The Turn-Nado serial numbers can be misleading sometimes, I haven’t completed my research on them yet. Still collecting data and numbers. the lathe listed in the video by Sterling (great company) is

It is a 27” (17” with risers) built for the military in South Bend, Indiana. Most of them were built for off-road mobile machine shops. Ted

I missed the old data plate so that is probably low time if not unused. I wonder how sitting unused for decades affected it mechanically? James

Nevermind I was wrong. If you can read the model number - maybe send that to Steve Wells

18" -27" 27" is the gap diameter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7Yd0rgseh4

The plaques riveted to it mention "South Bend Lathe Company South Bend, Indiana" and "An Employee Owned Company". The patina and design - to me it just looks like a lathe that would have

It's been listed for months now. Same price which is about the retail price quoted by South Bend/Grizzly. It's only 15 minutes from me, I should call them and check it out. James

Pretty sure that's the "new" South Bend, made in Taiwan or wherever Grizzly's version is made. Bit big for both my shop and wallet, but their new Heavy 10 lists for $10k. Bill in OKC William R.

Claims it is NOS.  Not involved - just passing this along.... https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/tls/d/sadler-new-southbend-27-engine-lathe/7052505638.html

Thank you John, I think I see my path forward now. Best regards and thanks, Niels

Niels, I couldn't find a photo of my wrench and it's up at the cabin, so I grabbed this one off the 'net. Mine is hardwood and can grab pretty good. Aluminum is good also; I made some aluminum clamp

John, You are correct. I have not acted on this. I like to evaluate things first and take sound advice to avoid damage. I am going to take your advice regarding making a barrel wrench for the tail of

N Jen, No, don't tighten up your expanders! You can damage the bearings by over-tightening these. Make up a barrel wrench like shown here (mine is a 2" x 2" hardwood handle 3 feet long with another 4"

I have a 1946 Heavy 10 aka 10L. It has bronze split bushings that encompass the spindle bearing surface. The split is oriented at the top and has an “expander” that pushes the bushing apart

Dear Niel et al, I just took a couple of shims out, 0.002" or 0.003" each side (the spindle clearance is normally very precisely set with the bolts hard tight), put the cap back on, tightened hard

To Eddie Draper, I like your idea of removing a few shims at the front bearing of the spindle to immobilize the spindle. Just for clarification, did you expand the bearing after reinstalling the

What you say is fine, Ondrej, but it nonetheless puts a big shock into the (cast iron) gear teeth. If they were steel and the same size, it might be a different matter (loosen and tighten the first

South Bend Lathe Co. recommended that a piece of wood be used against a chuck jaw or a bolt firmed fastened to a face plate and the lathe spindle turned manually in reverse while in back gear

Hi There, I think there is a slight problem with semantics here. When talking about the headstock, spindle and the bearings, one refers to the "front" or "rear" of the headstock, spindle and/or

Yes I what you do