Date   
Re: Would like to join this group

Nelson <nelson.timken@...>
 

Steve,

 

Looks like you are already a member. Welcome.

 

Nelson Timken

Founder

Hobby-Machinist.com

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Steven H via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2018 8:02 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Would like to join this group

 

Hello. I am retired and own and run a one-man machine shop from my home garage. I just purchased a used 1960’s vintage 16 inch South Bend lathe and would like to join this group. Thanks.
Steve Haskell, Steves Machine Shop LLC, Troy, MI

Would like to join this group

Steven H
 

Hello. I am retired and own and run a one-man machine shop from my home garage. I just purchased a used 1960’s vintage 16 inch South Bend lathe and would like to join this group. Thanks.
Steve Haskell, Steves Machine Shop LLC, Troy, MI

Re: SB 13" x 5 Bed in New Jersey, under $ 1000

comstock_friend
 

Catalog 5700 says a CL145B weighs 1510 pounds 'crated' (1940 pounds 'boxed'). 

The 5 foot bed yields 28" between centers.

I much prefer my 13" over my very nice 9" Model A. MUCH more RIGID.

John

SB 13" x 5 Bed in New Jersey, under $ 1000

comstock_friend
 

Ebay offering, starting bid $10:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263774031282?ul_noapp=true

It needs a little love, but better than a 9"er at $2000...

John

Re: SouthBend on Medosto CL

George Meinschein
 

The asking price for South Bend lathes seems to be from $500 to $3000 on Craigslist around here. Makes no difference what size.  The higher priced ones usually stay listed for months. The lower priced ones usually seem to be gone within a few weeks. I get the feeling that the sale price of the larger lathes takes into account the hassle/expense of moving 2000+ pounds.  Some people think they have gold. Others are thrilled just to have someone respond to their ad.

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.


WANTED: Bent, busted, rusted, and/or generally dysfunctional long guns

Meinschein Engineering Consultants, LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728-1500

Email: george.meinschein@...
Direct Dial: 732-409-0778
Cell: 732-580-1736
Fax: 732-358-0369
www.meinscheinengineering.com

   

On Fri, Jun 22, 2018, 10:04 PM mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
         Seems high to me but who knows

https://modesto.craigslist.org/tls/d/1950s-vintage-southbend-lathe/6609580798.html

         animal





Re: Spindle register issue

m. allan noah
 

So, if you turn that piece of steel on the 9A with the altered
spindle, it will run true. If you then remove and reinstall the chuck
without removing the workpiece from it, does it repeat well?

allan

On Fri, Jun 22, 2018 at 9:46 PM, carbure2003 <guycad@...> wrote:

I machined a piece of steel.

On my 10K, it repeats within less than half a thou.

Same chuck transferred on 9A with intact spindle, it repeats within 3 thou.

On the 9A with altered spindle, it is off centered by 7 thou.

3 thou is acceptable, 7 is not.

Guy



---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Jim_B" <@Jim_B>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle register issue
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2018 21:44:12 -0400

I have many times removed a chuck with a face plate in it, while threading the face plate, to test the fit on the spindle threads.
When the chuck and face plate were screwed back on registration was perfect.

I am not sure if all my chucks were tight fits on the “registration step” or they used the threads and the spindle stop.

The 9” Workshop and the 10k have a very small stop behind the register.
If the faceplate has any radius on the threaded bore you may or may not properly register on the stop.
The Heavy 10 and larger lathes have a good stop.


Sent from my iPhone-8
Jim B,

On Jun 21, 2018, at 8:28 PM, Davis Johnson <davis@...> wrote:

HTRL agrees with you (heresy around here, tho).

I'd be interested in an experiment.

Chuck up a short piece of scrap, turn the outside for a bit.

The part you just turned will be exactly concentric. Check it with an indicator.

Unmount/remount the chuck several times without removing the piece of scrap. Each time check it with an indicator.

I really would be interested in the results, and would do the experiment myself except that I don't have a chuck with a loose register.




--
Jim B


____________________________________________________________
We Say Goodbye To Lara Spencer
risingstarnewspaper.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5b2da6b340efa26b323b4st03vuc


--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"

SouthBend on Medosto CL

mike allen
 

Re: Spindle register issue

carbure2003
 

I machined a piece of steel.

On my 10K, it repeats within less than half a thou.

