Date   
Re: How to

carbure2003
 

On my 9A and 10K UMD I suspend the drive assembly to a ceiling beam with a small block and tackle, through a rope going through the belt path in the headstock and release the pivot bolts.  Then I use the tension on the rope IN order to move it around and get it out of the cabinet.


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "glenn brooks" <brooks.glenn@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] How to
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 10:44:54 -0700

Actually it’s pretty simple. Take off both access plates on the cabinet.  With a cabinet mount, just loosen the tensioning bar on the right side of the mounting plate and drop the mount and plate down to the floor. Support with a 2x4 piece if necessary. Then snake in to the plate with a box end wrench and take out the mounting screws. 

 
Hardest part for me was pulling the motor out of the cabinet.
 
Re install the new motor same way, drop the plate down to the motor, bolt it together, then pull up to reattach the belt.
 
Glenn

 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:34 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io <stoeger666@...> wrote:

 
tool room I believe, the motor is under and hangs upside down (base upwards) the motor is very large and heavy.
 
On Wednesday, 1 April 2020, 19:18:25 EEST, Nathan Baynes <natebaynes@...> wrote:
 
 
If it’s an underdrive with the motor hanging from above,  how about you tell us!!  It is a real bear!!  I just hung a 1 HP single phase in mine....  fingers and knuckles still hurt!!  But for my two cents, I had it propped on some wood scraps, then used a pair of motorcycle ratcheting tie down straps..  one at each end of the motor and up and around the spindle pulley and  then slowly tightened it up into position to get the bolts started through the mounting plate.....  worked pretty well and could probably be done in reverse...
Nate 

 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 12:10 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

            I don't know what lathe ya have , but on my 9A I just remove the belt & tension rod & lay the motor assembly back till it stops & then unbolt the motor

            animal

On 4/1/2020 7:35 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io wrote:
Hello all,
 
I hope everyone is staying well,
 
I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.
 
Thank you,
Mark
 

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Mark Moulding
 

Thanks for checking, George.  That makes for a bit of a mystery, though...  I believe this lathe to be completely stock, with all of the original parts it came with (even the "How To Run A Lathe" book), and the serial number card (I ponyed up the $25 to order it from Grizzly) shows it as a 9"x3'.  Considering my Dad's economic situation at the time, I would have expected hi to get the absolute cheapest model available, which this is in every other way (6-speed, model 'C').  So, why does the bed measure 42" (that's overall, end-to-end, from the left side of the headstock to the far right end)?  Are we measuring the same place?

(My lathe is in a storage unit about 3 miles away, so I can't go measure it at the moment.  Getting the length of the lead-screw would be a telling measurement  - I'll try to get over there later today.)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

mike allen
 

        what's the diameter of the lead screw , can it fit through the chuck & spindle ?

        animal

On 4/2/2020 5:58 AM, George Meinschein wrote:
Mark,
3' bed measures about 36-1/2" and the B and C leadscrews are about 39-3/4". 

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.

Meinschein Engineering Consultants, LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728-1500

Email: george.meinschein@...
Direct Dial: 732-409-0778
Cell: 732-580-1736
Fax: 732-358-0369
www.meinscheinengineering.com

   

On Thu, Apr 2, 2020, 7:20 AM m. allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote:
The screw is not hardened, but yes, it may warp a bit. It wont be
much, and you can straighten it by hand.

On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 5:00 AM Mark Moulding <mark@...> wrote:
>
> Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.  Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without.  With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either.  But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.
>
> But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot.  I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it.  I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again.  It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).
>
> Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it?  (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
> ~~
>
> Mark Moulding
> South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear
>
>



--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"



Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

mike allen
 

        why don't ya do it on the lathe with the follower rest & a die grinder with a nice new endmill  in the tool post

        animal

On 4/2/2020 2:00 AM, Mark Moulding wrote:
Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.  Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without.  With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either.  But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.

But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot.  I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it.  I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again.  It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).

Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it?  (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Roger Bickers
 

Be sure when you make your key that you cut it a half inch longer than the worm gear and that you use a piece larger in thickness than the true keys thickness so you can leave "dog ears" on each end of the worm. If you dont, the key will slip out as the saddle travels.


