Bob, That's what he's saying. Move the headstock towards the tailstock or away from it to line up the gears. You may be able to just loosen the banjo and slide it further onto the leadscrew support or

I forgot to mention the oil screw in the top of the cross slide. If it is screwed in too far it could act as a locking screw. Take it out first to be safe. Glen Reeser wrote: even a and screw. taken d

<jon.green@p...> wrote: Snip You need to unscrew the whole bushing assembly from the casting as a first step. There is (usually) a hole drilled into the bushing on the bottom side for a spanner wrench

Gene, Run the cross slide all the way back until the feed screw comes out of the nut. Push the cross slide off of the dovetail, you may need to loosen the gibs to do it. Loosen the screw in the cross

Remove the locking split nut. Loosen the bearing cap bolts. Get a large hammer and a block of wood and drive the spindle towards the tailstock. You can use the tailstock to help convince the spindle t

It also occurs to me that if the lathe has been sitting, crud could grow under the cross slide gib. A simple cleaning and adjustment of the gib would hlp. Glen wrote: of, all a may Naturally replaceme

Frank, Do you have the correct tension on the belt? There should be some kind of belt tension adjustment. On the 9's it is a turnbuckle on the tension lever. A lot of us here are thankful for the belt

John, I have sometimes had the work piece try to "climb" the tool when it is mounted below center line. In effect the tool pulls the workpiece into itself. This is more pronounced when there is a lot

Oh no, not paint colors, again! :-o Glen

It looks very handome in that spotless shop. Dennis Pantazis offered to compete with me in a messiest shop contest. I think I'll win. Glen folder

Eric, Go to our sister group SouthBendLathePix and post them there, then post a notice here that you have done so. That group was created to get us some more storage space. Glen Reeser photo I this.

Well, JW, it was very good advice. I first used mine on a 1 1/4" by 1 foot 360 brass round bar to make blanks for 20 tooth 18 DP 14 1/2 PA gears I made. I just kept slicing, even up to 10 inches away

Hi pbrboats, Please don't feel rejected. I see that you first posted a question at 8:30 AM by the time stamp on the message list and by 8:39 you were so disgusted with us that you wrote the message be

Gary, Last time I ordered stuff from Enco they had a sale on T profile carbide cut-off blades, about $8 or $9, I think. Someone on the list was extolling the virtues of this type of blade. They are su

Dave, 200 graduations per revolution is "direct reading" 100 per rev. is normal. Glen Reeser wrote:

The other way is to get an apron, cross feed screw and longitudinal feed screw from an "A" or "B" model and convert. Glen Reeser wrote: some numbers if carrage,

Looking at my sketch, I see I forgot to locate the drilled and tapped hole. It should be on the east west center line of the part. Glen Reeser <wschoenbeck@c...> wrote: to <Glen.Reeser@C...> promised

Jim, The nut alone may not solve the problem. If there is a lot of wear on the screw, the nut won't fix it. There is a description in the files area (I think) on how to fix it with a piece of LH 1/2 x

Jim, The crossfeed nut is shaped like a T. The cross bar part of the T is threaded 7/16 x 10 Acme. The other part of the T is drilled and tapped for a setscrew along the axis of the part. It is also c

Gary, I'm not Rose, but the setscrew has a 60 degree taper on the end that bears on a tapered pin forcing it against the side of the compound slide mounting hole to keep it in place. Run on sentences