Same chuck transferred on 9A with intact spindle, it repeats within 3 thou.

On the 9A with altered spindle, it is off centered by 7 thou.

3 thou is acceptable, 7 is not.

Guy

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Jim_B" <@Jim_B>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle register issue
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2018 21:44:12 -0400

I have many times removed a chuck with a face plate in it, while threading the face plate, to test the fit on the spindle threads.
When the chuck and face plate were screwed back on registration was perfect.

I am not sure if all my chucks were tight fits on the “registration step” or they used the threads and the spindle stop.

The 9” Workshop and the 10k have a very small stop behind the register.
If the faceplate has any radius on the threaded bore you may or may not properly register on the stop.
The Heavy 10 and larger lathes have a good stop.


Sent from my iPhone-8
Jim B,

On Jun 21, 2018, at 8:28 PM, Davis Johnson <davis@...> wrote:

HTRL agrees with you (heresy around here, tho).

I'd be interested in an experiment.

Chuck up a short piece of scrap, turn the outside for a bit.

The part you just turned will be exactly concentric. Check it with an indicator.

Unmount/remount the chuck several times without removing the piece of scrap. Each time check it with an indicator.

I really would be interested in the results, and would do the experiment myself except that I don't have a chuck with a loose register.




--
Jim B


____________________________________________________________
We Say Goodbye To Lara Spencer
risingstarnewspaper.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5b2da6b340efa26b323b4st03vuc

Re: ADV: Re: [SouthBendLathe] broken bed clamp for SB13 taper attachment

ken campbell
 

thanks ... brass sounds pretty ... on to the scrap box ...

Re: 9" model C, 3' bed in West KY

mike allen
 

        Roger thanks , but I have a few other things that are in front a steady rest for the time being

        animal


On 6/21/2018 10:01 AM, Roger Bickers via Groups.Io wrote:
Animal,  i got a steady rest for your lathe and it only needs painted. Id take $200.00 and shipping for it.  I cant use it... my lathes an old "wide bed 9". Roger




Re: broken bed clamp for SB13 taper attachment

Jim_B
 

That’s exactly what I did except in Brass. I used it for 20 years till I found one on eBay.

Sent from my iPhone-8
Jim B,

On Jun 22, 2018, at 8:03 AM, ken campbell <deltainc@...> wrote:

ok, my stock cast iron top clamp is busted ( that clamps the tail rod to the bed ) ... i am thinking to just take some 1 x 4 rect. aluminum and mill in a groove and drill a bolt hole and use that ... i suspect this part breaks a lot ... so anybody else have a more elegant ( better looking ) idea ? thanks.



--
Jim B

Re: Posting Pictures at SouthBendLathe@groups.io

Jim_B
 

Any time Ed

-8
Jim B,

On Jun 22, 2018, at 2:59 AM, Flash Gordon <eschwerkolt@...> wrote:

Jim,

Very very nice. I should stop in for a ride.

Ed S

 


On 6/15/2018 11:53 PM, Jim_B wrote:

GP, It an MG-TD.  In good drivable condition they sell between $18K and $25K

 

Bill in OK, Yes I have always wished for more project orientated posts.

 

As Ed noted I have made many parts, some standard some custom for the MG. 

It was often cheaper and easier to do this. For instance, if a clevis was worn oval, drill it out and machine a new oversize pin.




--
Jim B

Re: Spindle register issue

Paolo Amedeo
 

Unfortunately, if the shoulder of your backing plate is not cut correctly and making proper contact with the shoulder on the spindle, your results won't be very meaningful: the chuck could mount fairly repeatably on the spindle you ground the jaws on, even with the shoulders not making contact at all and just the threads being jammed. But, as soon as you mount it on practically any other spindle, it will be off. By using the unthreaded portion of the spindle to align the backplate (sorry, I won't call it a register, since it is not intended to be it), the backplate will be crocked the amount of play between internal and external diameter.

I agree with Jim that the shoulder on SB 9" is ridiculously tiny and that you need to make sure to cut a very sharp shoulder on the backplate.

Paolo
Damascus, MD

On 6/21/2018 21:47, carbure2003 wrote:
I will do the experiment tomorrow night. I have 3 SB in the basement ( one is not powered, being in storage)

I will turn a piece and move it from lathe to lathe and take measurements.

I am quite sure the lathe with altered register will always be off.

We will see how repetitive readings will be.

