PS, glad to hear your not having difficulties! Glenn

Iam a little confused as to if reply is related to the original question about increasing speed on SB 10’s, or you have some trouble getting the VFD to work? Dave, you mentioned your VFD is problemati

Search you tube for Tubalcane aka Mr. Pete. Extensive list of instructional videos. Also Keith Rucker. So Many more, so hard to keep track of them all. I usually search by a specific machining topic,

Looks like it is been cared for properly. I like the face shield someone fitted. Why tear it down??? Just plug it in and see how it works. Why fix it if it doesn’t need it. Unless you know there are m

A good indicator of wear for cross or compound screw and nut is inconsistent DOC and finish when making final cuts. Slight concentric circles in the finish cut means the thread angles on your screw ar

On our 10k at the RR museum, I replaced the drive belt off the motor with an industrial grade V belt from Napa. The headstock belt is an automotive serpentine belt. 6 groove, maybe. The serpentine bel

My .02c is if you have a chronic problem then sure, change the log in. But one person who put up one set of posts and is no longer of the forum probably isn’t worth changing a process that has worked

John, one interesting thing you can do is email or call Grizzly tools and purchase the original purchase card for your lathe. They will send you a PDF of the card, showing date manufactured and delive

Thanks Stephen. Very interesting. Glenn

Any idea why they saw a reduced failure rate? In other words, what effect did not cleaning them out have on motor life? We have 4 traction motor locos running at present. I’d like to pass on the info.

Are you talking about engaging/disengaging the back gear to move from hi speeds to low speeds? If so, perhaps the pin or shaft is simply jammed up with dried oil. Very common occurrence. Try spraying/

You could easily have a new leadscrew and half nut made up for your lathe. Buying anything used will almost insure you are buying something run out beyond useful life. Anyway, I’ve purchased a cross f

Actually it’s pretty simple. Take off both access plates on the cabinet. With a cabinet mount, just loosen the tensioning bar on the right side of the mounting plate and drop the mount and plate down

Robert (Bryan) Miller at Miller Machine and Fabricating makes cross screws and nuts. BTW, you should have screw and nut replaced- they both wear and contribute to problems. millermachineandfabrication

Going thru the same thing. In the past, the only real solution is just drill new holes in the mounting plate. Personally I would not upgrade to higher HP, certainly not 1.5hp. Reason being the older m

#10l

My experience is keyless chucks are convenient but do not grip drill bits very well. Any bit over 3/8” or 1/2” is at risk of spinning in a keylesschuck. Keyed chucks are a bit of a nuisance to work wi

Steve, This is incredible information. Thanks very much for sending it along! Our lathe does indeed display the W.E.F and L.Q.R. Inspector stamps, near the Navy anchor mark.so we know the inspectors i

Hello All, The Hawaii Railway Society, in Ewa Beach, has an old surplus WWII Pearl Harbor SB 10L in our back shops. I would like to come up with some explanation of the WW II stampings on the end side

I think they are one in the same. Although I don’t follow the Sb group much. 744 might be the cat number. SB changed their naming convention several times, but it sounds right. My SB is a 1925 model a

Joel, another good resource is to join the South Bend lathe group on Groups.io. Used to be on Yahoo groups- but Yahoo is now kaput and the company is deleting all groups info inDecember. There are als