On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 11:52 AM, carbure2003
<guycad@...> wrote:
Key way can be cut without issue on a small mill  .  The  operation does not require critical accuracy. Key way is to be wide enough for the apron worm key. This key is 3/16 wide and about 3” long.
Make sure you debur the thread after
conversion of a model A screw is not difficult. I would just turn an extension piece and lock it to the screw with a taper or cotter pin


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Mark Moulding" <mark@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2020 02:00:54 -0700

Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.  Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without.  With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either.  But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.

But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot.  I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it.  I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again.  It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).

Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it?  (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?

Ondrej Krejci
 

Cutting the keyway with the lathe milling attachment will be a tad tedious.  A Miracle Point level would be handy.  Making the keyway slightly undersize and using a keyway file to bring in the fit and smooth the transitions would be the way to go.

Best of Luck

On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 07:37:49 PM EDT, Harley Schlinger via groups.io <old1940@...> wrote:


I have cut many of keys with a milling attachment on a 10 inch Logan and now my 14inch South Bend over the past 50 years, Lathes were around many years before milling machines just look at the tooling that was made for the Old South Been Lathes say nothing about all the tooling that Machinist came up for a special item they were making, it’s all about Time and Ingenuity, Just rember the first lathe was not built on a lathe so don’t say it CAN’T BE DONE.

P.S.  You can keep Hammering Bamboo under your finger nails I don’t do pain,



On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 12:08:13 PM PDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


You cannot cut the keyway with the lathe attachment. Well, you probably could, but it would be easier to hammer bamboo sticks under your fingernails. 

Ideally, you would have a friend with a mill large enough to cut it in one pass, but if not, you could set it up and cut the keyway in sections. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Mark Moulding <mark@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 10:55 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?
 
My next question was going to be about how difficult it would be to cut that keyway.  I have a bench-top mill, and also the milling attachment for the South Bend (and I guess there'd be no problem running it without a lead screw for a while).

It seems to me that a huge amount of precision wouldn't be necessary, but it would be a whole new operation for me, and therefore a bit intimidating.  What would be the best way to hold the screw in a vise - rigidly, but without damage?  In fact, what would the whole procedure be?  (I got the "do it in sections" part.)  That screw is probably hardened, right?  So, carbide cutters? A milling saw if I can come up with one? Anyone know the dimensions of that keyway?

Or is this dicey enough that I should just wait until a 9B leadscrew surfaces on eBay?  (It's a 36" six-speed - the absolute cheapest model one could buy.  My dad bought it new...)

Thanks for the input - I really appreciate it!
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

carbure2003
 

Key way can be cut without issue on a small mill  .  The  operation does not require critical accuracy. Key way is to be wide enough for the apron worm key. This key is 3/16 wide and about 3” long.
Make sure you debur the thread after
conversion of a model A screw is not difficult. I would just turn an extension piece and lock it to the screw with a taper or cotter pin


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Mark Moulding" <mark@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2020 02:00:54 -0700

Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.  Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without.  With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either.  But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.

But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot.  I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it.  I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again.  It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).

Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it?  (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

George Meinschein
 

Mark,
3' bed measures about 36-1/2" and the B and C leadscrews are about 39-3/4". 

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.

Meinschein Engineering Consultants, LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728-1500

Email: george.meinschein@...
Direct Dial: 732-409-0778
Cell: 732-580-1736
Fax: 732-358-0369
www.meinscheinengineering.com

   


On Thu, Apr 2, 2020, 7:20 AM m. allan noah <kitno455@...> wrote:
The screw is not hardened, but yes, it may warp a bit. It wont be
much, and you can straighten it by hand.

On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 5:00 AM Mark Moulding <mark@...> wrote:
>
> Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.  Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without.  With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either.  But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.
>
> But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot.  I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it.  I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again.  It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).
>
> Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it?  (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
> ~~
>
> Mark Moulding
> South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear
>
>



--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"



Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

m. allan noah
 

The screw is not hardened, but yes, it may warp a bit. It wont be
much, and you can straighten it by hand.

On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 5:00 AM Mark Moulding <mark@...> wrote:

Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern. Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without. With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either. But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.

But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot. I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it. I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again. It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).

Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it? (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Mark Moulding
 

Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.  Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe, certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably figure out a way to do it without.  With the attachment, it certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be bamboo splinters either.  But I have that table-top mill, and although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it would be too bad.

But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the slot.  I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it.  I bet it's going to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it back to more-or-less straight again.  It looks to me like a *very* slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure, either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken mine apart yet).

Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is exactly 42" long - which is it?  (Just in case I do find a lead screw on eBay...)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Andrei
 

Are we talking about cutting a 42" long keyway?

Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Roger Bickers via groups.io <mr.concrete1964@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 12:49:59 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to
 
You dont need a milling attachment to cut a key way on the lathe. Especially if you've got a follow rest... just set your tool bits center on center (on its edge 90° to the left from normal) and with light cuts move the carriage down the length with the handwheel and etch it in. 


On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 7:37 PM, Harley Schlinger via groups.io
<old1940@...> wrote:

I have cut many of keys with a milling attachment on a 10 inch Logan and now my 14inch South Bend over the past 50 years, Lathes were around many years before milling machines just look at the tooling that was made for the Old South Been Lathes say nothing about all the tooling that Machinist came up for a special item they were making, it’s all about Time and Ingenuity, Just rember the first lathe was not built on a lathe so don’t say it CAN’T BE DONE.

P.S.  You can keep Hammering Bamboo under your finger nails I don’t do pain,



On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 12:08:13 PM PDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


You cannot cut the keyway with the lathe attachment. Well, you probably could, but it would be easier to hammer bamboo sticks under your fingernails. 

Ideally, you would have a friend with a mill large enough to cut it in one pass, but if not, you could set it up and cut the keyway in sections. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Mark Moulding <mark@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 10:55 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?
 
My next question was going to be about how difficult it would be to cut that keyway.  I have a bench-top mill, and also the milling attachment for the South Bend (and I guess there'd be no problem running it without a lead screw for a while).

It seems to me that a huge amount of precision wouldn't be necessary, but it would be a whole new operation for me, and therefore a bit intimidating.  What would be the best way to hold the screw in a vise - rigidly, but without damage?  In fact, what would the whole procedure be?  (I got the "do it in sections" part.)  That screw is probably hardened, right?  So, carbide cutters? A milling saw if I can come up with one? Anyone know the dimensions of that keyway?

Or is this dicey enough that I should just wait until a 9B leadscrew surfaces on eBay?  (It's a 36" six-speed - the absolute cheapest model one could buy.  My dad bought it new...)

Thanks for the input - I really appreciate it!
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Roger Bickers
 

You dont need a milling attachment to cut a key way on the lathe. Especially if you've got a follow rest... just set your tool bits center on center (on its edge 90° to the left from normal) and with light cuts move the carriage down the length with the handwheel and etch it in. 


On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 7:37 PM, Harley Schlinger via groups.io
<old1940@...> wrote:

I have cut many of keys with a milling attachment on a 10 inch Logan and now my 14inch South Bend over the past 50 years, Lathes were around many years before milling machines just look at the tooling that was made for the Old South Been Lathes say nothing about all the tooling that Machinist came up for a special item they were making, it’s all about Time and Ingenuity, Just rember the first lathe was not built on a lathe so don’t say it CAN’T BE DONE.

P.S.  You can keep Hammering Bamboo under your finger nails I don’t do pain,



On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 12:08:13 PM PDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


You cannot cut the keyway with the lathe attachment. Well, you probably could, but it would be easier to hammer bamboo sticks under your fingernails. 

Ideally, you would have a friend with a mill large enough to cut it in one pass, but if not, you could set it up and cut the keyway in sections. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Mark Moulding <mark@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 10:55 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?
 
My next question was going to be about how difficult it would be to cut that keyway.  I have a bench-top mill, and also the milling attachment for the South Bend (and I guess there'd be no problem running it without a lead screw for a while).

It seems to me that a huge amount of precision wouldn't be necessary, but it would be a whole new operation for me, and therefore a bit intimidating.  What would be the best way to hold the screw in a vise - rigidly, but without damage?  In fact, what would the whole procedure be?  (I got the "do it in sections" part.)  That screw is probably hardened, right?  So, carbide cutters? A milling saw if I can come up with one? Anyone know the dimensions of that keyway?