I am a strong believer that the altered register has an effect on chuck Alignment. We will also see if the high point repeats as well.

I will publish results tomorrow.
In the meanwhile, the question about register rebuild is in the air.

Worst case scenario, the original 9A spindle will be back in commission until I find a viable solution

Guy Cadrin

Re: Spindle register issue

m. allan noah
 

I have repeatedly done this experiment on a couple different lathes,
and the work always repeats to within a tenth, even in cases where the
register bore the the chuck backplate is several thou oversize. The
only time i see any variation is if I tighten the chuck differently,
and that seems to be corrected by the first good depth cut. Thats why
I feel confident enough to suggest heresy :)

If I were dead-set on enlarging the register, i would probably turn it
further undersize, and shrink a ring onto it, and then turn the ring
in situ. I'd try to avoid heating the spindle, don't want to mess with
any heat treatment, or cause any warping.

allan

On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 8:28 PM, Davis Johnson <davis@...> wrote:
HTRL agrees with you (heresy around here, tho).

I'd be interested in an experiment.

Chuck up a short piece of scrap, turn the outside for a bit.

The part you just turned will be exactly concentric. Check it with an
indicator.

Unmount/remount the chuck several times without removing the piece of scrap.
Each time check it with an indicator.

I really would be interested in the results, and would do the experiment
myself except that I don't have a chuck with a loose register.



On 06/21/2018 08:15 PM, m. allan noah wrote:

I'll buck the conventional wisdom, and state that the register
diameter does not matter at all. The conical face of the thread, and
the flat shoulder behind the register are sufficiently to achieve
kinematic positioning of the chuck.

I daresay the problem is your testing method. Reground jaws is
basically meaningless, unless they were ground on the lathe in
question, properly preloaded, with the diameter set to exactly the
size of the stock you are now holding. Take of the chuck, and put it
back on, and see if it is consistent. That is a true test.

allan

On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 8:00 PM, carbure2003 <guycad@...> wrote:

About. a year ago, I bought a 10K spindle on ebay.

As I have not used much the lathe where I fitted the spindle, ( only with
collets) I never noticed that the register was under sized. (1.495 in dia),
quite likely machined by a previous owner.

I trialed a chuck with freshly re ground jaws on it and it was defenitely
off centered by many thou.

Register defenitely has importance when yo want to swap chucks from lathe
to lathe and keep chuck accuracy.
Did somebody ever attempt to rebuild a spindle register ? (Register is
1.510 in dia on my other SB)

If yes, how did you proceed? (Welding is not an option)

Thanks

Guy Cadrin
____________________________________________________________
70s Millionaire Returns with Surprising Prediction
unrestrictedinvesting.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5b2c3c71941fa3c711a12st03vuc



--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"

broken bed clamp for SB13 taper attachment

ken campbell
 

ok, my stock cast iron top clamp is busted ( that clamps the tail rod to the bed )  ... i am thinking to just take some 1 x 4 rect. aluminum and mill in a groove and drill a bolt hole and use that ... i suspect this part breaks a lot ... so anybody else have a more elegant ( better looking ) idea ?  thanks.

Re: Posting Pictures at SouthBendLathe@groups.io

Flash Gordon
 

Jim,

Very very nice. I should stop in for a ride.

Ed S

 


On 6/15/2018 11:53 PM, Jim_B wrote:

GP, It an MG-TD.  In good drivable condition they sell between $18K and $25K

 

Bill in OK, Yes I have always wished for more project orientated posts.

 

As Ed noted I have made many parts, some standard some custom for the MG. 

It was often cheaper and easier to do this. For instance, if a clevis was worn oval, drill it out and machine a new oversize pin.



Re: Taper attachment

Fred Flintstone
 

Thank you.

I thought it was strange when I was told they were the same, that is why I asked.

Take care,
Mark

On Thursday, June 21, 2018, 8:31:54 PM CDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Will look into it. 
On the Yahoo Group only moderators could add files. 

-8
Jim B,

On Jun 21, 2018, at 8:55 PM, comstock_friend <jfriend314@...> wrote:

Sorry, I was wrong. It DID add the attachment! I just couldn't see it in my reply message. 

Jim B, It doesn't appear that we can add files in the file section (I get a 'NO' symbol with the curser over the ADD FILES button) . Maybe only you as admin???

