Topics

Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt


chris_c_willis <williscebay@...>
 

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.


Thomas G Brandl
 

Chris,
I think first you need to determine where the movement in the live
center/tail stock is. If its between the live center and the quill, then
yes you will need to ream it. Also, check between the quill and the
tailstock housing. I wouldn't use a chuck to align the reamer. Or if you
do, turn the taper/angle on a piece of steel rod and don't remove it from
the chuck. If you have collets, then that will hold a piece of round stock
to be turned also. Or hold a center with a straight body. Then you can
check the alignment by eye. I would roughly align by eye, then use a test
bar and a dial indicator. Both from the side and from the top. You can also
use about a 12 inch piece of round stock and turn it between centers to see
the taper. Then adjust the tailstock to take out the taper. Only after you
have aligned the tailstock to the lathe would I ream it.
Tom


|---------+---------------------------->
| | chris_c_willis |
| | <williscebay@hotm|
| | ail.com> |
| | |
| | 12/20/2004 01:29 |
| | PM |
| | Please respond to|
| | southbendlathe |
| | |
|---------+---------------------------->
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| |
| To: southbendlathe@... |
| cc: |
| Subject: [southbendlathe] Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited |
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|






I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.






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Dave Mucha
 

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have
a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.

The rotating center (slang is live-center) is absolutly fixed on
axis. As far as the work goes, it would not see any difference
between a solid and rotation center.

The ball bearings are not there to allow for any mis-alignment.

You really need to get the tailstock aligned properly.

As for the hand reamer, it should work.

A #2, MT finishing reamer would cost about $30.00 from a supplier. I
had bought one a few years ago and offered to pass it around the
7x10minilathe group, but it got lost and never made it home.

I too would like to use one to clean up a tailstock.

Depending on the part, I might make a holder-wrench for the tailstock
sleeve, chuck the reamer in the 3-jaw and slide the sleeve over the
reamer. Then use the carriage to put some feed pressure on it and
rotate the spindle by hand.

Dave


JohnW <John.Walker@...>
 

Chris

Mount your dial indicator on a faceplate or chuck. If you have a
good MT arbor mount it in the tailstock and take readings on it as
you rotate the headstock chuck by hand. Adjust the tailstock with
shims and the adjusting screws to get a consistent reading at the top
and both sides of the arbor. This will get the arbor end of the
quill lined up but won't garantee that the quill itself is
horizontal. Fully extend the quill and with the test dial mounted on
the xslide check the top of thw quill along its length and shim as
necessary. You might have to repeat the operation a few times to get
everything lined up.

You should be able to hand feed the reamer. Unless the socket is in
really poor shape the reamer will line its self up. You should be
only taking a skim cut anyway.


Good luck.

John

--- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis"
<williscebay@h...> wrote:

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my
(Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the
tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly.
I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close
to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and
doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor
(yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised,
I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco
sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock
and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have
a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.


kc1fp
 

Hi Chris,

Now is the time to get old fashioned. Use the reamer with a hand
wrench, like a tee handle tap wrench to clean out any burrs or high
spots. Use a known good #2MT something and some markym dye to find how
you are progressing. It is too easy to cut too much with a machine
feed, do it by hand and take your time.

You can align the headstock to the tail stock when you are done. Chuck
up a piece of round stock and machine a point on the end and leave it
in the chuck. Then align the tailstock to it with a center in the
tailstock. I am assuming that the lathe has been checked for level
before this alignment procedure is done.

JP

--- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis"
<williscebay@h...> wrote:

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.


REBEL <bill_collins14@...>
 

I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer will
clean up the MT bore.

GB
Bill C.


Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "REBEL" <bill_collins14@y...>
wrote:

I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer
will
clean up the MT bore.

GB
Bill C.
When I did my drill press, the internal burrs were pretty hard.

I found that taking one good cut was enough and that there was no
noticable increase in how deep the other tooling went.

Dave