Date   

Re: replacement belt for 10L

John Dammeyer
 

I used a serpentine belt.  Laced together with mig wire.  That was 10 years ago and it still works.  When I jam the parting tool in the work it squeals horribly.  I think a couple of the mig wire stitches have now broken so it's probably time to resew it.

 

But It's very quiet.  No ticking sounds really.

John Dammeyer

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of glenn brooks
Sent: August-16-20 8:29 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] replacement belt for 10L

 

Automotive serpentine belts make excellent replacements for the old style flat belts.

 

Glenn 


On Aug 16, 2020, at 8:05 AM, John Gallo via groups.io <johnnyblock1@...> wrote:

Hi,

I need to replace the flat belt on my 10L. I see that there are two different types on e-bay. One has the conventional lacing, and the other is skived and assembled with glue. The glue up model seems to be better as there are no bumps as it passes over the pulleys. One of the reviews said that this belt was like a rubberband
and not suited for a 1 horse power motor. My motor is 1 1/2 horse and I don't know what to buy. Has anyone tried this glue together belt.? I am just trying to find the best alternative for my machine.

Thanks, John.


Re: replacement belt for 10L

glenn brooks
 

Automotive serpentine belts make excellent replacements for the old style flat belts.

Glenn 


On Aug 16, 2020, at 8:05 AM, John Gallo via groups.io <johnnyblock1@...> wrote:

Hi,

I need to replace the flat belt on my 10L. I see that there are two different types on e-bay. One has the conventional lacing, and the other is skived and assembled with glue. The glue up model seems to be better as there are no bumps as it passes over the pulleys. One of the reviews said that this belt was like a rubberband
and not suited for a 1 horse power motor. My motor is 1 1/2 horse and I don't know what to buy. Has anyone tried this glue together belt.? I am just trying to find the best alternative for my machine.

Thanks, John.


replacement belt for 10L

John Gallo
 

Hi,

I need to replace the flat belt on my 10L. I see that there are two different types on e-bay. One has the conventional lacing, and the other is skived and assembled with glue. The glue up model seems to be better as there are no bumps as it passes over the pulleys. One of the reviews said that this belt was like a rubberband
and not suited for a 1 horse power motor. My motor is 1 1/2 horse and I don't know what to buy. Has anyone tried this glue together belt.? I am just trying to find the best alternative for my machine.

Thanks, John.


Re: 9a for sale. Hudson Valley, NY.

John Gallo
 

The lathe has been sold.


Re: Thread dial for circa 1938 13”

Todd
 


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of myhilo <gmyhilo@...>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 6:22:42 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Thread dial for circa 1938 13”
 
Where did you post your 13" .
Link please.


Re: clutch lever problem on heavy ten

John Gallo
 

Problem solved. I skipped over the part in the instructions that says to first lock the lever to the clutch shaft via a set screw on the handle. This also adjusts the position that the lever will lock the clutch up.

Thanks for your attention, John.


Re: clutch lever problem on heavy ten

Steven H
 

Just a guess. Could be 2 set screws, one on top the other. Try removing the set screw completely and see if there is another set screw underneath.

Steve Haskell


On Aug 15, 2020, at 7:24 AM, John Gallo via groups.io <johnnyblock1@...> wrote:

Hi,

I am trying to adjust and lock the rotational position of the toggle clutch lever on my heavy ten. The book in the files section says to loosen the set screw just under the lever, rotate the lever to the desired angle, and tighten and lock the set screw. This does not work on my lathe, as tightening the set screw will not lock the lever. Am I missing some thing in the directions, or is there another part involved? Maybe some one else can give me some direction here.

Thanks, John.


clutch lever problem on heavy ten

John Gallo
 

Hi,

I am trying to adjust and lock the rotational position of the toggle clutch lever on my heavy ten. The book in the files section says to loosen the set screw just under the lever, rotate the lever to the desired angle, and tighten and lock the set screw. This does not work on my lathe, as tightening the set screw will not lock the lever. Am I missing some thing in the directions, or is there another part involved? Maybe some one else can give me some direction here.