John

--
Jim B

Re: Spindle register issue

carbure2003
 

I will do the experiment tomorrow night. I have 3 SB in the basement ( one is not powered, being in storage)

I will turn a piece and move it from lathe to lathe and take measurements.

I am quite sure the lathe with altered register will always be off.

We will see how repetitive readings will be.

I am a strong believer that the altered register has an effect on chuck Alignment. We will also see if the high point repeats as well.

I will publish results tomorrow.
In the meanwhile, the question about register rebuild is in the air.

Worst case scenario, the original 9A spindle will be back in commission until I find a viable solution

Guy Cadrin


---------- Original Messagea ----------
From: "Davis Johnson" <davis@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Spindle register issue
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2018 20:28:43 -0400

HTRL agrees with you (heresy around here, tho).

I'd be interested in an experiment.

Chuck up a short piece of scrap, turn the outside for a bit.

The part you just turned will be exactly concentric. Check it with an
indicator.

Unmount/remount the chuck several times without removing the piece of
scrap. Each time check it with an indicator.

I really would be interested in the results, and would do the experiment
myself except that I don't have a chuck with a loose register.

On 06/21/2018 08:15 PM, m. allan noah wrote:
I'll buck the conventional wisdom, and state that the register
diameter does not matter at all. The conical face of the thread, and
the flat shoulder behind the register are sufficiently to achieve
kinematic positioning of the chuck.

I daresay the problem is your testing method. Reground jaws is
basically meaningless, unless they were ground on the lathe in
question, properly preloaded, with the diameter set to exactly the
size of the stock you are now holding. Take of the chuck, and put it
back on, and see if it is consistent. That is a true test.

allan

On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 8:00 PM, carbure2003 <guycad@...> wrote:
About. a year ago, I bought a 10K spindle on ebay.

As I have not used much the lathe where I fitted the spindle, ( only with collets) I never noticed that the register was under sized. (1.495 in dia), quite likely machined by a previous owner.

I trialed a chuck with freshly re ground jaws on it and it was defenitely off centered by many thou.

Register defenitely has importance when yo want to swap chucks from lathe to lathe and keep chuck accuracy.
Did somebody ever attempt to rebuild a spindle register ? (Register is 1.510 in dia on my other SB)

If yes, how did you proceed? (Welding is not an option)

Thanks

Guy Cadrin
____________________________________________________________
70s Millionaire Returns with Surprising Prediction
unrestrictedinvesting.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5b2c3c71941fa3c711a12st03vuc

Re: apron cross feed clutch

David C. Hutchins
 

I think I have it, the legs go in between the clutch wafers with the round part over the shaft facing the cover.

Thanks

On 6/21/2018 9:24 PM, carbure2003 wrote:
As far as I recall,extremities of the spring are going down in the clutch.

The other option is not easy to put in place.

GUy CAdrin
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "David C. Hutchins" <dchutchins@veri@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] apron cross feed clutch
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2018 17:20:52 -0700

I am in the process of rebuilding a 10K. I am at the point of reassembling the apron & there is a spring clip in the cross feed clutch (shaft that has the star wheel) & I am not sure of it's orientation. Do the feet of the spring face inward toward the clutch shoes or do they face out & press on the rear cover?

____________________________________________________________
We Say Goodbye To Lara Spencer
risingstarnewspaper.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5b2c50114fc6050114d20st01vuc


Re: Spindle register issue

Jim_B
 

I have many times removed a chuck with a face plate in it, while threading the face plate, to test the fit on the spindle threads.
When the chuck and face plate were screwed back on registration was perfect.

I am not sure if all my chucks were tight fits on the “registration step” or they used the threads and the spindle stop.

The 9” Workshop and the 10k have a very small stop behind the register.
If the faceplate has any radius on the threaded bore you may or may not properly register on the stop.
The Heavy 10 and larger lathes have a good stop.


Sent from my iPhone-8
Jim B,

On Jun 21, 2018, at 8:28 PM, Davis Johnson <davis@...> wrote:

HTRL agrees with you (heresy around here, tho).

I'd be interested in an experiment.

Chuck up a short piece of scrap, turn the outside for a bit.

The part you just turned will be exactly concentric. Check it with an indicator.

Unmount/remount the chuck several times without removing the piece of scrap. Each time check it with an indicator.

I really would be interested in the results, and would do the experiment myself except that I don't have a chuck with a loose register.


--
Jim B