill is an Albrecht brand and the chuck used on the lathe is an cheaper import. The other thing I don't particularly care for with a keyless chuck is that I find if a drill bit starts to slip when drilling a hole, a keyless chuck will grip even tighter which tends to tear up the drill shank. I have also had this happen more than once to the point the chuck tightened so tight I could not open the chuck by hand and had to resort to using channel lock pliers to loosen the chuck. I cringe every time I have to do that to my $400 Albrecht keyless chuck. But with a keyless chuck you don't have the problem of loosing the chuck key.


glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...>
 

My experience is keyless chucks are convenient but do not grip drill bits very well.  Any bit over 3/8” or 1/2” is at risk of spinning in a keylesschuck.  Keyed chucks are a bit of a nuisance to work with, but are much more reliable.  Once your bit spins in a Chuck, it’s shank is pretty much ruined for concentric work.



On Feb 17, 2020, at 1:31 AM, Jeremy Summers <jeremy@...> wrote:


So now I'm shopping for an economical drill chuck.   Does anyone have a suggestion for a MT3 chuck up to 1/2"?

Anyone had experience with this Vertex keyless  chuck or can I find a better value elsewhere?  It has pretty good reviews.

I'm just using this for some hobby work and don't need to invest a ton of money, but I don't want junk.


Guenther Paul
 

I agree Glenn 
Key less chucks are ok for hand held drills 

GP


On Monday, February 17, 2020, 5:22:08 PM EST, glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...> wrote:


My experience is keyless chucks are convenient but do not grip drill bits very well.  Any bit over 3/8” or 1/2” is at risk of spinning in a keylesschuck.  Keyed chucks are a bit of a nuisance to work with, but are much more reliable.  Once your bit spins in a Chuck, it’s shank is pretty much ruined for concentric work.



On Feb 17, 2020, at 1:31 AM, Jeremy Summers <jeremy@...> wrote:


So now I'm shopping for an economical drill chuck.   Does anyone have a suggestion for a MT3 chuck up to 1/2"?

Anyone had experience with this Vertex keyless  chuck or can I find a better value elsewhere?  It has pretty good reviews.

I'm just using this for some hobby work and don't need to invest a ton of money, but I don't want junk.


dwshelf
 

If you use both small and large drills in your tailstock, you need two chucks.  Chucks, particularly small ones, are not that expensive, and they are trivially easy to swap out of the tailstock. 

When you have two, you don't need to compromise the large one to accommodate small drills.