One of the best things for getting prints to stick to the bed (for PLA) is to rub a glue stick over it then smooth the glue down with a wet paper towel. Then print with the bed heated. When it cools t

It's in Terre Haute, IN. Definitely predates the Workshop 9". Has four chucks and a 9 drawer bench chock full of tooling. https://hibid.com/lot/40681422/south-bend-22-a-metal-lathe--4-bed-and-9--swing

It's pretty easy to skive a leather belt. You need a couple of boards, a pair of small bar clamps, something solid to clamp to, a pen, and a small block plane. 1. Decide how much overlap you want in t

There are places that will make you any width of multi-rib belt, in a huge variety of lengths. I got a custom one made for my still unfinished JET 9x20 CNC conversion. The belt material is made in lon

I used the smallest putty kit from Moglice. After applying the included release agent to the unworn right end of the leadscrew I just clamped them to it. What was left of the threads aligned the half

Nice old lathe. Here's how dad and I mounted a drive setup on a similar age Sears Expert (made by South Bend) of similar age. The main bit was putting 1/4" steel plates between the legs and bed, with

Lesson learned, lathes are not to be lifted by their spindles or things attached to the spindle. I'd try finding a good spindle. A search of eBay for Clausing 5914 turns up quite a bunch of individual

Does this lathe happen to be one built by Amsted?

Gap bed lathes have the handwheel on the right of the apron so the saddle can be run up to the end of the gap and a bit beyond without running the drive gear off the end of the rack. Many non-gap Brit

Where you don't want to use Turcite, Rulon or other low friction machine tool surface rebuilding stuff is on the bottom of a tailstock. Get the bottom of the tailstock straight and the top of the base

Motor soft starters. There's a YouTube video for that. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=motor+soft+start+circuit

Look up a soft starter or slow starter. Might find one surplus or used for less than new $

The back gear doesn't change the ratio of the leadscrew to spindle. It just makes the spindle turn slower, with more torque.

You really want to be careful with this! Hold the ends of the strip between thumb and index finger only. Leave no extra dangling. Absolutely do not wrap any of the emery strip around your hand, finger

Could change it to how I did this 1914 lathe. Put steel plates between the bed and legs, with the one on the headstock end extended out the back to provide a place to hinge the motor and countershaft

You could use a piece of hard shaft (not cuttable with a hacksaw) and some drawn cup needle bearings. Bore out the shaft support or make reducer sleeves as needed to fit the bearings.

The proper tool for those is a hollow ground screw driver or driver bit so the blade sides are parallel. Then it won't slip.

If it's a South Bend it should have the name cast into the front side of the bed. If it has a quick change gearbox, the name will also be on the gear ratio plate. Boxford made copies of South Bend lat

Hardinge 5DS collets can be found in used lots at decent prices. They have an outer sleeve that has the 5C shape. The inner part is available in a collet style or pot chuck style. They're machinable s

Castor oil is of course where Castrol got its name. :) Castor oil was also used in engines with total loss oiling systems such as the rotary and radial aircraft engines used in the early 1900's.