There was a write up of someone doing this. I think it was in the files section. I am picking up my new 7 sixteenths x 10 LH Acme tap in the UK next week. Sorry I cant find a slash on this Italian key

If you don't jump on a $200 model A SB you are crazy. Just the gearbox would sell on ebay for $150. I'll give you $100 not to buy it if you tell me where it is within 200 miles of Chicago. Glen Reeser

The belt needs to slip when the saddle crashes into the headstock or when one of the chuck jaws crashes into the compound. Glen Reeser <johnmalcolm@m...> wrote: point does still building tradition, fo

These dovetail measurements are best done by laying a two pieces of drill rod in the dovetail and measuring between them. Do the same to the "outtie" dovetail and knowing the diameter of the rod you c

I used a center punch in the center drilled screw. I held the assembly by the handle with the screw hanging down and tapped the punch until the rest of the stuff fell down. I caught it between my knee

<williscebay@h...> wrote: lathe don't noticed noise, lathe When place, were in Snip It's possible to damage the bearings by running them dry, but if they aren't getting hot and there isn't more than 0

rvas, On most 9" lathes the reverser has smaller toothed gears than the rest of the drive train. Two gears reverse the rotation and a stud comes off for a change gear. The reverser gears are the same

Both of my lathes gear covers have babitted pins for mounting and they both have sagged over the years. I helped one of them with a little hammering around the pin to keep it from moving. The other on

I cut inside threads on the back side of the part with the tool held upside down. You can see what you are doing without leaning over the lathe and getting caught in moving parts. Glen Reeser wrote: c

William, This is a rough casting kit that you finish yourself. Fit and finish depend on how good of a machinist you are. They advertize this kit as a project to do on a 9" lathe. I did most of the wor

Look here. http://www.mscdirect.com/PDF.process?pdf=3807 I don't know your required dimensions, but you should find something that will work. Glen Reeser Taper Attachment Crossfeed Screw . Hoping for

#'s

Vinnie, Both my lathes had wiring diagrams on the inside of the drum switch cover. Glen Reeser wrote: motor for

Dennis, Try googling Judiaca+Dreidel or Judaica+draidel. I saw one top that would run for an hour. It came with a laser to reflect off the top for adjusting balance weights. Glen wrote: tops? one proj

No, I think Clint was taltking about the gearbox output gear that goes on the leadscrew. The stud gear is 18DP, so it's OD should be about (20 + 2)/18 = 1.222...... inches. If the leadscrew gear is 20

The gear is called a bull gear. It is part of the "back gear" drive train. The post is likely for a collet closer or something similar, an indexing attachment, maybe or a place to keep your chuck key.

Pneumatic levelers to make it ride really low when you are working on large diameter stuff would complete the project. Glen Reeser wrote: of what the we all got now grey.

Clint, If it's 18DP 14.5 degree PA I do, but I thought those were 20DP. Does anybody know? I guess I could see if a change gear meshes. It'll have to be tonight, though. Glen wrote: had. I left. I gea

Lurch found some 20 tooth gears somewhere and bought all they had. I bought gear cutters and made 15 or so. I still have a dozen left. I am asking $20.00 including US shipping to cover my cost for the

Tom, I meant it doesn't make any difference whether he uses a Model A 9" apron or a 10K Model A apron. He still needs the gear on the cross slide leadscrew to get power from the apron. It would indeed

Johnny, It makes no difference which apron you get, the saddle needs to have the leadscrew with a gear on the inboard end to work off the worm gear in the apron. As someone pointed out, you could use