Mike, My spindle nose taper mikes out to .052/inch which matches the Morse taper specs. It just happens to fall about halfway between a Morse #3 and #4. That's why I'm interested in knowing the

The Jaws on the steady rests I have used, and the MLA one I am machining now (9" 10K) are cast iron. I read somewhere that's because the CI retains the lubricant. Jim B. Verona, NJ "Etiquette

There are groups specific to almost every brand of milling machine. There is also http://groups.yahoo.com/group/millingmachines/ However this group is by far the most active. What kind of mill do

Hi Paul, You can find a leveling guide for a 9" in the files section or this

I have been mostly lurking here for some time. I find this a useful discussion group. Are there any similar forums for milling enthusiasts? I own an old horizontal mill, so that type of mill is

I am considering building a steady rest for my 10" SB (I think it must be what you guys are calling a "Heavy 10") lathe. I have not decided yet whether to use the regular slotted jaw style, or the

Just to Let the Group Know that I have a Cast iron Underbase Base and chip Pan and End Leg for sale or Trade. Any Interest please email me of the List. The Base is in Florida Zip Code 34452. Steve

Harley, I just went through the same scenario with my 9A restoration. The ring on the opposite side of the boss that holds the work gear is threaded. There is a pin holding the ring that you need

Hi Fergus, Mic out the taper. It may be a Brown & Sharpe. I think there is a #9 about the size you are mentioning. Check your Machinst Bible for the dimensions and taper. I have a Bridgeport with

Hi Your worm gear is held on by the threaded ring on the right side if you looking at the back of the apron with it sitting upright. When you remove the key that rides in the lead screw sometimes

Help I just bought a 9" model A South Bend lathe and I am having trouble with the worm gear in the carriage apron. The worm gear will sometimes spin freely and then bind up. It is not binding on the

I believe that the model 63 lathe was made between 1922 and 1925. It is not listed by number in HTRAL 1922, but the model 69, which is the 16" lathe from the same series is. By 1926 (Catalog No. 87)

When was it? Earlier in the week or last week? I'm referring to the virus that was believed to be posted on the group. I scanned that day and found nothing but today Norton found the file in the

I'd be interested in knowing what the spindle taper is on your lathe and the spindle thread size and pitch. I also have an 11 in. SB. Mine is of 1926 vintage and catalog number 84-B. For some

Hi Matt I have an extra set of ecentric bushings shaft and handle if needed. Turk wrote: working make help will source really posting

Get a bigger hammer!!!!!!!!!! First make sure that you do have the small end. Then you need a punch, no bigger than the small end. If the small end protrudes put an indent in the punch to keep it on

Hi, I have been trying to resurrect a 1940 SB 9" Workshop C and am working on taking the headstock apart. Everything has gone fine with the exception of removing the two taper pins which keep the

Hi again I just checked my 1923 catalog and that is the first year of a quick cange box and the your catalog number 63 A is listed there. Turk <aggietown93638@...> wrote: front

Hi Interesting you say a quick change gear box as SB delivered the first lathes with threading gear boxes in 1923 according to my catalog file. Could this date be in reference to when SB started

Guys, I had originally bought some VLIER brand threaded stud machinery levelers, which bolt the the machine, and swivel 10 degrees for uneven floors. They can be screwed in and out of my threaded