Topics

Attaching A Face Plate

Stephen Bartlett
 

Closing out this subject, the face plate fits. It was just snugging up on the spindle for the last 3/16 inch of travel.

Thanks again,

Steve Bartlett

Stephen Bartlett
 

Thank you to everyone for the replies.

One thing I had not thought of is that the unthreaded back of the face plate hub may be smaller diameter than the register on the spindle (and I learned a new name for a spindle part).

Another is that the face plate may not be made by South Bend and even then may not have been made for my lathe. I seem to think that I did not buy it with my lathe.

My lathe Unit Code No. B 100 NK
Serial No A 9775NCR10

The face plate bears the number B 100 N. This is different from the face plate numbers in my South Bend Catalog.

First priority is some measuring.

Steve Bartlett

eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

How's about measuring the register bore in the plate, o/d of the mandrel and the length of same on both before starting to hack metal off blindly?

Eddie



From: "Guenther Paul paulguenter@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
To: "SOUTHBENDLATHE@..."
Sent: Thursday, 7 December 2017, 19:24
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Attaching A Face Plate

 
Yes use a 4 jaw indicate the bore and create more relief so the plate goes on all the way. you can test it by removing the 4 jaw with the plate still in it.After you get the plate to go on all the way remove it from the chuck face the plate and true cut the OD of the plate. I would not play around on a mill 
 
GP



From: "Nelson Collar nel2lar@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
To: "kernbigo@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2017 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Attaching A Face Plate

 
If the metal is cut away on the mill you will have a better chance to true it up by mounting the face of the face plate and it can be cut accurately and measured. If done on the lathe there is always a chance it is not on straight. After cutting use bluing to check for high spots and hand scrape them until parallel. I have tried to adjust an old chuck mounting plate just to make it worse.   
Nelson

On Thursday, December 7, 2017, 9:40:36 AM EST, kernbigo@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:


 
why use a mill put the face plate on back wards bore out a few threads, reverse it and if it goes on all the way , now face cut it and it should work fine 




Guenther Paul
 

Yes use a 4 jaw indicate the bore and create more relief so the plate goes on all the way. you can test it by removing the 4 jaw with the plate still in it.After you get the plate to go on all the way remove it from the chuck face the plate and true cut the OD of the plate. I would not play around on a mill 
 
GP



From: "Nelson Collar nel2lar@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
To: "kernbigo@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2017 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Attaching A Face Plate

 
If the metal is cut away on the mill you will have a better chance to true it up by mounting the face of the face plate and it can be cut accurately and measured. If done on the lathe there is always a chance it is not on straight. After cutting use bluing to check for high spots and hand scrape them until parallel. I have tried to adjust an old chuck mounting plate just to make it worse.   
Nelson

On Thursday, December 7, 2017, 9:40:36 AM EST, kernbigo@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:


 
why use a mill put the face plate on back wards bore out a few threads, reverse it and if it goes on all the way , now face cut it and it should work fine 


Nelson Collar
 

If the metal is cut away on the mill you will have a better chance to true it up by mounting the face of the face plate and it can be cut accurately and measured. If done on the lathe there is always a chance it is not on straight. After cutting use bluing to check for high spots and hand scrape them until parallel. I have tried to adjust an old chuck mounting plate just to make it worse.   
Nelson

On Thursday, December 7, 2017, 9:40:36 AM EST, kernbigo@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:


 

why use a mill put the face plate on back wards bore out a few threads, reverse it and if it goes on all the way , now face cut it and it should work fine 

Jim_B
 

But it could be tight on the registration bore. 
Need to see what is tight first. 

-8
Jim B,

On Dec 7, 2017, at 9:40 AM, kernbigo@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

why use a mill put the face plate on back wards bore out a few threads, reverse it and if it goes on all the way , now face cut it and it should work fine 

oscar kern
 

why use a mill put the face plate on back wards bore out a few threads, reverse it and if it goes on all the way , now face cut it and it should work fine 

Jim_B
 

There are two or three lines of thought here. 
One says butting against the step is what aligns the faceplate/Chuck. Another says it’s the unthreaded section on the spindle just before the step. But for this you need a tight fit on the registration diameter. 
If you do not but up to the step, even if the plate runs true, you take the chance that the plate will move      or even get stuck. 
If you use a ring it should have parallel faces. 
Better to find out what is tight. 
Try using Prussian Blue to sort out what is tight. 


-8
Jim B,

On Dec 6, 2017, at 10:04 PM, Stephen Bartlett tower.op@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

I am looking at a boring job using the face plate that came with my 9C.
I have not had occasion to use this face plate before.

When I screw the plate onto the spindle, it runs out of thread leaving
about 1/8 inch gap between the back of the face plate hub and the step
face of the spindle, so only the threads are stopping the screwing of
the face plate on the spindle.

Would it be advisable to have a shim between the face plate hub and the
spindle face so that the face plate will be seated before it runs out of
thread?

I am uncomfortable with the idea of having the end of threads stop the
motion of the face plate.

Thanks,

Steve Bartlett

Nelson Collar
 

Stephen
If you have a mill, place the face plate, face side down on the bed and use indicators to dial it in then use a boring head to remove the threads that are restricting the seat. This will make the short step so the face plate would register on the spindle. The thread will not set a face plate true it must tighten to the register which make it align. After doing that you might need to take a fine pass over the face on the lathe to true it up.
Good Luck
Nelson  

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017, 10:04:05 PM EST, Stephen Bartlett tower.op@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:


 

I am looking at a boring job using the face plate that came with my 9C.
I have not had occasion to use this face plate before.

When I screw the plate onto the spindle, it runs out of thread leaving
about 1/8 inch gap between the back of the face plate hub and the step
face of the spindle, so only the threads are stopping the screwing of
the face plate on the spindle.

Would it be advisable to have a shim between the face plate hub and the
spindle face so that the face plate will be seated before it runs out of
thread?

I am uncomfortable with the idea of having the end of threads stop the
motion of the face plate.

Thanks,

Steve Bartlett

ww_big_al
 

I think I would  place the shim in as you suggested. Even better would be to install an oversize shim and use a boring bar to increase the depth of your thread. Doing that would allow the plate to rest directly on the spindle stop.

Al

 

From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@... [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 6, 2017 10:04 PM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Attaching A Face Plate

 

 

I am looking at a boring job using the face plate that came with my 9C.
I have not had occasion to use this face plate before.

When I screw the plate onto the spindle, it runs out of thread leaving
about 1/8 inch gap between the back of the face plate hub and the step
face of the spindle, so only the threads are stopping the screwing of
the face plate on the spindle.

Would it be advisable to have a shim between the face plate hub and the
spindle face so that the face plate will be seated before it runs out of
thread?

I am uncomfortable with the idea of having the end of threads stop the
motion of the face plate.

Thanks,

Steve Bartlett

Stephen Bartlett
 

I am looking at a boring job using the face plate that came with my 9C. I have not had occasion to use this face plate before.

When I screw the plate onto the spindle, it runs out of thread leaving about 1/8 inch gap between the back of the face plate hub and the step face of the spindle, so only the threads are stopping the screwing of the face plate on the spindle.

Would it be advisable to have a shim between the face plate hub and the spindle face so that the face plate will be seated before it runs out of thread?

I am uncomfortable with the idea of having the end of threads stop the motion of the face plate.

Thanks,

Steve Bartlett