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Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt
chris_c_willis <williscebay@...>
I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy 10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock. I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet) so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock to see how far off they are. Now for my question: Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe someone has some better advice. By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.
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Thomas G Brandl
Chris,
I think first you need to determine where the movement in the live center/tail stock is. If its between the live center and the quill, then yes you will need to ream it. Also, check between the quill and the tailstock housing. I wouldn't use a chuck to align the reamer. Or if you do, turn the taper/angle on a piece of steel rod and don't remove it from the chuck. If you have collets, then that will hold a piece of round stock to be turned also. Or hold a center with a straight body. Then you can check the alignment by eye. I would roughly align by eye, then use a test bar and a dial indicator. Both from the side and from the top. You can also use about a 12 inch piece of round stock and turn it between centers to see the taper. Then adjust the tailstock to take out the taper. Only after you have aligned the tailstock to the lathe would I ream it. Tom |---------+----------------------------> | | chris_c_willis | | | <williscebay@hotm| | | ail.com> | | | | | | 12/20/2004 01:29 | | | PM | | | Please respond to| | | southbendlathe | | | | |---------+----------------------------> >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | | | To: southbendlathe@... | | cc: | | Subject: [southbendlathe] Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited | >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy 10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock. I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet) so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock to see how far off they are. Now for my question: Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe someone has some better advice. By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer. -- Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/ More pix: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Newbie guide: http://smaa.techwood.net/SBL/Newbie.pdf FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/SouthBendLatheFAQ.html Post: mailto:southbendlathe@... Email Moderators: mailto:southbendlathe-owner@... * * * * * Manage your subscription by sending a blank message as follows: Unsubscribe: southbendlathe-unsubscribe@... Stop delivery: southbendlathe-nomail@... Daily digest mode: southbendlathe-digest@... Individual emails: southbendlathe-normal@... Yahoo! Groups Links ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ _____________ This e-mail transmission and any attachments to it are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed and may contain confidential and privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, your use, forwarding, printing, storing, disseminating, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to this message and delete it from your computer.
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Dave Mucha
By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in thea perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer. The rotating center (slang is live-center) is absolutly fixed on axis. As far as the work goes, it would not see any difference between a solid and rotation center. The ball bearings are not there to allow for any mis-alignment. You really need to get the tailstock aligned properly. As for the hand reamer, it should work. A #2, MT finishing reamer would cost about $30.00 from a supplier. I had bought one a few years ago and offered to pass it around the 7x10minilathe group, but it got lost and never made it home. I too would like to use one to clean up a tailstock. Depending on the part, I might make a holder-wrench for the tailstock sleeve, chuck the reamer in the 3-jaw and slide the sleeve over the reamer. Then use the carriage to put some feed pressure on it and rotate the spindle by hand. Dave
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JohnW <John.Walker@...>
Chris
Mount your dial indicator on a faceplate or chuck. If you have a good MT arbor mount it in the tailstock and take readings on it as you rotate the headstock chuck by hand. Adjust the tailstock with shims and the adjusting screws to get a consistent reading at the top and both sides of the arbor. This will get the arbor end of the quill lined up but won't garantee that the quill itself is horizontal. Fully extend the quill and with the test dial mounted on the xslide check the top of thw quill along its length and shim as necessary. You might have to repeat the operation a few times to get everything lined up. You should be able to hand feed the reamer. Unless the socket is in really poor shape the reamer will line its self up. You should be only taking a skim cut anyway. Good luck. John --- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis" <williscebay@h...> wrote: (Heavy 10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed thetailstock. I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly.I assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed closeto the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, anddoesn't match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor(yet) so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstockI need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Encosells a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstockand spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybea perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.
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kc1fp
Hi Chris,
Now is the time to get old fashioned. Use the reamer with a hand wrench, like a tee handle tap wrench to clean out any burrs or high spots. Use a known good #2MT something and some markym dye to find how you are progressing. It is too easy to cut too much with a machine feed, do it by hand and take your time. You can align the headstock to the tail stock when you are done. Chuck up a piece of round stock and machine a point on the end and leave it in the chuck. Then align the tailstock to it with a center in the tailstock. I am assuming that the lathe has been checked for level before this alignment procedure is done. JP --- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis" <williscebay@h...> wrote:
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REBEL <bill_collins14@...>
I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer will
clean up the MT bore. GB Bill C.
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Dave Mucha
--- In southbendlathe@..., "REBEL" <bill_collins14@y...>
wrote: will clean up the MT bore.When I did my drill press, the internal burrs were pretty hard. I found that taking one good cut was enough and that there was no noticable increase in how deep the other tooling went. Dave
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