Thanks, John.


Re: Thread dial for circa 1938 13”

myhilo
 

Where did you post your 13" .
Link please.


Re: 13" in Michigan for parts

Todd
 

Hi Mike, I do. When are you thinking ?

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Michael Leone via groups.io <mleone1352@...>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2020 3:06:33 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 13" in Michigan for parts
 

I'm Mike Leone from Austintown Ohio. We talked about my buying the right end leg set from the 13in you have. Do you still have it?
I still want it. I can travel now. And I can make the trip.
       Do you have a steady rest for It or follower rest?







On Monday, July 20, 2020 Todd <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> wrote:

3rd try...

I have a 13", serial 61491 that I saved from the scrapper. Sadly it's missing the entire spindle assy and since I already have a 14.5" I'm restoring (in the background), I am offering up everything on this 13" to save others. 

  Todd 


Re: 13" in Michigan for parts

Michael Leone
 

I'm Mike Leone from Austintown Ohio. We talked about my buying the right end leg set from the 13in you have. Do you still have it?
I still want it. I can travel now. And I can make the trip.
       Do you have a steady rest for It or follower rest?







On Monday, July 20, 2020 Todd <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> wrote:

3rd try...

I have a 13", serial 61491 that I saved from the scrapper. Sadly it's missing the entire spindle assy and since I already have a 14.5" I'm restoring (in the background), I am offering up everything on this 13" to save others. 

  Todd 


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

david pennington
 

"...the guy that sells the transposing sets on line....

Who might that be?

David W. Pennington
Denver, Colorado
720-442-3744 - Please note the new number.


On Thursday, August 13, 2020, 06:07:11 PM MDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I think we are on the same track.  I looked up the guy that sells the transposing sets on line and saw what I think was the 80 t idler mounted on the bottom arm of the banjo.  I need to get or fabricate another stud but I think it will fit and allow me to use the 20 t stud gear and the 40t stud gear. I guess everything will run in reverse with the extra idler in play.  Thanks for your help . 


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

Jim_B
 

Glad we could help. 

On Aug 13, 2020, at 8:07 PM, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:

I think we are on the same track.  I looked up the guy that sells the transposing sets on line and saw what I think was the 80 t idler mounted on the bottom arm of the banjo.  I need to get or fabricate another stud but I think it will fit and allow me to use the 20 t stud gear and the 40t stud gear. I guess everything will run in reverse with the extra idler in play.  Thanks for your help . 

Jim B.





--
Jim B


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

drinkr55
 

I think we are on the same track.  I looked up the guy that sells the transposing sets on line and saw what I think was the 80 t idler mounted on the bottom arm of the banjo.  I need to get or fabricate another stud but I think it will fit and allow me to use the 20 t stud gear and the 40t stud gear. I guess everything will run in reverse with the extra idler in play.  Thanks for your help . 


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

Jim_B
 

I did find this. It should give him an Idea on how to go. He may need to fab another bracket. 
Now, in truth, this is the 405 set up for slow turning. There is a 2:1 compound engaged with the stud. This meshes  with a 5:1 (100/20) on the other arm of the banjo. Then the turning gear meshes wit the 20 tooth 5:1 compound. 

Something like this should work. His idler could ba any gear that fits. 

On Aug 13, 2020, at 6:18 PM, Phillip Rankin <phillip.rankin1964@...> wrote:

Jim, 
I'm thinking he has the compound installed in the  photograph sa per your discription. The 37/47 compound is pretty small. He may need to add another gear to the gear train to make it work. The 40 tooth gear might work, but I don't know how well it would ride on a shaft  awith a keyway cut in the gear.

P. Rankin

Jim B.





--
Jim B


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

Jim_B
 

Yes Phil, that’s a condition I have run into. That’s why the later banjos were Y shaped. So you could mount idlers on them My 34’ came with a single arm. I had to get a later one. I think the key way issue is ok. I seem remember I had and I made little sleeves that went into the gears and the studs clamped on them.  
BUT I had different gears.  I will look at my files to see if I have a picture. 

