Welcome to the group! :)

That's one thing that surprisingly does not work very well on PLA. I have a thing I had printed up, working on filling and smoothing the surfaces I want to not have the 3D printed texture when I get a

Most of the electronic components have become standardized designs and are pretty much the same, and same quality, from a large number of vendors. If you're building your own printer, I'd recommend bu

Those are like the post-Amsted era. Printed on flat metal rather than having paint fill on embossed brass. Still looks nice but not for those who are sticklers for originality. The early Amsted plates

Nylon should work better for the gears. Some owners of Atlas lathes have had good results, same for at least one guy with a Chinese 9x20. Seems the Nylon layers stick together significantly better tha

Were you there when they did the daisy wheel printers? Singer didn't seem to have a plan on what to do with that so the whole printer team left and formed the Diablo company to manufacture the HyType

Good name for a lathe, for people who name their tools. :) If only the guy's last name had been Howell...

Most machine tools, iron hand tools, sewing machines and other contraptions before WW2 were black, either painted with lacquer or a process called Japaning. They also used a ton of some really tough,

Put a thread on the bored out hole and the outside of the sleeve then assemble with lock tite. then you can bore and thread the sleeve to the thread you need. Once you get that fit to the spindle you'

Just curious if there are. I'm wondering how well, or not, anyone likes the 8K that was discontinued and cleared out last year for under $2000. I've seen quite a few raves about the larger new South B

A pair of thin hardened washers and radial needle (Torrington) bearing from McMaster Carr to replace the left side washers under the take up nut. The washers come in thick and thin, you want the thin

Before Hardinge went to the dovetail bed they used a flat bed with outward sloping sides and a slot down the middle. Commonly called a split bed. The exact same profile was used on at least two other

[SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote: You'll also want to shim up the headstock and tailstock to restore the original height to center above the top of the compound slide.

Still looking for a good bed to replace the bed on a 16/24 with dual lever gearbox, under drive style. Length doesn't matter. Considerably shorter than what's on the lathe would be good. It's a long o

What length is the bed? Looks pretty short, which is what people without a lot of room for a lathe look for, or people who don't work on real long stuff. What's the serial number?

Get a small, fine metal file and a couple different grits of stone to smooth the raised edges around the dings. You can practice on a piece of steel plate. Just smooth down until the edges blend to th

wrote: If there's a forklift available, some 4" wide cargo straps (like used to hold heavy loads onto semi-trailers, not Home Depot ones) looped around the bed webs should handle it, or use some web s

So you need to set it up with a flood cooling system. Deep chip tray with a sump, filter, pump etc. Could also be the wrong cutting angle and/or wrong cutting tool type for the material. What kind of

Some have found cleaning up a worn lathe bed with precision milling to be plenty good enough. Of course the mill must have table travel longer than the lathe bed, or at least as long as from the right

This guy http://www.millermachineandfabrication.com/ for the screw and nut. There are a few ways to repair half nuts. One is to get the smallest Moglice putty kit available. That's enough to do two or