Or is this dicey enough that I should just wait until a 9B leadscrew surfaces on eBay?  (It's a 36" six-speed - the absolute cheapest model one could buy.  My dad bought it new...)

Thanks for the input - I really appreciate it!
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?

Harley Schlinger
 

I have cut many of keys with a milling attachment on a 10 inch Logan and now my 14inch South Bend over the past 50 years, Lathes were around many years before milling machines just look at the tooling that was made for the Old South Been Lathes say nothing about all the tooling that Machinist came up for a special item they were making, it’s all about Time and Ingenuity, Just rember the first lathe was not built on a lathe so don’t say it CAN’T BE DONE.

P.S.  You can keep Hammering Bamboo under your finger nails I don’t do pain,



On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 12:08:13 PM PDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


You cannot cut the keyway with the lathe attachment. Well, you probably could, but it would be easier to hammer bamboo sticks under your fingernails. 

Ideally, you would have a friend with a mill large enough to cut it in one pass, but if not, you could set it up and cut the keyway in sections. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Mark Moulding <mark@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 10:55 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?
 
My next question was going to be about how difficult it would be to cut that keyway.  I have a bench-top mill, and also the milling attachment for the South Bend (and I guess there'd be no problem running it without a lead screw for a while).

It seems to me that a huge amount of precision wouldn't be necessary, but it would be a whole new operation for me, and therefore a bit intimidating.  What would be the best way to hold the screw in a vise - rigidly, but without damage?  In fact, what would the whole procedure be?  (I got the "do it in sections" part.)  That screw is probably hardened, right?  So, carbide cutters? A milling saw if I can come up with one? Anyone know the dimensions of that keyway?

Or is this dicey enough that I should just wait until a 9B leadscrew surfaces on eBay?  (It's a 36" six-speed - the absolute cheapest model one could buy.  My dad bought it new...)

Thanks for the input - I really appreciate it!
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?

Andrei
 

You cannot cut the keyway with the lathe attachment. Well, you probably could, but it would be easier to hammer bamboo sticks under your fingernails. 

Ideally, you would have a friend with a mill large enough to cut it in one pass, but if not, you could set it up and cut the keyway in sections. 


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Mark Moulding <mark@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 10:55 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to 9-B conversion (no quickchange)?
 
My next question was going to be about how difficult it would be to cut that keyway.  I have a bench-top mill, and also the milling attachment for the South Bend (and I guess there'd be no problem running it without a lead screw for a while).

It seems to me that a huge amount of precision wouldn't be necessary, but it would be a whole new operation for me, and therefore a bit intimidating.  What would be the best way to hold the screw in a vise - rigidly, but without damage?  In fact, what would the whole procedure be?  (I got the "do it in sections" part.)  That screw is probably hardened, right?  So, carbide cutters? A milling saw if I can come up with one? Anyone know the dimensions of that keyway?

Or is this dicey enough that I should just wait until a 9B leadscrew surfaces on eBay?  (It's a 36" six-speed - the absolute cheapest model one could buy.  My dad bought it new...)

Thanks for the input - I really appreciate it!
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Re: How to

glenn brooks
 

Actually it’s pretty simple. Take off both access plates on the cabinet.  With a cabinet mount, just loosen the tensioning bar on the right side of the mounting plate and drop the mount and plate down to the floor. Support with a 2x4 piece if necessary. Then snake in to the plate with a box end wrench and take out the mounting screws. 

Hardest part for me was pulling the motor out of the cabinet.

Re install the new motor same way, drop the plate down to the motor, bolt it together, then pull up to reattach the belt.

Glenn


On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:34 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io <stoeger666@...> wrote:

tool room I believe, the motor is under and hangs upside down (base upwards) the motor is very large and heavy.

On Wednesday, 1 April 2020, 19:18:25 EEST, Nathan Baynes <natebaynes@...> wrote:


If it’s an underdrive with the motor hanging from above,  how about you tell us!!  It is a real bear!!  I just hung a 1 HP single phase in mine....  fingers and knuckles still hurt!!  But for my two cents, I had it propped on some wood scraps, then used a pair of motorcycle ratcheting tie down straps..  one at each end of the motor and up and around the spindle pulley and  then slowly tightened it up into position to get the bolts started through the mounting plate.....  worked pretty well and could probably be done in reverse...
Nate 


On Apr 1, 2020, at 12:10 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:



            I don't know what lathe ya have , but on my 9A I just remove the belt & tension rod & lay the motor assembly back till it stops & then unbolt the motor

            animal

On 4/1/2020 7:35 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io wrote:
Hello all,

I hope everyone is staying well,

I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.