-8
Jim B,

On Aug 13, 2020, at 6:18 PM, Phillip Rankin <phillip.rankin1964@...> wrote:

Jim, 
I'm thinking he has the compound installed in the  photograph sa per your discription. The 37/47 compound is pretty small. He may need to add another gear to the gear train to make it work. The 40 tooth gear might work, but I don't know how well it would ride on a shaft  awith a keyway cut in the gear.

P. Rankin

--
Jim B


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

drinkr55
 

Thanks Jim I still don’t have enough to engage all the gears 


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

Phillip Rankin
 

Jim, 
I'm thinking he has the compound installed in the  photograph sa per your discription. The 37/47 compound is pretty small. He may need to add another gear to the gear train to make it work. The 40 tooth gear might work, but I don't know how well it would ride on a shaft  awith a keyway cut in the gear.

P. Rankin


Re: 37/47 transposing gear on 9”model A

Phillip Rankin
 

There are several ways to cut a close 1.5 mm thread approximation. All of these methods will work, but you will need a few additional change gears. Since you have a 37/47 transposing gear we'll start there.
1. Loosen the nuts holding the spindle, idler, and gear box gears in place. Loosen the banjo, and swing the 80 tooth idler gear out of mesh with the top spindle gear. Replace your 80 tooth idler gear with the transposing gear so that the larger 47 tooth side will mesh with the gear on the lathe spindle. Replace the 20 tooth spindle gear with a 36 tooth change gear. Remove the gears from the gear box. Place the 20 tooth gear from the spindle on the gear box first. It will act as a spacer. Then place the 56 tooth gear on the gear box, and replace the nut. Hand tighten the nuts that hold the gears in place.Roll the banjo up and mesh the gear train. Be sure to leave a little play in between the gears, and tighten the everything down. The 36 tooth gear on the spindle should mesh with the 47 tooth gear on the transposing gear. The 37 tooth gear on the transposing gear should mesh with the 56 tooth gear on the gear box. Set the gear box to cut 24tpi. (left lever in the B hole working left to right, right lever in the 6th hole working left to right) That will give you a nominal 1.4997mm thread.  If you don't have a 36 tooth gear you can pick one up on eBay, or someone on this forum my have one for sale.

2. Loosen the the nuts on the spindle, and idler gears. Loosen the banjo, and let it drop out of the mesh with the spindle gear. Replace the spindle gear with a 52 tooth gear. Snug up the nut on the spindle gear. swing the banjo up into place, and mesh all the gears. Leave a little play between the gears, or you will get a lot of gear noise. Tighten the banjo, and all the nuts on the gear train. Set the gear box to cut 44tpi (left gear box lever in the C hole working left to right, and the right lever in the 4th hole working left to right). That will give you nominal 1.5009mm thread.

3.Use the same procedure as number 2, but use a 54 tooth gear, and set the gear box to cut 46tpi (left gear box lever in the C hole working left to right, and the right lever in the 5th hole working left to right). That will give you a nominal 1.4909mm thread.

Since I do not have a transposing gear I have used methods 2, and 3 many times with no problems. If you don't have any of the mentioned gears you can pick them up on eBay, or someone on this forum my have one for sale.
  


Re: 37/47 transposing gear set up issues on 9A

Jim_B
 

Flip the compound around so the stud gear mates with large gear on compound. 
Move gear box gear close to gearbox to clear large compound gear and engage smaller compound gear. Should be a spacer behind gear box gear. 

-8
Jim B,

On Aug 13, 2020, at 5:18 PM, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:

I am having a problem with the 37/47 transposing gear set up .  With the 37/47 t gear on the idler pulley shaft and a 56t gear on the screw / gear box pulley I can’t engage with my 20t stud gear or even a 40t stud gear. Any thoughts on how to make this work for cutting metric. 
<1D330E21-4945-4A3D-8530-FD8F0041F0B3.jpeg>

--
Jim B