Heat will be applied only in the immediate zone where glue will be applied, far away from important machined surfaces. casting will be drilled in order to enable the use of lever collet closer as well

Ordinarily, I would say that any used casting that is to be welded or (e.g.) lined with white metal should first be raised to a temperature that will evaporate and burn off all the oil that is contain

be real careful with heat & brake cleaner I know that if ya use it to clean a spot yer gonna weld , it will probably be the last thing ya do animal

THanks about the tip about heating epoxy glue. your assessment of a pea size blob corresponds to the maximum volume I was planning on using in this hole. I will use dental hygienist tools as well. I k

Guy, make sure that the casting has had plenty of opportunity to warm up. I would take it into the house overnight just to avoid over-stressing the metal with a torch or a heat gun when you apply the

AT this point drilling and tapping is not an option. Original hole is plugged with a babbitt . There is not enough place for tapping and screwing a small screw. Hole has to hold the oiler wick. Adding

Yes; that’s basically the process I need to go through. On both sides. No internal clip though. -8 Jim B,

I understand now. You had to make an adapter. The axle has an inside thread for the puller to thread into? My only experience with old vehicles is my 1960 NSU three speed moped, with the engine disass

Hi There, I think it was my post you are remembering. I had one of the last 10K's made by South Bend Lathe when they were getting their castings from S. Korea. Mine also would loose oil from the rear

I find acetone to be a very effective degreaser. In the UK, Boots the chemist sell it in small (50ml) bottles, but it can be obtained in larger qtys on line. Its common use is as nail varnish remover.

I just purchased this epoxy to repair an old carburetor. Specifications claim it is impervious to most fluids and rigid. Nonflexible type. I have not used it yet but have used JB weld in the past with

I would drill, tap, and install a short setscrew, coated in RTV. allan

I have a SB 9A UMD drive that has a recurring oil leak on the left spindle bearing. Initially I thought it was a leak on the oiler git. Tonight I decided to dismantle the reverse tumbler in order to s

Nice work Jim. I have a similar project where I will need to make a unique bolt coming up on my Massey Ferguson rebuild/restoration. I'll try to remember to document, and make a post about it. Waiting

Sure. The New Rear Axles have a 7/8-14 UNF on the end. The slide hammer has a 5/8-16 UNF. The existing axles (I hope) Have the same thread. In order to take the old axle out I need to remove the old a

Can u explain the slide hammer setup? Payson

Looks like your usual great work, Jim. My only experience with an MG is standing in the seat of my Uncle Jack's MG waving my new pirate sword as he zoomed down the road, when I was about 6. I bet you'

Nice job! Sent from Mail for Windows 10

As usual MG related. During the winter, I have been chasing oil leaks. There is a saying about early British cars: “If it does not leak, it's out of oil!” One of the larger leaks was a special bolt, i

All my Polish tooling (6" 3 jaw, height gage, etc) have been outstanding good. My experience with Chinesium on the other hand has been terrible, and some of this was obtained through supposedly 'good'