Thank you,
Mark

Re: How to

jahick4@...
 
Edited

Mark,
I literally just got done with this myself on my 10L. Had to do it twice, unfortunately because my new motor pulley didn’t align correctly. Fun, I assure you. Anyway, I believe it’s assembled the same way. First you want to support the motor - I used a couple of paving bricks on their side as U wasn’t concerned with the old motor’s looks - then undo the nut on the tensioning bolt on the front left of the motor plate. Others have mentioned using an automotive jack, but I found this to not work with the space I had. There is a single set screw holding the hinge pin in place. It’s on the left ear of the upper part of the assembly. Once that is removed the real fun begins. 

You’ll want both side plates removed, and you’ll want to use a drift of some kind to drive the pin out. It’s an awkward angle, so you’ll likely end up having to switch to something thinner as it goes. If you’re lucky, it won’t put up much of a fight. In my case, I could only drive it through so far before I ran out of ability to reach the right side of the pin, so I took a thick shop rag and wrapped it around the pin and then used a pair of snap on pipe wrench pliers (pwz1) and spun it out. It worked well and didn’t mark the pin any.

I hope you find this helpful!

Resoectfully,

John

Re: How to

Fred Flintstone
 

tool room I believe, the motor is under and hangs upside down (base upwards) the motor is very large and heavy.

On Wednesday, 1 April 2020, 19:18:25 EEST, Nathan Baynes <natebaynes@...> wrote:


If it’s an underdrive with the motor hanging from above,  how about you tell us!!  It is a real bear!!  I just hung a 1 HP single phase in mine....  fingers and knuckles still hurt!!  But for my two cents, I had it propped on some wood scraps, then used a pair of motorcycle ratcheting tie down straps..  one at each end of the motor and up and around the spindle pulley and  then slowly tightened it up into position to get the bolts started through the mounting plate.....  worked pretty well and could probably be done in reverse...
Nate 


On Apr 1, 2020, at 12:10 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:



            I don't know what lathe ya have , but on my 9A I just remove the belt & tension rod & lay the motor assembly back till it stops & then unbolt the motor

            animal

On 4/1/2020 7:35 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io wrote:
Hello all,

I hope everyone is staying well,

I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.

Thank you,
Mark

Re: How to

Nathan Baynes
 

If it’s an underdrive with the motor hanging from above,  how about you tell us!!  It is a real bear!!  I just hung a 1 HP single phase in mine....  fingers and knuckles still hurt!!  But for my two cents, I had it propped on some wood scraps, then used a pair of motorcycle ratcheting tie down straps..  one at each end of the motor and up and around the spindle pulley and  then slowly tightened it up into position to get the bolts started through the mounting plate.....  worked pretty well and could probably be done in reverse...
Nate 


On Apr 1, 2020, at 12:10 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:



            I don't know what lathe ya have , but on my 9A I just remove the belt & tension rod & lay the motor assembly back till it stops & then unbolt the motor

            animal

On 4/1/2020 7:35 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io wrote:
Hello all,

I hope everyone is staying well,

I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.

Thank you,
Mark

Re: How to

mike allen
 

            I don't know what lathe ya have , but on my 9A I just remove the belt & tension rod & lay the motor assembly back till it stops & then unbolt the motor

            animal

On 4/1/2020 7:35 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io wrote:
Hello all,

I hope everyone is staying well,

I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.

Thank you,
Mark

Re: How to

Fred Flintstone
 

1943 13"

On Wednesday, 1 April 2020, 18:40:02 EEST, carbure2003 <guycad@...> wrote:


Which lathe model do you have?

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io" <stoeger666@...>
To: southbendlathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] How to
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 14:35:40 +0000 (UTC)

Hello all,
 
I hope everyone is staying well,
 
I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.
 
Thank you,
Mark