Topics

Tailstock taper question


walpick55
 

I am a complete novice to lathes and metal turning but have been
reading up before I start.

I have a Jacobs chuck which fits my SB lathe headstock quite snug.
But when I put it into the tailstock it shoulders before the taper
interferes. This means that the whole chuck would turn if I tried
drilling with it.

Does this mean that the internal taper is worn and if so what does
one do about it?

Skimming 2mm off the end of the tail stock would give extra clearance
and would no doubt make it function but this would remove some of the
vernier markings.

Am I missing something obvious that seasoned opertators take for
granted as common knowledge?


mikemaddefordca <mike.maddeford@...>
 

Well I'm no expert either but with my setup I too notice that it
didn't seem to fit just right. But all you need to do is run the
tailstock out a bit and it's OK. Then to remove the taper crank it
back in and the taper pops out.

If this is not the way it's done I'm sure someone will tell us :)

Mike


gunsafeammo
 

I had the same problem and just cranked the adjuster out about an
inch and it seated just fine


David Young <davey@...>
 

Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill
chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit
the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't bottom
out in the tailstock.

Dave


David Young <davey@...>
 

Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill
chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit
the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't bottom
out in the tailstock.

Dave


gorvil
 

The headstock is a shortened MT3 taper. The tailstock is an MT2
taper. If the taper on the chuck fits the headstock, it shouldn't
fit the tailstock.

I am assuming we're talking about a 9 inch or 10K, if not, the tapers
will be different, but I think they will still have a different taper
on the headstock than the tailstock.

Glen Reeser


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "walpick55" <walpick@p...>
wrote:
I am a complete novice to lathes and metal turning but have been
reading up before I start.

I have a Jacobs chuck which fits my SB lathe headstock quite snug.
But when I put it into the tailstock it shoulders before the taper
interferes. This means that the whole chuck would turn if I tried
drilling with it.

Does this mean that the internal taper is worn and if so what does
one do about it?

Skimming 2mm off the end of the tail stock would give extra
clearance
and would no doubt make it function but this would remove some of
the
vernier markings.

Am I missing something obvious that seasoned opertators take for
granted as common knowledge?


kc1fp
 

No, each morse taper is different. They vary from .598"/ft to .625"/ft
The #2 and #3 are close but you need a friction fit for the entire
length for it to operate properly.

JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "David Young" <davey@m...>
wrote:
Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill
chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit
the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't bottom
out in the tailstock.

Dave


Rita Kinard & Duane McGuire <eesi@...>
 

Point taken.  #9 SB should take a #2 morse in tailstock.
Duane

----- Original Message -----
From: kc1fp
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 4:45 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Tailstock taper question

No, each morse taper is different. They vary from .598"/ft to .625"/ft
The #2 and #3 are close but you need a friction fit for the entire
length for it to operate properly.

JP

--- In southbendlathe@..., "David Young" <davey@m...>
wrote:
> Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill
> chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit
> the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't bottom
> out in the tailstock. 
>
> Dave



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k3vyl
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "walpick55" <walpick@p...>
wrote:

Before cutting or reaming or defacing any part of the lathe,you
should identify each of the tapers that you are dealing with.Get a
chart from the literature and use a micrometer to measure the male
taper.The inside tapers are morse on South Bend lathes,but the
headstock tapers are abbreviated.Are you using a sleeve in the
headstock when you fit that chuck arbor in there.That sleeve could be
for a jarno taper.Jarno tapers look like morse tapers,but they dont
fit.A micrometer will tell you.If you can find other tapered arbors
that are marked you can use them to id the spindle tapers.Look in how
to run a lathe to determine the taper sizes for your lathe.Then
varify them by measurement or with a known arbor. RC
I am a complete novice to lathes and metal turning but have been
reading up before I start.

I have a Jacobs chuck which fits my SB lathe headstock quite snug.
But when I put it into the tailstock it shoulders before the taper
interferes. This means that the whole chuck would turn if I tried
drilling with it.

Does this mean that the internal taper is worn and if so what does
one do about it?

Skimming 2mm off the end of the tail stock would give extra
clearance
and would no doubt make it function but this would remove some of
the
vernier markings.

Am I missing something obvious that seasoned opertators take for
granted as common knowledge?


walpick55
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "David Young" <davey@m...>
wrote:
Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill
chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit
the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't bottom
out in the tailstock.

Dave
No Dave the problem is the chuck itself hits the spindle before the
taper engages properly.


David Young <davey@...>
 

Oh.

Dave will shut up now....

:-)


gorvil
 

Are we talking about the taper not fitting in the headstock spindle
or in the tailstock quill? If the shoulder of the chuck itself hits
the quill (the part that moves in and out with the handwheel
rotation) the the taper is too small, maybe a MT1 like my Sherline
headstock taper. But I thought you said it fit snugly in the
headstock, which should make it too big for the tailstock.

I hope your engineer friend can straiten this taper caper out for
you.


Glen Reeser


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "walpick55" <walpick@p...>
wrote:
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "David Young" <davey@m...>
wrote:
Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the
drill
chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still
fit
the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't
bottom
out in the tailstock.

Dave
No Dave the problem is the chuck itself hits the spindle before the
taper engages properly.


kc1fp
 

Don't cut the tailstock. It should be a #2 Morse taper. Look on the
chuck and it will be marked as to what the jacobs taper is for the
chuck. Get an arbor that matches the chuck taper and a #2 Morse
taper. It should be under $10. The tailstock has to be moved out
about 3 turns to put the assembly in and hold. When you bring the
tailstock back all the way the chuck and arbor should pop out.
The arbor should measure about .6 at the tang and .7 near the chuck.

If what you have fits in your spindle snugly then you may have a
sleeve still in the spindle. The 9" lathe should have a #3 morse
taper in the spindle. You may have a #3 to #1 sleeve in the spindle.
This would make the arbor you have fit into the spindle and bottom in
the tailstock. Take a look and see.

JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "walpick55" <walpick@p...>
wrote:
I am a complete novice to lathes and metal turning but have been
reading up before I start.

I have a Jacobs chuck which fits my SB lathe headstock quite snug.
But when I put it into the tailstock it shoulders before the taper
interferes. This means that the whole chuck would turn if I tried
drilling with it.

Does this mean that the internal taper is worn and if so what does
one do about it?

Skimming 2mm off the end of the tail stock would give extra
clearance
and would no doubt make it function but this would remove some of
the
vernier markings.

Am I missing something obvious that seasoned opertators take for
granted as common knowledge?